6 New Ways to Do Your Makeup Even Better

Airdate: 6/3/11

You won't find makeup advice like this anywhere else! Check out six surprisingly easy steps to change the way you do your makeup.

Paula Begoun: Hello, I'm Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, keeping you Beautifully Informed, live on Thursdays, often in Seattle, sometimes from other parts of the world at different times. In fact, I'm leaving to Europe on – nope, next week. Gosh, you know something, where am I in the world. Never mind. Forget that last part.
00:00:28 I'm just Paula Begoun here in Seattle being the Cosmetics Cop, keeping you beautifully informed. I don't leave till the eleventh. This weekend is the, what, is the –
Bryan Barron: We are doing the Race for the Cure.
Paula Begoun: Oh, the Race for the Cure. Susan B. Komen Race for the Cure is an annual event here in Seattle and Paula's Choice, the part of my business that represents my products, Paula's Choice, goes every year, our group. And we walk, some of us run.
00:01:03 Not me, but some of us do. And donate money to the Susan B. Komen to find a cure for breast cancer. And I walk for my sister, Avis, who is a 14-year survivor of breast cancer and many people in our company walk unfortunately for someone they know who has either not won the struggle with breast cancer or actually thankfully there are a lot of us here that have survivors, people who are still making it despite the diagnosis.
00:01:42 So yes, we are walking on Sunday. I do know what date it is. But I am glad to be here this Thursday because we've got a lot to talk about. It's a busy day, this hour we have together, with Desiree Stordahl, my assistant and producer. Hi, Desiree.
Desiree Stordahl: Hello. We are doing a show about makeup. I can barely contain myself.
Paula Begoun: You know, we will get to the –
00:02:05 Actually, I know we are talking about makeup and it just figures: I put on way too much concealer and I am not going to talk about that right now because I will talk about it when we get to the makeup tips. I hate when I touch up concealer and get it wrong because that is the whole thing about touching up makeup that we will get to because it is so easy to touch up makeup and overdo it as opposed to make it look soft. We will get to that.
00:02:30 There are a few things I want to talk about first. Just an interesting little note because it is so hard to find good acne products because most acne products, actually, I don't know, very few acne products don't – they all include irritating ingredients – alcohol, menthol, peppermint – all of that makes acne worse. Hands-down makes acne worse. Irritation is bad. Makes red marks harder to heal.
00:03:00 Makes pimples, triggers oil production, makes pimples worse. Oh my God! So Clean & Clear which we have actually recommended because of their Persa-Gel 5 which is a 5% benzoyl peroxide product and is actually, was actually very, very good. They have discontinued it and now they only have their Persa-Gel 10, their 10% benzoyl peroxide product.
00:03:25 Now we might have been a little off on how long ago they discontinued their Persa-Gel 5, but what is so disappointing about that is research has shown that if you go much over a 5% concentration of benzoyl peroxide you actually get diminished results benefits because the risk of irritation. So, the research has shown that if you can't tolerate a 5%, not tolerate, but if it is not working for you, a 5% concentration of benzoyl peroxide, then you have to consider options from a dermatologist which usually take a lower strength of benzoyl peroxide and put it with an antibiotic which is great for particularly for more severe types of acne.
00:04:10 But what a shame they discontinued – they discontinued the wrong one. But you know we were talking for Paula's Choice for my Clear products, we have a regular strength which is a 2.5% benzoyl peroxide product, and 5% benzoyl peroxide product that we call extra strength. And we sell far more of the extra strength than we do the regular strength.
00:04:33 And I suspect why is because women see "extra strength" and go, "Oh, more is better, strong, yes, let's kill that pimple!" So it is actually better for skin at the lower – you need to start with the lower strength. See if it works for you and then move up. If it doesn't, if the 5% doesn't work then we strongly recommend not doing a 10% but rather seeing a dermatologist and getting one of the beautiful new formulas of benzoyl peroxide, lower strength benzoyl peroxide with an antibiotic.
00:05:05 But speaking of overdoing, so the Cosmetics Cop team has been on – Bryan, I forgot to say Bryan Barron. Bryan?
Bryan Barron: Yes, hi, I'm here.
Paula Begoun: I forgot.
Bryan Barron: I chimed in earlier about the Race for the Cure, so that was my intro.
Paula Begoun: But it was Bryan. Of all people. Bryan, hi.
Bryan Barron: Hi.
Paula Begoun: Bryan is the co-author and researcher, main researcher for the Cosmetics Cop team and for our books and for our website, Beautypedia, and CosmeticsCop.com.
00:05:40 And, the Cosmetics Cop team, and Bryan has been heading this up, has been on the search to review, really in a different way than we review other skincare products, the new onslaught of cleansing brushes on the market that I think are going to go the wayside.
00:05:59 I don't think these are going to last long. It started with Clarisonic; most people know about Clarisonic – the $200 rotary cleansing brush. And we have looked at, Olay has a rotary cleansing brush in the Pro-X line. I don't know why they stuck it in their Pro-X line, it's not very "Pro." In fact, it's one of the shabbier…I mean it works, but it is just a small brush head, weak – I don't know what did it cost them $0.05 to make it? Just not very Pro-anything.
00:06:30 It's supposed to look like a prescription item. It doesn't.
Bryan Barron: So just to break in here real quick. For our listeners who have been, I know in past shows we have actually spoken rather effusively about the Pro-X brush and there has been a bit of an about-face, particularly from Paula who has been using the brush, I think, more than the rest of us.
  And so she has come to a different set of conclusions after using this brush consistently for several weeks.
Paula Begoun: Yes. Yes. This is why I don't like reviewing skincare products by my own personal experience.
00:07:06 Because, personal experience gets mixed up with facts. In other words, let's say I like cigarette smoking. I thought cigarette smoking relaxed me, I thought it felt great. Or I like tanning, and I sat and said, oh tanning, sitting in the sun, I love the heat. But research makes it abundantly clear that tanning is cancer causing.
00:07:34 Most of the wrinkles and aging you see on your face isn't about aging but it is about sun damage. And smoking, we don't even need to go into what a killer smoking is. So just talking about your opinion and your personal experience doesn't really tell you the facts about skin. So we avoid personal opinion because it can be so misleading. You can say a product caused a reaction and it made your eye swell, but you could be allergic to something that the rest of the world isn't.
00:08:04 So personal experience, I don't like using. And here is the reason why: so my experience in the beginning with the Olay brush – by the way, I have always, for years and years and years used one of water soluble cleansers. For years I have been using my Skin Balancing cleanser with a soft washcloth. Some amount, a very gentle amount, cleaning the skin with a little bit of manual exfoliation, manual cleansing which is what these brushes and a soft washcloth do, or a scrub –
00:08:38 I don't like scrubs, they tear into skin. Get off all the last traces of makeup. You don't want to have makeup on your face, that causes problems, swelling, irritation, clogged pores, it irritates the eye area. You need to get all of your makeup off. And some of it, that is why these brushes came about. When I started using the Olay brush, it was definitely gentler than the Clarisonic, that was for sure.
00:09:02 And of course with all of the research I've done, I know irritation is bad for skin. So I thought, oh, this is more gentle. And, it did, it really did get off all of my makeup. And I ignored the fact that it was harsher, not as gentle, as my soft washcloth. But I thought, I'm being more thorough because I was taking more time, and also when it takes more time it is better, it is getting off all of my makeup.
00:09:31 And I ignored the fact, and this is what I used to do as a kid. I ignored the fact that I actually thought it wasn't as gentle on my skin as a washcloth, but oh, I'm getting all of my makeup off. And then it dawned on me that this is not a good thing. I know the research says if you feel irritation, you don't always feel irritation, but for sure when you do, because you don't feel sun damage coming through windows and stuff.
00:10:01 So we know skin can be irritated and inflamed and you don't necessarily notice it. But when you do, that is a particularly good reason to stop. And I didn't. I didn't. And some of it is that what I was doing that I don't do with my soft washcloth is I was being more thorough. I was going layer after layer and going back over. I was over-cleaning. And Bryan, you said you were doing – when you were testing some of these you were doing the exact same thing.
Bryan Barron: Yeah.
00:10:32 In hindsight it was just so obvious because I realized that my face was feeling dry and tight after I used these cleansing devices, with my regular cleanser, with by itself never makes my skin feel that way. And instead of thinking it was the product, I just thought, well, maybe I am using it too aggressively or maybe – I don't know, I really wasn't thinking of what –
Paula Begoun: Right.
00:11:03 We were doing what a lot of women do. And that is why we do our reviews the way we do. Now I am still on the hunt and I'm still going to share my experiences because here is what we are doing: it turns out Clarisonic has a sensitive head brush. Now, everyone has sensitive skin in the whole world because we all react to irritation and inflammation; inflammation is what aging the entire body and you don't necessarily feel it.
00:11:34 You don't necessarily feel it on the skin. You should always treat your skin as if you have super sensitive skin because you have it whether you know it or not. So why they don't sell it with a sensitive skin head, because obviously people have complained, and now you can get a sensitive skin head and exchange it for the one you thought tore up your face from Clarisonic. That's actually why I stopped using the Clarisonic in my testing because it was just too rough.
00:12:02 So we are getting the sensitive head one in and I will give it a try. I tested one, and again, this isn't scientific by any means, very different from how we do our reviews, but I tested the Neutrosonic and I used their sensitive brush, and boy, I actually can't tell a difference between their regular brush head and the sensitive brush head. It was too harsh.
00:12:27 And they sell their kit with a scrub that you are supposed to use – this is like using sandpaper with another layer of sandpaper. Don't do it. So, it's too rough. It's got to be soft. It's got to be gentle. Irritating the skin causes collagen to break down, causes inflammation, hurts the skin's healing process. It's a problem.
  So, I will keep you updated on our search. I still actually think that the Olay version if you don't overdo it, is probably one of the better and obviously more reasonably priced, it's what, $20, $21, $25 or something.
00:13:04 In comparison to the $200 or $150 for the Neutrosonic and the Clarisonic. So, we are going to, let's talk makeup. I'm done scrubbing my skin. Because Desiree wants this show. She wants to know –
Desiree Stordahl: I love the makeup tips.
Paula Begoun: Actually, you had a great – so you said, so Paula, help me find – I can't believe you haven't asked me this before. How to pick out a great new lipstick color.
00:13:34 I didn't know you had a problem picking out lipstick color.
Desiree Stordahl: I can never find just the right color. I don't' know what it is, but I just haven't found it. So are there any tips?
Paula Begoun: I know exactly – you know, it's so funny. Now this is from, I'm fairly certain this is still true. I mean I haven't been a professional makeup artist in years, and years and years. But what I always found is women would come in where I was working as a makeup artist and they would say, I want a new lipstick color.
00:14:02 And I would show them a series of new lipstick colors, and they hated all of them. And what did they do? They bought the color that looked a lot like the color they came in with. It's because of fear. They want what they know. It's like changing your hairstyle radically. Women don't want surprises. They don't want to show up and look way too different. It's fear.
00:14:26 So it's not because – it's just like, if I said to you, how do you pick out the right color clothing, and you look in your closet and go, oh look, lots of different colors of clothing. Because you look good in a lot of different colors and you look good in a lot of different lipstick colors. The issue is to not be afraid of change. Just don't do dark. If you stay soft and you stay bright and you don't do Goth – no dark mauves and purples.
00:14:59 I know they still some of that around different, but just forget those. They look – they are ugly colors. But, stay with the ones you see in the fashion magazines on the covers, those are the pretty colors. Try those. But if you are afraid you will never find the right color, you will just keep going back to the color you always use. Right? So no fear. Give something else a shoot.
Desiree Stordahl: Now what about with reds? Are there any trick to reds?
Paula Begoun: Well that is the scariest of all colors.
Desiree Stordahl: It is.
Paula Begoun: Scariest of all colors because it is so intense.
00:15:35 No matter, unless – even if you have darker skin tones, red pops off the face like no other color. It's, again, it's just fear. If you go too dark it can make lips look smaller and dry and cracked. You want to stay soft and bright and if you can handle premiere lipstick, the creamier the better. Too creamy, that's just going to bleed all over the place.
00:16:01 You've got to just not be afraid and don't go – usually too dark is a bigger problem but then too bright you go, "Oh, my lips, they look too much. Too big." Just go for it, give it a try. Jump in.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay.
Paula Begoun: And so next time I see you I want to see a different lipstick. If I didn't know you – because I do kind of notice you do wear the same one, but I just left that alone. People don't appreciate how much I don't say. They think I say everything and they don't appreciate how much I don't say.
00:16:32 So, speaking of lipstick, be careful of lipstick in the corners of your mouth. Stop your lipstick short of the corners of your mouth, especially if you are over the age of 40, 45, when the corners of the lips start turning down. Lipstick will congregate in the corners of your mouth and look icky and disgusting. Don't put lipstick there! And when you touch up your lipstick make sure you wipe the corners of your mouth away. Some lipstick does move into a corner that has a wrinkle.
00:17:03 Put a little foundation over it with a brush, touch it up, because when it is there it will just start making your face look like you are drooling down the corner of your mouth. Don't' do that. Don't be a afraid of a new color. Be afraid of lipstick moving into the corners of your mouth.
  Number one, use a magnifying mirror when you apply your makeup, use a magnifying mirror. It is my best secret. Nobody talks about it. I mean they sell it. You see when you are in the drugstore and you go by the little accessories section, they always have that little 10 times magnifying mirror or five times magnifying mirror.
00:17:38 I actually do recommend, well some of it because I do need reading glasses so I don't see detail when it is small, but I do use that obnoxious little 10 times. And it is obnoxious. It is a terrible utensil. It's a terrible…I mean too old to use, but to see mistakes, to see little powder drippy things that fell onto your cheek or from your eye shadow or flaky blush or choppy places on your face where you forgot foundation, that scary little magnifying mirror makes a huge difference.
00:18:16 Just don't be ultra critical about it. Don't look at nose hairs and all other kinds of obnoxious, disgusting things that will jump out at you. Your pores will look like sewers. Ignore those. You are literally just using it to check to make sure your makeup looks wonderful. It's scary but essential.
00:18:35 Foundation. Okay, everybody knows – blend, blend and blend again. But here is one of the things that a lot of us forget to do is be sure to go over your jaw line that one extra time. Don't ever put – makeup on necks is always a problem. First of all it is messy. You get it on your clothes and your laundry bills go up. But you also don't want that line of demarcation that is at the jaw. So go over your jaw line one more time.
00:19:04 Also check, and this is a good thing to use the mirror for, is in the folds of your nose, along the corners, you can get gunked up makeup. You don't want that. You want to blend that out but you won't probably see it without a magnifying mirror. So watch out for foundation. Blend, blend, and blend again, particularly at the jaw line and the corner of the nose.
  You also, often I see women all the time with foundation that they have missed the corner of their nose. It just looks choppy and uneven, especially in the area where most women have –
00:19:32 A lot of women have open pores. You want your foundation nice and even over that area.
  Here is a big one. This is one of my favorite pet peeves is don't do parts of your makeup that you don't have time for. When it comes to makeup and you are in a hurry, less is more when you don't have the time to apply it right.
00:19:59 So I will never forget it. And this was the days when I was a professional makeup artist and I was walking around the park with a friend after work and she said to me, "So how does my makeup look?" And I said, well, you know. "Be honest," she said. Women never really want me to be honest. But she said, "Be honest."
  I said, okay, I'll be honest. So I said, you know your blush is this, and your pencil is smearing, you have dark circles. I gave her a critique. And she said, "Well I didn't have time to get it on right."
00:20:33 I said, well then don't do it. If you didn't have time to get it on right, why apply something that looks not good, that looks bad. I don't think we walked around the park for a couple of weeks after that. But the truth is, the truth is, less makeup is okay.
  You know I remember we did a show awhile back when a woman asked, she was surprised that for daytime it takes me just a few minutes to do my makeup because I don't wear eye shadow.
00:21:07 I don't wear eye liner. For regular daytime when I am not doing TV or professional appearances and lectures and stuff, I just wear foundation, concealer, blush, I put stuff on my brow, mascara and lipstick. Oh, and pressed powder with sunscreen. That's pretty much what I do.
00:21:31 And it takes more than five minutes and I do check it with the magnifying mirror and I check it in daylight, and we will get to that in a second. Because I don't have time every day to get my eye shadows on right, to do what it takes to check and get the eye liner on perfectly. If you don't have time, don't settle for a bad looking makeup. You just look messy. It's like leaving the house with your blouse hanging off your arm.
00:21:59 You haven't zipped up your pants. Because you know, "Well I just didn't have time to get dressed." You get dressed. You zip it up. Do the parts of your makeup you can get done right. If not, don't do it. Don't do it. Because it doesn't look good.
  Check your makeup in daylight. Even during the winter when it is dark outside when you leave the house, as soon as it gets light, recheck your makeup and touch up mistakes. You leave the house, I mean how many times, I mean I live in Seattle so it is dark most of the year, between October and what is it, till just recently.
Bryan Barron: End of May.
Paula Begoun: I was just going to say –
00:22:43 We didn't really see the sun. So you leave the house and if you haven't really gotten daylight on your face, and then I check my makeup in daylight and I go, oh, darn. Geez! Who let me leave the house like that?
00:22:58 Well, it was dark when I left so who saw? So, you've got to recheck your makeup in the daylight and touchup mistakes And I'm going to talk about how to touchup mistakes because that is a big deal as I just put on my concealer and did it wrong.
  So here's one of the ways most of us touch up mistakes is we use our fingers. And makeup just doesn't do well when blending it with your fingers. The way the fingers are with the moisture, with the way they drag, they make things choppy.
00:23:33 I love when I see women trying to smooth out their blush when they put on too much by rubbing their hands over it. And I watch. I watch them doing it. You know I'm in the bathroom and they are touching up their makeup. I can't avoid it. And as they are wiping their hand over it they are making it worse. They are making it choppy. Because there is no way fingers can blend foundation. You either need the makeup sponge you use during the day that has a little soft foundation left behind on it. You need a brush maybe with a little powder to soften.
00:24:04 Use your pressed powder with a big soft brush to soften blush that has gotten overdone or become hot from the oil and the sweat during the day. Hot meaning that sometimes the color gets more intense. The pigments pick up the oil in sweat and then literally become darker on your face. That can happen for some blush colors and then you want to blend that down with a soft powder, your pressed powder and a soft brush.
00:24:31 Use that makeup sponge. I'm telling you, don't use your fingers. And then what I did because I was in a hurry, I can't believe this, I put on my concealer with my fingers. And sure enough, you can't blend it out, especially for the kind of concealer I use. I use a drier concealer to keep it from moving into the lines around my eyes. But because it has less movement it is also harder to blend. I can't believe I did that. I know better. I've got the brush sitting right there.
00:25:00 So I had to go and put the little foundation over it to buff it out and then the concealer again. And I'm working to not get it be too thick and all I had to do in the beginning was use a brush which is absolutely the best way. You need a defining brush for around the eye. Our wedge brush is brilliant for the corner of the eye area. I mean it works for an eye shadow, too, but if you are using it for concealer you only want to use it for concealer.
00:25:29 You can't double use a foundation brush or a concealer brush. By the way, concealer, names of brushes are irrelevant. You want to use them for the shape. The shape of the brush fits the job. So in this case the wedge brush can be used for an eye liner, or can be used as I am using it for a concealer. But you have to get two of them. You don't want to mix them up because then you will start putting eye shadow around the eye and look really bad.
00:25:59 So, don't use your fingers. Don't, don't, don't! Use your makeup sponge to blend out your blush. If it is choppy, or too much or hard edges, and you can always use a soft powder brush with your pressed powder to blend out too heavy.
  Before you put more powder on, and this is another one I forget. Even as I am saying this I am thinking, I didn't do that just now when I touched up my makeup. You want to blot – I need to do these shows for myself because then I start doing the right thing.
00:26:33 So I didn't blot up the excess oil before I applied the powder. Because if you don't blot up excess oil or the sheen that comes up during the day, even when you have normal-to-dry skin. If you don't blot up the excess oil before you put powder on to touch up your makeup it goes on too heavy because the powder grabs the oil. Don't do that. Dab it down with oil blotting papers. And if you don't have any oil blotting papers just really gently blotting with a Kleenex.
00:27:04 That will do it, too. And then touch up your powder so you don't get too much powder on when you are touching up your makeup.
  What else is there? Concealer, concealer, concealer. So, when you are applying your concealer, because most of us like using a moisturizer around our eyes. The eye tends to be drier.
00:27:27 A well formulated moisturizer around the eye can make a difference. And then your concealer, even when it is a dry finish concealer still has movement. It can move – if you have lines around the eye it can move it, or folds, it moves into the lines around the eye. Hard to make it stop doing that. The easiest way to make it stop doing that is apply it as you always apply it, but then again, use that scary magnifying mirror, take an eye shadow brush, or the wedge brush I was just talking about, and put it in, take a little bit of your pressed powder if it doesn't have sunscreen, because when it has titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as the sunscreen actives, it can make it too slippery. So you want a pressed powder that doesn't contain sunscreens.
00:28:12 I just use my MAC eye shadow, kind of a color that matches my concealer. And then I go, just a very little bit. Oh my gosh, so little. And I just go against the grain, brushing against the line. But a little into the line to pick up and apply the powder and move the excess off the skin.
00:28:36 It works great, you just have to be careful because if you overdo the powder it will just look thick and heavy. Bryan, you had the best idea about eyebrows. This was great. And then we need to, oh my gosh, we need to take some questions. Bryan, we talked about eyebrows. No "L" or "V" shaped eyebrows or an upside down checkmark eyebrow. None of that works.
00:29:07 So if you are looking at your eyebrow and you see a letter, you see a checkmark of any kind, you have done your eyebrows wrong. An "L" shaped eyebrow in particular is where you get this thick part right next to the nose that is long and wide and then all of a sudden it jumps up and goes straight out along the entire eye length. That just is wrong.
00:29:35 One of my favorite ways to suggest getting your eyebrow right, if there is anything fashion magazines do is the cover of the magazines and the celebrities, celebrities like Charlize Theron and Cameron Diaz and Julia Roberts and some of the younger celebrities whose names I don't know that aren't dressed outrageously but they are dressed for style and elegance –
00:30:02 Look at the way they do their eyebrows because they almost always get it right. So, if it looks like a letter, "L" or "V," that sharp, arched brow that just is bizarre. It looks like a "W." I have seen some strange W's out there on brows, or an upside down checkmark like Bryan mentioned, that is a problem. And Bryan suggests. Actually, Bryan, why don't you – I'm speaking for you. Bryan, why don't you explain how you like recommend women try doing their brows?
Bryan Barron: So one of the things I learned earlier on when I was basically an apprentice makeup artist, back when I worked at The Body Shop –
00:30:43 was that when you are filling in your brow with a brow powder, which is one of the best ways to go because it is a softer look, it is easy to get them in between the brow hairs themselves. But rather than the natural inclination to start at the beginning of your brow that is closest to the nose, start where your arch is and fill in and define that area first.
00:31:07 That's the high point of your brow. That is where you want the definition so you start your color there, softly blend out toward the end of your brow near your temple, and then with the residual powder left on your brush, you don't need to double dip, then go over the front part of your brow closer to your nose.
00:31:26 It's a full-proof, quick way to make sure that you are not applying too much brow color towards your nose which automatically creates a heavy, some would say angry looking brow.
Paula Begoun: Right. And some of it is that I think speaking of those "L" and "V" shaped brows and checkmark brows that you were talking about, Bryan, I think one of the reasons women make that mistake is I think the idea of the word arch is confusing.
00:31:58 Because there are arches and then there's arches. And basically when you are talking about an arch, it really is a very subtle transition across the eye. And, you know, brows make a huge difference in the appearance of the face. Where was I? Was it at the restaurant last night? I was out at a restaurant last night and this guy came in, and I swear, I have never seen eyebrows – I thought at first that he was wearing a Groucho Marx nose and eyebrows.
00:32:34 I have never seen such, almost wanted to go, can I tweeze those for you? Oh my God. And I was thinking, you know, he would have been a really good looking man but all I can do is look at his eyebrows. They look like they were two animals running around on his face. Oh my God! Now, obviously I don't think any woman in the world would let herself run around with that, but whatever you do to your brow, it is a defining statement on your face –
00:33:04 Almost as, more significant than just about anything else. We were talking about walking for the cure for breast cancer for the Susan B. Komen walk this Sunday. One of the more tragic things that women have to deal with in going through the changes for their body and skin when going through chemotherapy is they lose their eyebrows.
00:33:33 And, you know, while your hair you can wear wigs and interesting bandanas and stuff, there is nothing. All of a sudden not having that defining statement on your face is a very big deal. By the way, you know Bryan you mentioned brow powder. I used that personally for years and then I started using our brow filler.
00:34:00 And it's an interesting technique our new brow filler. Because I used our brow hair tint and our brow powder, well it was an eye shadow, for years. And I find that – it took me awhile to get the hang of it. So have you used our brow filler? Do you find that in comparison to powder you are getting good results with that?
Bryan Barron: The brow lipstick?
Paula Begoun: I'm sorry, the brow lipstick, right.
00:34:30 I forget, go on.
Bryan Barron: I did. Yes, when I was doing makeup for a wedding not too long ago I used that. And you know, I was a bit inexperienced with it at the time and I actually overdid it and then had to correct it.
Paula Begoun: It's a learning curve.
Bryan Barron: Yeah, in that sense I have to say I am a creature of habit and went right back to using brow powder.
Paula Begoun: Well I did, too, and then I just thought, you know, it just – and then I think it was Claudia, I think it was Claudio who made me send her 10 brow lipsticks.
00:35:05 She just loved it. And when I saw her I thought, I've got to get the hang of this. Surely I can. And it did – it was a learning curve. Okay, I've got to stop talking. We need to take calls. So those are our best makeup tips you are not going to hear anywhere else. Desiree, let's take our first caller.
Desiree Stordahl: Our first caller, and forgive me if I pronounce this wrong, but it is Kiran from South Carolina.
Paula Begoun: Is it Kiran? Kiran are you there?
Kiran: Yes, I am. Good evening.
Paula Begoun: So is it Kiran, do we have your name right?
Kiran: Yes, it is Kiran. K-I-R-A-N. It's an Indian name.
Paula Begoun: Oh beautiful.
00:35:41 What can I do for you, Kiran?
Kiran: First off I want to say I am a very, very big fan of your Resist line. I have to say I do love it very much.
Paula Begoun: Well, I absolutely love hearing that. So thank you very much, Kiran, that's great.
Kiran: Thank you. And I have to say I have tried like at least three or four times to get on your show, but I am so excited.
00:36:03 I mean my heart is kind of going too fast. So if you can hear it, I'm sorry.
Paula Begoun: Well I'm glad. It's my pleasure. And we will send you some more Resist products and stock you up. And continue taking good care of your skin. What can I do for your, Kiran?
Kiran: My question is that I can never get how to apply bronzer. It always looks kind of patchy and muddy on my face. I don't know if there is some trick or a special brush.
Paula Begoun: Wait, Kiran, what color – you said Indian obviously.
Kiran: Yes, I'm Indian.
00:36:38 I'm fair to medium, olive skin tone.
Paula Begoun: So why would you want to wear bronzer if you already have brown skin?
Kiran: Technically, even by Indian standards I am not brown, brown. But I just like the look of bronzer when I see it on other people's skin. Does that make sense?
Paula Begoun: Do you like it on Indian skin tones or whiter –
Kiran: Yes.
Paula Begoun: Really?
00:37:03 Okay, so having been to India I don't know that I noticed women wearing bronzers, but who knows, I might have missed that.
Kiran: Yes, it's a big thing in Indian weddings.
Paula Begoun: Oh, okay, I missed it. So here's my suggestion. The trick with bronzers is to not apply it all over. And start out trying to experiment with the bronzing powders that have a very sheer, translucent application.
00:37:38 And start by framing the face with it, keep it away from the center of the face, don't put it over the nose, don't put it over the folds by the mouth, don't put it on the chin. Keep it at the back areas of the face, along the hair line, along the temple, underneath the blush, slightly along the ear area, and Bryan can you recommend a really?
00:38:02 We are going to send you our Healthy Finish pressed powder in our healthy tan shade and have you try that, but aside from my products, Bryan, I'm trying to think and I have no memory, whose bronzing powder would you say has the sheerest glow to it, kind of fool-proof. That sheer gorgeous glow?
Bryan Barron: There's quite a few of them out there.
00:38:31 Off the top of my head I could name some brands like Urban Decay, MAC's mineralized powders. You could look at those in the bronzed tones. But really the reigning bronzer queen is none other than Desiree.
Desiree Stordahl: Well I use our Healthy Finish pressed powder in healthy tan. That is my go to.
Paula Begoun: But you know what it is, we are going to send you that. While I do love my Healthy Tan from Paula's Choice, because of your Indian/olive skin tone, I do think, and I can't believe I am actually uttering these words.
00:39:07 I do think it needs to have shine. Not glitter shine. But more like a glow. Browner skin tones – not glitter. Not glitter, Kiran.
Bryan Barron: So, Kiran, when you are shopping for bronzers at the drugstore or at the department store, if you see visible particles of shine in the powder, that's too shiny.
Kiran: Okay.
Bryan Barron: You want it to be a really subtle glow.
Kiran: A lot of the bronzers, either they tend to be too matte, or they have kind of literally chunky glitter particles –
00:39:42 And I guess that's what makes them kind of off, you know.
Paula Begoun: And it's also how you apply it. You need really good brushes.
Kiran: That's what I was going to ask you. Does it have to be a blush brush or a regular powder brush? Is there something –
Paula Begoun: It actually depends on the size of your face.
00:40:03 On my face if I don't use a powder brush with something like a bronzer like you are talking about, I'm going to take an hour to get it on. I have a very large-sized face.
Kiran: Mine is a smaller face.
Paula Begoun: So I'm going to send you our powder brush and our blush brush and you can experiment to see which one works better for you. But, yes, it needs to be a really great brush.
00:40:25 So let me just mention the reason I am not recommending one of those liquidy kind of bronzers, I think those are very difficult to use and then apply makeup or blush or figure that out. So that is why I am strongly recommending you try a luminescent pressed powder. And Kiran I will be curious for you to let Desiree know how our Healthy Tan works for you. I'm curious if you think it –
Kiran: I most definitely will. I most definitely will.
Paula Begoun: All right, Kiran thank you so much for your call. Take care.
Kiran: Thank you. And all the best to you. Thank you.
Paula Begoun: You, too. Bye-bye.
00:41:00 Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: Our next caller is Colleen from Washington.
Paula Begoun: Colleen, hi Colleen.
Colleen: Hi, Paula. I'm going to try not to super fan you.
Paula Begoun: Oh, no, no, wait, are you kidding? Give me at least two seconds of super fan. What?
Colleen: I'm a huge fan. I've read like most of your books, I have several of them. I buy your products. So I'm really excited to talk to you.
Paula Begoun: Oh, I love being super-fanned. Thank you. Colleen, what can I do for you?
Colleen: So I have very dry skin.
00:41:35 And I have peach fuzz on my face. And I think I need more coverage than just a tinted moisturizer. But when I have gone to the cosmetic counters and had them either put on a liquid foundation or a powder foundation, the two problems, it sticks to the peach fuzz on my face which is not super attractive.
Paula Begoun: Right, exactly.
Colleen: And it is too dry.
00:42:00 So I don't know what to put on.
Paula Begoun: So give me a sense of which liquid, like which foundation, have you used any foundation that you liked?
Colleen: No. I like the liquid, or I like the tinted moisturizer. I have used Laura Mercier. But even under that I have to put on a lotion. But I have gone to Clinique, MAC, Philosophy, and have had either a powder, [unintelligible] Kai, went to Barney's even to try.
00:42:33 And it all just sticks in the peach fuzz. And I do get my brows done and have asked a professional person if it needs to be taken care of. And she said, no, no.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, don't. Because with peach fuzz even though it feels soft and lovely, you start ripping it off with wax or something and it will be – I mean you will grow back, it will be rough. And laser hair removal doesn't work with white hair. It is only targeted, and you know that, it is only targeted to darker hair color.
Colleen: Right, you have to have the contrast.
Paula Begoun: So, let's see. I actually hate what I am about to say.
00:43:09 I don't quite know what to tell you. Because my little ego, especially given you just beautifully super-fanned me, I just…I don't know. Have you tried a foundation brush? That wouldn't help. Never mind. I just…I don't know. You know what I am going to do? I'm going to send you one each – give me an idea of your skin color, Colleen.
Colleen: Pretty pale.
00:43:43 I'm Irish.
Paula Begoun: I'm going to send you the lightest shade of my three foundations with sunscreen that I have. And they are not tints per se, but they are lighter than most foundations. They don't have…they have light coverage.
00:44:02 And maybe light, lightly medium coverage, but mostly light coverage. But they are not tints in the traditional sense of a moisturizing tint. So I am going to give you one of each of those and I am going to send you my makeup sponges. Because my makeup sponges are very different from other makeup sponges on the market. They are thinner, they are not as thick, they don't drag on the face. And I am wondering if that is some of the problem.
00:44:28 So I'm going to give you that combination to try. As long as I am sending you that stuff I am going to send you the lightest shade of my pressed powder with sunscreen because I love doubling up on sunscreen. And give that a try. And will you do me a favor and please, please do this. I really want to know if this works for you.
Colleen: Sure.
Paula Begoun: If this was a solution. And Colleen, tell me, dry skin, are you using my dry skin products?
Colleen: I use the Resist line.
Paula Begoun: And how is that going for you?
Colleen: It's great. I love them.
Paula Begoun: Oh, I love great. We will send you another set of our Skin Recovery products, oh, the Resist products. Sorry, you said Resist.
00:45:06 And actually I am going to send you my Skin Recovery moisturizer, I would like you to give that a try, too.
Colleen: Oh, okay, great.
Paula Begoun: All right, thank you, Colleen. Good luck.
Colleen: Thank you, thank you.
Paula Begoun: All right, bye-bye, dear. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Alana from Arkansas.
Paula Begoun: Alana, hi Alana.
Alana: Hello.
Paula Begoun: Hello!
Alana: Actually I'm from Alaska.
Paula Begoun: That's okay, we like Alaska. You have no light now.
Alana: You wouldn't believe how many people confuse Arkansas and Alaska.
Paula Begoun: Which is incredibly strange.
00:45:42 It makes no sense. But having been in Alaska, the midnight sun was one of the more fascinating experiences of my life. I literally was [Mt. Denali], used to be called Mt. McKinley.
Alana: Yes, of course.
Paula Begoun: And watched the sun touch the horizon and bounce right back off of it and go up again.
Alana: Yeah, it basically goes in a circle over our head.
00:46:11 Yes.
Paula Begoun: Alana, tell me what I can do for you.
Alana: Well, first of all I am going to be just like everybody else and say what a huge fan I am of you. And want to say thank you so much because I am a self-proclaimed product junkie.
00:46:30 And before I found your information and your products I was wasting my time and money on a lot of stuff at the drugstore and the makeup counter. So thank you so much for being out there and offering your fabulous informational. You saved me. You saved me from myself.
Paula Begoun: I am getting super-fanned tonight to the max. I am having a good time. I'm having a good time. Okay, Alana, tell me what I can do for you.
Alana: Yes, I have dry skin normally.
00:47:07 And of course with the midnight sun I use a lot of sunscreen. And what I deal with is I have oily eye lids. And I really do like what eye shadow can do for my eyes, but it just doesn't ever stay on there. And I can't…I mean I found a mascara that works and doesn't run.
00:47:35 But the eye shadow, all it does is just all congregate in the crease and then gets washed away.
Paula Begoun: Are you putting moisturizer on your lid during the day when you wear makeup?
Alana: No.
Paula Begoun: All right, so you are not doing that. So when you get done cleansing your face, you put your foundation on, your concealer on, but no moisturizer on the lid or under eye.
Alana: I never put moisturizer on my lid.
00:48:05 And it's oily. I mean occasionally I will swipe it with my toner, you know, but I usually do that at night. So I try to keep it as dry as possible before I go for the eye shadows. And I just find within an hour or so it is just all congregated in the crease and the color is gone.
Paula Begoun: Right.
00:48:31 So Alana, are you putting your foundation and any of your concealer on your eye area?
Alana: I do the foundation and I use your Sheer Matte tint, the Barely There is what I use all over my face.
Paula Begoun: You use the Barely There?
Alana: Yeah.
Paula Begoun: And you use it around your eye? And then do you put the concealer over your eye area?
Alana: I don't put concealer on my lid. I may use it for underneath my eye area if need be, but I don't use it all the time.
Paula Begoun: Okay, so here is what I am going to do.
00:49:10 This is another one of those areas where it just takes experimenting. So, definitely put your foundation around your eye, especially my foundation or any foundation that contains sunscreen. So I do want you to put that around your eye.
00:49:27 I am going to send you my concealer, but there are other matte concealers out there that you consider. I happen to like my matte concealer a lot, especially for your eye area. I'm also going to send you my Shine Stopper. Now my Shine Stopper is meant for, well, obviously to absorb oil, typically around the nose and the chin when you have oily skin all over. But there is no reason to not give it a try on your eye lid. It doesn't contain any irritants.
00:49:58 It might be too absorbing for your eye area, but there's no problem with putting it there. So I am going to send you my Shine Stopper. So, what you would do is you would put the Shine Stopper on your eye and let it absorb and then you would put your foundation on. Then you would put the concealer over that. And then you would take, if you have like MAC makes great dry finish pressed eye shadows. Take their lightest beige color, not their white color, but their light being color assuming you are Caucasian, you have whiter skin?
Alana: Yeah.
00:50:36 I'm fair skinned.
Paula Begoun: Okay, take their lightest beige color and put that as the base over your eye area. So you are going to use the Shine Stopper, put your foundation on, the one with sunscreen, put my concealer on, not heavy, don't overdo any of this, over the area that gets the most oily in the crease area. Blend it out with a brush. I'm going to send you our eye shadow brush.
00:51:00 And even though it is an eye shadow brush it is what I want you to apply the concealer with and the lighter shade pressed powder. And put that pressed powder all over, but particularly in the crease area. And see how that works for you. But that combination, and it goes faster than it sounds.
Alana: Okay.
Paula Begoun: Should work pretty darn well, pretty darn well.
Alana: No, that is something that the order in which you put those together, that was something that I was wondering which order – of course the Shine Stopper first, but then I was like which way do I go from here.
00:51:36 So that's very helpful. Thank you.
Paula Begoun: I think it will work great for you. And Alana, which Paula's Choice products are you using right now?
Alana: I just started on your Resist line and I am so happy with it. I am getting up in my late 30s and it is really starting to help with all of the age spots that are starting to come out.
Paula Begoun: I am so happy.
Alana: So I am so happy that you introduced that line. I really enjoy it.
Paula Begoun: Well we are going to send you a few more of those products for you to play with.
00:52:05 And enjoy the midnight sun because unfortunately you live in Alaska and it is going away. It sucks, but it is not going to last.
Alana: The one thing about Alaska, every day is different. And the only thing that is constant is change.
Paula Begoun: And you take vitamin D during the winter, tell me you do that?
Alana: Yes, I do.
Paula Begoun: Okay, good. Thank you, Alana, thanks for calling, take care.
Alana: Thank you, Paula.
Paula Begoun: Take care, thank you.
00:52:30 So, you know, just a quick aside and then I want to get one more call in. So I just got a lot of blood work back on my annual physical check up. And I had my vitamin D levels tested for the first time, and you know, they were low. I am on – and I take vitamin D. But they were actually low. So I have increased the amount of vitamin D I take. Vitamin D is a crucial part of your health.
00:53:00 You can't get it all from the sun, even if you wanted to, not to mention sitting out in the sun, you will transfer one problem for the other because unprotected sun exposure will – wrinkles, skin cancer, all kinds of problems, health problems because you are damaging your skin. Skin is an organ of the body.
  So, vitamin D. When you get your next physical, everybody, get your vitamin D level tested. It is critical to your health. Desiree, let's get in one more caller.
Desiree Stordahl: All right, we have Jenny from Virginia.
Paula Begoun: Hi Jenny from Virginia.
Jeanne: Hi, actually my name is Jeanne, but that's okay.
Paula Begoun: We will take Jeanne.
00:53:37 Is that okay? You will talk to us anyway?
Jeanne: You know, my last name is so unpronounceable that I am so used to answering to anything at this point.
Paula Begoun: I'm the same way. I hate my last name. Okay, what can I do for you, Jeanne?
Jeanne: First of all I have to tell you that I worked, I had worked for years as a professional makeup artist for film and TV. And you have been a great help to me as a resource, but also I have passed your website and your books onto a number of actresses who all use your stuff now and really appreciate it.
00:54:10 So thank you.
Paula Begoun: I am getting, I like this term, I am getting super-fanned better than – this is great. This is a great night. Jeanne, what can I do for you?
Jeanne: Well, I'm 46 and I have always had oily skin. Over the past few years it has been better. Now I am getting that sort of perimenopausal breakout all over my face which has not been fun.
00:54:35 But I'm also drier than I used to be. So, wrinkles and zits, not awesome. But trying to find a foundation that doesn't look dry and cakey in my pores. It has a little bit of gooeyness to it. But doesn't look pre-teen shiny. You know what I'm saying?
Paula Begoun: I so know what you are saying. I so know what you are saying.
00:55:01 First of all, in terms of your skin, let's just see if we can – are you using my products or someone else's products?
Jeanne: No, I'm using your products.
Paula Begoun: And they are not helping? You are still breaking out and you are still not?
Jeanne: The breakout thing has just been in the last two, two and a half, three weeks. And it has all been along my jaw line and my neck. I have changed my hair products. I have changed my pillow cases.
Paula Begoun: Are you using the skincare products for your face on your neck?
Jeanne: Yes.
Paula Begoun: And it's still not working?
Jeanne: No.
00:55:34 But actually I have a dermatologist next week because I am getting so frustrated. I mean it has helped a bit and they actually have dried out a bit, but I'm still breaking out a lot.
Paula Begoun: The next stuff is the worst. The neck stuff is the worst.
Jeanne: It's disgusting.
Paula Begoun: So I don't have time, I would really like to spend some time helping you with what you are talking about. So I am going to ask that, I might not be able to get back to you right away, but Desiree will get in touch with you and get your email address. I think I can help you before you, or even after you see the dermatologist.
00:56:07 Let me see if I can help you. But in terms of foundation. Bryan, real quick, give her a couple of options. Bryan? Did I lose him?
Bryan Barron: Oh, no, I'm here.
Paula Begoun: Bryan is exhausted. He can't think.
Bryan Barron: It has been a long way. Even though it is a short week. I'm a fan of Clinique's Acne Solutions Liquid makeup. And you can check out some of our other options on Beautypedia. But that's a fairly good one.
00:56:35 You want a liquid foundation that has a really thin texture but that doesn't contain irritating ingredients. The thicker the foundation is, it gets iffier.
Jeanne: Right.
Paula Begoun: And Bryan do you think the matte powder in her skin tone that has a little bit of sheen to it, applied not over the oily areas but over the dry areas, would give her that glow she is looking for?
Bryan Barron: Quite possibly, yes.
00:57:03 Are you referring to their, what is it, their Care Blend pressed powder?
Paula Begoun: Something like that that has that very sheer, glowy. Desiree, you just reviewed one that you recommended highly. You gave it a big happy face. Pressed powder with a little bit of sheen. Whose was that that you were nuts about?
Desiree Stordahl: I'm not recalling.
Paula Begoun: So we are like all brain dead right now.
Jeanne: Wow, you guys have been a big help to me tonight.
Paula Begoun: I know! So, wait –
Bryan Barron: She is so un-super-fanning us.
Paula Begoun: I know. So now she doesn't love me anymore. So, Jeanne, here is what we are going to do.
00:57:41 And we are going to get all of these answers to everybody. We are going to tell everybody next week which are the best luminescent pressed powders. Which are the best foundations for exactly the problem Jeanne is talking about which is a combination, true combination skin. And Jeanne we will help you out with your skincare routine. Desiree will get your email.
00:58:01 Thank you, Jeanne, I've got to run. I'm sorry. Love me anyway.
Jeanne: I will. Thank you. Bye.
Paula Begoun: Take care, Jeanne, bye-bye. Oh, it's one of those nights. So, where are we? Oh, I know where we are. So, it's almost the end of the show. And Desiree, let's give everybody our Illicit Lash mascara tonight. I meant to give everybody one of those and I didn't.
00:58:27 Next week we will be talking about real solutions for dark circles and puffy eyes. This is my favorite show. You will be surprised at the answers and you will be surprised that it isn't what you have always heard. On the 16th, Deborah Enos, we just love Deborah Enos. You have to visit her website. She is a nutritionist and a lifestyle person to help you take wonderful care of your face, your skin, your body. Anti-aging super foods for your skin and body.
00:59:03 On the 23rd, five ways to shrink your pores and get rid of blackheads really, really. Okay, great show. You've got to listen to that show. On the 30th of June, five skincare products to deal with aging skin. Solutions. Solutions. Younger skin, we guarantee it. I can't change your age, but I can change your skin.
00:59:31 And then on the 7/7, hair care secrets you need to know. We are going to keep you beautifully informed every Thursday and then of course you can listen to us archived. Come visit us at PaulasChoice.com. My team is here to help you. Desiree Stordahl, Bryan Barron and myself, Paula Begoun. Take care. See you next week.
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