Apple AHA Daily Face Moisturizer

by TheBalm  TimeBalm
Price:
$32 - 1.52 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
5/1/2014
Jar Packaging:
No
pH:
3.60
Tested On Animals:
No

Apple AHA Daily Face Moisturizer is one of the better products from theBalm's skin-care line, especially if you have normal to dry skin and are shopping for a moisturizing AHA exfoliant that's formulated within the correct pH range for the glycolic acid to exfoliate!

For some people with dry skin, this product could do double-duty as their nighttime AHA exfoliant and moisturizer. (If you apply this during the day, you must follow with a product rated SPF 25 or greater, with SPF 30 being ideal.) We would rate this better if the formula wasn't lacking a sophisticated mix of skin-repairing and antioxidant ingredients. Because of this shortcoming, it isn't the ideal 2-in-1 formula to cut the exfoliant step from your routine—perhaps just in a pinch or for use when traveling.

The only potential cause for concern is the lemon peel extract, although it's present in a small amount that's unlikely to be a problem. For the record, though, neither lemon peel nor the sugarcane extract also present in this product have an exfoliating effect on the skin; it's the glycolic acid (which is almost always synthetic because the synthetic form is much more effective) that's doing that job.

Pros:
  • Contains an effective amount of the AHA glycolic acid formulated within the pH range it needs to exfoliate.
  • Moisturizing lotion base is good for dry skin, potentially making this a two-in-one product (AHA exfoliant and moisturizer).
Cons:
  • The lemon peel extract poses a slight risk of irritation, but in all likelihood is present in too low an amount to be cause for concern.
  • Formula would be even better with a mix of more sophisticated skin-repairing and antioxidant ingredients.

Apple AHA Daily Face Moisturizer is an oil-free lotion, which uses the powerful combination of Glycolic and Mixed Fruit Acids to help refine skin’s texture and appearance.

Water, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sorbitan Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ammonium Hydroxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract (Saccharum Officinarum), Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Fragrance (Parfum)

Today, most cosmetics companies seem to be launched for one of three distinct reasons: they come about as the extension of a high-end fashion house's brand (like Burberry, Tom Ford, Dolce & Gabbana, Marc Jacobs, or Armani); they're created by some corporation under the endorsement of a celebrity (Drew Barrymore's Flower Beauty or Kat Von D's line); or, as is the case for theBalm Cosmetics, an entrepreneur saw an "unfilled niche" in the cosmetics market and decided to get to work.

theBalm was founded in San Francisco by Marissa Shipman, who spent years trying to break into the cosmetics industry before forming her own company in 2004. As the story goes, she crafted her own products in her kitchen by consulting makeup books she bought from Amazon.com. (We hoped that one of them was Paula's Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, but given many of the formulations, we don't think so.) Eventually she was able to hire a chemist, get a lab (Bye-bye, kitchen workshop!), and secure distribution through cosmetics retailer Sephora. theBalm's products have (pardon the pun) exploded and are now sold in dozens of countries worldwide.

It's interesting to note that theBalm is quite reminiscent of the Benefit brand; the similarity of the packaging, marketing, colors, product selection, and even the place of origin - San Francisco – is blatant. Featuring recyclable cardboard packaging with retro pinup-style artwork and cutesy names, theBalm line includes both makeup and skin care products, and is reasonably priced, although it's definitely more expensive than what you'll find at the drugstore.

The company's makeup is definitely its stronger suit, with some good options, such as a couple eyeshadow palettes, the mascara, and its pressed-powder blushes. It has one true blockbuster product: Balm Shelter tinted moisturizer. This standout product performs amazingly well and is deserving of its many accolades.

Unfortunately, theBalm also has some problematic makeup, in particular, and ironically, their lip products. The inclusion of irritants in two of its lip products is disappointing, and an otherwise excellent lip gloss (with SPF, no less) is marred by a fragrance that's downright overwhelming initially and potentially irritating if used every day.

As far as skin-care, the company's collection, called TimeBalm, is surprisingly larger than you might think. It includes cleansers, toners, moisturizers, AHA exfoliants, masks, eye-area products, and a handful of ancillary items that are questionable in terms of their benefit—though some of them, like the foundation primer, are indeed worth checking out.

Overall, based on the formulas, there’s little reason to give the majority of these skin-care products a second thought, as most of them are laced with one or more problematic ingredients or, in the case of most of the moisturizers, suffer due to jar packaging, which compromises the product’s stability. The prices are good, but there’s not much value in saving money on average-to-problematic products, especially when spending just a bit more can get you far better formulas.

theBalm boasts that TimeBalm skin-care products are free of parabens, synthetic dyes, and phthalates, and many consumers seem to be seeking such products. However, parabens are not a problem, and phthalates aren’t usually included in skin-care products—they’re more often seen in nail polish and in some fragrances. Not including synthetic dyes is helpful, but it would have been even better for your skin if theBalm had avoided fragrant oils and other plant-based irritants. Lots of theBalm products contain great natural ingredients, but they’re often commingled with potentially irritating natural ingredients, and that doesn’t add up to great skin care—it’s more of a ticking time bomb than anything else.

For more information, call 510-522-3610, or visit www.thebalm.com. And yes, we're aware that "it's thebalm.com" is an expression used to indicate something that's totally cool. Coincidence? We'll let the reviews speak for themselves!

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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