10 Skin Care Tips to Transform Your Skin

Airdate: 3/10/11

Learn about 10 quick but essential skin care tips you absolutely need to know for healthier, more vibrant skin!

Paula Begoun: Well, good morning, good evening in Seattle, but good morning from Thailand. This is Paula Begoun. I am the Cosmetics Cop. And me and my Paula's Choice team are dedicated to keeping you beautifully informed. We do that on our Web site, and and on BlogTalkRadio.
00:00:32 It's live every Thursday evening in Seattle or wherever I happen to be in the world and it is Friday morning in Thailand. I'm on Koh Samui and a gorgeous resort. I know Desiree and Bryan, my Paula's Choice teammates that do BlogTalkRadio with me every week are jealous.
Desiree Stordahl: We are.
Paula Begoun: I know. Bryan, I know you have for your wedding you have a travel Web site thing where people can give you gifts of travel?
00:01:08 What is that? Because I know you got you something.
Bryan Barron: You did! And thank you very much.
Paula Begoun: Did I do good?
Bryan Barron: You did very good. Ben was very excited. It's going to be awesome. We had a lot of people asking us, where are you registered, where are you registered, and given that Ben and I are established, we have a household, we are both in our mid-30s…
00:01:35 We are not the typical couple that needs pots and pans and silverware and all of that. So, actually Randy, a coworker here at Paula's Choice, suggested that we do an online honeymoon registry. And so he told us about this site called Traveler's Joy and it allows you to setup your own webpage where you can register for pretty much anything you want that has to do with a trip.
00:02:01 And you can set it up however you want. It is really customizable. If you don't want to do the customizing you can kind of use their templates and follow their suggestions. And I kind of did a little of both because it can get overwhelming pretty quickly. But it has been working out really well.
Paula Begoun: Well, I want you to know, I think it is brilliant, but you are still going to be jealous of where I'm at.
Bryan Barron: I can imagine.
Paula Begoun: I am jealous of where I am at.
00:02:29 The second I leave here I am going to be jealous that I was there. I'm at the Banyan Tree property on Koh Samui, an island off of the peninsula part of Thailand and the gulf and, oh my god. Oh my god! I can't believe what I am looking at…just 200 degrees expansive water and ocean and I mean…okay, I'll stop, because it is just.
00:02:58 I know Desiree and Bryan will hang up in a second and then I will have to do the show all by myself.
Bryan Barron: Yeah, we are both feeling tired today. It's cold and rainy and windy here. I didn't even bring the dog to work because I wanted to keep her on the ground it is so windy.
Paula Begoun: Little Satine is a little light little puppy dog thing that could blow away. In Koh Samui the major thing, I mean I know I shouldn't complain.
00:03:29 You guys will hate me when I complain, but the sunscreen sweat combination…oh my god. Oh my god! I feel…I wish I didn't know as much as I do about sun protection because it is so hot and humid here, even with this incredible breeze. These storms have been blowing in and out. Just magnificent clouds billowing in the sky.
00:04:00 And the wind sweeping…it cools you off. But only to a point! And then sunscreen and the sun is out first thing in the morning, well obviously, because it is morning, and I know the bad rays of the sun are coming through the windows. In Seattle the sun doesn't even come up till 8 o'clock. And I'm six in the morning slathering on sunscreen, sweating…and I'm having an allergic reaction which is just pissing me off.
00:04:34 I know that I have a sensitivity to synthetic sunscreen ingredients and I love our SPF 45, it is so lightweight. It is so beautiful, and damn it, I'm having an allergic reaction on my left hand. I have eczema anyway on my hands. And so it is just…I'm going to use it everywhere else and just stay with the Pure Mineral.
00:05:01 That's what I do is I layer our Pure Mineral sunscreen with just titanium dioxide because that has no risk of causing an allergic reaction. And I use that particularly around my eyes and forehead and then I layer the SPF 45 over it on the rest of my body. And you know, I know it is working because I don't have those brown…
00:05:26 I mean I see all of these people around me who aren't using sunscreen and I know what it is doing to their skin. You can see it on their skin. Young people with brown patches and wrinkles. So, I know the pros and cons, but I wish I didn't know right now because I would rather not be going through all of this. But there are no brown spots on the back of my hand. It looks pretty good. I'm sorry, Bryan, what?
Bryan Barron: I was going to ask really quick, is Harsha with you?
Paula Begoun: Yes, of course. Yes, my boyfriend, Harsha.
Bryan Barron: So, is it a challenge to get him to put sunscreen on in that environment? Or does he go along with it?
Paula Begoun: My Indian boyfriend…no, are you kidding? My Indian boyfriend who has never worn sunscreen a day in his life, who has actually weathered…he is from Mumbai, but lived in the United States in the New York area for most of his…from the age of 26 till he met me. And now he lives in Seattle.
00:06:32 So, his brown, gorgeous brown skin, has gotten browner. But he doesn't show the…I mean obviously the darker skin you are, the more natural sunscreen in your skin already exists. A white person has about an SPF 1…if…maybe a negative 2.
00:06:56 And then the darker you go, where somebody with ebony black skin actually has, depending on what sources you use, actually has an SPF, I don't know, 20 naturally in their skin form the amount of melanin their skin already has. So, yes, he…I hate that he can sit in the sun, look fairly damn good. I'm cursing a lot; I need to stop cursing. I apologize to everybody. I talk about sun exposure and I just get riled up.
00:07:29 We have been arguing about it. I say, "Get out of the sun!" And he goes, "Why? I'm not burning. I'm not wrinkling. What do you want from me?" But I want to be sitting next to you, you little cutie. So, yes, sorry, so yes Harsha is with me. He has never worn sunscreen a day in his life. He surely isn't starting because of me. I'm sorry. But what we are going to talk about, and I should get to, is 10 secrets – actually they are not such secrets.
00:07:59 If you have been following my work a lot of you already know this. If not, these are some really, if you know my work these are good reminders. If you don't know my work, take notes. I promise you what I am about to share with you is going to change your life. Well, change your skin, that is for sure. And that is what is all about – that is what we are talking about. So, here is what is not going to be a secret anymore because you are going to know is that number one, probably the most important thing, other than sunscreen, I'm going to say sunscreen many, many times obviously, I already have.
00:08:32 In terms of the most immediate bang for your buck, for really getting overnight results without question is to exfoliate. I know at the counters they all say moisturize, moisturize, moisturize, moisturizers…that is fine if the product is well formulated and we will get to that in a second. But in terms of waking up every day with smoother, firmer skin, there is no way around it, exfoliation with a gentle AHA, meaning glycolic acid-based product.
00:09:03 Or, a BHA, a salicylic acid-based product, that doesn't contain alcohol or irritants or irritating fragrant plant extracts or synthetic fragrance ingredients makes a huge difference in your skin. I can't say it enough. that is my absolute number one suggestion. It is at least worth a try.
00:09:25 You are going to suck in all of those ads you are going to see about a rejuvenating and 1,000 women all saw less wrinkles and you are going to buy into that month after month when you see those ads or watch those infomercials. I'm telling you, just try a BHA or an AHA product once – a well formulated one. You can go to, our Web site where we review all of these products, thousands of products, but you can look up the best BHA and AHA products and decide for yourself to give it a shot. Give it a shot.
00:10:04 Now speaking of giving something a shot. Oh, I didn't explain. So, why exfoliation is so incredible is because with sun damage or if you have oily skin or acneed skin, the outer layer of skin gets thicker. It can't shed naturally. So, a well formulated AHA or BHA product helps skin do what it would do if it didn't have those problems.
00:10:30 So, you get those built up dead skin cells off of skin gently and skin does look remarkable the next morning because it is…you are helping it do what it would have done and you would have woken up with better skin anyway. And then on top of it research shows that glycolic acid and beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid actually, build collagen.
00:10:57 The second thing is save up for one dermatologic treatment. Dermal fillers. Botox. Laser. IPL. Save up for one. I know women say it to me all the time, "I don't want to do that. I don't want to do Botox. I don't want to do dermal fillers. I don't want to do that." And all I hear in my head – but they want some cosmetic product that will somehow to some extent replace it. And here is the bottom line is that cosmetics don't replace it. I'm not pushing –
00:11:34 Well, maybe I am pushing dermatologic treatments, but at least try one. Try one, just to see what it does before you jump in and buy that next range of infomercial products or that next advertised miracle product. The difference in what those procedures can do when they are done by a talented physician is astounding. Consider it. Consider it.
Bryan Barron: And look what the women are up against at the cosmetics counters, it is getting so expensive out there. I just took a look at t new anti-aging product from La Prairie. You get four vials of product, and each vial has less than a quarter ounce in it. It's a terrible formula. And it is $475.
Desiree Stordahl: Ouch.
Paula Begoun: Oh, that is painful.
Bryan Barron: I mean I just got IPL for less than that, and I love the results.
Paula Begoun: And Botox costs $600 and it lasts for most people somewhere between 4 to 9 months and some people for a year. Actually, somebody on Facebook asked us about when I had my first cosmetic corrective dermatologic procedure, and I got Botox – and believe me, I wasn't thrilled about the idea either. I was hesitant.
00:13:02 I had done a ton of research and thought about it. And I was consulting with a dermatologist and he said, "Oh, come on. Just sit down and do it. You will be shocked the difference." And I was. And I was also shocked when I came back in the office that nobody noticed. Here I thought everyone is going to go, "Oh, wow, you can't move your forehead." And nobody in the office, I had what, 20 employees at the time, Bryan?
Bryan Barron: Yeah, around there.
Paula Begoun: And nobody noticed. Nobody. My friends and family didn't…
00:13:31 And I thought, is nobody looking at me because all of a sudden I went from having wrinkles on my forehead to having no wrinkles. But we actually are doing another show on dermatologic treatments. So, okay, number three. Expensive doesn't mean better, but cheap doesn't work either. And when I say "cheap" I mean if you are buying a Lubriderm or a Cetaphil…price does…it's too basic. It doesn't have derma…what are the Johnson&Johnson ones, the Vaseline Intensive care ones.
00:14:06 It's not that they are bad, but it is sort of like using a typewriter when you could be using a computer.
Bryan Barron: Or an iPad.
Paula Begoun: Or an iPad. I haven't gotten there yet. So, the issue is that the state of the art ingredients that come in lots of products in all price ranges, it doesn't usually come or rarely can come because of the price of these state of the art ingredients in a product that is that cheap.
00:14:34 So, you do have to spend. It doesn't have to be a lot. It can be $15 to $30, but much less than that and, especially in a big container, and you are not getting what is best for your skin. Okay, sunscreen, boring. Wear it every day, 365 days a year. The bad rays come through the windows. Okay. I'm done. I'm not going to say that again. Not this show, at least.
00:14:57 Okay, get all of your eye makeup off around your eyes. Please! A cleanser by itself isn't going to do that. I thought for years that it did until I saw research from a dermatologist I respected a lot who showed me the amount of eye makeup that gets left behind that you don't see if you are not wearing magnifying glasses, and I mean really powerful magnifying glasses. She did a research paper because when before she would do procedures on eyes and she was a dermatologist who happened to do plastic surgery –
00:15:32 She said the amount of makeup women don't know is still on their eye area that she has to take off in order to do surgery astounded her and sure enough she found – I can't remember how many women she looked at – but all of these women thought that they had gotten all of their makeup off and when they looked under a, I think it was a 20 times magnifying mirror, there was so much dry skin and makeup built up around the eye area.
00:16:01 And what that means, that constant stuff left on your eye, makeup product left on your eye, powders and foundations and sunscreen ingredients –
Bryan Barron: Eye-liner.
Paula Begoun: Foundations. Eye-liner. Is it causes, or mascara for that matter, too, Bryan.
Bryan Barron: Oh absolutely.
Paula Begoun: It causes irritation. And that irritation will cause puffiness. Will eventually, the puffiness will eventually cause collagen breakdown and dark circles – all the things you don't like what is happening to your eyes, that will make it worse. So, use an eye makeup remover.
00:16:37 You will be surprised the difference. Take a look at that pad until it is 100% clean, don't stop. In fact today, Desiree, make sure every caller we take gets a Paula's Choice Gentle Touch Makeup Remover. Got to make sure everybody is getting their makeup off.
Bryan Barron: Paula I love, when I have occasion to remove makeup from around the eye area, especially waterproof mascaras, I love using a cotton swab over a pad.
00:17:08 I just saturate the tip of a cotton swab and it kind of lets me get into every corner. I can easily go over and under the lashes. And then when it starts getting too schmecky, I just switch it around to the other side and sometimes you have to go through two or three of them, but just a suggestion.
Paula Begoun: Bryan, did you just say "schmecky?"
Bryan Barron: Did I?
Paula Begoun: You did.
Bryan Barron: Maybe I did.
Paula Begoun: I finally taught you Yiddish, I can't believe it. That is a great New York little [unintelligible]. I'm proud of you, Bryan. I'm proud of you.
Bryan Barron: Thanks.
Paula Begoun: So, the next one, moisturizing isn't the answer. "Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize." Forget that one. I am tired of hearing it. It isn't true. Moisturizer isn't the answer.
00:17:59 What is the answer are products, whether they are a toner or a serum, they are called anti-aging, anti-wrinkle. They are a cream, they are a lotion, whatever, and they are not in a jar because it won't keep the great ingredients stable. Whatever the label says, whatever the texture of the product, it must be loaded with antioxidants and it must be loaded with skin healing ingredients and cell communicating ingredients like retinol.
00:18:29 That is what makes the difference on skin, not moisturizer. Moisturizer by itself might make skin feel temporarily better, but that is it. It needs the other stuff to really make skin look and act younger. And actually be younger. Make younger skin cells. Skin lightener. That is something to consider and I am going to suggest products with hydroquinone. You can get them from dermatologists.
00:19:01 Paula's Choice has two options at a 2% concentration. From dermatologists you can get a 4% concentration. Brown discolorations make skin look older. What really gets rid of them brilliantly is an IPL treatment or a laser treatment you can get from a dermatologist. And they go away. And especially if you are good about using sunscreen neurotically, they actually can stay away for a very, very long, long, long time.
00:19:30 And using Hydroquinone on top of that keeps them away shockingly well. Skin lightening makes a difference when it is a well formulated product or you combine it with a dermatologic treatment. Brown discolorations make skin look older and a Hydroquinone product can be cheap. Actually it is two of our least expensive skincare products we sell in Paula's Choice. Hydroquinone isn't a fancy ingredient; it has been around forever.
00:20:00 You need to patch test it to make sure your skin can use it. And it makes a huge difference. The next one, number eight, foundation can contain treatment ingredients, meaning antioxidants, skin repairing ingredients, cell communicating…well maybe not cell communicating ingredients too much. And sunscreen! And so the three we are going to recommend that do a brilliant combination of sunscreen and some intriguing antioxidants and state of the art ingredients, and sunscreen which is really the best of all worlds for a foundation is Clinique Even Better Makeup SPF 15 for $24.
00:20:40 Estee Lauder Resilience Lift Extreme – it is not so extreme. But it is a very good foundation with SPF 15, $36.50.
Bryan Barron: And it's a liquid one.
Paula Begoun: The liquid one, not the cream one.
Bryan Barron: Right, Lauder has at least three, I think, Resilience Lift Foundations.
00:21:02 So, we are referring to the liquid, not the ones in the compact.
Paula Begoun: Right, because a compact wouldn't keep those great ingredients stable.
Bryan Barron: Exactly.
Paula Begoun: MAC Studio Sculpt SPF 15 foundation…by the way, interesting, these are all Lauder Corporation. Lauder does get the antioxidant thing right. They just really do.
00:21:28 Their claims upset me. Their pricing upsets me. Their La Mer product line is just ridiculously, obnoxiously overpriced. But darn, when they do it right, Lauder Corporation products, wow, they really do a good job. So, MAC Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation. And our new Resist foundation is coming out and many of our, I've got to give a plug to my products. And our foundations with sunscreen are obviously, when you have a foundation with sunscreen you have dual action.
00:21:58 I am going to say it again: Antioxidants, antioxidants and more antioxidants, whether you apply them to your skin or you eat them, diet high in antioxidants, in Omega-6 and Omega-3. Right? Omega-3, Omega-6 fatty acids? Did I get that right?
Bryan Barron: Yes.
Paula Begoun: That you find in fish. Brilliant for skin. Do consider Renova or a generic prescription retinoid. What retinoids refer to is a type of Vitamin-A derivative that is prescription-only.
00:22:31 Renova contains an ingredient called tretinoin and there are other ones, too. But one of those types of products, and you can get it generically. It doesn't have to be all that expensive. If your skin can tolerate it, absolutely it is an option.
You know guys, we need to…god, there are so many shows we need to do. We need to do a show on how to use topical dermatologic prescription products so your skin can tolerate it, like a topical antibiotic that they give you or a topical antibiotic combined with benzoyl peroxide.
00:23:06 One of the things I have noticed, we need to take a look at some of the dermatologic prescription products for skin, because some of them are just badly formulated or they are tricky to use like a Renova or Retin-A product because the Vitamin-A derivatives prescription products or even just Retinol can be tricky for…we have to do that, dermatologic treatments. What were you going to say Bryan?
Bryan Barron: Oh, one of the the…on the topic of retinoids, one of the mistakes that I have witnessed and read about women doing is they get into the mentality if a little bit is good, more must be better. So, they will use their prescription retinoid twice a day. They will combine it with another product, an over-the-counter product that has retinol. They are using a Vitamin-C serum, they are exfoliating with high-strength AHAs.
00:24:01 And they get to the point where they are getting so much of a good thing that it stops becoming a good thing and they tip the scales in favor of causing irritation and dryness and flaking and then they get to the point where they beg off everything.
Paula Begoun: Right. Actually that is really what…exactly. It is actually, I often…because I don't see all of the products women have in the bathroom…
00:24:33 But for most skin types actually using a product like Retin-A once a day or once every other day or once a day mixed with your moisturizer, just put it on straight every day with an exfoliant – I don't think there are many skin types that can actually tolerate that. So, we have to do a show coming up, ladies and gentlemen, and Desiree write it down.
00:25:02 We need to do a show on how to use these products so you are successful because they can make a huge difference. And as a matter of fact the next two, because we are going over…
Desiree Stordahl: Before you move on to the next point, until we do that show we actually have an article on our Web site called "Retinol and your Skincare Routine." And it goes over how and why to use an over-the-counter or prescription retinoid product. So, people can also get some information there, now.
Paula Begoun: And how to use it?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes.
Paula Begoun: I think I wrote that article. Is that what Bryan and I said, because I never remember what I wrote.
Bryan Barron: That is just one, but there is the larger topic of discussing and going over the prescription skincare options would be a great topic for a show.
Paula Begoun: Like Hydroquinone, and higher-strength exfoliants.
Bryan Barron: Products for Rosacea.
Paula Begoun: Right. Like Azelaic acid. Right. That will be a great show.
00:26:04 And on the topic of treatment products, one of the things women often say to me is, "I'm not ready to do something." And by the time you have said that, it is probably too late. In other words, if you have oily skin and blackheads, and you are ten years down the road of struggling with oily skin and blackheads and you haven't really done what it takes to treat them, you can actually get to the point where they become permanent.
00:26:37 You have a damaged pore that is not going to go back to the way it was. You have to get on top of it. We have great articles on to walk you through it. We have done shows on it on BlogTalkRadio. Or Retin-A or Renova or a dermatologic treatment when you start seeing brown spots.
00:27:00 Don't put off treating your skin…don't wait till you start seeing wrinkles to say I need to do something and start using products with antioxidants or start using exfoliants. People ask me all the time, "When should I start using good skincare? When should I start doing something for my skin?" And it is from birth! It is because from the day you are born you need great skincare, right? You need to take a bath. You need to…well, somebody is doing it for you, but you need to get clean.
00:27:32 You need to wear sunscreen. Skin gets damaged from the moment we are born. Great skincare at the different stages depending on what your skin is doing makes a huge difference in how your skin is. And the last thing. Don't smoke. Don't tan and stop irritating your skin. Desiree, let's take the first caller?
Desiree Stordahl: Our first caller is Michelle from Florida.
Paula Begoun: Hi Michelle.
Michelle: Hi, how are you Paula?
Paula Begoun: I'm good and warm, how are you?
Michelle: How is Thailand?
Paula Begoun: It's gorgeous. Oh my gosh.
Michelle: I love the coconut curry.
Paula Begoun: And the Thai people…sorry?
Michelle: I said I love the coconut curries there. The best in the world.
Paula Begoun: Oh, oh, spicy. I don't even want to talk about what it is doing to my body. But spicy… You know what else they have here that I have never had anywhere else in the world?
00:28:31 A fruit called Jackfruit and a fruit called, they call it [Sapodilla], the Indians call it [Chikoo] fruit. The best…I can't believe…I have never seen it in the…well actually I travel a lot. I have never seen it anywhere. I'm talking to my grocery store. We are getting that stocked in Seattle.
Michelle: Have you tried the cantaloupe with the sugar on it?
Paula Begoun: No, okay, let me write that down.
Michelle: And they sell it on a stick. It is so good. I used to travel a lot, before children. But let's get down to the basics. I'm 43. I have very oily skin. Have had blackheads forever. I have been using your products for four years. I have noticed a difference. They are a lot easier to remove, I am on top of it, but of course I live in Tampa, Florida. It is humid. And I'm a fitness instructor, so I sweat a lot.
00:29:32 I still have the oily skin. I just recently switched to your liquid 2% BHA. Love it.
Paula Begoun: That's good, yes. That is a very good decision. Right.
Michelle: I'm getting ready to put in an order and I'm looking to try some new stuff to help with my oil build up.
Paula Begoun: First, because of being from Tampa and sweating and sunscreen which I am personally experiencing like crazy, what do you use to get sunscreen to your skin? What are you using?
Michelle: I use your sunscreen and/or I use Mineral Foundation, the powder seems to help absorb the oil. But I am just always so afraid, it's like whatever I put on my face I feel like I am clogging my pores. So…
Paula Begoun: And you are. I mean, there is no way around it. I mean, not anything, but sunscreen.
00:30:29 What lotions that sunscreens can be in can clog pores. It is just the way it is. It is a problem. So, here is what I am going to suggest you do that actually I think works pretty brilliantly for oily skin. So, I wish my foundations were matte enough for somebody sweating and exercising, but I'm strongly going to suggest you consider Revlon's Colorstay foundation. It says for normal to dry skin.
00:31:01 It is the SPF 15 for normal to dry. Ignore that it says normal to dry. It isn't normal to dry. It is actually a very matte finish foundation. And a pressed powder. I'm going to send you a few of mine to test the colors that also have sunscreen. You can continue…I don't know which mineral one you are using, but there are several. Neutrogena has one, it says "mineral" but that doesn't really mean anything.
00:31:26 But the combination of a very matte titanium dioxide based sunscreen and powder with titanium dioxide is an incredible combination for somebody with normal to oily skin. What the issue is, what those do that a lotion can't do…a lotion is designed to absorb into skin. A foundation and pressed powder is designed to stay more on top of the skin which is where you really need the protection. I mean it needs to be deep, too, because the UVA stuff penetrates deep.
00:32:02 But on top of the skin in the first layers of skin can absolutely, with titanium dioxide and the blockage you just get naturally from the foundation ingredients makes a huge difference. Makes a difference in how your skin feels. The trick is getting those matte foundations off at night. So, I am going to send you my Skin Balancing Cleanser. And what I want you to do is use a wash cloth.
00:32:29 And Bryan and Desiree are not going to believe what I am about to recommend.
Michelle: I can't believe I am hearing this. A washcloth.
Paula Begoun: Well, actually I have been using a wash cloth for years, because you can't get those kind of makeups off without a little bit of help. But this is what they are going to be shocked about is the Olay Vibrating, looks like a rotary…Bryan, what is that called?
Bryan Barron: Olay Pro-X Cleansing Brush?
Paula Begoun: Yes. I know, I can't send that to you but Michelle I want you to give that a try. Bryan and Desiree, don't fall off your chairs.
Michelle: Okay, should I go with more of the Shine Stopper Matte Finish, the new thing that you have out, or should I go more with the Skin Balancing SPF with antioxidants? Which one do I go with here?
Paula Begoun: Here is what you go with – during the day under your makeup – first try the Revlon foundation before you jump in and try my Shine Stopper with it. But we are going to send you the Shine Stopper and you can experiment with it, particular around the nose.
00:33:40 You will be shocked. Or when you are not wearing makeup. You are going to love me. You are just going to love me. But for cleanser and for nighttime, that is different from daytime. So, I am going to send you the Skin Balancing Cleanser. I'm going to send you my Skin Balancing Toner. I'm going to send you another 2% BHA liquid that you would use at night.
Michelle: Well, thank you.
Paula Begoun: And then I'm going to send you my…you're welcome…wait, I'm not done. I'm going to send you my eye makeup remover, well it is actually face remover, but makeup remover for anywhere. But I don't want you to use it anywhere. I just want you to use it over your eye. You have to get all of your eye makeup off at night. And I don't want to lose my train of thought. And then my antioxidant serum from the Resist line. I want you to use that around your eye area at night.
00:34:30 And I think that that combination will get you a really good start to taking care of your skin. So, I think I have got you covered, Michelle. Thank you for calling.
Michelle: You are awesome. Can I ask you one quick more thing? This is a big question for me.
Paula Begoun: Quick, quick, quick.
Michelle: pH balance with toners and cleansers. Are you still a big advocate of having the correct pH balance? Because that is why I went with you in the first place because I remember reading about…
Paula Begoun: That's a long time to go…nowadays it is rare to find products that aren't pH balanced. As long as a product is balanced at water which is pH 7, you are fine. Because skin corrects its own pH balance very rapidly. The problem is when products go over a pH 7 but it is the rare product nowadays that does that. That is kind of old school. I mean when we were first learning about skin and pH that was really important.
00:35:29 Now what we know is you just don't want to go over a 7 and skin corrects gently on its own when you don't irritate it and rip it apart. Thanks for calling, Michelle.
Michelle: Thank you so much.
Paula Begoun: So, I can't wait to try that cantaloupe with sugar on a stick. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Dee from California.
Paula Begoun: Hi Dee.
Dee: Hi.
Paula Begoun: What can I do for you?
Dee: You actually lit on a problem that I have. I have dry skin, aging skin, that has thickened.
00:36:03 And it is almost like tiny little bumps on it. I would just say the texture has gone from what used to be very smooth to a rougher texture and it feels like the skin or looks like the skin is a little thicker. And as I said, I tend to be on the dry side.
Paula Begoun: Dee, where are you from in California?
Dee: I'm from Southern California.
Paula Begoun: You grew up in Southern California?
Dee: I did.
Paula Begoun: And how old are you, Dee?
Dee: 61.
Paula Begoun: 61. Congratulations. Making it to 61 is a big deal.
Dee: Thank you.
Paula Begoun: So, okay, are you using my products right now or are you just listening?
Dee: I'm using the 1% BHA lotion at night. And I have only been using it for about 2.5 weeks. And I had tried a couple of years ago, I had tried the AHA 8% and it seemed too strong for me. My skin didn't like that.
Paula Begoun: How is your skin reacting to the 1% BHA?
Dee: I just…I'm not sure it is enough because I still have some slight flaking on my forehead.
Paula Begoun: It's not enough. It's not enough. It's not going to be enough. But what is more…how do I say this?
00:37:30 You can't use an exfoliant and just use any skin care products. Well, you really shouldn't use just any skincare products. Skincare products have to contain no irritants. The cleansers have to be gentle. They can't be too greasy and hold skin cells down and they can't be too drying and cause more irritation and flaking. So, it is a whole package. It isn't ever just one product. So, your skin in on the normal to dry side. So, here is what I want you to do.
Dee: It's dry.
Paula Begoun: It's just dry, dry. Okay. So, here is what I want you to do. So, first, those little bumps, those little white bumps you are seeing on your skin, I'm almost 1,000% certain what you are experiencing is something called sebaceous hyperplasia. They are white raised little bumps with a kind of crater in the middle. Is that kind of what they look like? Or are they white little granular bumps under the skin?
Dee: No white. It's just that my skin used to be smooth, even where the wrinkles have begun, but now if you look at the skin there are just all these little raised places and kind of a rough raised look.
Paula Begoun: But they are not white bumps?
Dee: No.
Paula Begoun: Oh, okay, I misunderstood. Okay, so here is what I want you to do. I'm going to send you my Resist Cleanser and my Resist Toner and I am going to send you my Resist Antioxidant Concentrate Serum.
00:39:03 And then I am also going to send you my 2% BHA lotion. And I am also going to send you…the moisturizer from my Barrier Repair Resist product isn't enough for what you are describing. And so I am going to send you my Skin Recovery moisturizer and my Moisture Boost treatment moisturizer to give those a shot to see how they do. You would also use them around the eye and you would use the antioxidant concentrate over that at night.
00:39:36 And see how that combination does for your skin, particularly the Resist cleanser and toner, the Skin Recovery moisturizer, the Moisture Boost moisturizer. Oh, and I am also going to send you the sunscreens from each of those product groupings from the Skin Recovery group of products and the Moisture Boost, because you have to wear sunscreen. Part of what is happening…
Dee: Absolutely. And I am like you. I really favor the natural when possible. The titanium dioxide and zinc combination. Hello?
Paula Begoun: Right. Am I still on? Can everybody here me?
Dee: Yes, yes. Hi.
Paula Begoun: Oh, I don't want to lose Dee. I don't want to lose Dee. So, the titanium dioxide or zinc oxide-based sunscreen, especially when you have dry compromised skin will make a huge difference. So, Dee, give those products a try.
00:40:32 Stay using the 2% BHA lotion until you get those other products. But once you start using the cleanser, the toner, these gentle very antioxidant-rich moisturizers and sunscreens, I think you will start having the skin you want to see. It won't be the way it was 100%. Sun damage can only be corrected so much. But I think you will be surprised at the difference. Thanks for calling.
Dee: That would be super. And one more question?
Paula Begoun: Real quick.
Dee: Okay, my scalp always I flaky in the winter time. Do you think it would be a good idea for me to use a BHA lotion at night on the scalp?
Paula Begoun: No, no. No, no, no, don't do that. It will also exfoliate the hair shaft. Don't use BHAs or AHAs on your hair. The keratin layer is susceptible to the exfoliation of those products. But here is what you can do.
00:41:30 First of all, I'm going to send my Paula's Choice shampoo and conditioner. A lot of shampoos for those with very dry scalp contain way too much fragrance that can be an irritant or the cleansing agents can be too strong. So, I am going to send you…my Paula's Choice shampoo and conditioner have no fragrance, no risk of that irritation. The other thing I want you to do is the night before you are going to wash your hair in the morning.
00:42:02 I know this is going to sound strange but you are just going to trust me on this and try it once is take the moisturizer, my Skin Recovery moisturizer or the Moisture Boost treatment moisturizer, and massage it into your scalp.
Dee: Sounds good.
Paula Begoun: So, here is what is happening is for those of us with a dry scalp, we don't put moisturizer on it and that skin up there. It's not the hair that is dry, it is the skin that is dry.
00:42:33 So, put your moisture on, massage it into your scalp the night before you are going to wash your hair in the morning. I think you will be…as long as it is not dandruff, as long as we are just talking dry, tight, that dry…not the dandruff kind of flaking but that dryness on the scalp, I think you would be surprised the difference of using a good moisturizer up there at night. Give it a try, Dee.
Dee: Thank you so much, Paula.
Paula Begoun: You are welcome. Take care. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Bridget from Washington.
Paula Begoun: Bridget from Washington, DC or Bridget from Seattle, Washington.
Desiree Stordahl: Bridget are you there?
Bridget: Yes, I am. Can you hear me?
Paula Begoun: Yes, I can. Federal Way?
Bridget: Yes, Federal Way, right around the corner from you.
Paula Begoun: Yes, just a little south of us. Bridget, what can I do for you?
Bridget: I have a problem with foundation sinking into my large pores in the nose and I was wondering, at Sephora they always say that I should use a primer and I was wondering whether you have any recommendations for that?
Paula Begoun: I always…
Bridget: What do you think about primer?
Paula Begoun: Bridget, I always have recommendations, Bridget. You can't stop me from making recommendations. I can barely stop myself.
Bridget: I know. They are all great.
Paula Begoun: So, Bridget, how old are you, Bridget?
Bridget: 44.
Paula Begoun: You are 44. And what are you doing to take care of…are you using my products…what are you doing to take care of your skin?
Bridget: I think I am using all of your products. I'm using your one-step cleanser. Your…let me just see…your toner, the Skin Balancing Toner. I have your weekly resurfacing treatment and the daily smoothing system. And every now and then I use your 2% beta hydroxy gel.
Paula Begoun: Okay, you are not experiencing any dryness from using the weekly and the daily resurfacing treatment and the 2% BHA? How is your skin doing with that?
Bridget: My skin is doing great. It's doing awesome.
Paula Begoun: Great. "Awesome" is a good thing. So, Bridget, here is what I want you to do. I am going to send you…I think what you are doing, and especially that you are telling me you have awesome skin.
00:45:03 I am going to send you my Skin Balancing antioxidant. I would like you to use that around your eye area at night. And then I want you to also, I just lost my train of thought…oh I don't want to miss…what was I just going to tell you. Oh, I'm going to send you our eye makeup remover because we are sending everybody our Gentle Touch Makeup Remover, one of the only makeup removers, by the way listeners, that doesn't have fragrance or coloring agents in it.
00:45:30 I don't know why a cosmetic company thinks a woman needs a blue makeup remover. What is that? Okay, sorry. I'm going off in the wrong direction. I'm sorry, it was a rhetorical question, Bridget. I'm sorry. So, I did lose my train of thought. Bryan, guys, what was I just saying.
Desiree Stordahl: I'm not sure where you were going after makeup remover.
Bryan Barron: Were you going to mention something about Shine Stopper.. Because…and that whole primer.
Bridget: What you think about primer.
Paula Begoun: So, thank you. Okay, so the eye makeup, make sure you get all of your makeup off. And then I am going to send you our 2% BHA liquid. The gel is great, there is no problem with using the gel. It is beautifully formulated. But because you are struggling with open pores, I want you to try a little bit more penetrating…the 2% liquid is a stronger product. It contains the same concentration as salicylic acid…
00:46:33 But the delivery agent into the skin lets it penetrate better so I would like you to give that a try and see if it makes your skin happy. And then I want you to try our new Shine Stopper. It is specifically designed for your kind of skin with open poring. It will make a difference. If you find that our product isn't enough or doesn't do that filling in, there are other ones we recommend on, but I want you to give the Shine Stopper a try.
00:47:07 And then what foundation are you using, Bridget?
Bridget: Right now I am experimenting and I tried the [Smash Box], what is it called, the high definition?
Paula Begoun: Bryan, do you want to make a recommendation? Any of those ones we mentioned from Lauder or MAC or Clinique?
00:47:32 Would those work for Bridget or do you have another recommendation?
Bryan Barron: The Clinique Even Better would be a good one. And one of my favorite foundations for very oily skin, especially if you are having trouble with it falling into pores is the Lancôme Teint Idole Enduringly Divine makeup. I'm sure there are some more adjectives that are actually on the product itself.
00:48:02 But it is a really nice, very long-wearing liquid foundation. It holds up beautifully throughout the day and it comes in a really nice range of colors so whether you are fair, medium, tan, or even darker than that, they should be able to match you up.
Paula Begoun: And one of the things about Clinique's Even Better and Lancôme's Teint Idole because it is a department store line, you can test it before you buy it. Give it a shot.
Bryan Barron: Lancôme is actually…the Lancôme counter, or at least the ones that we frequent in the Seattle area are typically very generous with foundation samples. They will let you try different formulas and shades and it is nice because you absolutely do need to check it out on your skin. You don't want to make a snap decision in the middle of the store, at least not if you are not willing to run outside and check how it looks in daylight. Because that department store lighting will deceive you every time.
Bridget: Yes, I did notice that. Thank you so much. I enjoy your radio show; I love it. Thank you so much.
Paula Begoun: Alright, thank you Bridget. And you will let us know how your skin is doing.
Bridget: Okay, I will. Thanks, bye.
Paula Begoun: Bye-bye Bridget. Desiree, next caller?
Desiree: We have Christian from Germany.
Paula Begoun: Are you kidding, my Christian?
Christian: Yes, Paula, that's me.
Paula Begoun: No! Christian! Yay!
Bryan Barron: Oh, your German boyfriend.
Paula Begoun: My German boyfriend! Oh my god!
Christian: I just wanted to say hi and I just wanted to say I am listening in Germany. Hi to everyone.
Paula Begoun: Hi! So, Christian is a Paula's Choice partner. He sells Paula's Choice products. He sneaks it into his job…maybe I shouldn't say that to anyone who is listening on the boat. He is the head concierge for the Celebrity Cruise Line. I have taken a couple of cruises that Christian has been taking care of me. He is the head concierge.
00:50:07 I met him in the Netherlands when I have been there doing presentations. I have to say, Christian, you are not only a doll and a gentleman and gorgeous, one of the most gorgeous men I have ever met. Only…Bryan is a close second. But Christian absolutely is a magnificent dear friend.
00:50:31 I can't believe I am talking to you! You are home, you are off the boat. When are you going back out on the sea?
Christian: I'm going to be in Bermuda in four weeks or something like that.
Paula Begoun: So, do we have time to send you a whole bunch of our Shine Stoppers so you can test it out and sell it to some of your friends on the boat?
Christian: Maybe. I just wanted to say that I am listening from Germany and that I love you all and that you are amazing.
00:51:00 And that everything is wonderful.
Paula Begoun: So, you don't want my Shine Stopper?
Christian: I do want your Shine Stopper but I don't know where to send it, but I will find out something. And I wanted to let you know that I had all your sunscreens down in the Mauritius and I did not have any sunburn thanks to you.
Paula Begoun: I am proud of you. Christian's mother is from the Mauritius Islands and he went there to visit his family and the people he knows there. And I'm glad you are taking good care of your skin.
00:51:35 And you get in touch with Deb and tell her that Paula wants to send you a gift of some Shine Stopper so we will get those out to you, Christian, whether you like it or not. Thanks for calling.
Christian: That's very sweet of you. Alright, I just wanted to say. You take care, Paula.
Paula Begoun: Alright. Hope to see you soon, Christian. Take care.
Christian: Absolutely. Thank you.
Paula Begoun: Bye-bye dear. Yay Christian! I can't believe we got to talk to Christian. Okay, Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Nadia from North Carolina.
Paula Begoun: Nadia, how are you?
Nadia: Hi Paula, hi everybody, how are you doing?
Paula Begoun: Good. What can we do for you Nadia.
Nadia: Before I ask my question, I just wanted to say that I really love your products. I just think they are brilliantly formulated and I have so much respect for you as a business woman and as a consumer advocate. And I would like to thank you for always caring about what the consumer wants. And I have gotten so many people on your product lines, too.
00:52:36 Yeah, my best friend is on your acne regimen. My mom is on your Resist regimen and my brother's girlfriend is on your Rosacea regimen. So, we are all big fans. So, thank you so much.
Paula Begoun: Well, thank you, sweetheart, and please give everybody in your family my love and regards. I appreciate it, Nadia, thank you so much. What can I do for you, dear?
Nadia: I had actually, I had a question about the use of natural ingredients in products. Because I know that for a lot of products you aren't very happy about, like Origins, whatever, because they have potentially very irritating ingredients. And I realize that you are doing that to basically save the consumer from unnecessary experimentation with products that might irritate them and I really appreciate that. But if there is a product, like I use Burt's Bees primrose oil on my lips every night.
00:53:31 And I haven't had a problem with that. Is there irritation that I am not seeing? Is that okay?
Paula Begoun: Yes, here is the problem.
Nadia: I have always wondered about that.
Paula Begoun: You know, it is a great question. Bryan, do you know this product from Burt's Bees that she is using? Usually almost all of their products contain irritants. Do you know this one?
Bryan Barron: Well, she mentioned it is called primrose oil?
Nadia: No, it is primrose overnight cream. I think you gave it a frowny face. And I was like, "Oh no!"
Bryan Barron: Often what we see with natural lines and I think this is where some consumers who know our work get confused, is that they read the reviews of the natural products they are using and they draw the conclusion that Paula and the team are anti-natural ingredients which is not the case.
Nadia: Right.
Bryan Barron: There are a lot of natural ingredients that are great for your skin. Go on Paula.
Paula Begoun: Well, what I want to say is the other thing is they think what Nadia just said which is really great, Nadia, is that "I don't see irritation. I'm using the product and I don't see it so it must not be irritating my skin." It is a brilliant question, Nadia. I so appreciate it because here is the issue. When I was first writing my books back in the 80s, I would have said just what you said.
00:54:58 And I did in my books. I said it all the time. Is that we know these ingredients are irritating. But, if your skin isn't being irritated, it doesn't look irritated, it is no big deal. It turns out that that is not true. In fact not only isn't it true, irritation, your skin loves hiding irritation. In fact, it does such a brilliant job of it that UVA damage from the sun, which is irritating beyond irritating –
00:55:30 It actually destroys DNA, mutates DNA, breaks down collagen. It is insidious. It silently comes through windows and you don't know it. So, irritation can be happening under your skin and you don't…your skin keeps it a secret on top. So, things like alcohol and lavender extract and bergamot and [unintelligible] and cinnamon and menthol and peppermint and eucalyptus and on and one.
00:55:59 Might not show up on the surface, but histologically, that means underneath the skin, collagen is breaking down. DNA isn't very happy. The skin barrier is being compromised. That means sun damage is worse. The skins' ability to heal is compromised. So, that is a very long explanation to say, even when you don't see irritation, irritation, inflammation that ages skin and makes skin unhealthy is happening whether you see it on the surface or not.
Nadia: Okay, so does the same thing apply with your face as your scalp? See I always thought rosemary and sage were good essential oils for hair growth but then I read from you that it is really irritating of course, that has been in medical journals as well. So, is it the same thing that applies?
Paula Begoun: Well, I haven't heard about those ingredients being good for hair growth, so I can't comment.
00:57:04 And I am skeptical that they are because I can't imagine how they would stimulate hair growth, especially given the research about minoxidil, the active ingredient in Rogaine, but there is over-the-counter minoxidil. Although I have to tell you, this is a big aside. So, Bryan and Desiree, I haven't told you this. So, I was at my ophthalmologist and they had a special on bimatoprost which is the active ingredient in Latisse, the lash growing product.
00:57:33: And I was…because I have been…I'm 57 years old and my hair is receding a little bit and I have been using minoxidil for a long time and it works well but I noticed that I have a new patch that I haven't had before and it freaked me out. And I don't see the minoxidil helping. And so I asked my ophthalmologist, well if bimatoprost/Latisse works for the eyelashes, I can't think of a physiological reason why it wouldn't work on the scalp. Hair grows the same from the eyelash as it does..
00:58:02 So, I started using it on my scalp last week. So, she said, "I know they are doing research looking at that." So, I will let you know if I grow hair there. But nonetheless, back to the rosemary and…
Desiree Stordahl: Paula, you just have a minute left, so you have to answer quick.
Paula Begoun: Oh, the answer is it doesn't help growing. It is irritating. Irritating is bad. it is not as bad for the scalp as it is for other parts. Nadia, thank you for calling. We will send you a whole bunch of products.
Nadia: Okay, thank you so much. Thank you, Paula.
Paula Begoun: Take care. Desiree, make sure you get Nadia's email address. This was great. I love everybody out there. God, you make me love my job.
So, next week on the 17th, keeping you beautifully informed but it won't be live because Bryan is getting married, I'm flying back from…where am I flying back from…Thailand. I'm in Thailand.
Bryan Barron: From paradise. You can say it.
Paula Begoun: From paradise. But I am going to be at Bryan's wedding, which I cannot tell everyone how thrilled I am. I am so happy for him. On the 24th, we are going to talk about real ways to get rid of red marks from breakouts. It is going to t be about blemishes and healing your skin. On the 31st is going to be about hair color. It is going to be about having gorgeous hair color. What to do and what not to do.
00:59:32 It is a show you need to listen to. 80% of you are dying your hair and about 79% of you are screwing it up. I'm going to help you not do that anymore. So, I am Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop. At least I think I still am. This was a great show; what a wonderful show. I'm so excited. Keeping you beautifully informed on BlogTalkRadio but also on and with Desiree Stordahl, my assistant and producer, and Bryan Barron who is about to get married. Have a beautiful week everybody. Until next time, take care.
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