6 Skin-Care Products that Make Wrinkles Worse!

Airdate: 9/15/2011

Don't miss this myth-busting show exposing skin-care products that are actually doing more harm than good! Tune in as Paula reveals the top offenders that may be lurking in your products and what you should use instead.

Paula Begoun: Hello, I'm Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, here with my Paula's Choice Research Team, Desiree Stordahl and Bryan Barron. Hi guys.
Desiree Stordahl: Hello.
Bryan Barron: Hi hi!
Paula Begoun: Hi hi! So we are here keeping you beautifully informed, again. It is Thursday evening here in Seattle, lots of different times around the world, and you can listen to us archived. You just have to go to PaulasChoice.com and click on the link, listening to the episodes that we have already done.
Desiree Stordahl: People can also listen to it on listen to it on iTunes. They can download our podcasts so they can listen to it working out, wherever, it doesn't matter.
Paula Begoun: You know one of these days you do have to get me up to the current decade and teach me how to do that.
00:00:58 But then again, there isn't many things I can learn how to do. But, really, you can download us on iTunes? No kidding. So we just added...a couple of headline things. So Paula's Choice, my product line, is now distributed in - if I have this number right I think it is 47 countries around the world. We added South Africa not too long ago and we just added the country of Slovenia.
00:01:36 And I'm not quite sure where it is, I mean I kind of know where it is, but we are translated - Paula's Choice Slovenia which is part of the European Commonwealth is now distributing our products and I am just thrilled. I'm feeling very international tonight.
Desiree Stordahl: Woo-hoo!
Paula Begoun: Plus we are going to be having a bit of a summit with our Korean and Chinese distributors for Paula's Choice. I'm feeling -
00:02:03 I'm definitely in an international frame of mind and I am also in a New York frame of mind because on Monday I am going to be leaving, going from Seattle to New York to do the Dr. Oz show. And the headline about that is that, separate from I will be talking about some of what is new in skincare for wrinkles. They love when I talk about that. But the hook is I have - none of the guests on the show, and Dr. Oz, him as well, nobody will be wearing makeup.
00:02:43 So for the first time in my - I don't know, I have been doing television, I started as a reporter back in the 80s, in the early 80s. I think my first TV episode, the first time I was on television must have been 1980 or 1979. I cannot imagine being on television without makeup. I said yes. I'm now regretting it every step of the way.
00:03:15 And I swear, if one person has even a drop of power on, I'm putting my makeup on. I am sure not going to be the only guest...if Dr. Oz has even a little bit of foundation under his eyes I am putting my makeup on. I'm not going to be the only sucker out there without makeup on. Can you believe I said yes to that? Who goes without makeup? The reason people wear makeup on television, even the guys, is because you just look ghastly.
00:03:47 I mean the lights and the...
Bryan Barron: Yeah.
Desiree Stordahl: You are such a trooper, Paula.
Paula Begoun: I am.
Bryan Barron: Did they tell you why they are pulling this stunt? Because it doesn't seem to have anything to do with the topic that you are going to be discussing.
Paula Begoun: I don't know. It's like that time I did the show a few months back where it was a slumber party and the audience and Dr. Oz and the guests were all - I wore pajamas on the set. At least I had makeup. I don't know. They sometimes do these cute little novel things that other shows don't do, I guess.
00:04:27 I don't know. I will be in my little all-together...I mean I will have clothes on but my face will be naked. I can't believe this. So that is - it is taping on Monday. I will let everybody know when it airs once I get an airdate. Ah! I can't believe it. Okay. So we are talking tonight about 6 skincare products that can make wrinkles worse.
00:04:55 And it is really astounding. But before we talk about that, let me talk about a new launch. I have to do one rant because this just is taking my breath away. Many things, as many of you know who listen on a regular basis, many things take my breath away. And not in a good way, like being punched in the solar plexus of the cosmetics industry is a new product that is launched by Lancôme that they are splashing all over ads and splashing all over with videos and the whole thing.
00:05:32 And it's called Visionnaire, but with a French accent it would be Visionnaire and this product, first of all, I don't even know where to start. Their big thing is they are saying 12 years of research and 20 international patents. But there is no information as to what that research is. They don't show you any published studies. They say 12 years of research and then there isn't one drop of research on this whole big website. They have fancy pictures and fancy videos and this huge statement - 12 years of research. And, there's no research.
00:06:11 And then it also says 20 international patents. So they have patents - what are the patents for? Patents are about as boring as toilet paper, because anybody can file a patent. It is about use. What ingredients you can use - not actually what ingredients, just what you can say about the ingredient you are using.
00:06:35 It isn't about efficacy. It is about claims, that you can hold that ingredient for that claim.
Bryan Barron: I think a lot of consumers don't realize that when it comes to patents in cosmetics, I could come up with a new "recipe" for a moisturizer and I could patent that and I don't - in order to get that patent I do not have to prove that the moisturizer does anything special. So the patent has nothing to do with whether or not the product really works. But it sounds impressive.
Paula Begoun: Right.
00:07:11 And actually Lancôme patents just about everything they do including color combinations. But so what? If you don't like that color, what difference does it make that it is patented. And the other thing about this - there are so many things. So one of the big things they say, this one was so clever; it is deceptive in just a stunning way. Their big claim out is, and this is how they state it - "discover why one out of two women tempted by a cosmetic procedure decided to postpone it."
00:07:54 And then there is a little asterisk and then down below it explains that after four weeks of consumer use, doesn't explain what the consumer was using, and then it says "consumer evaluation of women age 35 to 49 years, tempted by hyaluronic acid, laser or chemical peeling." So it never says, it never says that women, one out of two women who decided to postpone cosmetic procedures had anything to do with this product.
00:08:32 As somebody who has had cosmetic corrective procedures, I change my mind every minute. I don't want to do it, I do want to do it, oh it is too much money, oh it is too painful, oh I will do it. Women change their mind about cosmetic corrective procedures every second of the day. I mean you look at a mirror and you are thinking about it and then you change your mind. This makes it sound about using the product and then they used it and then they decided not to get the procedures, but that is not anywhere near what it is really saying because of the marketing mumbo jumbo.
00:09:09 They never actually say, "Women who use this product thought it worked so well, I decided to not see my cosmetic dermatologist." In fact, one of the disclaimers they make after saying all of this stuff, that one out of two women decided not to have a cosmetic procedure, it says the results are not equal to a medical procedure. Duh!
00:09:39 Ugh, I just...I know women are going to see this, millions and millions. I wish millions and millions of women listened to me. Millions and millions of women around the globe are going to see this and are going to think, oh, if I use this I don't have to have cosmetic corrective procedures to look young. This is going to replace it. They are not going to read the small print. This doesn't replace anything.
00:10:01 It is an ordinary product that isn't well-formulated. The fourth ingredient is alcohol. Alcohol causes free radical damage. I can't say enough what - Bryan, how expensive is this product?
Bryan Barron: This product costs $84 for 1oz.
Paula Begoun: Ugh, I hate the cosmetics industry. Okay, all right, I'm done ranting. Let's talk...oh, I could carry on. Can you believe, this what the, you know the industry does this all the time. All right.
00:10:37 Let's talk about a few more things you shouldn't do and some of the things you should do in terms of fighting wrinkles. Actually, really just in general when you think about your skin and you think about skincare, there are things the industry does on a regular basis that women fall into that if you keep doing it.
00:11:01 There is a saying my sister likes using is that if you keep doing what you have always done, don't be surprised that you always get what you have always got. And so we need to pay attention to what really is helpful for skin and not avoid that. Not ignore it and just fall into the trap of: oh my friend said this was so wonderful, I'm going to use that; I listened to some ad, some celebrity, some sales person; I was on a cruise, I was at a spa, I was at a salon.
00:11:35 And then we let go of the principles of great skincare and we waste money and we hurt our skin. And these are the major ones that women run into all the time that absolutely waste their money and hurt their skin.
00:11:56 So the first one, and this I know, I know this is boring. I so know this is boring. It even bores me. But I've got to say it because only 10% of women on a regular basis are using a sunscreen. We buy daytime moisturizers, especially we buy eye creams that don't contain sunscreen. We leave the counter and our daily skincare routine doesn't include a sunscreen. That is a sin.
00:12:30 Separate from products that are just badly formulated and we will get to that in a minute, the idea of using a daytime moisturizer or an eye cream that doesn't contain sunscreen is just silly. Don't do that. Don't leave the house without sunscreen 365 days a year. If only 10% of women are doing that on a regular basis, something is going wrong at the cosmetic counters or the salon or the spa or the infomercial. Whatever you are listening to, something is going wrong if you are not taking care of your face to prevent wrinkles, to prevent red spots from acne, to encourage healing, to have a healthy, smoother, radiant surface -
00:13:20 Is a well-formulated moisturizer for your skin type during the day that contains sunscreen. And let me just be clear, this is true for whether you have oily skin, dry skin, combination skin, Rosacea. As a rule, I know I have talked about this before, but just to be clear about choosing a moisturizer, with sunscreen/without sunscreen, you have to choose the texture based on your skin type.
00:13:51 The same great ingredients need to be in everybody's product, whether it is oily skin or dry skin, you need antioxidants and healing ingredients, skin repairing ingredients, anti-inflammatory ingredients. But the texture differs based on your skin type. So if you have normal-to-oily skin, oily combination skin, you need a gel or a lightweight liquid or a serum, a very light, liquidy serum.
00:14:21 If you have normal-to-dry skin you need a little bit of a more creamy, emollient lotion. If you have dry skin you need a very emollient, rich, creamy texture product. But all of those products, whether it is a gel or a liquid or a serum or a cream or a lotion, need to be loaded with state of the art ingredients. And that is number two.
00:14:47 Number two is outdated moisturizing formulas. Oh wait, I'm sorry, before I move on to number two, let's talk about some good bad examples of moisturizers, daytime moisturizers without sunscreens. Bryan, you put together a great list. Do you want to go over? I love it. The first one - you want to do the list because I will just start ranting.
Bryan Barron: Sure.
00:15:17 And these are just...I wanted to point out that we are not picking any one in particular company. There are many bad products. But I wanted to get a nice representation of products that are from lines that a lot of beauty consumers might think "well they must know their stuff, or they are sold in a high end department store and this is costing me a lot of money so surely somebody did their homework and created a really great product or why am I wasting my time?"
00:15:45 And it turns out with some of these examples you absolutely are wasting your time, you are wasting your money, and you are hurting your skin. So, for the daytime moisturizers, Sisley Paris Botanical Intensive Day Cream, not a single drop of sunscreen in this product. It is almost $300 for 1.7oz. And it contains irritating plant extracts that have some pretty good research showing that they end up hurting collagen production.
00:16:15 So while you are getting sun damage because it doesn't offer sunscreen, you are also putting ingredients on your skin that are potentially making wrinkles worse in that way as well.
Paula Begoun: So you know the big thing when you are the cosmetic counter or you are at a salon or a spa and you ask them, the sales person, what is the difference between a day product and a night product, it is the rare time you will hear anybody tell you that the difference is sunscreen.
00:16:45 That the daytime product has sunscreen and the nighttime product doesn't. They will tell you that it needs different ingredients because the skin repairs differently at night than it does during the day and it takes different ingredients - of course they don't tell you what those ingredients are. And when you look at the formulas there isn't a difference and there is no research showing that the skin needs different ingredients in the daytime versus the nighttime except for sunscreen.
00:17:12 See how I am, I am ranting. Okay, Bryan, I'm sorry. You had more. I'm sorry.
Bryan Barron: A couple of other examples. Clarins Vital Light Day Illuminating Anti-Aging Comfort Cream. Clarins sells several Vital Light moisturizers and they separate them just like Paula said, into the day and the night versions and then most of the day versions don't have sunscreen. They all come in jars and it is pretty much just a fancy way to give your skin shine, which isn't skincare but it has a cosmetic appeal.
00:17:41 And then Aveda's Green Science Firming Eye Cream, which costs $45 for 0.5oz. a good example of an eye cream that comes in a jar, which isn't the best for hygiene reasons and because those ingredients you are paying extra for are sensitive to light and air, but, again, for use during the daytime you are standing a good chance of making wrinkles worse because this doesn't provide any sort of sun protection or the skin around your eyes.
Paula Begoun: And then Bryan you had two great examples.
Bryan Baron: Yes. Clinique's City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector with SPF 25, $18 for 1.4oz. Gentle mineral sunscreen. It absolutely can be used around the eye. In fact the mineral sunscreens tend to do great around the eye because they are the least likely to cause any sort of a sensitized reaction, even if you get them in the eye itself which you obviously want to avoid, but just in case.
00:18:38 Also our own Paula's Choice Resist Cellular Defense Daily Moisturizer with SPF 25 as well. $24.95 for 2oz. Also mineral-based. And it has a perfect texture to use around the eyes.
Paula Begoun: Then the number two product that can make winkles worse is just getting a bad formula. Is just products that contain absolutely nothing of benefit for the skin. Forget the price. I don't care if it is a $300 product, a $10 product, a $40 product, the price is irrelevant because first of all price in the cosmetics industry has nothing to do with quality.
00:19:21 Although it does make me angrier when a $300 product is badly formulated, more so than a $10 product. But bad products for your skin are just bad products for your skin. But an outdated formula isn't necessarily bad for your skin, it is just a waste of money. It is kind of like using a typewriter when you could be using a computer. Why would you do that? I mean even financially it wouldn't make any sense. You would use a pen and paper instead of a typewriter - it is heavy, it is hard to cart around. You would use a computer.
00:19:58 So the idea of using something that is out-of-date when your skin deserves so much more, dated formularies for skincare products, particularly for moisturizers, are ones that are pretty much water and wax and some slip agent and some thickeners and really contain none of the state-of-art ingredients research over the past 20 years has shown absolutely fights wrinkles, absolutely makes skin radiant, absolutely makes skin glow. Antioxidants, state of the art exfoliants - those kinds of beautiful formularies that really make a difference on skin and an out of date moisturizer is just sad.
00:20:47 What a waste! And so, Bryan, you had two examples of out of date formularies/products that can make wrinkles worse because they don't contain anything that is helpful for skin.
Bryan Barron: They do contain some ingredients that are helpful for dry skin but nothing that approaches state of the art, nothing that is indicative of what the last 5, 10 years of research has shown us. And there has been a lot that we didn't know.
00:21:16 So classic example that is extremely popular is Clinique's Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion. On the high end, but also at the department store is Lancôme's Absolute Night Premium Bx Absolute Night Recovery Cream.
Paula Begoun: In case you didn't know it was "Absolute" they had to tell you a couple of times.
Bryan Barron: Yes, yes. And that will set you back $160 for what essentially amounts to water, silicone and wax. And a lot of fragrance.
Paula Begoun: We have been giving Lancôme a hard time tonight.
00:21:50 Just to be as fair as I can be, Lancôme, actually a light of these lines - Clarins, Dior, Sophie's, Decleor, Givenchy, Sisley, Clarins, they just don't do skincare. That just isn't their forte. Products in jars. Way too much fragrance. Way too much alcohol. What Lancôme does very, very well and absolutely should be a consideration is they really do makeup. They do mascara, they do blush, they do eye shadows, they do foundations.
00:22:30 And you don't have to buy Lancôme, Lancôme also owns Maybelline and L'Oreal and many of those formulas at Maybelline and L'Oreal are incredibly similar to the Lancôme. So I just don't want to give Lancôme too much of a hard time because they do makeup. The definitely have some stellar makeup products. Want to do some great examples, Bryan, of moisturizers that aren't outdated?
Bryan Barron: Right. One that we found, it's great for very dry skin is Caudalie Vinosource Riche Anti-Wrinkle Ultra Nourishing Cream. And you will find that brand sold at Sephora.
00:23:09 And then Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Treatment Cream. The Caudalie product is $50. The Paula's Choice option is $19.95.
Paula Begoun: And what is interesting about Caudalie because we have been reviewing them for awhile, their products have taken a turn for the better. Remember in the beginning when they came out because they were all about grapes and they didn't really have much else? And they have kind of expanded their repertoire.
Bryan Barron: They have.
00:23:36 They are still all about grapes in terms of that being the primary antioxidant, whether it is an extract or an oil, but they have rounded out several of their formulas which is wonderful. It absolutely gives consumers more options and there is a lot of good research behind grape.
Paula Begoun: Right. And some of it is, as we have said on this show before - there is never one ingredient that is THE ingredient for skin. Oh, I just had a reporter from the Daily Mail ask me about Chilean Rainforest honey and that that - I swear, she must have gotten it wrong. I haven't done the research but her question to me is that it is supposed to generate, it interacts with the skin to generate hydrogen peroxide.
00:24:26 Which basically - I mean I don't know, I am fairly certain she didn't know what she was talking about because one is I don't think there is anything you can put on the skin like honey that would generate hydrogen peroxide, but even if it did it would be bad for skin. I mean if it could do that, hydrogen peroxide causes free radical damage. It is one of the most potent free radical damage generators around. But I'm sorry, I'm going off on a track.
00:24:54 Okay, I'm going to bring up sunscreens just one more time and then that is it, but this is sunscreens that don't provide sufficient UVA protection. UVA damage from the sun or the sun's silent rays, you don't feel them - they come through windows - versus UVB rays which are the sunscreen rays that cause sunburn. Just because a product is rated with an SPF number or a +++ or whatever doesn't necessarily tell you whether or not you are really getting great UVA protection. You have to look for the ingredients on the back of the label and those are titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone, tinosorb and ecamsule and Mexoryl SX.
Bryan Barron: The ecamsule that you mentioned is the chemical name for Mexoryl SX.
Paula Begoun: Oh right, thank you.
Bryan Barron: So you might see on the box, with Mexoryl, and then you turn around and look at the active ingredients and you see ecamsule.
00:25:54 It's the same thing.
Paula Begoun: The bad product examples, Bryan? This was just classic.
Bryan Barron: Yes, and I will try to get through these and the next couple ones quickly because I know we want to get to calls. Aubrey Organics Natural Sun SPF 8 Deep Tanning Sunscreen. That is an oxymoron.
Paula Begoun: Can you believe that? First of all SPF 8 is embarrassing. And they are encouraging you to go get a tan. I just...I want to kill them. Oh my god.
Bryan Barron: And Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisture SPF 15. It is inexpensive; it's $10 for 4oz but it is one of Neutrogena's most dated sunscreen formulations. So even though it has the SPF 15 it doesn't have any of those UVA protecting ingredients that Paula just mentioned. And Neutrogena knows better.
00:26:43 They sell well over two dozen other sunscreens and facial moisturizers with sunscreens that do get that right.
Paula Begoun: Can you believe that?
Bryan Barron: It used to be retired or reformulated. They will reformulate everything else.
Paula Begoun: How did they leave that one on?
Bryan Barron: I'm not sure.
Paula Begoun: So the two great product examples you have, Bryan?
Bryan Barron: Avon Mark, For Goodness Face, great name, Antioxidant Skin Moisturizing Lotion with SPF 30. That is $18 for 1.7oz. And especially for normal-to-dry skin, Paula's Choice Extra Care Moisturizing Sunscreen with SPF 30 which is $14.95 for 5oz.
Paula Begoun: So speaking of products that encourage or promote tanning, that is the next one.
00:27:24 No products that encourage or promote tanning. And don't shop product lines that have those kinds of products. They are disreputable. It is like encouraging cigarette companies to sell cigarettes to children. You don't want to encourage companies that encourage women to have bad, damaged, possibly skin cancer. Just not good. And Bryan, your example of companies that have products that encourage or promote tanning?
Bryan Barron: Yes.
00:27:55 One is a drugstore line that most of us have seen at one point or another, Banana Boat. They have a product called Dark Tanning Oil which they very nicely tell us is without sunscreen. Don't buy that. And then at the spa you might come across Sophie's Paris [Swan] Soleil Cellu-Guard Low Protection, they are being honest there, SPF 8 Iridescent Tanning Gel.
Paula Begoun: Can you believe it actually says "Low Protection?" Oh gosh. I hate the world. And of course, the great product examples is any product rated SPF or greater and just not getting a tan. Don't get a tan.
Desiree Stordahl: Or using our self-tanner, the Almost the Real Thing Self-Tanning Gel.
Paula Begoun: Which you do beautifully.
Desiree Stordahl: Yes, I do.
Paula Begoun: You really do it better than almost anybody I have ever seen.
00:28:47 Number five. Any products with irritating ingredients. Don't do it! Menthol. Alcohol. Fragrant Oils. Harsh Scrubs. Soaps. Stop it. Stop it. It is damaging collagen. It is just hurting your skin. Bryan, the bad examples?
Bryan Barron: Oh, there are several in this group. Some of our favorite bad examples are Sea Breeze Active Deep Clean Astringent. Talk about causing some skin pain. Clean & Clear Morning Burst Detoxifying Facial Scrub, loaded with ingredients that make your skin tingle but that is your skin telling you it is being irritated, not detoxified. Burt's Bees Garden Carrot Complexion Soap.
00:29:26 It's pretty close to natural as far as soap goes, but it is a classic soap and it will cause dryness and disrupt skin's barrier leading to more problems. And then a newer product, Origin's Plantscription Anti-Aging Serum. I just passed an Origin's store the other day at our local mall and they had this big sign up in the window and they are still promoting the serum saying that the results are equivalent to the leading prescription ingredient, which I know that they are referring to Tretinoin which is in Renova and Retin-A.
00:29:56 And then in big letters it says "100% results, 0% irritation." But this particular product is loaded with fragrant oils and other fragrant ingredients that absolutely cause irritation. Tretinoin would be like a vacation for your skin compared to these products.
Paula Begoun: And then the great product examples for toners that don't contain irritants?
Bryan Barron: Paula's Choice Resist Optimal Results Hydrating Toner, $18.95. Not a lot of lines do great toners. You can take a look at our best list on Beautypedia. There are some other companies mentioned there.
00:30:34 But I think most companies with toners, it is an afterthought or the objective is it is for oily skin so it needs to contain drying, stripping ingredients.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, I think so too.
Bryan Barron: Instead of any scrub, and we do recommend some on Beautypedia for those who just love scrubs, but an AHA or a BHA exfoliant any day of the week is going to get you better results than any scrub that you care to name.
00:30:58 Estee Lauder Nutritious Vita-Mineral Serum for $40, 1oz. A little on the pricy side but a very nice formula. Eucerin Sensitive Skin Gentle Hydrating Cleanser at the drugstore, $6 for 8oz. And then Paula's Choice Hydra Light One-Step Face Cleanser, normal-to-oily skin, $15.95 for 8oz.
Paula Begoun: So the last group is a product that relies on one miracle ingredient. That is like the reporter who called and asked me about the Chilean Rainforest honey because of course if came from a beehive in your backyard, that honey would be bad for your skin. Bees in the Chilean rainforest are making their honey from exotic plants.
00:31:47 I don't know, whatever the spiel is, it is meaningless because one ingredient is not the answer for anything. And even if you believed all of that stuff about miracle ingredients, every other month there is a miracle ingredient. Every line has - Lancôme now with their Visionnaire has some Jasmine extract. The Chilean rainforest honey. Cindy Crawford has got melon. Another company has Vitamin C. Another company, Caudalie, has grapes. Everybody has got a miracle ingredient.
00:32:24 Skin is very complicated. Skin needs more than one thing. Your diet needs - if you just ate Chilean rainforest honey you would die. So skin is complicated. It needs a bevy, a fruit bowl of designer ingredients that mimic what skin has or would have if it wasn't sun damaged or getting older to be healthy. Not to mention to fight Rosacea, to fight acne. A million different disorders.
00:32:59 Skin is just more complicated than that. So, Bryan, you have examples of one note products that fit this description and great ones that use the cocktail approach of giving skin everything it needs.
Bryan Barron: Yes, the couple of examples that I found, one is from Italian line Borghese. Their Cura C and Hydra Vitamin C Face Treatment. It's got a good amount of Vitamin C but that is pretty much all you are getting. And that is sort of like drinking orange juice every day and to the exclusion of everything else. It is not going to keep you healthy for long.
00:33:34 The next one is Isomer's Copper P Concentrate Serum. Isomers as a brand, they have some good products definitely and they use some very good ingredients in their serums. But rather than take five or six of those brilliant ingredients and formulate them into one serum, they have over probably 14 or 15 serums with one superstar, maybe two ingredients, and who knows what you are supposed to use.
00:34:02 Because they are all for anti-aging. They are all for wrinkles. They are all for lifting and firming. And who is going to put on that many serums every night?
Paula Begoun: Well and then which one is it?
Bryan Barron: Exactly.
Paula Begoun: If they are all lifting and firming and anti-wrinkles then they can't even make up their mind because they are all making...that's interesting. I didn't realize they had 14 different products with serums with one showcase ingredient. Interesting.
00:34:29 And the great products that use a cocktail approach of beneficial ingredients?
Bryan Barron: Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare. His Hydra Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum, $95 for 1oz; it is definitely pricier but it is packaged well and it contains a lot of beneficial extra ingredients beyond the vitamin C. As does Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum. Great amount of vitamin C joined by several other ingredients including peptides. $25.95 for 1oz. And then for a moisturizer, Clinique's Super Rescue Antioxidant Night Moisturizer. Those are $44.50 for 1.7oz and they come in a tube not a jar!
Paula Begoun: Yay! Desiree, first caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Lydia from Canada on the line.
Paula Begoun: Hi Lydia.
  Lydia. Hi, how are you?
Paula Begoun: I'm good. How are you?
Lydia: Good thank you.
Paula Begoun: What can I do for you?
Lydia: My concern is I am starting to notice that I need to attend to...my eye area is starting to get some wrinkles.
00:35:33 But I struggle because I still suffer from the dryness and some breakouts as well. So I don't know what to use in that area. Like I am almost afraid to use anything.
Paula Begoun: So wait, you are noticing wrinkles around your eye.
Lydia: I wanted to address it.
Paula Begoun: Right. But on the rest of your face you have dryness and acne, is that what you are saying?
Lydia: Occasional breakouts that I have to take care of.
Paula Begoun: Yes, you do.
00:36:05 And the wrinkles. You've got to take care of everything. We don't want to ignore one for the other. So tell me, first Lydia, how old are you?
Lydia: 47.
Paula Begoun: 47. And what skincare products are you using right now?
Lydia: Dr. Hauschka.
Paula Begoun: Dr. Hauschka?
Lydia: Yes, and it is not doing a thing for me. It used to. It is absolutely doing nothing for me right now.
Paula Begoun: Well, I'm not sure it ever did, but that is a whole other discussion.
Lydia: Little bit of irritation as well.
Paula Begoun: Bryan, just out of curiosity, I haven't looked at our Dr. Hauschka reviews on Beautypedia, but have they improved how they do their ingredient listings or are they still using ingredient listings we can't trust?
Bryan Barron: They have improved in some respects.
00:36:51 Last time I checked they were definitely off of FDA regulations for their sunscreen products. I would have to take a closer look, though, to see when we last updated the brand if they brought things up to speed.
Paula Begoun: Yeah. Dr. Hauschka was notorious for, I swear, I think they just sat around going "let's put this ingredient in it." It didn't have anything to do with FDA regulations. But separate from that, so you are using Dr. Hauschka and it is not working.
Lydia: Yeah. I still have a little bit of Rosacea so it has aggravated it.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, it would because they use a lot of fragrant plant extracts and somebody with Rosacea shouldn't be doing that.
00:37:33 And you are cleansing your face with the Dr. Hauschka cleanser, so it is their whole group of products?
Lydia: That's right.
Paula Begoun: So I am going to change you to Paula's Choice right now. There are other options, obviously, but you are talking to me so I am going to change you to Paula's Choice. But you can always, and Lydia let me encourage you - at the very least take a look at our reviews of Dr. Hauschka on Beautypedia and other products you have thought of so you get a sense, and you can look up these good and bad products we have been talking about tonight so you get a sense of what is a good product, what does help your skin.
00:38:12 so the major thing for somebody who wants to fight wrinkles and also has dry skin and is breaking out and has Rosacea, you have very tricky skin. I don't have to tell you that. You already know that. So you can never use products that contain fragrance. You just have got to stop that. And so what I am going to do, and obviously my line is - well not obviously - but my line is entirely fragrance-free.
00:38:41 No plants that have volatile fragrance. No synthetic fragrance. Because that just irritates skin. It causes collagen to breakdown. It definitely makes Rosacea and sensitive skin worse. So, I think that I am going to start you with my Resist Cleanser. It is gentle. It is soothing. It is cleansing without being drying. You can use it over your eye area, it won't irritate your eye area.
00:39:08 But for the toner I am going to have you use my Moisture...Bryan, should she use the Moisture Boost or the Skin Recovery...the Skin Recovery Toner, right?
Bryan Barron: Yeah. Absolutely.
Paula Begoun: The Skin Recovery Toner. And then I'm going to give you the new Resist Hydrator and I want you to use that on your face but around your eyes I am going to give you my Resist Antioxidant Concentrate Serum and also my Moisture Boost - what's my?
Desiree Stordahl: Hydrating Treatment Cream?
Paula Begoun: Thank you, Desiree.
00:39:52 My Moisture Boost Hydrating Treatment Cream.
Lydia: None of this would affect breakouts?
Paula Begoun: No. Well, actually, I shouldn't say no. I absolutely formulated these to not cause breakouts. However, what makes your skin breakout...I can't tell you this for sure - I can't tell you 100% how may products, I can't tell you how anybody's products will react on somebody's skin. But Dr. Hauschka products are not going to help your skin, at least as far as the Rosacea is concerned.
00:40:25 And it is obviously not helping your dryness and you don't seem to have a sunscreen in there.
Lydia: No.
Paula Begoun: So the Resist Cleanser, Skin Recovery Toner, the Resist Hydrator - it is a lightweight gel, loaded with antioxidant, well, gel, serumy, liquid thing. The Moisture Boost Moisturizer is for around your eyes as is the Resist Antioxidant Concentrate. And then for sunscreen I am going to give you my Resist new SPF 25 Sunscreen.
00:41:00 Now that I want you to test on a part of your face - that is a good sunscreen. That can makes somebody with blemish prone skin break out. We have had great success with it, but titanium dioxide and zinc oxide which is great for your Rosacea, can be a problem for breakouts. But you can't fight wrinkles without a sunscreen. So I think this is going to get you in a good direction. And then eventually I want you to, after you have experimented with these products, I want you to call us back and talk to customer service and get an exfoliant in your skincare routine. You really need a BHA.
00:41:38 But before we do that I want to just get you to have a good skincare routine and then we will get some products that can really address the wrinkles and the breakouts on a little bit of a deeper level. But first you have to get a cleanser and a toner and moisturizers and sunscreens that don't irritate your skin and give you healthy, glowy skin. And then we can work on the exfoliant and get you a beta hydroxy acid exfoliant because that is going to make a huge difference.
00:42:08 But let's get you on this for a couple of weeks and then we will work on getting you into a BHA. Lydia, thank you for calling dear.
Lydia: Thank you.
Paula Begoun: Bye-bye. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: Reminder. The number to call in is 347-426-3783. And we have Patty from Iowa on the line.
Paula Begoun: Patty!
Patty: Oh, Paula, I love your radio show, I love your books. Thank you for doing this.
Paula Begoun: Thank you. I'm glad we are talking. What can I do for you?
Patty: Well, for many years I used the Dove unscented bar soap. And it worked well for me. And then they combined their formulas. They combined the unscented with the sensitive skin. And it does something crazy to my skin. I use that on my face and my body. I prefer the bar soap; I am not crazy about body washes. And it was so easy because I could use that everywhere.
00:43:06 And I cannot find anything to replace that. I'm hoping you have some recommendations.
Paula Begoun: So, Patty, tell me how old you are.
Patty: I am 61.
Paula Begoun: God, you have the youngest sounding voice. I swear, I thought you were going to tell me you were in your 20s. You sound like a kid. Not in a bad way.
Patty: Thank you.
Paula Begoun: Patty, what else are you using besides Dove bar soap? What else do you use to take care of your skin?
Patty: I have a prescription for the Retin-A Micro Gel. And I have been on that probably two years. And I love that. I do well with it. It is the 1%, the strongest. But because I am using that I am kind of afraid to use anything else. I would like to use some kind of exfoliant - the only thing I use is my sunscreen. I use the DML Moisturizer with sunscreen.
Paula Begoun: Which sunscreen?
Patty: It is DML.
Paula Begoun: D-M-L?
Patty: Yes. It was recommended by my dermatologist.
Bryan Barron: Yes, Paula, it is a small line of fragrance-free products that I have seen them in our local drugstores. They have a shampoo and a conditioner.
00:44:33 And they are fairly basic, straight-forward, fragrance-free benign formulas.
Paula Begoun: With good sunscreens though? With SPF 15 or greater and UVA protection?
Patty: I think it is 25.
Bryan Barron: I have never seen their sunscreens, so I didn't know that they sold those. But, if you are making sure that the active ingredients we always talk about are there, then that is great.
Patty: And that was recommended by my dermatologist. That is why I am using that.
Paula Begoun: I know. Dermatologists love recommending...actually it is nice he didn't try to just sell you his own products.
Patty: Right. I appreciated that.
Paula Begoun: That's nice for a change, especially when they sell you $90 not-well-formulated products. That really gets me.
Patty: The DML is $15 I think for, I don't know, 2oz.
Paula Begoun: You just need to check to make sure that the active ingredients we always talk about for UVA protection are in there.
00:45:24 However, let me go back to bar soap. So, Patty, the issue with bar soap - I know you say you are doing well. I can't see you so I don't know what anybody means when they say they are doing well. But what I can tell you that I know for certain is that bar soap, bar cleansers, and Dove is actually not a classic soap - it is a cleanser - is that the ingredients that put bar cleansers and bar soaps in their bar form actually irritate skin and clog pores. That is just what they do.
00:45:55 The same schmutz that builds up in your soap dish and in your sink that is hard to scrub away is a film that is living on your skin every time you wash your face. It never really goes away. It is not the best for skin, not to mention that the cleansing ingredients are irritating, they are drying. It is not the best approach for taking care of skin .
00:46:21 But you got really used to using a bar soap. You got to 61 years of age using a bar cleanser, what I am about to tell you and suggest to you is going to be very hard for you because I am never going to recommend anyone's bar cleanser or bar soap because they are bad for skin, Patty.
Patty: Well, I am willing to try. I have tried some body washes and I have tried some facial cleansers. Now I have not tried any of your products. I have used I believe the Olay for Sensitive Skin, Foaming Face Wash.
Paula Begoun: What did you think of that? That's a good one.
Patty: It's that I'm so spoiled on using the one thing in the shower.
Paula Begoun: You know what it is, you like the convenience of soap and you are used to it. I do think that the Olay Sensitive Foaming Cleanser, it is a fine product. It is a very fine product.
Patty: It was one of your recommendations.
Paula Begoun: It is. So here is what I am going to do.
00:47:26 I would like you to experiment a little bit and so I am going to suggest you stick - I'm actually going to give you as my gift two cleansers. One you can keep in the shower and one you can keep at the sink so in the morning, I know what it is like, I want you to wash your face twice day - once in the morning and once at night - and so you don't have to worry about getting the one out of the shower. And I hate that when I have to run back to the shower to get my cleanser. So I am going to give you two and I want you to try.
00:47:58 I'm actually going to send you two different ones. You put one in the shower and one - just to experiment, to see if you can find one that you like. I'm going to give you my Skin Balancing Cleanser as well as my Hydra Light One-Step Cleanser. I would like you to experiment with those. At night, when you are taking off your makeup or you are cleaning your face, I would like you to use a soft, gentle wash cloth.
Patty: I do, that's another of your recommendations. I love that.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, but I don't want you to do that with your soap. I don't want you to do that with your soap.
Patty: Okay.
Paula Begoun: I want you to do that with your cleanser.
00:48:30 I think it is going to make a huge difference in your skin, the Retin-A will penetrate better. But are you not using a moisturizer at all?
Patty: If I do I use the Cetaphil Cream.
Paula Begoun: Yeah. Don't use the cream. So I am going to send you two things I would like you to try my Resist Hydrator which I think is going to be lightweight enough for you. But around your eye area I would like you to try my Resist Antioxidant Concentrate. I would like you to give this little - and stay using your sunscreen, definitely stay using your Retin-A. And I would love for you to get back in touch with Desiree and let me know how you are doing because I think you will go into your 62nd year really having younger looking skin.
00:49:22 Patty, thank you for calling and good luck with the new products.
Patty: Thank you so much for taking my call and for doing the show. It is so wonderful to listen to easy Thursday night. I love it.
Paula Begoun: You are wonderful. Thank you dear, take care.
Patty: Thanks.
Paula Begoun: Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: Sarah from Colorado.
Paula Begoun: Sarah, how are you?
Sarah: I'm doing very well, thank you.
Paula Begoun: What can I do for you?
Sarah: Actually my question is about how frequently I should reapply sun blocks. Actually talking about the podcast, whenever I go work out I listen and a couple of months ago I heard you talking - a young lady called in and she was talking about how she was reapplying sunscreen every two hours.
00:50:10 And you told her that that was not necessary.
Paula Begoun: Right.
Sarah: And so I just wanted to get some clarification about that actually. And I do live in Colorado and I know that for every 1,000 feet elevation, actually the intensity of the sun increases 3%. And when I first moved here, I found that out at 9am in the morning I went outside and within 30 minutes --
Paula Begoun: You got sunburned.
Sarah: Yes.
00:50:37 I got second degree sun burn.
Paula Begoun: Oh my gosh!
Sarah: And I have spent my life being outside. I am extremely active. And I know if I go hiking or if I go swimming or do things I put on 45 sun block. But every day, I don't know.
00:51:02 I guess I am just really worried that I am not reapplying enough just because the sun here is 25% more intense than people at sea-level. It really is. And I am showing the signs of sun damage and I want to do the best --
Paula Begoun: Sarah, how old are you?
Sarah: I am 34.
Paula Begoun: And do you wear makeup? Are you a foundation/powder wearer, or you wear no makeup?
Sarah: I do use your Barely There, the sheer matte tint. I do put that on occasionally or I use your, it is the Skin Recovery --
Paula Begoun: The SPF 25?
Sarah: Yes. And I also tried the Resist but I think I just don't like the feeling. I think it is the physical sun blocks --
Paula Begoun: But you know...go on, I'm sorry.
Sarah: It just feels a little too occlusive and kind of goopy. And that is why I can't imagine putting that on every two hours. I have dry skin.
Paula Begoun: So here is what it is.
00:52:13 The reason you have heard people say you have to put sunscreen on every two hours - it is a thing that comes from dermatologists. And what dermatologists know is that the research says not only do most people not wear sunscreen on a regular basis. In fact, just a very small percentage of people wear sunscreen on a regular basis. But when people do apply sunscreen they don't apply enough of it.
00:52:39 So they figure if they have you apply it again, and again, and again, eventually you will build up enough of the stuff on your skin and really end up protecting your skin.
Sarah: Well I had read that the chemical sun blocks - I read that they actually denature over a certain amount of time. And that is why it needs to be --
Paula Begoun: They do break down because they are in the sun. Everything breaks down in the sun. But all sunscreens, that SPF 15 is a number and that number is there for a reason.
00:53:17 It tells you about how long you can stay in the sun. So that is a tested number. I know I have to test all of my sunscreens. They are very expensive tests. But they have to be tested that that number is valid for how long you can be in the sun without getting a sunburn. It doesn't tell you that much about UVA protection, but it definitely is a time factor number. That is what that number is all about. The higher the number the longer the protection in the sun.
00:53:51 Now, does it deteriorate more when you are a mile up? I don't have tests for that. They don't have you test it at sea level and then on a mountain top. They do it in light boxes. So you are getting direct light onto the skin. I actually don't know how that relates to where you are. However, having said all of that, I do think that if you are this concerned, if you could find a sunscreen that contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, it is my personal belief, I don't necessarily have research to back this up, but I know just from my own experience that when you use a sunscreen for the face that contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide you are doing the best possible you can do to your skin to protect it from the sun.
00:54:41 So, I am going to send you everything I have that has only titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Now you said you had my Resist but you don't like the way it feels. Is that what you said?
Sarah: Yeah.
Paula Begoun: What are you putting on before - so you wash your face and then what are you putting on before you put on the sunscreen in the morning?
Sarah: I do the Skin Recovery, the concentrate serum, and then I also use the Barrier Repair Moisturizer. And then I let that kind of dry.
Paula Begoun: Here is what I would like you to do. I would like you to try my Resist Cleanser and my Resist Toner and then I want you to not put on the serum and not put on the Barrier Repair, just put on the Resist SPF 25 and see how your skin does with that. I think you are putting on too many layers of stuff and use the Barrier Repair and the concentrate at night.
00:55:45 And if you have an exfoliant in there, use the exfoliant at night, after the toner. But let's ease up on how many layers you are putting on the skin.
Sarah: Yeah, my skin is so dry. I mean it is so dry here also.
Paula Begoun: See how you do with the cleanser and the toner. A lot of people leave out the toner step and most companies make really bad toners so they actually hurt skin, they don't help skin. Obviously I make my toners so I know what is in them. They contain Skin Repairing, healing, soothing ingredients. So you are laying down protection but it is lightweight so that when you put the sunscreen on that has the titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. And my Resist one is moisturizing as well. You don't feel heavy.
00:54:34 And then the other thing is you said you have my Barely There Sheer Matte Tint, I do want you to start wearing it on a regular basis because you are going to be wearing that Resist sunscreen with SPF 25, and then you are going to put on the foundation so you are going to get that double layer and smoother looking skin with foundation during the day. And, I've got to go, but I think that will make a huge difference in the health of your skin.
00:57:05 But I think some of the heaviness is because you are layering way too many products for daytime. Way too many products.
Sarah: But you don't think reapplying is, you know, just kind of like they talk about the incidental sign of - you don't think I need to reapply throughout the day?
Paula Begoun: Well, you are outside all day, is that the idea?
Sarah: Not all day, but quite a bit. I've got young kids so it is like driving here, driving there, just walking from the parking lot into the mall or different things.
Paula Begoun: That is outside.
00:57:42 I would, if you follow what I am saying, you do the SPF 25, you put it on liberally and then you apply the Barely There Sheer Matte Tint over that, I do, unless Bryan is really going to disagree with me on this, I think you would be doing fine and then to touch up—don't forget the back of your hands, by the way, you definitely need to reapply sunscreen every time you wash your hands or you will have old looking hands sooner than you want them.
00:58:15 But what I would like you to do, Desiree let's make sure we send Sarah our pressed powder with sunscreen, because then when you touch up your makeup during the day with a pressed powder that has sunscreen, then you are adding sunscreen without messing your face and smearing around stuff. And I have to go, Sarah, so give that a try.
Sarah: Well thank you so much. I absolutely adore you and adore your products. Thank you.
Paula Begoun: Thank you, Sarah, take care.
00:58:45 Talk to you again. Oh my gosh, time went so fast. This was great. I need to wrap this up. Next week we are going to, this is absolutely my favorite topic, we are going to be talking to Deborah Enos, the anti-wrinkle diet; foods that will make you look younger. That is on the 22nd.
00:59:05 And on the 29th our favorite makeup bargains. By the way, I have to tell Deborah Enos I have lost 25 pounds. You guys got to watch me on the Dr. Oz show. I am going to look hot. I'm going to look hot. So, this is Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, with my Paula's Choice Research Team, Bryan Barron and Desiree Stordahl, keeping you beautifully informed, Thursdays live in Seattle and sometimes around the world. And we will talk to you next week on the 22nd to do an anti-wrinkle diet. Take care. Have a good rest of the week.
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