La Nuit De Chanel

by Chanel  
Price:
$85 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
3/31/2014
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This moisturizer contains some good, lightweight hydrating ingredients for normal to combination skin, but is knock-your-socks-off fragrant, and the fragrance lingers on skin, almost as if you'd doused it with perfume (is this product really Chanel No 5 in disguise?). Sadly, fragrance isn't skin care and high amounts of it like this can cause serious problems for skin—even if you cannot see or feel the irritation it generates taking place. See More Info to learn why daily use of highly fragrant products isn't the least bit skin-caring.

One of the plant extracts in this moisturizer is a resin from the plant Boswellia serrata. More commonly known as frankincense, this ingredient has research showing its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits; however, other research about its effect on skin (such as fibroblasts, the cells that make collagen) has shown this plant resin kills healthy cells (Sources: Toxicology Mechanisms and Methods, November 2010, pages 556–563; Dermatologic Therapy, January-February 2010, pages S28-S32; Toxicology Letters, March 2008 , pages 144–149; and www.naturaldatabase.com). So, this is yet another intriguing plant extract that's a mixed bag of benefits and risks—though in this case the research is more in favor of the benefits. Still, we feel strongly that it's better to only rely on plant extracts with minimal to no risk—and there are hundreds of those available!

One more comment on the fragrance in this moisturizer: Unlike countless other fragrant products, this one contains the fragrance ingredient methyl eugenol, which is a very common contact allergen (Sources: Contact Dermatitis, April 2009, pages 185–192; and November-December 2004, pages 288–291). See our list of Best Moisturizers for a list of less expensive yet superior formulas.

Pros:
  • Lightweight, silky texture hydrates without feeling greasy.
  • Contains some good non-fragrant plant oils.
Cons:
  • Overpriced; you can find superior moisturizers for under $50.
  • Highly fragrant formula (and the fragrance really lingers) poses a serious risk of daily irritation.
More Info:

Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Soothes and moisturizes skin to encourage nightly recovery. Frankincense Extract calms skin to prepare for the process of overnight repair, while Hyaluronic Acid helps restore skin’s plumpness and hydration. Your complexion appears supple upon awakening, with no signs of dullness.

Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Phenyl Trimethicone, Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldmethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Canola Oil, Camellia Kissi Seed Oil, Sucrose Palmitate, Dimethicone/BIS-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Parfum (Fragrance), Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-DI-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phytic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Arginine, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Methyl Eugenol

The history of this Paris-bred line is steeped in fashion, jewelry, and fragrance firsts. The image-is-everything fashion sensibility and fragrance know-how have been loosely translated to Chanel’s ever-imposing skin-care collection, now divided into several categories, although most of them have overlapping, overly exaggerated claims and over-the-top pricing. The company likes to mention its research facility, referred to as C.E.R.I.E.S. (Centre de Recherches et d'Investigations Epidermiques et Sensorielles) as a way to give credibility to its products and the formulary expertise of Chanel's team of scientists, but its studies are not necessarily the kind of independent research that shows up in medical journals.

Founded in 1991 and funded by Chanel, the goal of this research facility is "to help provide a scientific foundation for the design of skin care products and to promote public awareness of the principles underlying maintenance of healthy, attractive skin." Examining Chanel's often lengthy ingredient lists reveals that they believe healthy, attractive skin requires mostly standard, banal ingredients coupled with lots of fragrance and just a smattering of anything resembling state-of-the-art ingredients. Designing skin-care products whose purpose is to reinforce healthy skin doesn't involve strong scents, irritants such as alcohol, or sunscreens whose SPF ratings fall below the standards set by major health organizations, including the American Academy of Dermatology and corresponding international academies as well. Furthermore, their Nº 1 products claim to increase skin's oxygen uptake, something that essentially puts skin on the fast track for more free-radical damage, and no one at C.E.R.I.E.S. seems to have any idea about how to treat acne-prone skin. (Well, let's face it, acne is never fashionable.)

Just like most Chanel skin-care products, the research facility and its ties to the dermatology community make it sound more impressive than it really is. Chanel's influence on fashion and luxury accoutrements is legendary and ongoing; but their skin-care products simply cannot compete with what many other lines are doing, including Estee Lauder, Clinique, Prescriptives, Olay, Dove, Neutrogena, and many others. Considering the couture-level prices, too much of Chanel's skin care is average, and that doesn't look good on anyone.

For more information about Chanel, call (800) 550-0005 or visit www.chanel.com.

Chanel Makeup

Chanel pulls out all the stops to present their makeup in the most flattering light. Many of their products are deserving of the best status, but, frustratingly, an equal number disappoint, seeming to coast on Chanel's name and attention to upscale, designer-influenced packaging rather than providing true quality. For example, few companies have foundations with textures as varied and state-of-the-art as Chanel. However, most of their foundations with sunscreen are formulated without essential UVA-protecting ingredients, even though Chanel clearly knows about this issue, as evidenced from their numerous skin-care products that do contain avobenzone or titanium dioxide. Neglecting adequate UVA protection while going on about how the product creates younger-looking skin is not only inaccurate, it's harmful to your skin's health and appearance.

Beyond inadequate sunscreen, Chanel's eye and lip pencils have extraordinary prices, but ordinary to poor performance, and most of their "we're trying to be unique and clever" products don't do much to prove they're worthy of purchase. It's hard to ignore that much of what Chanel does well other lines do just as well (and sometimes better), and with a more realistic price range to boot. However, the overall situation is better than standard but well-dressed formulas with shamelessly affluent prices, because although it's not inexpensive, the best of Chanel's makeup is truly outstanding. What's needed to establish consistency is an overhaul of the many products that have fallen behind formula-wise. We doubt Chanel will reevaluate their pricing for the better, but given that, the least you should expect is stellar performance from everything you buy that bears the iconic double C logo!

Note: Chanel is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Chanel does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law.” Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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