Resurfacing Mask

Price:
$55 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Masks
Last Updated:
5/17/2013
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
No

This is an unexciting mask formulated for oily to combination skin. Like Tata Harper’s other products, it contains a mix of good and bad plant oils and extracts. The formula offers a few good anti-irritants as well as some antioxidants, but along with those beneficial ingredients are high amounts of irritants such as witch hazel, fermented radish root extract, and, let’s not forget, the noticeable fragrance.

While the Resurfacing Mask isn’t as irritant-laden as some of Harper’s other formulas, irritation from ingredients like fragrance and witch hazel stands a good chance of making oily skin or breakouts worse. See More Info for details on why irritants cause trouble for oily, blemish-prone skin.

If you are serious about minimizing oily skin and/or breakouts, stick to reliable formulas that will treat your skin with respect, which means avoiding products with irritating ingredients and fragrances.

Like all of Harper's products, they state that their products contain "Fragrances from 100% natural clinical grade essential oils,” but there isn't any such classification or standard for essential oils. These ingredients are little more than fragrance, and fragrance isn’t skin care. Perfume can be wonderful when selectively placed behind the ears or on pulse points, but applied all over the face it is 100% irritating for all skin types just about 100% of the time.

While the Resurfacing Mask, as claimed, does contain kaolin clay, which can absorb oil, the amount is quite low. Another downer: The jar packaging, which won’t keep the few antioxidants and anti-irritants this contains stable. Plus, there’s the hygiene issue of repeatedly dipping your fingers into this water-based product. No matter how clean your hands are, bacteria thrive in such an environment (especially when the preservative abilities of its essential oil mix are uncertain), and will further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients. See our list of Best Facial Masks for better (and less pricey) options.

One more comment: Harper mentions in the claims that this mask isn’t recommended for sensitive skin or for those with the skin disorder rosacea. That’s excellent advice, but, in truth, none of Tata Harper’s products are appropriate for someone with sensitive skin or with rosacea because of the irritating ingredients they contain.

Pros:
  • Contains some beneficial ingredients for dry (not oily) skin.
Cons:
  • Contains a high amount of irritating ingredients that can make oily skin worse.
  • Jar packaging won’t keep the few beneficial ingredients it contains stable.
  • Heavily fragrant.
  • Expensive.
More Info:

Irritation from Fragrance: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Claims: This easy-to-use and effective mask enhances the skin’s radiance and improves its appearance by eliminating dull and blemished skin cells, reducing the appearance of pores and softening and refreshing the skin. Perfect for dry/normal/oily/combination skin. Not recommended for very sensitive skin or skin affected by rosacea.

Water/Eau, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Sclerotium Gum (Derived From Root Vegetables & Corn), Lactobacillus Ferment, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate (Radish Root Extract/ Racine De Radis Extrait), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Distillate, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Fruit Ferment Extract, Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides, Maltooligosyl Glucoside (Derived From Carbohydrate Syrup), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder*, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (Derived From Corn Starch), Fusel Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides, Kaolinite (Rose Clay), Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate (Naturally Derived), Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (Derived From Coconut), Glyceryl Caprylate (Derived From Fatty Acids Of Corn, Coconut And Glycerin), Sodium Phytate (Derived From Rice Bran), Essential Oil Blend Clinical Grade Essential Oils, Citral, Citronellol, Limonene.

Based in Vermont, the Tata Harper brand knows its niche—those who equate expensive with effective, and those who buy into the fear tactics that “chemicals” are bad and only all-natural ingredients are good. These beliefs are common misconceptions we have dealt with repeatedly over the years, and here’s the quick summation: There are good and bad natural ingredients, just as there are good and bad synthetic ingredients—and with skin care, expensive does not necessarily mean better.

Tata Harper is a real person, who created her namesake line based on the concept that natural ingredients are 100% safe and that beauty products should be free of chemicals. The “chemical- free” rhetoric certainly isn’t a new approach to marketing skin care, but the claim is nonsense, regardless of the company, because everything, from daisies to asphalt to water, is composed of chemicals… but we march on.

Harper’s marketing appeal is the claim that she and her team grow most of their ingredients on their 12,000-acre Vermont farm. If the farm doesn’t supply the ingredients they need, they have them shipped in, from all over the world. Their Vermont farm-laboratory is where the products are made, in small batches by hand. That sounds interesting until you realize that “batches by hand” is actually true of any cosmetic, made by any brand, as hands are always needed, and batch size is irrelevant. As Tata has grown, the size of the batches has grown as well. They formulate their products using botanicals that are “free of toxins” and “biochemically compatible with our skin.” If those claims sound vaguely fertilizer-worthy, you are on the right track.

It is important to understand how misleading the “free of toxins” claim is. A toxin refers to a poison, like real poisons (think snake venom, which, incidentally, is 100% natural); cosmetic ingredients are not toxins. Biocompatibility just means that a substance doesn’t harm living tissue; that is, it’s compatible with it, rather than incompatible. Biocompatibility has nothing to do with whether or not a substance is natural in origin. For example, pacemakers are biocompatible in that they keep your heart beating without harming your body, but they certainly are not natural; on the other hand, snake venom and cyanide are both completely natural, but they certainly are not biocompatible.

Of course, many natural ingredients do benefit skin, but many natural ingredients also are a problem for skin, including such seemingly innocuous ingredients as lavender and peppermint. Synthetic ingredients, like retinol or peptides, can be wonderfully beneficial for skin, so, ideally, the best products will contain a mix of proven beneficial natural and synthetic ingredients. When evaluating any ingredient, we always consider what the published, peer-reviewed research has shown to be beneficial or detrimental for your skin, whether it’s natural or not.

Despite the science-y-sounding claims and phrases Tata Harper uses in their marketing materials, most of it is a smoke screen. (They stop just short of promising cosmetic surgery–like results from flowers and essential oils.) What this translates into is a collection of products that are so fragranced they can be mistaken for perfume. Each contains a mix of standard plant-based moisturizing agents (think olive oil, shea and mango butters, and other plant-based fatty acids) along with plant oils or extracts that are proven skin irritants, which is bad news for you!

Tata Harper repeatedly describes their ingredients as “actives,” as in “Active Natural Ingredients,” which is a misuse of the term. “Actives” refers only to ingredients regulated as drugs by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), such as sunscreen actives, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid acne treatments, hydroquinone skin lighteners, and others. Outside of this standard, the phrase “active ingredients” is completely meaningless, because all cosmetic ingredients (even water) will exert some sort of action on the skin.

Like all of Harper’s products, they state that their products contain “Fragrances from 100% natural clinical grade essential oils,” but there isn't any such classification or standard for essential oils. These ingredients are little more than fragrance, and fragrance isn’t skin care. Perfume can be wonderful when selectively placed behind the ears and on the pulse points, but applied all over the face it’s 100% irritating for all skin types just about 100% of the time.

The bottom line? The Tata Harper line is an overall disappointment, especially if you have common concerns such as acne, rosacea, dark spots, enlarged pores, or sun damage. And their prices are bizarre—$45 for a 0.5 ounce bottle of rosewater, olive oil, and jojoba oil is not worth the cost, not by any stretch. We are not against natural ingredients, but if you’re looking to use natural products, this line isn’t the way to go.

For more information about Tata Harper, call (877) 321-8282 or visit www.tataharperskincare.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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