02.13.2014
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Jojoba Charcoal Facial Scrub
Rating
3.4 fl. oz. for $18
Category:Skin Care > Sensitive Skin Products > Face/Body Scrubs
Last Updated:02.13.2014
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

Despite the name, this product's scrub ingredients include jojoba beads and acai pulp powder, not charcoal. Charcoal is present, but given the small amount it has minimal exfoliating effect on the skin, which is a good thing because it really is too abrasive for use on the face.

The charcoal is seemingly included due to its reputation of removing toxins. Although that's true for charcoal when it's taken orally (it's sometimes used in hospitals to absorb harmful or an excess of drugs before they enter a person's bloodstream), charcoal cannot purge toxins from the skin.

Our skin cannot detoxify anything; this function is done in the body by the liver and kidneys. Many people think (and lots of cosmetics companies reinforce the idea) that skin is deluged with toxins that need to be purged—that's simply not the case. Plus, no one ever adequately explains what these alleged toxins are, but we suppose they don't have to because for most consumers the word "toxin" is scary enough to convince them to take action, despite the absurdity of it.

This scrub's wax content could pose a risk of clogging pores and so we don't recommend it for skin prone to breakouts. The main reason for the POOR rating is the inclusion of fragrant plant oils that pose a strong risk of irritation.

Instead of a problematic scrub like this, for manual exfoliation and a bit of extra cleaning, use a gentle washcloth, or the Clarisonic with the Sensitive Head Brush, either of which is far better for your skin. For the best type of exfoliation, consider a leave-on exfoliant that contains salicylic acid, also known as beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which can make a much bigger difference for breakouts, blackheads, clogged pores, and signs of aging than any scrub.

Pros:
  • Gentle, fragrance-free, formula.
  • The scrub ingredients are soft and less likely to feel abrasive like pits or shells can.
Cons:
  • Charcoal cannot exfoliate, deep clean, or remove toxins lurking in skin.
  • Difficult to rinse.
Claims

Unique facial scrub formulated with Jojoba Wax Beads and Activated Charcoal to effectively remove dead skin, impurities and toxins. Refines texture and encourages skin renewal, leaving skin smooth and refreshed.

Ingredients

Aloe Barbadensis (Organic Aloe Vera) Juice, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut RBD) Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Wax Beads, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Emulsifying Wax, Palm Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Aleurites Moluccana (Kukui Nut) Oil, Spinacia Oleracea (Spinach) Extract, Activated Charcoal, Xanthan Gum (Polysaccharide Gum), Citrus Limonum (Lemon) Essential Oil, Lavandula Spp. (Lavender 40/42) Essential Oil, Cananga Odorata (Ylang Ylang) Essential Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Essential Oil.

Brand Overview

Strengths:

Several products contain a good range of anti-aging ingredients; products are packaged to keep the light- and air-sensitive ingredients stable during use; good moisturizing mask.

Weaknesses:

Many of the products are highly fragrant and/or contain fragrant plant extracts or oils known to be irritating; several of the serums contain the exact same ingredients, just listed in a different order, which makes things needlessly confusing; in a line full of anti-aging lotions and potions; no options with reliable amounts of ingredients proven to treat dark spots, red marks from acne, or breakouts; the claim of aloe being special for skin is overinflated.

What do the popular hair accessory line called SCUNCI (aka "scrunchy") and the natural-themed skin-care brand Michael Todd True Organics have in common? Both are associated with a man named Lewis Hendler. Hendler founded SCUNCI in the early '90s and sold the company to Conair in 2005. Then, in 2008, Hendler acquired the little-known Michael Todd True Organics skin-care brand.

As we understand it, there really was someone named Michael Todd who played a role in the brand's history, but there's no mention of the real Michael Todd to be found on the company's website. We did find a press release explaining that he is or was a model and actor, but that's about it. Hendler is the brand's public face, along with a few lesser known celebrities.

This Florida-based company has captured the attention of many consumers due to its claims of using natural and organic ingredients coupled with active anti-aging and anti-acne ingredients (all of which, by the way, are synthetic, which is just fine for skin, just not as "all natural" as the company wants you to believe).

Like many natural-themed lines, Michael Todd True Organics promotes some of the most absurd and misleading information imaginable about skin and skin care. A big one—directly from the owner himself—is that everything we put on our skin is absorbed into the body … cosmetic ingredients go right past the skin and into the bloodstream. If that were true (it isn't, thank goodness, but we'll get to that shortly), then moisturizers couldn't moisturize, exfoliants couldn't remove the top layers of dead, dried skin, and sunscreens would not prevent sunburns or tanning. Most skin-care ingredients do their job by staying on top (or at least in the top layers) of the skin, not by being absorbed into the body.

In essence, if absorption into the body were true, then even Hendler would have to admit that his own products (many of which contain problematic ingredients like neem oil and/or lavender oil, which are toxic when ingested) would do little for the skin because as soon as you apply them—poof! They're in the body, just like as soon as you swallow food it's on its way to your digestive system.

The truth is that skin is a very good barrier, and that it's difficult to get cosmetic ingredients to penetrate much past the uppermost layers, much less into the bloodstream, as almost all cosmetics chemists will tell you. The good news is that keeping skin-care ingredients, such as moisturizing agents, skin-repairing ingredients, sunscreen actives, and antioxidants, in the skin's outermost layers is really helpful—it means that the skin's surface (its first line of defense) has a better chance of remaining healthy, smooth, and better able to protect itself against environmental damage. But assuming everything we put on our skin did get into the body, thinking that natural ingredients are safer is wrong; there are hundreds of problematic natural ingredients that could cause serious health problems if they routinely got into the body.

Michael Todd True Organics is big on promoting what their products don't contain, including water, which is bizarre given that water is one of the most natural ingredients on earth. But, more to the point, these products absolutely do contain water in the form of aloe juice; aloe is 99.5% water (Sources: Indian Journal of Dermatology, volume 53, issue 4, 2008, pages 163–166; and http://apps.who.int/medicinedocs/en/d/Js2200e/6.html#Js2200e.6). You're not really getting a more concentrated product simply because it's based on aloe rather than pure water.

What's important to know is that there are good and bad natural ingredients, as well as good and bad synthetic ingredients. Seeing a preponderance of natural ingredients on a skin-care label is no guarantee the product you're considering is better or safer than one that contains natural and synthetic ingredients.

The Michael Todd brand also avoids the usual group of ingredients that have been given an undeserved bad rap, such as parabens, sulfates, triclosan, mineral oil, and synthetic fragrances, all of which we discuss elsewhere on our website (A quick summary: None of the aforementioned ingredients are dangerous for skin. If you still are concerned, don't think for a minute that this is the only line that leaves them out!)

What Michael Todd's product information doesn't tell you about is the extensive amount of research that shows how problematic the fragrant oils and plant extracts that they include in their products are. The irony is that the ingredients they brag about not using are comparably better and, yes, safer for your skin! That's not to say that this brand's products are unsafe; rather, it's to illustrate the point that synthetic ingredients aren't automatically evil, and that all-natural ingredients are not angelic.

The company definitely ups the beneficial ante with ingredients like retinol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamins (all synthetic by the way), but these great ingredients are surrounded by not-so-great ingredients, many of which are overly fragrant—and the research is clear: Fragrance isn't skin-caring in the least.

Sadly, what you get with almost the entire Michael Todd line is a mixed bag. Product after product contains a frustrating mix of beneficial and problematic ingredients—and many of the products pose a strong risk of irritation, especially those with numerous citrus oils, and irritation is always bad for skin, whether the source is synthetic or natural.

For more information on Michael Todd True Organics, call 772-343-0222 or visit www.michaeltoddtrueorganics.com .

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment that Paula Begoun, founder of Beautypedia and Paula's Choice Skincare made over 30 years ago-to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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06.06.2014
worked well for me

I actually love this scrub. And I hate scrubs. It doesn't irritate my skin at all, but it instantly removes every blackhead on my face and makes it feel moisturized at the same time -- most visibly on my nose. I like that the beads in it are biodegradable -- the only kind we should be using. I only use it once or twice a month due to the ridiculous price.

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