04.27.2012
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1
Liftactiv CxP Night Biolifting Daily Care Anti-Wrinkle and Firming (Discontinued)
Rating
1.7 fl. oz. for $46.50
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:04.27.2012
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

This moisturizer is nearly identical to Vichy’s Liftactiv CxP SPF 20 product, minus the sunscreen actives and with the inclusion of emollient petrolatum (Vaseline). As such, the same basic comments apply: The formula is a blend of ingredients you’ll find in most moisturizers from L’Oreal-owned companies, of which Vichy is one. It’s an OK formula for normal to dry skin, but not a single ingredient is capable of lifting skin. Vichy claims vitamin C can do this, but it can’t; besides, there is only a tiny amount of vitamin C in this product. Vitamin C is a good antioxidant, which is great, but the claims are overblown.

Even in large amounts, topical vitamin C cannot lift skin, although it can stimulate healthy collagen production and help repair sun-damaged skin for increased firmness, but that isn’t “lifting.” Excess hanging skin cannot be lifted by any skin-care product.

The claim that this moisturizer is as effective as a 10% glycolic acid product is not supported by any research. It’s not that the ingredients in this product are not effective for hydrating your skin, but equating the results of an ordinary moisturizer to what an AHA product can do is a stretch of marketing imagination.

One more important point, especially for the vitamin C: The fact that this moisturizer is packaged in a jar means that the beneficial ingredients won’t remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.

Claims

Skin is visibly re-tightened, wrinkles are smoothed from within. Breakthrough Technology continuously releases pure Vitamin C’ into the skin for 24 hours. Contains Keratolytic ingredient to boost cellular multiplication during the night. As effective as 10% glycolic acid but better tolerated by the skin.

Ingredients

Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil (Apricot Kernel Oil), Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Zea Mays Starch (Corn Starch), Petrolatum, Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, PEG-40 Stearate, Cera Alba (Beeswax) (Beeswax), Ascorbyl Glucoside, Hydroxyethyl Piperazine Ethanesulfonic Acid, Sorbitan Tristearate, Dimethiconol, Triethanolamine, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Adenosine, Poloxamer 338, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Xanthan Gum, Fragrance

Brand Overview

Vichy At-A-Glance

Strengths: Some fragrance-free products; all the sunscreens but one contain either avobenzone or titanium dioxide for sufficient UVA protection; some commendable moisturizers with sunscreen; some good, inexpensive cleansers, and scrub for dry skin.

Weaknesses: Repetitive moisturizer formulas that rarely rise above the median for excellence; jar packaging is pervasive; the at-home peel/scrub kit is mostly disappointing; a couple of irritating moisturizers; no products for those with skin discolorations; limited options for oily skin.

Health is vital. That's the opening line on Vichy's catalog, followed by "Start with your skin." Perusing the opening pages of this catalog, it's easy to see how someone could get wrapped up in this L'Oreal-owned company's belief in listening to the signals skin sends us and then choosing products to address whatever problem skin is signaling you to correct. That might include acne, blackheads, eczema, discolorations, broken capillaries, and even excess oiliness. No surprises there, and it is sound advice to adapt your skin-care routine as your skin's needs (and signals) change. The problem is that Vichy's products, though well intentioned, are incapable of addressing several common problems, including most of those listed above. About all you can expect from most Vichy moisturizers is relief from dryness. That's it. Every product's claims "talk the talk," but they cannot possibly walk the walk because what's in them is, for the most part, standard, and without any research behind it to show that it makes a difference.

A big-deal ingredient for Vichy is their Thermal Spa Water. It is said to reduce irritation, strengthen skin's natural defenses, and provide free radical–quelling activity thanks to its trace minerals and salt. There is no substantiated proof to support these claims, save for a somewhat primitive chart Vichy provides to show this water helps reduce cutaneous signs of irritation (what it was compared to, if anything, is unknown). Two other L'Oreal-owned brands, Biotherm and La Roche-Posay, have similar special waters, each claiming to be mineral-rich. Yet if these are so unique and wonderfully beneficial for everyone's skin, why don't all L'Oreal-owned lines such as Lancome, L'Oreal, Kiehl’s, SkinCeuticals, and The Body Shop, use them, too?

As expected, there are some bona fide winners among Vichy's products, but using Vichy exclusively with the expectation that their products have the answer to whatever your skin needs to have fixed is like thinking green tea is the only food your body needs.

Note: Vichy is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Vichy does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law.” Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

For more information about Vichy, owned by L'Oreal, call (877) 378-4249 or visit www.vichy.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula Begoun herself.

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