Le Jour De Chanel

by Chanel  
Price:
$85 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Anti-Acne Products > BHA
Last Updated:
3/31/2014
Jar Packaging:
No
pH:
4.40
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This fragrant, serum-like BHA exfoliant with a matte finish contains less than 1% BHA (salicylic acid) and its pH of 4.4 means it has reduced ability to exfoliate.

The low amount and higher-than-needed pH of this product aren't the only problem, though. With alcohol being the second ingredient listed, Le Jour De Chanel is highly likely to irritate all skin types (you'll get a strong hit of alcohol's medicinal scent as soon as you apply this). See More Info to learn how alcohol damages skin and is actually pro-aging!

For what this costs, the formula is truly disappointing (though it would be a seriously flawed formula in any price range). Chanel claims this product energizes skin so it can "adapt" to its environment all day long. That sounds good but this isn't the Swiss Army knife of skin care, and it has no special ability to minimize pores (though the alcohol's de-greasing effect helps mop up excess oil—at least until the kickback from irritation occurs and the free radical damage alcohol causes begins, leaving skin producing more oil). If anything, the alcohol and fragrant ingredients in this product put skin in a precarious position of having to defend itself from those ingredients and the environment. That's not progress, it's a setback!

Pros:
  • Leaves skin feeling silky-smooth and looking matte.
Cons:
  • Amount of alcohol poses a strong risk of irritation and free radical damage.
  • The fragrance ingredients pose an additional risk of irritation.
  • Drastically overpriced for a product that cannot work as claimed.
  • The amount of BHA and the pH makes this unlikely to exfoliate skin.
  • Contains more fragrance than beneficial ingredients.
More Info:

Alcohol in Skin Care: Alcohol in skin-care products causes dryness and free-radical damage, and impairs the skin's ability to heal. The irritation it causes damages healthy collagen production and can stimulate oil production at the base of the pore, making oily skin worse (Sources: Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, May 2012, pages 1,410–1,419; Alcoholism, Clinical and Experimental Research, January 2011, pages 83–90; "Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In," Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16; and http://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publications/arh27-4/277-284.htm).

Daily Use of Highly Fragrant Products: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Energizes skin so it can adapt to its environment throughout the day. Grasse Jasmine Extract invigorates the skin, while Salicylic Acid gently and gradually exfoliates to visibly minimize pores. Your complexion appears smooth and radiant, and ready to face the day.

Aqua (Water), Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glycerin, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Methyl Gluceth-20, Jasminum Grandiflorum (Jasmine) Flower Extract, Jasminum Grandiflorum (Jasmine) Stem Extract, Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, C12-14 Pareth-12, Lysolecithin, Sodium Citrate, Salicylic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-51, Propylene Glycol, Propanediol, Coco-Caprylate, Parfum (Fragrance), Neoruscogenin, Chlorphenesin, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ruscogenin, Dipropylene Glycol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Glycyrriza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Tocopherol.

The history of this Paris-bred line is steeped in fashion, jewelry, and fragrance firsts. The image-is-everything fashion sensibility and fragrance know-how have been loosely translated to Chanel’s ever-imposing skin-care collection, now divided into several categories, although most of them have overlapping, overly exaggerated claims and over-the-top pricing. The company likes to mention its research facility, referred to as C.E.R.I.E.S. (Centre de Recherches et d'Investigations Epidermiques et Sensorielles) as a way to give credibility to its products and the formulary expertise of Chanel's team of scientists, but its studies are not necessarily the kind of independent research that shows up in medical journals.

Founded in 1991 and funded by Chanel, the goal of this research facility is "to help provide a scientific foundation for the design of skin care products and to promote public awareness of the principles underlying maintenance of healthy, attractive skin." Examining Chanel's often lengthy ingredient lists reveals that they believe healthy, attractive skin requires mostly standard, banal ingredients coupled with lots of fragrance and just a smattering of anything resembling state-of-the-art ingredients. Designing skin-care products whose purpose is to reinforce healthy skin doesn't involve strong scents, irritants such as alcohol, or sunscreens whose SPF ratings fall below the standards set by major health organizations, including the American Academy of Dermatology and corresponding international academies as well. Furthermore, their Nº 1 products claim to increase skin's oxygen uptake, something that essentially puts skin on the fast track for more free-radical damage, and no one at C.E.R.I.E.S. seems to have any idea about how to treat acne-prone skin. (Well, let's face it, acne is never fashionable.)

Just like most Chanel skin-care products, the research facility and its ties to the dermatology community make it sound more impressive than it really is. Chanel's influence on fashion and luxury accoutrements is legendary and ongoing; but their skin-care products simply cannot compete with what many other lines are doing, including Estee Lauder, Clinique, Prescriptives, Olay, Dove, Neutrogena, and many others. Considering the couture-level prices, too much of Chanel's skin care is average, and that doesn't look good on anyone.

For more information about Chanel, call (800) 550-0005 or visit www.chanel.com.

Chanel Makeup

Chanel pulls out all the stops to present their makeup in the most flattering light. Many of their products are deserving of the best status, but, frustratingly, an equal number disappoint, seeming to coast on Chanel's name and attention to upscale, designer-influenced packaging rather than providing true quality. For example, few companies have foundations with textures as varied and state-of-the-art as Chanel. However, most of their foundations with sunscreen are formulated without essential UVA-protecting ingredients, even though Chanel clearly knows about this issue, as evidenced from their numerous skin-care products that do contain avobenzone or titanium dioxide. Neglecting adequate UVA protection while going on about how the product creates younger-looking skin is not only inaccurate, it's harmful to your skin's health and appearance.

Beyond inadequate sunscreen, Chanel's eye and lip pencils have extraordinary prices, but ordinary to poor performance, and most of their "we're trying to be unique and clever" products don't do much to prove they're worthy of purchase. It's hard to ignore that much of what Chanel does well other lines do just as well (and sometimes better), and with a more realistic price range to boot. However, the overall situation is better than standard but well-dressed formulas with shamelessly affluent prices, because although it's not inexpensive, the best of Chanel's makeup is truly outstanding. What's needed to establish consistency is an overhaul of the many products that have fallen behind formula-wise. We doubt Chanel will reevaluate their pricing for the better, but given that, the least you should expect is stellar performance from everything you buy that bears the iconic double C logo!

Note: Chanel is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Chanel does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law.” Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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