07.29.2014
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Charisma Creme Cleanser
Rating
4.2 fl. oz. for $45
Last Updated:07.29.2014
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

Can a cleanser have charisma? Sunday Riley seems to think so, but we're urging you not to get charmed by this oil- and wax-based cleanser, if for no other reason than it's really overpriced for what you get!

Although the oils and wax ingredients are good for removing makeup from dry skin, this milky cleanser (the dairy sugar lactose is the second ingredient) can be difficult to rinse, and the amount of lavender distillate (a concentrated source of lavender extract that adds fragrance) may be irritating despite its relaxing aroma.

The "multi-fruit acids" referred to in the claims have no cleansing ability, nor can they make the skin feel "supple" as claimed; rather, the non-fragrant plant oils in this cleanser do that just fine. The fruit extracts, which are made to sound like they are a form of AHA, don't function the same way as AHAs at all; they're more window dressing than they are beneficial. We suspect Sunday Riley added them to make this cleanser seem more multi-functional than it really is.

In the end, this does the job, but not without some pitfalls along the way. A rich cleanser like this can be just what very dry skin needs, but no skin type needs the fragrant ingredients this cleanser contains, each of which poses a risk of irritation, especially when used around the eyes. (Lemon extract near the eyes? No thanks!)

Pros:
  • Won't leave dry skin feeling stripped.
  • Removes all types of makeup.
  • Contains some good non-fragrant plant oils.
Cons:
  • Expensive for what you get.
  • Mixed fruit extracts do not work like AHAs and cannot leave the skin supple or assist with cleansing.
  • Contains fragrant ingredients such as lavender that pose a risk of irritation.
Claims

Charisma Creme Cleanser is a skin softening blend of Milk, Acai and Aloe that works with multi-fruit acids to leave skin supple and refreshingly clean. Chamomile, Lavender, and Green Tea soothe and restore to reduce inflammation. This antioxidant-based, non-foaming, milk cleanser softens, increases collagen and restores elasticity.

Ingredients

Aloe Barbadensis, Lactose, Lavendula Angustifolia (Lavender) Distillate, Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) Distillate, Lipid Blend [Cocos Nucifera Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grapeseed) Oil, & Euterpe Oleacea Pulp (Acai) Oil], Glycerin, Emulsifying Wax NF, Palm Stearic Acid, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Organic Bilberry) Extract, Organic Multi-Fruit Acid Blend [Saccharum Officinarum Extract Acer Saccharinum Extract, Citrus Auranium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum Extract & Vaccinium Macrocarpon Extract], Camellia Sinensis (Organic Green Tea) Extract, Xanthan Gum, Mannan, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid.

Brand Overview

Sunday Riley is a brand that has captured the attention of many with its seductive mix of high-priced, luxury-positioned skin-care products and its ties to today’s top fashion designers. This coupling, plus the brand’s cult-like status among beauty editors, has led many of our readers to ask us whether Sunday Riley products are deserving of the hype and worth the cost. The answer: yes and no, but regardless of the product, good skincare doesn’t have to be expensive.

Often noted in Sunday Riley’s products is the NV-5 Ageless Complex. Despite the number “5” in this trade name, the complex contains a mix of seven plant ingredients: prickly pear extract, blue agave, lady’s slipper orchid extract, opuntia tuna fruit, cactus extract, aloe, and a type of yeast extract (Saccharomyces cerevisiae).

We explored the research on each of the ingredients in the NV-5 Ageless Complex. While all of them have some benefit for skin, they’re not ingredients that have comparative benefit to long established ingredients such as retinol, vitamin C and niacinamide, for example. They’re also not expensive to include in formulas, and there’s no compelling reason to seek out products that contain them; they’re just some of the dozens of beneficial plant extracts.

Breaking them down, we found that the research shows prickly pear extract (also listed on the labels as Opuntia fruit and cactus extract) is the most beneficial ingredient in the NV-5 Ageless Complex because it has antioxidant properties and can also stimulate collagen production on sun-damaged skin, thanks to its ferulic acid content.

The lady’s slipper orchid and blue agave extracts have zero research pertaining to any benefit for the skin, but, like all plant extracts (even the fragrant ones), each likely functions as an antioxidant. The cactus extract has documented antioxidant ability when consumed orally, but there’s no research regarding topical application.

Aloe is a decent water-binding agent and a minor source of numerous beneficial compounds for the skin, but it’s certainly not unique to Sunday Riley. Finally, the form of yeast (Latin name Saccharomyces cerevisiae) isn’t all that exciting for skin as there is little in the way of research showing otherwise.

Obtaining accurate ingredient lists for Sunday Riley products proved more challenging than for most products. Not only were we dealing with ingredient lists on their packaging statements that did not fully comply with FDA regulations for ingredient disclosure (for example, “NV5 Ageless Complex” is a trade mix, not an individual ingredient), but also many of the sites that sell this brand do not include accurate ingredient lists. Very frustrating for us, as well as for consumers, who are entitled to the truth about what a product contains, no matter where they shop.

Another wall we ran into: Just when we thought we had stumbled upon accurate lists on a reputable website that retails the brand, we found another trusted online retailer that had completely different lists! Adding all those issues up, and as you might expect, we were thoroughly confused. Emails to the company were ignored when we inquired about the ingredients, but, not surprisingly, we got near-instant replies when we asked about product prices. Despite all this, we’re reasonably confident that the ingredient lists we have assembled (and on which we base our reviews) are as accurate as they can be based on what Sunday Riley has divulged and what is printed on the products themselves.

The bottom line: This brand has some intriguing products and many of them contain beneficial ingredients that are packaged to maintain their effectiveness, but there are a few missteps in terms of highly fragrant formulas (noted in their respective reviews). Even the highly rated products are on the pricey side for what you get, but at least if you choose to indulge you’ll know which products are worth buying.

Strengths: All of the moisturizers are packaged to protect the effectiveness of their air-sensitive ingredients; the serums and moisturizers are rich sources of plant-based antioxidants; the sunscreen provides broad-spectrum protection; good body-care products.

Weaknesses: Many highly fragrant products, and fragrance is a strong source of irritation for the skin; very expensive; disappointing cleansers; questionable claims.

For more information about Sunday Riley, visit www.sundayriley.com. The company currently does not provide a Customer Service phone number.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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