7 Bad Habits That Are Ruining Your Skin

Airdate: 5/20/11

Are your bad habits taking a toll on your skin? It's not too late to make a change! Learn about how your lifestyle affects your skin with expert advice straight from Paula.

Paula Begoun: Hello. This is Paula Begoun, I'm the Cosmetics Cop. I'm keeping you Beautifully Informed on BlogTalkRadio and it is live right now. I'm in Taiwan with Desiree Stordahl, who is my assistant and producer. And Bryan Barron in Seattle who is my alter ego. Hi Bryan, hi Desiree.
Bryan Barron: Hey everyone.
Desiree Stordahl: Hello.
Paula Begoun: So Desiree and I are both Skype-ing this show today.
00:00:36 And getting ready to go home. We've been in Asia in Korea and Taiwan for two weeks. And it's been wonderful and I miss home. I miss everybody at work. I miss the doggies at work. I miss my home. I want to go home! I'm ready to come home. What about you, Desiree?
Desiree Stordahl: It's bittersweet because I don't want to leave, I've had such a wonderful time in South Korea and Taiwan and it's just been so fascinating learning about how they take care of their skin here and realizing that a lot of the same myths apply here as they do in the United States.
00:01:14 But I do miss my husband, so I'm ready to go home.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, you know it's interesting. I was adding up all of the countries I've traveled to…I don't know what made me do that. They have just…I just started, you know, where have I been in the world?
00:01:35 Where's Paula? Where's Waldo? And I realized that I have been to over 43 countries and I'm sure I'm missing something because I just remembered that I had been in Costa Rica a few years back. But I've been to over…oh, I forgot New Zealand. 44.
  Okay, I've been to 44 countries around the world, mostly talking to women about, in fact most of the countries, there are only a handful of countries where I wasn't talking about what I do as a Cosmetics Cop, my books, Paula's Choice.
00:02:15 And one of the things I said, and it's true, I mean it's 1,000% true is that women around the world, I don't care if they are in New York or Chicago or Toronto or Mexico City or Seoul or Taipei or Paris or London or Johannesburg, South Africa, it really doesn't matter where you are, where I've been in the world.
00:2:38 Women have…the cosmetics industry is so crazy that they lie and mislead women equally about the same subject wherever you go. I mean now in Asia the myths are more around skin lightening. There is more skin lightening products in Asia than anywhere else in the world.
00:03:02 There's more hype about European brands when you are in Europe. I mean there are some leanings one way or the other. But basically it is crazy. It's just crazy. But in Asia there are a few unique twists. Every country has its own, you know, few unique twists. But here, what I found most fascinating is they have got this thing, and it's a little bit in the United States, but no way is it like how it is in Asia, is this thing about drinking collagen.
00:03:36 And if you drink collagen you will get rid of your wrinkles. It will build collagen in your face. And get rid of your wrinkles. And it's just not true. Well first of all, aside from the fact that there is no research showing that that's the case, what is most ironic is that these collagen drinks contain sugar.
00:04:05 And sugar creates something called advanced glycated end products which breaks collagen down. You might as well be drinking Coca Cola. Sugar is bad for skin. So even if the collagen in the drink did work, although there's actually no way to even know how much collagen is in the drink in diluted form, but it contains sugar. That just blew me out of the water. And women buy this, these little drinks; they are advertised on television.
00:04:38 I mean it's intense around what this drinking collagen is supposed to do. And these little drinks are causing more damage than by far than they are possible of helping. That just drove me crazy. But it drives me crazy wherever I go.
00:05:01 The other thing that happened, we were at one of the counters, because I always visit a cosmetic counter in the country I'm in, and I was noticing some women looking at and the prices here are elevated in Asia, but you know, it's expensive – they were looking at $30 lip pencils. And I'm thinking I just bought a whole bunch of lip pencils – I know, $30 lip pencils! And I just bought a whole bunch of lip pencils. I'm out of…Paula's Choice used to sell lip pencils. I finally used up my last Paula's Choice lip pencil which I just love.
00:05:40 Well obviously I love and they were mine, I chose the colors. So I was at a drugstore in the United States and I bought a whole bunch of lip pencils for a buck or $1.30 or $1.25 or something. And they are beautiful. They work great. And I know because I have sold lip pencils and gone to companies that make lip pencils.
00:06:04 There's only a handful of them in the world. I know where all of these companies are getting their lip pencils from. And there is no way on God's earth that that lip pencil those ladies were looking at was worth $30. I wanted to take it, you know, I get so…but I didn't do anything. I thought of it, but I didn't. Plus it was in a foreign language, they weren't talking in English so they probably wouldn't have understood me. I wanted to say, “Stop it. Please don't waste your money on those products!”
00:06:36 Okay. All right, that was my rant for today. But, okay, I'll stop; I could carry on.
Bryan Barron: Paula, I have a quick question for you based on your travel experience and talking about skincare with women all over the world. Is there one common concern that women have no matter where you go?
Paula Begoun: Oh there are mostly common concerns.
00:07:06 It's about dry skin, oily skin, combination skin, open pores, blackheads, acne, wrinkles, sun damage, dark circles under the eye, Rosacea. Not in African countries so much, but Rosacea, Caucasians mostly get Rosacea, but Asians get Rosacea, Indians get Rosacea, black skin types get Rosacea.
00:07:39 Psoriasis. I mean the thing about skin that is so hard to wrap, particularly in Asia and in Africa to grasp is that despite the different races and/or ethnic background or skin color is that skincare doesn't differ and most skincare problems, if not all skincare problems, are pretty much the same if not identical.
00:08:07 Skin is simply the largest organ of the human body and much like your heart or your liver or your kidney, my heart doesn't differ from somebody from Asia or somebody from Africa. What I need, if I'm having a heart attack and I'm going to the hospital, or somebody Asian is going to the hospital it is not like the doctor says, wait, let's pull out the Asian heart book. It's a heart.
00:08:39 It's an organ. And we have the same organs. And skin is simply an organ. So while there might be some nuances, white skin gets more skin cancer than black skin. And things like that, but sunscreen stays universal. If you want to have healthy skin, sun damage is universal. So what I find in any country I have gone to is the skincare problems are pretty much the same.
00:09:05 Asian women worry more about their skin color. By far, not wanting to have too much yellow, darker skin color is a big deal for people in Asia, and Africa for that matter. That's really about it.
Bryan Barron: Would it be accurate to say that compared with European women, Asian women are much more diligent about sun protection and avoiding a tan?
Paula Begoun: Oh, yes.
00:09:37 Oh my gosh. You know in the department stores here, both Desiree and I found this. I hadn't noticed this before. They have an umbrella section that is little cute, adorable, beautiful, feminine umbrellas meant for shade protection.
Bryan Barron: They are called parasols then.
Paula Begoun: Oh, yes, I forgot. Parasols.
00:10:04 They carry parasols. They sell parasols. They have a whole section in a department store like a scarf section, a hat section; there is an umbrella section. So, yes, they are. They don't sit on a beach like European women or American women or Canadian, Australian women by far. They are diligent.
  But one of the things they were surprised to learn, most women around the world are surprised to learn, is that sun damage begins within the first minute –
00:10:36 And I'm serious about this. The research is clear. Collagen damage, your immune cells break down, DNA damage in your lower layer cells, begins within the first minute your skin sees the sun. And then that cumulative damage, you know, day after day, year after year, and that if you are leaving the house and you are thinking, well, I'm just getting in the car.
00:11:00 I'm just going to work. I'm just sitting in an office. I'm going to leave, the sun is not going to be out so much. The damage is happening when you are in the car, when you are going to your car, walking to the office, and the bad rays of the sun come through windows within the first minute.
  So that always, well actually that surprised me when I learned that a few years ago. So, you know, the need for sunscreen even on days like that, that that is a major part of your skin care routine for any part of your body surprises me and surprises women when I tell them that.
00:11:41 But yeah, and of course the ads that the cosmetics companies throw at women and what the sales, the crazy things the cosmetic salespeople say. It's pretty shockingly universal. Of course the one thing I mentioned last week about Korea, they use more skincare products than any. They don't ask how can I simplify my routine.
00:12:03 They just want to use more products. And they are already on average using 18 products a day. Oh my god.
Bryan Barron: Just for their face?
Paula Begoun: Just for their face. Not including the hair and the rest of their body. Just for the face. So, yeah, no expensive lip liners. Stop with the collagen drinks. And listen to the Cosmetic Cop team and being Beautifully Informed. We will save your money and we are going to save your skin.
00:12:33 And we are going to save your skin tonight, or today, wherever you are in the world. We are talking about bad habits, that's the big topic. And you know there's all the typical “bad habits,” skincare bad habits you hear about like not smoking, not getting a tan, having a healthy diet, not using sunscreen is a problem. But all of those things that you shouldn't be doing.
00:13:02 You need to use a sunscreen and of course our strong desire for you is to not listen to the newest ad or celebrity-endorsed product. You are not supposed to be using bar soap. You are not supposed to be drinking too much alcohol. And then there are some of the –those are givens. I hope they are givens. I hope everybody knows that, because those things, the smoking, getting a tan, and drinking too much is just bad all over, bad for every part of your body, more or less your skin.
00:13:31 And then there's the bad habits you have heard of that actually aren't bad habits like squeezing a blemish. In fact we strongly recommend, very carefully, mostly using a comedone extractor, removing a blemish and soaking it with either benzoyl peroxide or a beta hydroxy acid product, salicylic acid. It makes a dramatic difference. If you don't over-squeeze, if you don't hack at your face, getting rid of the pressure in a blemish just makes a huge difference of getting rid of blackheads.
00:14:02 If you don't remove it by either gentle squeezing or using a comedone extractor, you are stuck with it. It's very difficult to get away. It's very difficult to scrub it away without damaging skin and making it worse.
  The thing about dirty brushes, yeah, dirty brushes aren't great but the kind of bacteria in the brush doesn't cause acne. Your skin already has a ton of great bacteria on top of it. You know bacteria actually plays a role on the surface of skin. The bacteria that is causing a problem in the pore causing acne doesn't come from the outside, the acne causing bacteria in the pore actually doesn't like hair, so it doesn't live out there.
00:14:42 And then I am seeing things about bad habits like resting your cell phone against your face because of the same thing, transferring bacteria. That bacteria, that kind doesn't have any effect on your skin whatsoever. Some of that actually is good bacteria. In the long run it just doesn't make a difference.
00:15:04 So, here's the major ones I want you to think about – not major. But in addition to the typical, here's the ones I would like you to consider paying attention to because I think that this is pretty surprising to a lot of women. And I have mentioned some of these before, but this is great to just sum it up is not to pull at your face to remove makeup.
00:15:28 One of the reasons I have been recommending water soluble cleansers for years and years and years, gentle water soluble cleansers is because you don't pull at your skin. When water and a gentle cleanser is being massaged over your face, the water prevents friction, you are not moving the skin very much if at all, at least not in comparison for sure to rubbing at your face, particularly the eye area which is the part of the face that is most prone to sagging the fastest and tears the elastin and collagen there.
00:16:01 Tears the fastest. Breaks down the fastest. So I recommend washing your face, your whole face, with a water soluble cleanser. And then whatever makeup is left over you dab off with a cotton ball and your makeup remover as opposed to doing it the other way around – wiping off your makeup and then using the water soluble cleanser. The idea is to pull as little as possible so you don't break down collagen, you don't sag the skin, break down elastin.
00:16:28 The second thing is not getting all of your makeup off. That kind of goes to not pulling your face, but the opposite end of that is over scrubbing and overdoing it. I'm big into recommending, I have in the past, using a soft gentle washcloth and that works fine. The scrubs you buy, the particles tear into skin. Most of them are way too abrasive. Some have a softer scrub bead in it, a polyethylene bead. That's actually okay.
00:17:02 But you know, it's cheaper to just use a soft washcloth and now I strongly recommend a soft, very soft, brush to make sure that if you are wearing heavier makeup or just to get that extra mechanical, manual exfoliation on your face, that's a great way to do it. But not overdoing it.
00:17:27 And then eating sugar, you know when I was talking about the collagen drinks here in Asia that contain sugar, let me stress strongly that eating sugar is wonderful for your taste buds. It is hell for your, not to mention your hips, but for every part of your body including your skin because it breaks down collagen. It hurts every part of skin cell formation.
00:18:00 It's interesting to mention that recent research has shown surprisingly something that scientists have always suspected is that eating sugar is carcinogenic. But now the research is pretty clear that that is factual, not just theoretical. And that includes honey, by the way, corn syrup, brown sugar. It's about raw sugar and how that affects the body causing this thing called AGES, Advanced Glycated End Products. It's just bad news.
00:18:35 Just bad news. What a shame. Chocolate.
Bryan Barron: Paula, have you seen any related information about naturally occurring sugars, like sugar occurs naturally in milk. Of course it is in many fruits and I have yet to see a nutritional expert say don't eat fruits if you want to look younger.
Paula Begoun: Right. It's about…well definitely I haven't seen the research about fruit juices.
00:19:02 But when you are eating a whole fruit, like an apple, a strawberry, a papaya, which papaya is just wonderful, because of the way that breaks down in whole form, you are not getting the hit of sugar like you get when you are getting pure sugar. So it is really about the concentrated raw forms of sugar and the way they impact the body and break down.
00:19:26 It's over my head how that raw sugar, that pure sugar, breaks down in comparison to when you are eating a whole fruit, but all of the fiber and all of the other components of eating a whole fruit is different than squeezing the juice, giving up all that wonderful fiber and antioxidants that are in the fiber and all the other good things and just getting the sugar rush from the fruit juice.
  So most research points to whole fruit absolutely not being a problem.
00:19:58 But squeezed juice doesn't really replace whole food. I don't exactly know what that relationship is in comparison to sugar or honey or brown sugar or corn syrup. I could definitely look into that, but technically I know that the whole fruit is absolutely not a problem and it is because of the way the body uses the sugar with the fiber and the other components of the whole fruit. But that's a great question. That's a great question, Bryan.
00:20:29 The fourth thing is when it comes to skincare, doing too little is as bad as doing too much. So, a lot of women all over the world use an anti-aging lotion an anti-wrinkle cream, an anti-sagging, an anti…you know…I don't know, firming, luminous. Just a host of moisturizers.
00:21:00 And a host of products making claims for different aspect of firming, fighting wrinkles and in essence a product that is well-formulated with all of the great ingredients skin needs doesn't differ – there are no special firming. There are no special anti-wrinkle. There are no special luminizing. Well maybe luminizing, but that is more makeup than skincare. That's just adding sparkle to a moisturizer.
00:21:31 So using too little and using too much are problems. So too little is not paying attention to the need of a gentle cleanser and a makeup remover for the last bits of makeup. Not using…well, I don't know, maybe you could go without toner. But I'm a big one into the benefits of what toner can do for skin. You've got to use sunscreen during the day. I strongly want women to use an exfoliant.
00:22:00 Sun damage. We all have sun damage. Getting that dead skin cells off, particularly if you have sun damage as well as oily skin just because oily, blemish-prone skin tends to have a thicker outer layer as part of the problem. So too little, too much, you've got to find a mid ground where you are using the right order of products for your skin type.
00:22:25 I've got to go back to not using jar packaging and expensive products because they are lining the department stores. I see…I mean the products being advertised in jars and recommended in fashion magazines and the expensive ones. And oh my gosh. Stop it! Jar packaging, you take the lid off, all the beautiful ingredients break down. And expensive products, I just can't think of a reason to spend more than, I don't know, $50. Bryan, I don't know, what do you think? I can't think of why you would spend more than $50 on any skincare product.
00:23:02 And then only a very elegantly formulated moisturizer. Anything you can think of that I am missing?
Bryan Barron: I mean there are some companies out there that are using ingredients, and even though they don't have a lot of conclusive or any conclusive research showing they work, for an example I am thinking of products that use human growth factors.
00:23:28 Those ingredients aren't cheap. And I can see why moisturizers or eye creams that contain those ingredients might be approaching the $100 and up cost at retail. But it is still, when you are spending that much, you want to make sure if you are going to spend that much that the ingredients actually have some solid research behind them, that they aren't controversial, that you could be doing in your effort to do too much of a good thing, you could be actually putting your skin at risk.
00:24:03 There's a lot of ingredients out there that we just don't know enough about yet.
Paula Begoun: And that's why you go to, Beautypedia, and you look up what we said. But let me, Bryan, forgive me for interrupting, but just to be clear, we don't recommend growth hormone factors in skincare products, it's only a handful of companies that even cross that line.
00:24:29 There is a huge controversy around whether or not those could potentially be carcinogenic and what they actually do to skin versus just its benefit when it is used in surgical procedures. But go on, Bryan, I cut you off, I'm sorry. I just wanted to be clear that growth hormone is something we absolutely don't recommend.
Bryan Barron: But to recap, I agree with you. I really – spending more than $50 on a single skincare product.
00:25:01 When you are going past that point, even if you are buying a product that we reviewed favorably, because they are definitely on Beautypedia, if you want to spend $75 to $90 on a moisturizer or a serum, we will tell you which ones are worth your attention, but beyond that point you are pretty much paying for marketing costs, advertising, if they have a celebrity spokesperson. Or, if it is just their whim, because they know that the common consumer, a lot of marketers know the common consumer perception among cosmetics is that expensive means better.
00:25:40 How can $150 eye cream not be monumentally better than what you can buy for $10 at Walgreens? It just doesn't compute.
Paula Begoun: Right. And the truth is that it is really about some place in the middle price wise.
00:26:01 And it's always about what's in the product because there are a lot of expensive products that suck.
  Number six, don't forget about your hands, arms and chest. I'm actually saying this more to myself than to anybody else. Because while I remember my hands, I rarely remember the rest of my arm and my chest. And we are talking about sunscreen, we are talking about elegant moisturizers. We are talking about exfoliating, particularly the chest. Gosh that just ages.
00:23:31 It just, you know, I keep thinking, I wish I had been better. Sometimes I go back in the house because I realize, oh, I forgot again. So hands, arms and chest – those are the parts of your body that are going to look as old as your face if you are not taking really great care of those areas, just like you should be taking great care of your face. Don't forget it. It makes a huge difference.
00:27:00 And then number seven, throw out old products. The skincare products, even in great packaging, once you have opened it – I don't care what type of packaging it is – those ingredients still break down. They will last awhile, and some of them will last even past awhile. But in the long run for the sake of your skin to get the best most potent ingredients that you – the antioxidants, the cell communicating ingredients that tell skin to make better cells, and skin repairing ingredients –
00:27:37 Don't keep products around all that long. It's a problem. And, if you are not using them up it's probably because you don't like them anyway. So keeping them in your drawer, just keep something around that you really shouldn't use once you think of it again. Throw out old products. I don't care so much about makeup. I know everybody talks, you read in magazines, throw out your blush after this time and your eye shadow, you know, I don't care.
00:28:03 That's not skincare, that's powder. You know, if the color still looks good, I don't care. There's really no rhyme or reason how they came up with the dates on those anyway. You should probably throw out your mascara after three months; that's probably a good rule of thumb. But the other stuff, it's really, who cares about the makeup stuff. But when it comes to skin care, which I care a lot about because that is not subjective, that's about research, that's about skin health.
00:28:31 That's about taking care of the largest organ of your body. And that is about how that reflects to the rest of the world. Yeah. Don't keep old products, old skincare products.
  And of course, that's it. So, seven, but I've just got to throw in gray roots. They will make you look older. Your nails, when the polish is breaking down, get it off. Desiree, next time you see me with chipped nail polish, hand me a bottle of nail polish remover. I keep forgetting that one.
00:29:00 And teeth. Don't forget about teeth whitening and teeth straightening. And attractive smile goes a long way to looking younger. And I'm not talking about the ultra white celebrity smile that kind of looks so glaring it hurts your eyes and all you can see is teeth. That's not the one I'm talking about. But definitely in terms of a beautiful appearance, a beautiful smile goes a long, long way.
00:29:32 Okay, those are the top ones. Desiree, let's take the first call.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Sabrina from California on the line.
Paula Begoun: Hi Sabrina.
Sabrina: Hi Paula.
Paula Begoun: Hi, what can I do for you?
Sabrina: Well, I was hoping for some advice. I have a skin condition called ichthyosis which I'm told is not all that rare. But nobody ever seems to know what it is. So I deal with a lot of dry skin.
Paula Begoun: Actually, Bryan, I'm sorry Sabrina.
00:30:07 Bryan, that sounds familiar to me but actually off hand I don't know what that is. Ichthyosis, is that thickened outer layer of skin.
Sabrina: Yeah, very rare version.
Bryan Barron: It's characterized by – it's a group of different diseases that is characterized by dryness, scaling.
00:30:28 The people affected by it, their skin can start to look like scales on a fish.
Paula Begoun: Oh, so it is a special kind of thickening of the outer layer of skin. So that is the ichthyosis part, that scaling like a fish. Got it. That's where that Latin term comes from.
Bryan Barron: And as with a lot of skin issues, it's believed to have a genetic component and Sabrina does anyone else in your family have this issue?
Sabrina: Yeah, I think I got it from my mom.
00:30:59 Although I would say out of my family I have it the worst. But –
Bryan Barron: And is it on your arms and legs the most?
Sabrina: My arms actually probably the least which is nice. But my legs really a lot. But my face is the hardest part. I don't get the scaly looking skin, but I constantly have to battle with flakiness. But then I also have oily and so it breaks out. And so I am constantly battling between, okay, I need to exfoliate, oh, now I'm kind of getting breakouts.
00:31:32 Okay, how do I balance the oil? It's back and forth, back and forth, constantly. And I just have a really hard time with it.
Paula Begoun: So Sabrina are you using – I'm sorry, Bryan?
Bryan Barron: Oh, just from what else I know about this condition, the general treatment protocol, at least in terms of skincare products, mirrors what is typically recommended for Eczema. And one of the, or two key factors that really tend to improve this condition for a lot of people is being in a warmer, humid climate.
00:32:06 And if that is not possible, you need to make sure that the humidity level in your home is kept at a higher level. So you want to use a humidifier. That can go a long way toward improving the symptoms.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, particularly a humidifier in your bedroom for when you sleep at night is incredible. Especially, for anybody actually in the drier months. But for this skin condition, Sabrina, for you it would be all the time.
00:32:40 So, are you using any Paula's Choice skincare products. Have you tried a salicylic acid based skincare product?
Sabrina: Yeah, I have Paula's, let me look here. I have the 8% alpha hydroxy gel and I have the 1% beta hydroxy acid lotion. I kind of alternate between the two.
Paula Begoun: And which of my cleansers –
00:33:06 Are you using my cleansers? Or whose cleansers are you using?
Sabrina: I use Clean & Clear Sensitive Skin.
Bryan Barron: That's one we rated highly.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, that's not bad, go on. What else are you using?
Sabrina: And then I use SPF 15 moisturizer, it's like Olay Complete.
Paula Begoun: Bryan, that's zinc oxide and titanium dioxide based, right?
Bryan Barron: Olay doesn't use titanium dioxide. They use zinc oxide typically with Octinoxate so it is the mineral and the synthetic.
00:33:42 The complete…I'm wondering Sabrina if that one, although it is a good sunscreen, if it is not hydrating enough for you.
Sabrina: It's not a very moisturizing one. And so when my skin is feeling dry I end up putting on top of it – I got Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Moisturizer which is very thick.
00:34:05 And so when my skin is feeling flaky I kind of pile that on top of it and hide the flakes.
Bryan Barron: Hey Paula, do you think she would benefit from the cleansing brush?
Paula Begoun: Definitely she would benefit from the soft, very soft…I actually even think the Olay one because of the Eczema-related aspect of the disorder, I actually think it would be too rough. We are going to be selling one but we haven't sourced it yet. We need to find one that is currently on the market that we can recommend.
00:34:38 But a very soft cleansing brush would help. Here's what I would like you to do Sabrina. I think that I would like you to try my Skin Recovery Cleanser. Desiree, are you writing all of this down so we make sure we get this stuff to Sabrina?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes.
Paula Begoun: So we are going to send, and these are always full-sized products that we send.
00:34:58 We are not just sending you little samples. So I want you to try my Skin Recovery Cleanser and I want you to try my new Resist SPF 25 sunscreen. And I do think that AHAs aren't – I'm sorry, Sabrina?
Sabrina: Yeah, I'm here.
Paula Begoun: Oh, so I want you to try our Resist SPF 25 moisturizer for daytime. And I do think you need to use a 2% BHA product and not the AHA product. I think that for your skin type with the oiliness and the kind of flaking, you need a good anti-inflammation…
00:35:41 Everything you do has to be anti-inflammatory. And so the 2%, Desiree, let's send the 2% lotion as well as the 2% liquid, although that might be too strong. But give it a try and you can alternate. And then for your legs I'm going to send you our Weightless Body Treatment which is for the next down which also has 2% BHA, salicylic acid.
Bryan Barron: Paula loves that product.
Paula Begoun: And then I would like you to try – yeah, I love it too.
00:36:15 And the other thing I want you to try is our Moisture Boost. Our Moisture Boost moisturizer, Moisture Boost Treatment. And then for particularly dry areas, at night over the very dry areas that are feeling particularly uncomfortable, just take a little oil.
00:36:36 It could be mineral oil, it could be olive oil, just a trace amount and massage that in. Just apply it gently over the areas that are particularly dry. I think this might be a really good combination for you. And if the Olay product does contain a synthetic sunscreen, that's a problem for your skin type.
00:37:01 It's not that synthetic sunscreen ingredients aren't good. It's just that when you have the kind of disorder you have – pardon? Oh, they are not bad. Thank you Bryan, they are good. They are good. All right, Sabrina, give these a try and let us know how they are working for you.
Sabrina: All right, thank you so much Paula.
Paula Begoun: All right, take care.
Bryan Barron: One more, Paula, I wanted to double check on this while you were giving her product recommendations.
00:37:28 And in terms of a facial cleansing brush, or a brush you can use with a cleanser that doesn't vibrate but is very soft, or it is not battery-powered, the Shiseido brand makes one. It's called the Skincare Cleansing Massage Brush. And it sells for about $25. You can get it at Sephora or at department stores that sell Shiseido. I have seen this brush in the past. It is very, very soft. So it is exactly the type of brush that you were talking about to help with that dry flaky skin.
Paula Begoun: Right. Because you know in looking at all of these electric brushes –
00:38:05 Not electric, battery-driven brushes – I just don't get the benefit of the rotary action. And I think it can overdo it. So, yeah, the softer brushes. Bryan, thank you, the Shiseido one is a consideration. It's a little pricy but given you only buy it once, that is not a bad investment.
00:38:30 Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: Our next caller is Lisa from Ohio.
Paula Begoun: Hi Lisa.
Lisa: Hi Paula. I love you guys.
Paula Begoun: Thank you. We like being loved. So that's a good thing. What can I do for you?
Lisa: My question is I have oily acne-prone skin, but I am concerned about aging skin. So I'm kind of, because I have always been using the things for oily skin, what I should add to my regimen for my concerns of aging.
Paula Begoun: So, I love that question.
00:39:08 This is such my favorite question as somebody who as oily, acne skin. And I am 58 years old so I have already aged. So here is what it is. The products that any skin type needs to be younger doesn't differ. We all have skin and what keeps it younger like the ingredients, and these are just the general categories –
00:39:33 Antioxidants, skin repairing ingredients, cell communicating ingredients that tell skin cells to act younger – those everybody needs. What differs for skin type is the texture of the product. So if you have normal-to-dry skin, it should come in a rich lotion or a rich cream.
00:39:59 If you have normal-to-oily combination skin, but normal-to-combination skin it should be a lighter lotion or a lighter serum. Just used by itself, when you have dry skin you can layer the serum with the moisturizer. And then for very oily skin, acne-prone skin, just a liquid which is why I formulated my toners the why I formulated them because I can't use a gel or lotion. And I know that most toners on the market are –
00:40:29 Oh god, finding a good toner is like, I don't know why the cosmetics industry can't get this one straight.
Bryan Barron: It's like finding a good boyfriend.
Paula Begoun: It is. It's similar. That's great, Bryan. Can I use that? I'm going to steal that line from you.
Bryan Barron: Yup. Go ahead.
Paula Begoun: So a great toner needs to contain antioxidants, cell communicating ingredients and skin repairing ingredients. But it's in a liquid form.
00:41:00 And it doesn't contain any irritants so it doesn't break down collagen. So for somebody like your skin type, which is my skin type, you give the skin those great ingredients and a toner, and using a sunscreen and for me, I use a sunscreen in a foundation and a pressed powder, because I don't like lotions and creams on my face. And then of course if your eye area is drier, then you do need a moisturizer in a lotion or cream form that is emollient that is loaded with those great ingredients.
00:41:29 Just doesn't have to say eye cream on it. And that will get you through. That's about as anti-aging, and assuming of course that you are already using a good exfoliant for your blemish-prone oily skin, that's the best as it gets in the world of anti-aging. So, gentle cleanser, toner loaded with antioxidants and all of those other brilliant ingredients, a sunscreen in a foundation and a pressed powder, a really great exfoliant.
00:42:03 And then a moisturizer loaded with great ingredients if your eye area is dry and you will do great. That is the state of the art besides seeing a cosmetic dermatologist.
Lisa: Great. Thank you.
Paula Begoun: All right, so are you using, Lisa are you using Paula's Choice products?
Lisa: I sure am. I use the Skin Balancing Cleanser. Then in the AM I use the Neutrogena 3-in-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment.
00:42:33 And then at night –
Paula Begoun: I'm sorry, wait one second, Lisa. Bryan, is that their one with salicylic acid?
Bryan Barron: Yes it is.
Paula Begoun: Okay, all right, go on Lisa.
Lisa: Oh, and then at night I just do it real simple. I use the Skin Balancing Cleanser again at night and then I use your targeted acne relief toner.
Paula Begoun: Okay. So here's what I would like you to change up. Lisa, how old are you?
Lisa: I'm 33.
Paula Begoun: Okay. So here is what you need to add.
00:43:05 Because none of the products you are using right now contain those great ingredients to keep skin “younger,” and you are not using a sunscreen. So you are definitely damaging your skin. You can't fight wrinkles and not use a sunscreen. So here is what I would like you to do –
Bryan Barron: Well you can, you will just lose.
Paula Begoun: What did you say, Bryan?
Bryan Barron: You can fight them, but you will lose.
Paula Begoun: Oh, yeah, that would be a losing battle.
Bryan Barron: You can quote me.
Paula Begoun: I'm writing these all down, Bryan, because they are just –
00:43:31 I will use them on the next show and take credit for them. So, Lisa, I want you to use the Skin Balancing Cleanser and the Skin Balancing Toner. You really do need to get those antioxidants and cell communicating ingredients and skin repairing ingredients to your skin in a smoothing formula, in liquid form so you don't add drying – because so many toners are really just eau de cologne, they are just fragrance or they contain alcohol.
00:44:10 I mean they are just terribly formulated products. So the Skin Balancing Toner from Paula's Choice I can absolutely assure you is great. I think the Neutrogena product you are using is fine. I don't see a reason not to use that, unless you are having any problems with it, but it's a fine product to consider using.
00:44:32 And then, but during the day you do need probably your eye area is drier, and a more emollient moisturizer, I'm going to send you my Moisture Boost Treatment and also my Resist, from my new Resist line, the Barrier Repair so you can experiment to see which one works best for your eye area. And then at night what you are doing so far sounds fine, I just want you to add the toner in, again so you are getting those great ingredients and you are putting either the Moisture Boost Treatment or the Resist Barrier Repair around the eye.
00:45:07 And then for sunscreen, do you wear, Lisa, do you wear foundation during the day?
Lisa: I do.
Paula Begoun: And does it have sunscreen?
Lisa: One, I do two different foundations. Sometimes, the liquid foundation I use does not have sunscreen, but I do use Bare Minerals occasionally that does have the sunscreen, so I try to use that when I am going to be outside.
00:45:31 Which I know is bad, I should be wearing it all the time.
Bryan Barron: Did we lose Paula?
Paula Begoun: Ingredient…what?
Bryan Barron: Oh, there she is. Sorry, you dropped out for a few seconds there.
Paula Begoun: Oh, I know, I just heard that all of a sudden I'm dropping off. Skype. Skype. Who bought Skype? Microsoft bought Skype?
Bryan Barron: Yup.
Paula Begoun: Who bought Skype?
Bryan Barron: Microsoft.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, Microsoft, get the connection better.
00:45:59 Microsoft, get to work. So, I lost my train of thought. What was I saying, was it interesting? What was I saying?
Bryan Barron: She made the comment that she wears Bare Minerals foundation when she knows she is going to be outside in the sun but not consistently. And she knows that's bad.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, that's bad. Bad girl. But the problem with powder foundations is that in order to get on enough, to get the sun protection, because you've got to apply it liberally, you are not going to apply it liberally because it is going to look thick and cakey.
00:46:34 And they're absorbent. They absorb the moisture in your skin. And they absorb all of the good ingredients you just put down. I'm not nuts about powder foundation, but I do strongly recommend a liquid style foundation that is light, has a good SPF in it. I'm going to send you a couple of mine that I would like you to try and then add the pressed powder over it to set the makeup. I'm going to send you my Healthy Finish Pressed Powder.
00:47:03 But the Bare Mineral one to use over your foundation is a fine option. So give all of that a try, Lisa. And you will look younger than your friends.
Lisa: Oh, thank you so much.
Paula Begoun: You are welcome, Lisa. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: Our next caller is Alyssa from Pennsylvania.
Paula Begoun: Alyssa, hi Alyssa.
Alyssa: Hello.
Paula Begoun: Hi, what can I do for you?
Alyssa: Oh Paula, first of all I wanted to say that I am so happy to talk to you.
00:47:33 I'm a new customer and I'm glad to find out your line. Thank you very much. Because you really saved my skin and cleared it up and I'm so happy.
Paula Begoun: Do you want to marry me? That's great. Thank you. That's wonderful. I love hearing – you know my ego, I might not get it through the door, but that is wonderful, dear. Thank you, Alyssa, I appreciate it.
Alyssa: Thank you very much.
00:48:01 And I knew about your line a long time ago. I am from Russia, from Kazakhstan but I never tried it. And now I'm in the USA and I tried it and it is really wonderful. It's great. I'm just…it's all clear.
  But my question, I'm just wondering, as long as we talk today about bad habits for the skin, do you hear anything – I heard or read somewhere that silk pillow cases supposedly can protect your skin from wrinkles better than regular ones. Is it true or is it the same hype as other?
Paula Begoun: You know –
Alyssa: I'm just concerned looking younger for future.
00:48:41 Does it make any difference?
Paula Begoun: Yeah, you know, there is no – to say the least – there is no research on it. You know the notion is that when you sleep on cotton sheets, your skin doesn't move over it so it sets in, so whatever folds you might have in the morning will set in much like how you frown during the day and those parts of your face that you move around the most.
00:49:13 The wrinkles set in there the fastest. You know, I don't know. I've tried silk pillow cases just because I thought it was cool to try a soft, silky, and you just slide off of it. I can't sleep on it. I don't know whatever benefit it is supposed to have, I don't think it hurts to try it.
00:49:35 I don't buy the theory behind it, but you know, who knows.
Alyssa: So there's really no research or nobody checks it.
Paula Begoun: Oh, god no. But, and personally, you know, really I slide off of it. Really, I wake up in the morning and the pillow is somewhere else. It's like on the floor. Who knows. And then my boyfriend slides off of his, and he won't – so now I have a bed with one with cotton and one with silk.
00:50:05 So yeah, that was a long time ago. I didn't do it for wrinkles, I did it because I thought it was a sexy, fun thing in bed. And silk sheets and the whole thing. And sliding, slipping.
Alyssa: They supposedly say that somehow your skin doesn't get jammed and it is better, I don't know. I just really haven't tried. And why I am asking, because I really noticed like I am sleeping in one side and does it make any difference if you sleep on the side, on the back, on the belly?
00:50:37 Does it really [affect] skin or really not?
Paula Begoun: Theoretically, yes. If you push around skin, theoretically, if you are sleeping and your skin is getting bunched up, it is a problem, it's true.
Alyssa: It will not go back in the morning, no?
Bryan Barron: Well it does, it just takes time.
Alyssa: It's just over time, right?
Bryan Barron: Right.
00:51:01 Right, well she is saying it will go back. I mean I have noticed that every now and then I will wake up and I will have crease marks on my face. And I have that little moment of panic like oh my gosh, what happened?
Alyssa: I always get them around my eyes for some reason. I am just 29 years old. I don't really have any wrinkles. But around my eyes I start noticing any fine lines, and it is funny because this vertical wrinkle around the eye, it's in the opposite side from the side where I usually sleep on. That's strange. How does that happen?
Paula Begoun: I don't think, yeah.
00:51:39 It doesn't hurt to try it, and if you like sleeping on it, that's great. But I don't think, it sure as heck doesn't compare to sun protection and healthy diet, and all the great skincare things we have been talking about – exfoliating, healthy ingredients to skin, that make skin really younger. So, yeah, if you don't push your skin around, that's good, but I don't know.
00:52:06 Yeah, I don't think so. Give it a try. Who knows? I don't know what to say. It's not going to kill you.
Alyssa: If it is a [much better] experience, I'm sure you know better.
Paula Begoun: And you might like sleeping on silk. So Alyssa, tell me what Paula's Choice skincare products you use and we will send you some more.
Alyssa: I'm using currently, I just can't choose. I like so much of them. I'm like other girl. I have acne-prone skin and at the same time I am worrying about preventing aging.
00:52:33 So basically I use one of the cleansers like Skin Balancing or Clear, regular cleanser, normalizing cleanser in the morning or in the evening. I use Skin Balancing Toner. I love it. I use your Skin Mattifying Lotion, Skin Balancing Concentrate in the morning and Skin Resist n the evening. I like Skin Barrier Moisturizer. So I use…and I like Clear Regular Strength line. It's really cleared up –
00:53:03 I don't have acne, but with something like breakouts or something. Now I almost don't get them.
Paula Begoun: Oh, that's wonderful.
Alyssa: That's wonderful. That was my main concern. And I always say, as long as I will finish to fight with my acne, I guess I will start to fight with my wrinkles. And now it's the next one.
Paula Begoun: So Alyssa, I think you are doing everything from my line that I would recommend so I am going to have Desiree send you another set of what you are using and it will keep you looking younger and without acne for a long time.
00:53:41 Thank you for calling. I'm going to try to get one more call in.
Alyssa: Thank you, Paula. Can I ask just one little thing? Just one –
Paula Begoun: Yes, quick, quick, quick.
Alyssa: I was wondering, I was going to ask you and forgot. About your Barely There Moisturizer, I never tried it but I am thinking of trying it.
00:54:00 Can I put it on top of Skin Balancing Mattifying Lotion or would that be overkill?
Paula Begoun: Right, you are talking about my foundation, right?
Alyssa: Yes, the Barely There Moisturizer.
Paula Begoun: Absolutely. We'll send you the Barely There Foundation. Layering sunscreens is a good thing, particularly when you are adding a foundation and a pressed powder. We will also send you the Healthy Skin Pressed Powder. Thank you, Alyssa, I'm going to get one more caller.
Alyssa: I'm so glad. Thank you very much. Bye Paula.
Paula Begoun: Bye dear. Desiree, let's try one quick question.
00:54:35 Let's get one more in.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Melissa from Georgia on the line.
Paula Begoun: Hi Melissa.
Melissa: Hello.
Paula Begoun: Hi, what can I do for you?
Melissa: Well I am going to be starting Accutane here in a couple weeks and I wanted to know what would be the best skincare routine for starting that. Because I know my skin is going to get a lot drier.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, yeah.
00:55:02 So this isn't an easy question. So I have a lot of tricks for Accutane as somebody who – I took two courses of Accutane in my 30's. And a few of the people I know in my life also took Accutane and had immense success with it. Actually everybody I know had immense success with it. But it is tricky. So you are going to have to switch to my Skin Recovery products. You will have dry skin. You can try an exfoliant.
00:54:34 I am going to send you my 1% BHA lotion. But you have to be very careful with it and really judge how your skin is doing. I'm also going to send you my Body Butter as well as my Slip into Silk body lotion because your skin on the rest of your body can also get dry.
00:55:55 I am going to send you my Lip and Body, the Lip Recovery Balm. So even though it is a lip product, I want you, and I know this is going to sound strange, but if you start having – one of the things that happens with Accutane is the inside of your nose gets very dry and can bleed. So as disgusting as this might sound, use my Lip and Body Balm inside your nose. You can apply it with a Q-Tip. You can be disgusting and apply it with your finger. It makes – I wouldn't have gotten through Accutane without using a really good thick moisturizer that sticks.
00:56:36 That's the problem is if you put something in your nose that is a lotion or cream it won't stick, but my Lip and Body Balm won't go away easily and it can really make a difference if you start having very dry inside of your nose. And actually if it is winter and you are having a very terrible time with dry nose and bleeding, the Lip and Body Balm to apply it inside your nose is incredible. There is no fragrance in it, nothing irritating in it.
00:57:04 It's just an emollient, thick emollient that sticks. So, Melissa, those are the things I'm strongly going to recommend. You've got to use a sunscreen. So I'm going to send you my new Resist sunscreen with SPF 25. And it is also loaded with healing ingredients. So I also want you to give that a try. And as you go along, definitely call my customer service department and check in with them to see how you are doing.
00:57:33 But I think this will get you very, very far. Thank you for calling, Melissa. Good luck. I know Accutane is a big step for somebody.
Melissa: Well hopefully it works.
Paula Begoun: Oh, it will work. It'll work. Take care, Melissa. So, I'm going home. I'm in Taiwan. I'm the Cosmetics Cop, Paula Begoun, and I miss home. I'm in South Korea and Taiwan, and I will be back in Seattle. Bryan, you miss me. Say you miss me and Desiree.
Bryan Barron: I absolutely miss you and Desiree. It has been –
00:58:07 Especially with the two of you gone, and then Cynthia and Randi were out the earlier part of this week, it's just been a really different vibe around here. And don't take this the wrong way, but I'm getting a lot of stuff done.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, it's quieter when we are not around. So, next week we are going to be talking about body care, your top five body care problems solved. You will love me for the upcoming spring/summer season. You will love my whole team. Six new ways, on the second of June – I can't believe we are talking about June –
00:58:37 Six new ways to do your makeup better. We will surprise you; we love surprising your. On the 9th, real solutions for dark circle and puffy eyes.
  I'm Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, with my Paula's Choice team, keeping your Beautifully Informed on Thursdays and archived on Anytime you want to listen to us and past shows.
00:59:00 Stay beautiful. Stay healthy. No more bad habits. And my team, Desiree Stordahl and Bryan Barron, and my customer service team at can answer your questions. You can visit to check out the products we recommend. And, of course, personally I love when you use Paula's Choice. Take care. Talk to you next week. Be well.
Bryan Barron: Safe travels ladies.
Paula Begoun: Thank you, Bryan.
Desiree Stordahl: Goodnight, Bryan.
Bryan Barron: Goodnight.
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