All Your Anti-Aging and Anti-Wrinkle Concerns Answered

Airdate: 9/8/2011

Your anti-aging questions get reliable answers from Paula and her team. This special show is devoted entirely to our listener's anti-aging concerns!

Paula Begoun: Hello, I'm Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, with my Paula's Choice Research Team, keeping you Beautifully Informed on Thursdays live here in Seattle, sometimes in other parts of the world. And I got to say, well first, I am in a mood – I'm all over the place. I just can't keep a train of thought here.
00:00:31 Desiree Stordahl who is my executive assistant and producer for the show is here.
Desiree Stordahl: Hello.
Paula Begoun: Hello, Desiree. And Bryan Barron who is coauthor of most all of my books and just general all-around good guy. Hi Bryan.
Bryan Barron: Hello.
Paula Begoun: Hello. Hey, Desiree, are you hearing me crackle?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes, I'm hearing a clicking noise and I think it is Bryan's headset. We are working on getting that fixed.
Paula Begoun: Oh, so that is the clicking I'm hearing?
Bryan Barron: Are you sure? Because I was typing just seconds before the show started, so maybe you heard me typing.
Desiree Stordahl: No, it's a clicking noise. When I mute you it goes away. So go ahead and switch to your handset.
Paula Begoun: Oh, Bryan, don't go too far though.
Bryan Barron: Oh man! Me and my headset problems. All right. Stand by.
Paula Begoun: See what you can do.
00:01:21 Stand by. So we are not talking headsets tonight. But what we are going to talk about is all of your anti-aging and anti-wrinkle concerns, as best as we can, help you would with them, try to work on getting you the best answers for your problems. They are not always – you know I always feel funny when we are talking about solving people's beauty problems because everybody wants to hear that you can really get rid of things and you can really make things different and better and you know things really replace surgery and all that kind of stuff.
00:02:06 And you know, I would love to be able to say I can help you out and give you hair like Julia Roberts or give you flat stomachs like whatever your favorite model is and just everything will be perfect and I will have all the answers. While I do think I have some great answers for you, I think what happens with most women is they get very seduced by –
00:02:35 Actually all women probably, is we get very seduced by the promises. It is very hard to keep it objective. And then we usually end up getting relatively disappointed because something promised to get rid of all of our wrinkles and promised to make us look 30, 20, 15 years younger, and it doesn't. It's just miserable. So hopefully what I can do when I say "answer all of your questions about aging and wrinkling and skin care" is to just give you a realistic view point at the same time. Because I don't want to make, and I would never, I mean it is just not within my being, to make the same misleading promises and claims to you about what things can and can't do.
00:03:21 I'm always going to give you the reality, because everybody else generally doesn't give you the reality. And here is an example. So, oh by the way, before I carry on, I'm in a strange mood this evening. So this is an evening of taking your calls and your questions so you have to call in for me to answer your question. So you would dial in area code 347-426-3783. And our lovely screener will take your question and let us know what it is and as soon as we can get to it, because I'm going to start taking questions here in a minute, I will help you out the best I can.
00:04:11 And give you the information you need that makes sense. So here is an example of information that doesn't make sense. Bryan, you gave me this from Glamour Magazine. This was their cover story with 300 – 300 what – something you said.
Bryan Barron: On the cover, Desiree found this piece. On the cover of the October issue of Glamour it has Jennifer Aniston and Demi Moore and Alicia Keys on the cover. And right in the center it says, "Love your looks, the 300 best beauty tricks ever."
Paula Begoun: So, okay, I'm so not going to go over all 300.
00:04:57 But one of the – is that me crinkling – I'm still getting headset stuff going on in my little head here.
Desiree Stordahl: We are still working on it with Bryan. It's his set. Go on.
Paula Begoun: Bryan! Bryan. Okay, so one of the things is that in this Glamour Magazine with this topic they have, one of them is the top ten ways to wake up prettier. And of these top 10 ways I would say 6 of them are pretty much going to have you waking up looking really badly or just with no difference whatsoever. So I just want to go over a few of these, just one of the crazy things that fashion magazine do on a regular basis is just give some really bad information.
00:05:51 So here is number one. They say before bed, obviously it has to be before you go to bed because they are claiming you will wake up prettier if you do these things. Number one, "Braid wet hair," so you will wake up in the morning and have nice waves. First of all, depending on how thick your hair is, if you braid it wet and go to bed it won't be dry in the morning. It will still be wet. Number two is that when you sleep your hair will get – I mean unless you sleep really still and don't move and don't snuggle with the person next to you, your hair is not going to stay nicely braided.
00:06:34 Hair strands are going to come out and your pillow is going to be soaking wet. It's actually a really bizarre recommendation but there you have it. They are recommending Frownies, that is the little facial patch that you put between your eyebrows and the lines between your eyebrows. You smooth them out, you wake up in the morning and you take them off because you haven't been frowning all night because it keeps your face from making movement.
00:07:09 That your area between your eyebrows will look smoother. While that indeed does work for when you wake up, there's no question about it. If you have put it on right and it doesn't come off at night while you are sleeping and when you take it off it doesn't pull skin off and look red and irritated which it can do.
00:07:30 It only last for just a little bit of time until you start using your face again. It's just not permanent. And it doesn't even last – I mean it can last anywhere from just a few minutes to maybe tops an hour. So by the time you are dressed and out of the house, it's pretty much over. It's cheap to give it a try, though. It's $20.00 a pop. But waking up prettier doesn't mean pretty automatically. It depends how you use this and what your expectation is.
00:08:04 Another one that is recommended here is to protect your blow-out, your hair dry – so instead of going to bed with your hair wet, you style your hair. Or if your hair has already been styled to keep it bouncy and full they are recommending flip your hair upside down, pull it into a high pony tail and secure it with a terry cloth-backed hair tie, scrunchie thing.
00:08:32 The problem with that is that for most hair – Desiree, does your hair do this, too? My hair does this. Whenever I put my hair in a pony tail, when I take the pony tail out I have a crease line where the pony tail –
Desiree Stordahl: Oh yeah.
Paula Begoun: So whose hair doesn't that happen to?
Desiree Stordahl: I don't believe it.
Paula Begoun: Is that ridiculous? I mean I can't – I mean even just a half an hour of wearing a pony tail, my hair will look like I still have the pony tail band in it when I take it off. I can't believe – who recommends – who do they talk to? They have swipe on – another recommendation here is swipe on nourishing essential oils.
00:09:17 Essential oils aren't nourishing. They are irritating. They smell nice. That's good for your nose, that's bad for your skin. I mean not surprisingly this recommendation came from a Chanel makeup artist, Rachel Goodwin. Rachel, I don't know, maybe it is because Chanel skincare products are more eau de parfum or perfume than they are skincare products. But the fact that essential oils are highly volatile fragrant oils, they are not going to make you feel like you have had a facial. You are going to have irritated skin.
00:09:52 This one – this is the one that floored Bryan. The recommendation is to wear primer, the kind of primer that you are supposed to wear under your foundation, is to wear primer over whatever skincare products you put on at night because according to makeup artist Mally Roncal, who sells her products – is it on QVC or HSN, where does she sell her makeup products?
Desiree Stordahl: I think it's with QVC, but I'm not positive.
Paula Begoun: It's a QVC. One of those cheesy shows/stations that do the selling stuff – home shopping – wear primer over skincare products.
00:10:36 And at night it allows them to sink in – and no it doesn't! First of all, if you apply the primer over by definition it is already, all the products are already on. Unless she is claiming that because primers put an occlusive film over the skin, which would make it not a very good primer if it contained occlusive hairspray like ingredients, which some do, maybe hers do.
00:11:07 And that occlusive layer, then, I don't know what she thinks that will do because you never want occlude skin. That is just going to clog pores and it is hairspray ingredients which usually is, because that is really the only ingredients that could do that, and then that kind of forces it in. Well, it wouldn't force it in. I don't know – whatever it is, it's a really bad idea.
00:11:30 Unless a primer is loaded with great skincare ingredients there is nothing about it that helps anything penetrate better into skin. And the last thing, I mean there were several other things, but the last thing is to sleep on a satin pillow case for smoother hair. Some people would claim that also prevents wrinkles. It doesn't. But, you know, it might make you feel good – I think you tend to just slip off the pillow. I've never liked satin sheets but if you want to give that a try, I am so open.
00:12:04 The last thing that I just have to comment on and we haven't officially reviewed this on Beautypedia yet, but there was an ad, what magazine is this? Is this a spa magazine, Bryan, that you gave me?
Bryan Barron: No, I think that was out of one of the fashion magazines, either Glamour or Allure.
Paula Begoun: Oh, they are so busy.
00:12:31 So this is a product that seems, I don't know where it is selling – University Medical Pharmaceuticals. University Medical over the years – this company sounds very technical, very medical, and they come out with products that make you sound like you are going to get rid of your wrinkles, acne, whatever, they do it all the time. And now they have Dr. Tina Alster who actually is a real dermatologist saying that this is the biggest beauty breakthrough that she has tested over the decades which probably means she has been living underground and in a rabbit hole because that means she hasn't tested anything because this is a ridiculous product.
00:13:13 It's basically you are hooking your face up to patches and stimulating the skin with electrical waves, electrical currents. I know there are other products. You know I was just thinking of this Bryan. I know we have reviewed other products in the past that have sent electrical waves through the skin.
00:13:34 And now I'm blanking out. And Linda Evans, I think, advertised them for awhile. Do you remember that? It just dawned on me.
Bryan Barron: Oh, yes. Well, I don't think I was on the team yet, but I remember in one of the older books there was Linda Evans was hawking that electro-current face mask.
Paula Begoun: Oh right, and you put it all over the face! Oh my god. This is just like a rehashing of that. Oh Dr. Tina Alster. Oh my god, I can't believe you are telling women that this is something to buy. It's $100.00. And there is nothing about electrical currents other than irritating skin, which actually then will cause collagen to breakdown, that is good for skin.
00:14:18 And this system is just so ridiculous. Actually the eye serum, it's a three-part thing, the eye serum actually isn't that bad. It's actually a very decently formulated product if you don't use it with this electrical current. Basically they give you skin prep wipes which is just alcohol – it's just alcohol – you are wiping your face with alcohol which of course is irritating and damaging. It doesn't prep anything other than that. You are stripping skin so that when you put the eye patches on which are just hairspray, so that they stick to the face, your skin doesn't have any oil or any healthy skin left so that the little patches don't fall off.
00:15:04 So that when you stick the electrodes onto your face they can zap your skin. I mean, oh my god, this one – I just – oh my gosh. I'm done ranting. Let's take..because I can just carry on. Okay, let's take the first call, Desiree.
Desiree Stordahl: All right. And a reminder to listeners, the number to call in is 347-426-3783. And our first caller is Nikki from Michigan.
Paula Begoun: Hi Nikki.
Nikki: Hi Paula. How are you doing?
Paula Begoun: Hi how are you? I'm good. I'm sorry if I am yelling too much tonight. Will you forgive me?
Nikki: No you are not. You are just fine.
00:15:42 I wanted to ask you – I have acne and I also am showing wrinkles and I wanted to know if a beta hydroxy acid is just as a good as the alpha hydroxy acid for anti-aging.
Paula Begoun: That's such a very good question. So, how old are you?
Nikki: I'm 28.
Paula Begoun: Why are you already showing wrinkles at 28?
00:16:04 Are you a little sunbathing queen?
Nikki: I used to be. Not anymore but I used to be.
Paula Begoun: Oh, Nikki, Nikki, Nikki. Actually, you know, Desiree are you 28? You are 27. How old are you?
Desiree Stordahl: 27. But I'm in the same boat as Nikki.
Paula Begoun: She was a tanner until she – you know the story. Desiree in order to get her job with me had to stop tanning. And I told her she had to stop tanning or she couldn't work for me.
00:16:29 I really wanted to hire her, and she thought I was teasing. She kind of started laughing. I said don't laugh. You come in with a tan that isn't from a self-tanner, you are fired. And it really has changed her skin, I have to tell you.
Desiree Stordahl: Oh absolutely. Absolutely.
Paula Begoun: Okay, Nikki, so we are done yelling at you about sun tanning because you are not doing that anymore. So you are wearing sunscreen, right? You are being really good about sunscreen?
Nikki: Yes, I am.
Paula Begoun: Okay, so AHAs and BHAs in essence do the exact same thing for skin in their exfoliation.
00:17:09 That they both exfoliate skin. They do that similarly. When you exfoliate the surface of skin, because of sun damage, and especially when you have acne, the outer layer of skin is unhealthy because it is thicker. It is abnormal cell production that occurs from sun damage that makes the outer layer of skin thick.
00:17:32 And for acne skin, for some reason those with oily skin and acne skin just genetically seem to have a thicker outer layer. So, exfoliating off that thickened outer layer of skin almost anywhere on the body automatically makes skin feel and look smoother, unclogs pores, because it gets off that top layer of dead skin. Where AHAs and BHAs differ is that BHAs because of their chemical properties, they can exfoliate also within the pore and they also have anti-inflammatory properties which make them particularly good when you have problems with redness, Rosacea, acne.
00:18:14 Where they differ – so BHAs have a benefit that is unique to somebody. AHAs and BHAs both exfoliate. BHAs have a unique benefit for those with oily acne skin. AHAs have a benefit if you have sun damaged skin because they come in higher concentrations; we are limited to the concentrations we can use for BHA products which is 1% to 2% in most countries around the world. So AHAs you can formulate in 10% and 8% concentrations which have a bit more benefit for sun damaged skin.
00:19:00 But having said all of that, it really just depends how your skin responds, how much exfoliation you need. So what I always say to people is to experiment. Bryan, are you just using the AHAs these days or are you also using the BHA and then the AHA sometimes. What are you doing these days?
Bryan Barron: My current routine is using the Resist Daily Smoothing Treatment which is an AHA product three or four nights a week. And then on the nights that I don't use that I apply our Clear Targeted Acne Relief Toner, the regular strength version, which has the salicylic acid. So I do go back and forth.
Paula Begoun: So, Nikki, that is a very long explanation to say that for acne and wrinkles which is my skin except I am much older than you, is I do strongly recommend the BHAs. And some people like Bryan and many of the Paula's Choice customers go back and forth between the two, especially now that we launched the new Skin Smoothing 10% and 5% system.
00:20:10 Although most of the people who are using BHA and the AHA just use the 10% once in awhile and then go back to the BHA and they don't do the 5%. So that was a very long explanation. Did that make sense?
Nikki: Yes it does. Thank you.
Paula Begoun: So which one are you using right now, Nikki?
Nikki: Which products?
Paula Begoun: Yeah.
Nikki: I am using the 2% BHA toner, the same one that Bryan uses from the Clear line.
00:20:38 And I use the Clear face wash. I can't use the benzoyl peroxide because it is too strong for me.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, I can't use it either. Did you try using the benzoyl peroxide product like every two days, ever three days? Did you try to alternate it?
Nikki: I hadn't thought of that, no.
Paula Begoun: Do you still have some? Is it an old product?
00:21:04 Did you toss it or return it? What did you do?
Nikki: I still have it.
Paula Begoun: And it's not too old? It's not like five years old or something?
Nikki: Right, it's not.
Paula Begoun: So there is a great deal of research about benzoyl peroxide having benefit for acne. There is no question about it. And I can't use benzoyl peroxide, actually I can't even use it intermittently. But a lot of people can. And because of the way it works on skin, you don't need to use it every day.
00:21:35 So you can try using it every two to three days and see how your skin does with that. And see if you get benefit. However, what I am going to send you, Nikki, is I am going to send you my 10% AHA Weekly Resurfacing System, so you can play with that and see once a week and see if you get benefit with that little bit of extra exfoliation. Maybe once every other week and see how that works for you.
Nikki: Okay.
Paula Begoun: And then the other thing I am also going to send you is my Skin Balancing Antioxidant Concentrate. And my new Resist Hydrator, just to play with.
00:22:16 Because I do think you still need to get more antioxidants to your skin. You can't fight wrinkles without exfoliating, loading your skin up with antioxidants, both topically and both eating them – eating them meaning like your diet, not eating the skincare product with antioxidants, and sunscreen. It is a marriage. So give those new products a try and you will let us know how you are doing.
Nikki: I will do that. Thank you.
Paula Begoun: All right. Thank you, Nikki. Take care. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Meryl from Costa Rica on the line.
Paula Begoun: Costa Rica. Santiago? Where are you from?
Meryl: No, I'm from Princeton, New Jersey. But my brother and sister-in-law live here in Puerto Viejo which is on the eastern coast which is not a tourist attraction for Americans anyway.
Paula Begoun: So I want you to know, I actually have been.
00:23:23 I've got to tell you. I have been to Costa Rica and I river rafted down the Pacuare River and it was – you know what that is, right, because you are in Costa Rica, so you know what the Pacuare is.
Meryl: Yes.
Paula Begoun: It's this magnificent jungle covered river. And forgive me for going off on this. So I was going down the Pacuare and it was a camping thing. So we went down the river and then we camped in a jungle tree top place when we went a few miles out the first day.
00:24:02 And that night there was a storm that came in so we couldn't finish the river rafting trip because the river went from a class 3 to a class 5 river. I think class 5 is like the most. I don't think there is anything over a 5.
Meryl: Yes. Yes!
Paula Begoun: So we had to hike out of the jungle. I hiked out of a – I thought it was enough that I was river rafting in a jungle. Can you believe it? I had to hike out of a jungle. Oh my god.
Meryl: But that's a good story – you survived.
Paula Begoun: I'm still here! Yes.
00:24:42 Oh, and a tarantula on the deck, have you seen tarantulas there?
Meryl: And monkeys.
Paula Begoun: Oh yeah, the monkeys tried to take my bag. By the way, I loved Costa Rica. I'm sorry.
Meryl: It's fabulous. I'm so lucky that I have this place to come to whenever I want. Just beautiful.
00:25:07 They built a house that is like a palace in comparison to the shacks all around. It's not the western side of Costa Rica. It's totally remote. So anyway, I'm delighted that you are taking my call. I had a number of questions but I was told that you only take one.
Paula Begoun: I'm sorry, I only take one.
Meryl: Yes. What about Botox?
Paula Begoun: What about it?
00:25:33 What do you want to know?
Meryl: What do you think about using Botox to eliminate wrinkles?
Paula Begoun: Well, so personally, just so people know exactly, I always like when there might be a conflict or just I have a personal viewpoint versus a technical viewpoint, I have been doing Botox for years, almost 10 years now.
00:26:00 So I have been doing Botox on a regular basis forever. And the reason I do it is two reasons – one is because it really works. Oh my god. And the second reason is because the research about it is pretty incredible. Botox was originally – I mean it has been around for 50 plus years. It was used for children and adults for controlling muscle movements, contractions, with those with cerebral palsy.
00:26:34 It was used for [laryngeal] contractions, spasms, that prevented people from talking. And the reason they found out that it worked for wrinkles was because it was used by ophthalmologists to control severe eye ticks, spasms of the eye that actually impeded people from seeing. And the ophthalmologist, Dr. Carruthers and his – he was a dermatologist. His wife was an ophthalmologist.
00:27:04 The two Dr. Carruthers noticed, "Look, my patients don't have wrinkles anymore who had eye ticks." There eye ticks are gone and their wrinkles are gone. And they adapted it for wrinkles. So what I think is that it works. And the idea that it keeps your face from making expressions, I think people don't realize how many people have had it done when they are watching television shows or they are looking at models in magazines or they are even talking to somebody like me because depending on how it is done it doesn't make the face look mask like.
00:27:44 So what I think about it is that it works. I think that it can be pricey for a lot of people. You have to have it done at least once a year or once every nine months. And it can be anywhere between $400.00 and $600.00 when you get it done, depending on where you are and who is doing it. New York, it is more expensive than Cincinnati, let's say.
00:28:09 So, it works. It's just that simple. It's one of the procedures from a cosmetic dermatologist or plastic surgeon that in a few days you get injected and the wrinkles, literally you wake up and they are gone. But, you know, it is a procedure. There are some risks associated with it. They are minor risks. They rarely happen. But there are some information in the literature, that because it goes away in six months, whatever problem it tends to be gone.
00:28:45 But they've got these injection things down to a science now.
Desiree Stordahl: But Paula, you don't recommend it for the under eye area, correct?
Paula Begoun: I'm sorry. I absolutely do not recommend it for the under eye area or the lips area. They love injecting lips these days. Women my age get these bands, these lines around their mouth as the mouth starts contracting. And a lot of derms love injecting the mouth which is actually where I think the idea of looking expressionless comes from because when you can't lift the corners of your mouth you do look expressionless. So, yes, I am talking about forehead lines and the lines, the injections just around the back corner of the eye for the crow's feet.
00:29:33 Yeah, I'm definitely not recommending one of those injecting the whole face like you see for some celebrities. People do get carried away with having to look like they have no wrinkles which is just, then you get an expressionless mask-like Joan Rivers –y kind of look on the face. So does that answer your question?
Meryl: Yes. I'm delighted. But what about your products that could help remove some of the wrinkles or reduce them?
Paula Begoun: I know, reduce. So by far of my products that I think make an impressive overnight improvement are my exfoliants. Now obviously I am a company/formulator that believes strongly in exfoliants because I have like over 10 of them.
00:30:26 I think it makes the most incredible difference. You just need to look at the reviews on my and see what people say about the exfoliants. They are incredibly impressive overnight. What is the most impossible thing to make a dramatic difference in are deep lines The nasal labial fold lines which I just heard some – what was I listening to – to some ad that called the lines that run from your nose to your lips along the sides of your mouth, they called them the "Parentheses Lines."
00:31:04 Have you ever – Desiree or Bryan, have you heard that one? The "Parentheses Lines" that run from your nose to the corner of your mouth? I thought that was incredibly –
Bryan Barron: Yes.
Paula Begoun: Oh, you've heard that before?
Bryan Barron: I have. And the first time I read it I kind of paused and then I thought, you know, they do kind of look like parenthesis. That makes sense.
Paula Begoun: That really made sense. Because nasal labial folds, unless you know medical terminology, that doesn't really mean anything to anybody. So, it is very hard for the lines between the eyebrows, the deep lines along the forehead. And those band lines around the mouth. That is very difficult for anything in the world of skincare to take care of.
00:31:47 However, I do think to have a smoother, less deep look, then I think exfoliants, sunscreen, products loaded with antioxidants, particularly exfoliants because they make a difference practically overnight and within a few weeks it is a pretty dramatic difference. Dramatic with big quotation marks around dramatic. So are you using any of my exfoliants right now?
Meryl: No, I haven't used any of them.
00:32:20 I should order them then.
Paula Begoun: What skincare products – are you using any Paula's Choice products right now?
Meryl: I don't have the stuff with me because I [unintelligible].
Paula Begoun: You went to Costa Rica without me! You can't go anywhere without me. Okay, so here is what I am going to do. Tell me how old you are.
Meryl: I'm 70. But I look 50.
Paula Begoun: You little cutie you. You little cutie.
Meryl: No really. Nobody believes that I am 70. I've got really smooth skin.
Paula Begoun: I don't even believe you are 70 and I don't know you.
Meryl: Well I will send you a picture of me.
Paula Begoun: Send me a picture. I want to see.
Meryl: Email you.
Paula Begoun: Oh, you know what, you can post it on my Facebook and then everyone can see how cute and young you are.
00:33:04 So what I am going to do is I am going to send you a set of my Resist products including my Weekly Resurfacing Treatment with 10% AHA and 5% AHA. Also the Resist SPF 25 sunscreen. And I want you to know – and you will get an antioxidant concentrate serum and the cleanser and the toner, which I think you will be very, very happy with. But I want you to know, just for everybody listening, there isn't any age where skincare can't make a difference.
00:33:37 People always ask me when does skincare start – when should I start using skincare products. And I go, "Birth." From the time you are born you have skin. You need to clean it. You need to keep it soft. You need to protect it from the sun. And as you get older, at any age, as long as you care about it, take care of it. So I think you will be – when you start exfoliating, and you are loading your skin up with antioxidants and you are using sunscreen on a regular basis, I think a lot of the things we think of as aging skin will look better. It's not going to make you a child.
00:34:14 So you are not going to look like you did when you were 20, but I think you will be surprised how smooth and soft you skin can be. So give it a try. Stay warm in Costa Rica and get home safe when you finally get back to New Jersey. Thank you for calling, Meryl.
Meryl: Thank you so much. I appreciate your taking my call.
Paula Begoun: Thank you, dear. Bye-bye. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Diana in California.
Paula Begoun: Hi Diana in California.
Diana: Hi Paula.
Paula Begoun: What can I do for you?
Diana: I am trying to determine what is the best antioxidant concentrate serum for me.
00:34:47 You have one in the Resist line and one that has retinol. And I don't know if I should, you know, [vary between the both], or which one is better? Because I have gone online, gone through all of the reviews, each one seems appropriately wonderful. I currently have the Resist line but am looking for the best and trying to figure out how to make that assessment.
Paula Begoun: It's hard to make that assessment.
Diana: No!
Paula Begoun: But let me tell you why, really honestly, because I do formulate all my products so I am saying this really straight. I couldn't be saying this any more –
Diana: More honestly.
Paula Begoun: More honestly – is that a word?
00:35:33 Yes, more honestly. The reason that I formulate different products is because different people can tolerate different textures and different skincare ingredients. For example, not everybody can use retinol. I can't use retinol without getting irritation so some of my products are formulated with niacinamide. Niacinamide actually has incredible research about its benefit for skin. Some people can't use niacinamide, it causes –
Diana: And that is in your Resist line?
Paula Begoun: Well actually it is in several products.
00:36:12 It's in my Skin Balancing line and in – Desiree do you remember which Resist product it is in?
Bryan Barron: It's in the Skin Recovery Antioxidant Concentrate as well. Let me double check here.
Paula Begoun: I use my Skin Balancing because of the niacinamide. In terms of what it does to the shape of the pore and also some anti-wrinkle benefits, niacinamide is – but again, not everybody can use niacinamide. It is a vitamin B derivative.
00:36:45 It can cause – the form we use shouldn't cause flushing, but for some people it can cause a reaction like niacin can on some people's skin.
Diana: I'm familiar with that.
Paula Begoun: So what I mean is I think, really, and I am not just BS'ing you. Really, I think they all are the best, it just depends which one works best for your skin given the formulation.
Diana: Okay, I'm ordering them all.
Paula Begoun: No, no!
Diana: You solved my problem.
Paula Begoun: You can definitely experiment. So which one do you have now?
Diana: I have the Resist line with the Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum.
00:37:29 But I've been reading about the retinol product and it sounds very good. I want to try that, too. But I didn't know –
Paula Begoun: No, no, I don't want you to jump. Here is what I want you to do. I want you to stay – the Resist one is very, very good.
Diana: I agree.
Paula Begoun: So I am going to send you the one that contains retinol. So as long as you are talking to me I am – but you can experiment to see which one you think feels better. But retinol, all of these antioxidant concentrates, are a long-term relationship.
00:38:07 Because antioxidants take awhile to improve cell production. It doesn't happen overnight. It is fighting a lot of sun damage, has to be used in conjunction with a sunscreen. It works a lot better when you exfoliate skin so it can get through and absorb in and get to where it needs to be in your skin to protect it and to reduce cell damage.
00:38:35 But retinol doesn't, again, some people can be sensitized to it. So I am going to send you – I'm sorry –
Diana: The retinol I do not have. I was considering trying it – I do not have that one yet.
Paula Begoun: I am going to send you that one.
Diana: Oh great, thank you!
Paula Begoun: So are you using the Resist Antioxidant Toner?
00:38:55 Are you using the –
Diana: Oh, yeah, the toner. I've got a lot of problems with that. The toner – I just breakout like crazy from it. So I have been using it on my body which is great.
Paula Begoun: The Resist Toner?
Diana: Yes. I use it on my arms and my legs, I swear.
Paula Begoun: You know, it makes my face break out, too.
00:39:14 So that is why I use my Skin Balancing. See, that is what it is, really is that I think the Resist Toner is – I know it is, I made it – it is brilliantly formulated. I'm very proud of it.
Diana: Yes it is. Agreed.
Paula Begoun: But for me with my kind of skin type, it makes me break out, which really ticks me off.
Diana: I have to admit that you look fabulous, Paula, for your age. I would never believe – you look like you are in your 20s and 30s. And I have to congratulate you on really promoting your products through an absolutely gorgeous complexion. So congratulations.
Desiree Stordahl: Aw!
Diana: Very, very impressed.
Paula Begoun: I feel like crying. Thank you.
00:39:51 So what I am going to do is I am going to send you my toner from my Skin Balancing line that has niacinamide in it among many other antioxidants.
Diana: Great.
Paula Begoun: I think you will have better luck with that. So give those a try. There isn't a best. There are a lot of great options and you just need to experiment like you are doing, exactly what you just said you did with the toner. And it is interesting that you decided to use it on other parts of your body. I've been using it on my chest.
Diana: I love, especially on my legs.
Paula Begoun: You are so good.
00:40:22 All right, Diana, give those a shot. You will let us know how you are doing and thank you for reading the reviews and saying I look so adorable. Take care, Diana. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Beau from Ohio.
Paula Begoun: Beau, is that a guy or a girl?
Beau: A girl.
Paula Begoun: You do, you sound like a girl. How are you, Beau?
Beau: I'm fine, how are you?
Paula Begoun: I'm good, what can I do for you?
Beau: Well I saw a dermatologist and I am thinking about maybe getting a couple of procedures on down the road. But I would kind of like to delay it as long as I possibly can. And what I have – I have little tiny lines, not from my nose to my outer lip.
00:41:12 I think that's the nasal labial folds.
Paula Begoun: The nasal labial folds which we are now calling Parentheses Folds. So go on.
Beau: I don't really have a problem there so much. My little tiny lines head downward from the corner of my lips kind of down into my pin area. And they are not very big at all, they are just little teeny, tiny. But, when I saw the dermatologist they said that they would probably start with something like Juvederm or Restylane and plump up that little area.
Paula Begoun: Right.
Beau: So it's a little scary.
00:41:52 And I thought, well, I would like to delay this.
Paula Begoun: So let's start – first tell me how old you are.
Beau: I'm 57 years old. Yikes!
Paula Begoun: I can't believe you are whispering that. If you whisper it you are younger? You are so cute.
Beau: I'm sorry. 57.
Paula Begoun: I know, it's a scary number. I'm 58. Well actually I'm 57. I'll be 58. So I will, god-willing, I will be 58.
00:42:26 I know it's a scary number. I hate this little period of time is just so bizarre. I can barely relate to that number. Whatever I thought being in my late 50s was going to be, it's just too weird. It is just –
Beau: So here's the thing – from 40 to 57, shoots off like a rocket. I mean it is just…it seems like yesterday I was 39. And actually it was yesterday, so.
Paula Begoun: I know, it was for me, too. So, here is what it is. Let's talk about this. What struck me when you started asking your question is you said you want to put it off for as long as possible. So I will talk to you about skincare – are you using my products? Whose products are you using, Beau?
Beau: I do use a lot of your products.
00:43:18 And I do have to tell you one quick thing. I am lucky; genetically I have really good skin. And I have had people stop me and ask me what I use on my skin. So I have given out your website to at least a half dozen people who have never heard of Paula's Choice. And I found you by accident because one time I was at the library looking for books for business women and I accidentally came upon "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me."
00:43:51 And that started this whole journey.
Paula Begoun: So let's go back. Thank you. Let's go back to the original thing you said that caught my attention which is I want to put it off for as long as possible. And so what I take when women say that is they don't want surgery and they don't want procedures. They just don't want to – like you just said – it's scary. I want to put it off as long as possible.
00:44:16 And so I think what we do because we are scared, and I understand being scared. I completely relate to that. But putting it off, I think, actually ends up cheating – as long as you can afford it – actually ends up cheating how good you can feel about yourself and how young you can look. Because while I do think there are a lot of things you can do with skincare, there are limited things you can do. And if you can afford it and you think you have found a great dermatologist, for the lines you are describing assuming you are using an exfoliant, a sunscreen and products loaded with antioxidants and maybe a retinol product or a Retin-A, a product that has the active prescription form of vitamin A like in Renova or Retin-A or one of those.
00:45:08 Assuming you are doing everything you can skincare wise, what a cosmetic dermatologist or plastic surgeon can do when injecting materials into the skin like Juvederm and Restylane, I mean there are so many – different doctors use different materials. I don't get why to put it off because there are only so many years left and I want to look young for as many of them as I can.
00:45:37 As long as you are considering it, and again it is not a financial issue and you have found a good dermatologist, you know I would consider just going for it. Especially with materials like Juvederm and Restylane where there is little to no risk of allergic reaction and it doesn't last forever. You can always tell the doctor to under-fill, not overfill, because sometimes they overfill. You can talk to them about the way you want it to look.
00:46:12 And work with them on it because the sooner you start doing it, because they don't last forever, so you have got to get it redone. Depending on the filler it can be as short as six months but it can go as long as 18 months. The filler I have actually is a longer term filler that I have had done. You know, I would just consider – I would just consider doing it. You know, people say to me, because I am trying to put off surgery and then I tell people I am doing these other things to put off surgery.
00:46:50 To me that is far scarier than injections and Botox and that kind of lasers and that kind of stuff. And they will say to me inevitably, oh, you don't need a facelift. What do you need that for? And I'm thinking, what, am I supposed to wait until you say, "Your skin is hanging down to your chest. Go get a facelift!" I mean what does it mean to need it?
00:47:14 Of course I don't need it. Nobody needs a facelift. It depends on when you want to start experiencing that benefit. So that is –
Beau: I think it is just the first time. It is just like jumping off the high dive.
Paula Begoun: I know. I remember the first time I got Botox I was completely flipped out. The little tiny injections – it's so weird – because you are getting the injections on your frontal bone, it's on your forehead so it is on the frontal bone there, and because it is so close to your auditory pathway, how you hear in the world, you actually – I'm going to say this to people who are just going to flip out.
00:47:55 You actually hear the injection going in. You can kind of hear a [injection sound] because it is so close to your ear. You can hear it differently than say when you get an injection for something in your arm which you don't hear it going into your skin. It's weird. It's so weird. Actually that part is still weird. But, you know, it is a leap. You are right, Beau, it's a leap. So, having said that, if you are already using – and again I am going to flatter myself and say my products because I know how they are formulated.
00:48:27 They are gentle, they are not irritating your skin. They contain antioxidants. You are exfoliating your skin. You are using sunscreen. You are doing pretty much – you have a healthy diet. You are not smoking, especially for the lines around the lower part of your face. You are not getting second hand smoke, which all of those things make a huge difference in terms of how your skin looks.
00:48:53 You know the research about diet improving collagen production and how the skin plumps and how it maintains its hydration and all of that is not drinking water. There is actually no research about drinking water. But a healthy diet in terms of antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids that you get from fish. I mean, if you are doing all of those things, I would just go get that Juvederm and Restylane, talk it over with your doctor and give it a shot.
00:49:25 I think –
Beau: Take the leap, yeah.
Paula Begoun: I mean you are 57 years old. I would – I think you are there.
Beau: [Unintelligible] between now and the big 6-0, I owe it to myself.
Paula Begoun: I think that if you can afford it. And again, it's not that you need it. Nobody needs this stuff. But if the idea is that you want to look younger, this is a major consideration that you need to weigh out with your doctor.
00:50:04 So, Beau, tell me what products of Paula's Choice you are using or you are considering that you want to use and let me get you some.
Beau: Okay, thank you. I have normal-to-dry skin. I love and have been using the Skin Recovery Cleanser and Toner. And then I have kind of played a little bit with the serums. I have used the Skin Recovery serum which I have loved.
00:50:35 I also tried the Resist. So I kind of like both of those. I think I might like the Skin Recovery just a tad better. I did try the AHA 5% lotion with the 10%. Now the 10% is a little too strong for me unless I put it on and don't leave it on for very long and then rinse it off. But the 5% AHA in the Resist line, I like that for the day. I would like a gentle BHA for like every other day or every third day.
00:51:08 I accidentally got the gel, the 1% gel, and it is a tiny bit strong for me.
Paula Begoun: Ah, well it could be that you are doing a little…okay, so here is what I would like you to do. So if you are using the 5% every day, I don't want you to –
Beau: I typically do that in the morning.
Paula Begoun: If you are doing that every day, Beau I don't want you also doing the BHA.
00:51:43 On the days you are doing the 5% you don't do the BHA. On the days you are doing the BHA you don't do the 5%. It's one or the other.
Beau: [Unintelligible]
Paula Begoun: Oh, don't use them at the same time when you have sensitive skin. Some people can tolerate that but not everybody for sure. So if you wanted to rotate between the two, then you do it on an every other day or every two days. You play with how you think you get benefit from it.
Beau: Is it okay to do AHA during the day and BHA at night?
Paula Begoun: No, too much. Over done, overkill.
00:52:20 You only have so much skin. By the way, some people can tolerate that depending on the kind of sun damage they have. It doesn't sound to me like you have that kind of sun damage or acne. So that would be way too much given the health of your skin. So rotate between the 5% and the BHA on alternate days. And then once a week or once every ten days let's say, don't use either and at night try the 10%. Leave it on for 10 minutes. 10-10. I always say that is a good way to judge it. And rinse it off
00:52:56 It is just fine to rinse it off and then follow up with your other skincare products. You don't have to leave the 10% -- now a lot of people leave the 10% on and get incredible benefit. But some skin types can't and that is on the instructions that one of the options is to put it on and just rinse it off. That little bit of extra exfoliation when you have sun damage – you might get benefit for that around your mouth, although I don't want to tell you to run away from your dermatologist. I do want you to experiment with that.
00:53:29 I am going to send you my Resist Cleanser and Resist Toner. I would like you to give those a try. I am going to send you my Resist Hydrator. It is a different consistency than my other moisturizers. It is kind of a unique little product. I would like you to give that a try and see how you do. And you do have the 10% AHA, you still have that one, right?
Beau: I do. In fact, what I started doing with it was putting it on the back of my hands because it was a little strong for my face. But that has really made the back of my hands look really nice.
Paula Begoun: I can't believe you are so good about that. I was just complaining—
00:54:09 No really, it's so funny. I have been very good about the skin from the neck up. And somewhat good about the skin on my chest. But I have been terrible about the skin on my arms and hands. I am sitting there with the BHA in my hand, which I have been using religiously since I made that product, my 2% BHA liquid. And I know I should be wiping it on the back of my hands and arms. And I don't do it. I can't believe you are being so smart about it.
00:54:43 I am so impressed.
Beau: I always do that with anything that is left over. And years ago I remember a gentleman said he didn't guess a person's age by their face, he looked at their face and their hands.
Paula Begoun: And I want you to know, what you are doing is exactly what I strongly recommend – I don't always listen to myself – but what I strongly recommend. Whatever you are doing for your face, when it comes to skincare, the hands, the arms and the chest and the neck deserve the same attention and they don't require different products.
00:55:25 Don't cheat your arms, don't cheat your chest, don't cheat your hands. What you are doing is perfect, Beau. Beau, I've got to go, I'm going to take the next caller, but thank you for calling dear. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: Next caller is Melanie from New York.
Paula Begoun: Hi Melanie from New York.
Melanie: Hi Paula, how are you?
Paula Begoun: Good. What can I do for you dear?
Melanie: Well, I'm kind of frustrated. I'm trying to get rid of sunspots on my face. A few years ago I had a dermatologist who removed one sunspot that was on my face.
00:56:05 It was gone for awhile and then that came back with multiple small ones surrounding it. So now I am always covering it up with concealer. But I'm new to your line. It comes highly recommended to me. And the products I have been using are actually making my skin breakout, so I am at a loss for what to do.
Paula Begoun: You have to return those, because that is not good. And you don't have to mail them back. Just call my customer service and tell them they are making you breakout and they will give you a refund. So Melanie, tell me what products you are using of mine that didn't work for you.
Melanie: Actually Paula, I haven't tried any of your products yet. I'm completely new to your --
Paula Begoun: Oh!
Melanie: Yeah, to the whole skincare.
Paula Begoun: So whose products made you breakout?
Melanie: So I have been using what I believed were good products.
00:57:03 I've used Ole Henriksen. Did I say that correctly?
Paula Begoun: Yes, you said that correctly.
Melanie: Okay, Ole Henriksen, and then Murad. And I also just recently got a Clarisonic, the little Mia thing that you can use to scrub. So I have been using those products. I think the Ole Henriksen was what was --
Paula Begoun: Oh, I am so certain the Ole Henriksen. There are so many problems. First of all, you need to go to and look up the products that you are using. Bryan, did we review any of Ole Henriksen's products? I think those got unhappy faces across the board.
Melanie: Oh they did? Interesting.
Paula Begoun: I think we lost Bryan.
00:57:46 Bryan is not there. But yes, go to and look them up. But here is what I want you to do Melanie, because I just have limited time left, so here is what I am going to have you do. Tell me your skin type?
Melanie: My skin type is combination. Definitely combination.
Paula Begoun: Okay, it might not be combination but it is too long of a discussion right now. Often we cause our own skin type because we are using products that are too heavy and greasy or too drying, contain alcohol, essential oils and irritate it. So sometimes we don't even know what our skin type is because the products we are using are causing our problems. So here is what I am going to do.
00:58:25 I'm going to send you my Skin Balancing group of products along with my 1% BHA gel. That's all I have time to explain. I think your skin will love them. If you have any problems you call my customer service department or they will get you to me. But I have to go.
Melanie: I am so excited to talk to you. I listen to you every week. So I will continue to listen, try them, and I will try to get back in touch with you to let you know how they go.
Paula Begoun: Yes, call us back. Absolutely we will take your call. Call us back after you have experimented them and we will try to help you.
00:58:58 Thank you for calling, dear. Melanie, you take care.
Melanie: Thank so much, Paula. Thanks so much.
Paula Begoun: Bye-bye. All right, I have to go. I'm Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, keeping you Beautifully Informed with my Paula's Choice Research Team – Desiree Stordahl and Bryan Barron. Come visit us at Look up some of the products we have been talking about tonight and actually every week and see the reviews we have there.
00:59:24 Next week we are going to be talking about the six skincare products that will make wrinkles worse. Actually will make acne worse, wrinkles worse, Rosacea worse. We are going to get you away from the products that are hurting your skin. On the 22nd, we are hoping to talk to Deborah Enos about beauty foods, what are the foods you can eat that make skin beautiful. And on the 29th, we are going to go over our favorite makeup bargains, the best bang for your buck for makeup. Thank you for listening. We will talk to you next week. Take care.
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