03.17.2015
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Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer
Rating
2 fl. oz. for $58
Category:Skin Care > Sensitive Skin Products > Face/Eye Moisturizer
Last Updated:03.17.2015
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

Sadly, this isn't a great moisturizer for those with breakout-prone skin or enlarged pores. Cucumber juice (which is 96% water) has no ability to tone or make large pores smaller, though it's not a problematic ingredient, just not capable of doing what Eminence claims. The problematic ingredient, at least for those with breakout-prone skin, is the amount of corn oil this contains. Corn oil isn't a bad ingredient, but chances are good if you're struggling with breakouts and large pores, your also dealing with oily skin—and this moisturizer can feel greasy.

Another disappointing aspect is that all of the helpful natural ingredients this moisturizer contains will see their potency and effectiveness reduced because of jar packaging. See More Info to find out why jar packaging is a problem for ingredient integrity and general hygiene.

Although this moisturizer contains the AHA ingredient lactic acid and the BHA ingredient salicylic acid, the product's pH is too high for either of them to function as exfoliants. And despite containing yogurt and yogurt being a source of probiotics, there's limited (though intriguing) research showing probiotics applied topically help skin, breakout-prone or not. Of course, the jar packaging is a problem for the stability of the yogurt, too; think how long a container of yogurt would last on your bathroom counter if you opened it each day, ate a spoonful, then replaced the cap.

The packaging and formulary concerns for breakout-prone skin are one thing, but the main reason this moisturizer isn't recommended is because it contains menthol, which is a skin irritant. Irritation is not the way to help breakout-prone skin become clearer, but it can potentially make it and the resulting redness worse.

Pros:
  • Contains a nice mix of beneficial plant ingredients.
Cons:
  • Jar packaging won't keep all the natural ingredients stable and effective once opened.
  • Probiotics in yogurt are not proven beneficial for topical use on skin.
  • The amount of oil in this moisturizer can be a problem for breakout-prone or oily skin.
  • Cannot make pores look smaller or more "toned".
  • Contains known skin irritant menthol.
  • Expensive given the lack of benefits.
More Info:

The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818-829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271-288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197-203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1-32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

Claims

Eminence VitaSkin Vitamin Solutions Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer hydrates and purifies to promote a clear, radiant complexion. Yogurt gently exfoliates to remove dulling, dead dermal cells and blemish-causing impurities as cucumber juice tones to diminish the appearance of large pores. Vitamin B5 and shea butter work to condition and replenish moisture, improving texture and tone while delivering a long-lasting, comfortable feel.

Ingredients

Cucumber Juice, Zea Mays (Corn) Germ Oil, Salix Alba (Willow Bark) Extract, Yogurt, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Lactic Acid, Vegetable Glycerin, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Oil, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Vegetable Squalane, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Ester), Xantham Gum, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Menthol.

Brand Overview

Eminence Organic Skin Care At-A-Glance

Strengths: All of the sunscreens provide UVA protection via zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide; one worthwhile moisturizer.

Weaknesses: The inclusion of irritating ingredients with no proven benefit for skin; lack of preservatives in every product along with jar packaging; limited choice of sunscreens; very irritating cleansers and toners; expensive products that have short shelf lives (due to the jar packaging).

Originally hailing from Hungary, Eminence Organics is now distributed from Canada, and is a huge assembly of products sold primarily in spas. As the brand's name states, its claim to fame is the use of organic ingredients. Moreover, it uses more food-based ingredients than any other line we know of, except for Lush. But are "organic" ingredients enough reason for you to consider this line? Possibly, if you're looking for lunch—but if you're looking for great skin care, you'll find dozens of options superior to this one.

The whole issue of organic cosmetics could fill a book, but to put it briefly there are still no FDA-approved standards to meet for labeling cosmetic products as organic. The same is true in Canada, except in the province of Quebec. Beyond that, another element complicating this issue is the fact that even though lots of cosmetics contain organic ingredients, it's rarely the case that the entire formula is organic. Why? There are various reasons, but mostly it's because a number of synthetic ingredients, such as preservatives, are essential components of many cosmetic formulas. And they're there for a reason: The organic ingredients are not stable and will deteriorate without them. It also helps to remember that you can't put avocados (or any other food item) on your face to "feed" your skin. To make a long story short, these factors help explain why, until acceptable standards are in place, any cosmetic can sport an organic label without having to prove the claim.

More important than getting labeling standards in place is the fact that lots of plant extracts and essential oils have irritating properties that won't help skin in the least—so what difference does it make if they're organically grown or not? Environmental impact and sustainable farming notwithstanding, peppermint is a problem for skin, whether it's grown with or without pesticides. And lest we forget, the process of extraction is anything but natural.

One of Eminence's main issues is that not one of its products contains a reliable preservative system (or any ingredients with known preserving qualities, at least against a wide spread of molds, bacteria, and fungi). This in itself is a problem, but it becomes a bigger problem because Eminence uses so many spoilage-prone food ingredients, including fruit pulp, yogurt, and pumpkin. Also, jar packaging is rampant, which means these light- and air-sensitive ingredients will degrade much faster than they would in better containers. According to correspondence we had with the company, they preserve their products with a blend of honey, lemon, and salicylic acid. Honey is not known to have any preservative qualities in the small amount present in cosmetic products. Lemon oil has some preservative ability due to its limonene content, but it must be present in at least a 4% concentration unless it is paired with other preservatives (and that amount would most definitely be irritating), and that is not the concentration used in these products. Salicylic acid is the most reliable preservative of the three, but even this is subject to formulary restrictions that Eminence doesn't consistently follow. Considering that salicylic acid is not a broad-spectrum preservative, you'd likely end up with a microbial soup (Source: Preservatives for Cosmetics, 2nd Edition, Allured, 2006).

Another questionable issue is Eminence's incorrect listing of certain ingredients. Of course, the plant and food ingredients are spelled out clearly, but the phrases "natural cream base," "glycine derivative," and "natural moisturizing factor" keep consumers in the dark about what these products really contain, and they don't meet the labeling regulations of Canada or any other country. We suspect that the wordplay has to do with Eminence's goal of making sure that their labels appear to list only natural ingredients.

There really is very little to recommend about this line; even their decent products could easily be made at home with food ingredients, oils, and a blender. We wouldn't recommend making your skincare products in your kitchen, however, because your skin deserves better support. For those who are intrigued by the concept, the homemade option would beat spending the amount of money Eminence Organics products cost.

For more information about Eminence Organic Skin Care, call (888) 747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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04.07.2015
Sadly only a one-star

Sadly have to agree 100% with this review!

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