Anti-Aging Makeup Tricks in Your 30s, 40s, 50s & Beyond

Airdate: 11/03/11

Paula and her research team share must-know makeup tips that will make you look younger and even more beautiful! Find out what you should change and what you should try, plus get tips for youthful-looking foundation and a radiant glow at any age. Learn anti-aging makeup tips for lip color, blush, brows, gray hair, and more.

Paula Begoun: Good evening. This is Paula Begoun. I'm the Cosmetics Cop, "Keeping you Beautifully Informed," here on our BlogTalkRadio Show, Paula's Choice BlogTalkRadio Show. And tonight it is just me and Desiree Stordahl, my assistant and producer for BlogTalkRadio, because Bryan Barron who heads up the Paula's Choice Research Team is on his honeymoon.
00:00:32 He and Ben are off in New Orleans celebrating...actually they got married awhile back. And so they just got off on their honeymoon now. Desiree, are they there?
Desiree Stordahl: Yeah. And I actually just got a text message from Bryan wishing us good luck for the show and telling everyone hello. They are on a steamboat cruise listening to jazz right now. So I'm a little bit jealous to say the least.
Paula Begoun: Let's all go on a steamboat and...okay, no, no, we are not leaving.
00:01:01 We are doing...I want to apologize. I didn't make it to the show - I was fine, I'm all healthy and well - but my elective cosmetic surgery took me a little bit more to recuperate than I had - it always takes more than you think to recuperate. So I just didn't have the energy. And it just was so upsetting; there was so much to talk about.
00:01:28 I have a lot to catch up on. But tonight what we are going to be talking about...well actually, tonight, this is a global show so it is just about any time in the world that you might be listening to us. And, of course, you can be listening to us archived. You can listen to any of our shows that we have been doing for the...it's two years? Desiree, did we start this two years ago?
Desiree Stordahl: Yeah, it's been about two years now.
Paula Begoun: In January?
Desiree Stordahl: Mm-hmm, in January of 2010.
Paula Begoun: Woo-hoo! So you can always go to PaulasChoice.com and hook up to BlogTalkRadio and listen to any of our past shows archived and check in to see what we have been talking about. But tonight we are going to be talking about anti-aging makeup tricks for just about any age, really.
00:02:20 Because, in the long run, my little favorite saying is, people will say, well when should you start doing skincare? When should you start doing anti-aging skincare? When should I start fighting wrinkles? And my answer is you start fighting aging when you are born because from the time you are born you are aging. And the major thing, and I know it is so boring, nobody likes hearing this - the major thing is about not getting sun damage. And if you can start doing that for your...now obviously if you are listening to me right now you are way past baby age, but for the children in your life, for the babies in your life, to help them not get sun damage.
00:03:04 And everything you can do...we have a lot of information on PaulasChoice.com. This is a fundamental philosophy. Actually it is not a philosophy. It's just the research. It's just what the facts show is that sun damage is the primary thing that causes wrinkles and makes our skin look older. It isn't just aging; it isn't just growing older. I mean not that growing older doesn't play a role, but there is no way that anybody would ever look as old had they been good about sun protection most, if not all, of their lives.
00:03:34 So that is like right up there. So you have to think about that from the get-go, not just, and you can ask me, you can call. Call with your questions; I want to hear from you. You would dial 347-426-3783. And Desiree, where can they email or chat with us to ask questions, aside from calling in and asking questions?
Desiree Stordahl: They can pose questions on our Facebook page. That would be the best way to do it.
Paula Begoun: Actually, oh wait a second. I don't want to lose my train of thought. Okay, I just did. I just lost my train of thought.
00:04:11 What was I going to say? Again, I just lost my train of thought.
Desiree Stordahl: I'm not sure where you were going.
Paula Begoun: Who knows. Well, you know when you said Facebook, about taking questions...oh, I know what I was going to say. But remind me to say something about Facebook and our upcoming shows we are going to do. Don't let me forget. But what I was going to say was one of the questions I get, and like Debbie from Idaho has a wonderful question about what should she do about small lines around the mouth.
00:04:39 And people ask all the time and they should. It's a big question. I'm turning 40, I'm turning 50, I'm turning, whatever age, I should start doing something about wrinkles. And in truth, it is not that you can't start, but it is a little late. I wish you had found me years ago. I wish I had found me years ago. Because you really can't start fighting aging too soon.
00:05:12 Because we are aging immediately - birth on, you are aging. So, ask me the question because I definitely can help. So that is why I was giving the number. 347-426-3783. And you can always go to our Paula's Choice Facebook page and ask us questions. Desiree can get those questions from you. But what I wanted to say about Facebook, I love Facebook. I am so into our conversations that we have with our friends on Facebook.
00:05:42 It's just phenomenal, the challenging questions, the interesting things and feedback and it is just wonderful. And we have contests and we do giveaways and it's the whole thing. I love my Facebook Paula's Choice community. But what I could really use help with - I always need help. Everyone needs help. It takes a village.
00:06:05 We really want to know what BlogTalkRadio show topics would you like us to cover. So, for example next week on November 10 we are going to be talking about targeted solutions for spider veins, cellulite, chest rejuvenation and a lot more. But particularly cellulite. We are really going to tackle the dimples on your thighs and see if we can come up with the best solutions possible that are available, that really can make a difference.
00:06:38 None of the crazy stuff that's out there that is a waste of your money and a waste of your time. And then on the 17th we are going to talk about what your skin problem might be telling you about your health. Is it a cosmetic problem that you are having or is it perhaps something else in terms of what is going on inside of you, maybe something deeper, some deeper problems, some superficial problem that you just don't necessarily know what you are looking at. So that is what we are going to talk about on the 17th. But, for upcoming shows, and we have lots of ideas and we are going to be creating new, interesting topics for you.
00:07:17 But we would love to know what it is you want us to talk about. So, if you can come to Paula's Choice Facebook page, bring your friends with you because we want to hear from them, too, what they would like us to talk about. Come on down! Come let us know what it is you want us to chat about with you while we are doing BlogTalkRadio, "Keeping you Beautifully Informed." And so there is always a handful of rants I have to do in the beginning. I just have to get things off my chest.
00:07:48 So one of the, of course the crazy ads on the internet. There are a lot of wonderful things on the internet. I think I am one of them, I think PaulasChoice.com is one of the wonderful things on the internet. But there is a new type of marketing of skincare products that just took my breath away. I just - it's a state of the art level of chicanery, of lying, I don't know lying. Well, yeah, lying. Deception that really took it to a new height. I think, was this you, Desiree, or Bryan who sent me this page that looks like I have come to a TV channel?
00:08:34 Was that you or --?
Desiree Stordahl: It was Bryan. But you showed me it today. And it is scary how realistic it looks.
Paula Begoun: It looks like when you are looking at it that you are looking at a TV station's web page, website. It has a nav bar that makes it sound like there's world information. Now they don't click anywhere, but you don't know that looking at it. And it says, "As seen on CNN and ABC." And it looks like you are looking at a real news story that has been around on other news channels.
00:09:11 And this news station is telling it to you. And it turns out that this whole thing is a sham ad for some anti-wrinkle cream. It is shocking. It is shocking how...there is no way this is a TV station. Has nothing to do with a TV station. Nothing clicks through. The people up there looking like they are the anchors aren't real anchors. But then the other thing they do...
00:09:42 So I'm looking at this on my...I'm at home, and where I live, it knows where I'm sitting. So when I was at our office in Seattle, it said, as if the news story came from Seattle. Now that I have changed locations and clicked back on it, it says that the story is now from where I am right now in a different location. So it knows to follow me. So it looks like it is happening in my neighborhood. Can you believe?
Desiree Stordahl: How conniving.
Paula Begoun: I just...and then the before and after pictures, these are -
Desiree Stordahl: Completely out of whack.
Paula Begoun: Oh, I don't even know...you know the sad thing is, what always drives me crazy about this is there are people who believe this. There are just people who believe this.
00:10:40 Okay, so, a few more rants because I am going to rant a little bit more on-topic because we are talking about anti-aging makeup tricks for every decade. So, fashion magazines are often a great place for makeup tips. Really. And some really great ones. And often some really stupid ones. And so before I can give you the great ones, let me give you a couple of the really ridiculous ones.
00:11:13 So they were talking...the only thing according to this makeup artist, this in an article from Harper's Bazaar last month; the only thing that can hide wrinkles and refine pores is primer. I have...and of course just this particular one brand out of the thousands of products out there. Only one. Couldn't be further from the truth. First of all, you can't hide wrinkles. There is no way to tuck them behind something and make them go away. If anything, what you can do with some primers, depending on how they are formulated, is smooth them out, temporarily smooth them out.
00:11:50 And that's fine. And that's great. But they don't hide them. They are not the only way to do it. There are actually some foundations that are actually formulated to do that. There are actually some moisturizers to do that. But not all primers are created equal that have this smoothing effect. One of the ones we recommend that you try, and again, it isn't fool proof.
00:12:13 And Debbie from Idaho, if you wanted to give this a try, Tri-Aktiline. Am I pronouncing that right, Desiree? The one that is at Kohl's from their...oh, what line is that from? Tri-Aktiline from...
Desiree Stordahl: I will look it up on Beautypedia.
Paula Begoun: Okay, so definitely there are some primers that can do that. Not all primers are created equal. That's just...so not all primers. It's not the only thing. And then another comment here, recommendation, was to use a foundation brush to control your application and create a thin layer of coverage when you need it.
00:12:54 And actually Bryan is very fond of a foundation brush. I actually prefer a sponge. Some people prefer fingers. I generally recommend you find a technique that gets your foundation on smooth, even and beautiful. What works for you is always the best, assuming you look in the mirror, and out in daylight, and you look smooth, beautiful, glossy, dewy, smooth and even.
00:13:20 But if you are wearing a foundation with sunscreen, and that is your only sunscreen, a pressed powder with sunscreen, or a loose powder with sunscreen and that is your source of sunscreen, you cannot apply a thin layer because you will not be taking care of your skin. And that would be a very dangerous thing. So that recommendation about use a foundation brush to control your application and create a thin layer of coverage where you need it is a good one if that foundation is not your source of sun protection.
00:13:53 The other thing, oh, I know...oh god, there is so much to talk about. I'm sorry.
Desiree Stordahl: And I figured out the brand. It's the Good Skin Labs brand.
Paula Begoun: Good Skin Labs brand. Right. It's an Estee Lauder brand that is available, owned by Estee Lauder that is available at Kohl's Department Store. And that primer absolutely helps smooth out wrinkles. And Clinique has one. We have many lifted - well not many, there's really just a handful of these that are spackle like products to smooth out, temporarily smooth out wrinkles on Beautypedia.com that you can look up.
00:14:31 Another comment from this article in Harper's Bazaar was that to combat a loss of facial volume, I don't know if you have lost a lot of weight and your face is looking gaunt as you get older, I guess, is what they mean, is use bronzer on your cheekbones, forehead and chin and use pink or apricot blush on your cheeks. I'm actually not quite sure what that's about, but you have to be very careful when you are using bronzer to highlight around your face because it is really easy to look like you just placed your blush wrong and you missed your face.
00:15:10 And you don't volumize the face by...usually bronzer and brown type colors are used for contouring under the cheekbone which makes the face look gaunter, not fuller, if anything. If you want your face to look fuller you would not use contour. I don't get what that comment was about. Another one, this is a little less about makeup and a little bit more about skincare, but these three just drove me crazy.
00:15:40 The comment was, and the quote is supposed to be from dermatologist Patricia Wexler who has her own skincare line. She is a dermatologist, a Manhattan dermatologist. Maybe they quoted her wrong. I don't know. But she says in this article from Harper's Bazaar that you are supposed to refrigerate skincare products after opening them. You will get more of a lifting effect from your products if they are cold.
00:16:06 Please do not do that. It doesn't work for nail polish. It just makes nail polish a thick lumpy mess. It definitely doesn't work for skincare products. As a matter of fact, when formulators, when people like me are developing products, one of the ways we try to wreck the product, to see if it will remain stable is we put it in really high heat or really we put it in refrigerators in really cold temperatures to see how they break down.
00:16:33 Because high heat and extreme cold breaks products down. It doesn't stabilize them. It doesn't help anything. I have no idea what that comment is about but if you want to wreck your skincare products, put them in the refrigerator. Another thing that is supposed to be from Dr. Wexler, which I am just so hoping that they quoted her wrong, you have to take our makeup off before you go to bed. And ,yes, you do, because leaving makeup on around your eyes makes eyes puffy, is irritating. Dark circles. It's just bad for the face, clogs pores, all of that.
00:17:11 So, yes, you need to get your makeup off, but the other thing she says, or is supposedly quoted. Please, I hope you didn't really say this, is to wash away free radicals. So, when you wash away free radicals it prevents the breakdown of collagen. You can't wash away free radicals. Free radicals don't exist as something you can touch and feel and hold. They are tiny little ions. They are electrons. They are part of molecular molecules that have chain reactions in the skin. You can't grab them and tug them and wipe them away.
00:17:53 What a bizarre, bizarre thing to say. And then another doctor is quoted as saying, I can't believe this. I didn't think people really said this anymore, but "lemon juice diluted with water helps fade sun spots on all skin tones." Where? No it doesn't. there isn't a shred of research anywhere in the water. People have trying to do that with their skin for decades. Black women, women of color have been trying to do that, nobody has gotten lighter.
00:18:25 It doesn't fade anything. What a - oh, sorry, all right. I just - do not use lemon on your face. Lemon is irritating. Lemon dries the skin. Just like grapefruit, just like peppermint, just like menthol. Irritates. Causes collagen to break down. It has no benefit for skin in any way, shape or form. Okay, let's talk about the good stuff to do. Desiree, you took a makeup class down in Los Angeles.
Desiree Stordahl: Chicago.
Paula Begoun: Oh, sorry, Chicago.
Desiree Stordahl: Yeah, and actually the woman who was my instructor, her name is Kathy Aragon. She is head of makeup at CNN. So she definitely works on some mature skin and has some great tips to give us for makeup as you are aging.
00:19:15 So one of the tips I really liked from her was about not making skin matte all over. You want the skin to have some sort of glow to it. So she said to just powder your oily areas, like the corners of your nose, the chin, above the lip, maybe your forehead, but she said to leave the line down your nose unpowdered. And you can dust off the end of your nose, if you want, but it kind of gives you a natural...it lets your natural radiance show through, I guess.
00:19:44 And also she was really big on not using heavy makeup as you age. When your skin is getting wrinkly, that is only going to make it look more caked on and just emphasize those wrinkles. So, she was big on that. Another thing she said was to try a blush stain with a light layer of powder blush over it. And blush stains don't work on everyone, but if your skin can hold up well with those it looks less cakey and just kind of has a pretty look to it that stays put throughout the day. Another one you touched on earlier was when you contour --
Paula Begoun: Wait, Desiree, the thing about the blush stains and cream blushes in general is they work best on something with normal skin because they tend to stain inside the pore because they are fluid, they move.
00:20:31 And so if you have open pores and if you have any clogged pores, they kind of pick up the wax, oil in the pore and they can look like you've got little dots of color, pink or blush color in the pore. Or dry skin, it can pick up dead, dry skin. So it really works best for somebody with normal skin. And it can be a lovely way to put on blush. But go on, I'm sorry I interrupted. What were you going to say?
Desiree Stordahl: Oh, no, that's fine.
00:21:02 The one that you touched on before, when contouring the cheeks or contouring your face in general, just don't go too overboard. Just do it lightly if you are going to do it at all, but you don't want to give yourself more of a gaunt look, especially when you are dealing with mature skin. One I really liked was if you have droopy eyes, make the line of your eyeliner swoop up about three-fourths of the way down so that is like the outer lid area. That is where you want it to swoop up. And then you make it meet at the outer corners.
00:21:33 So you start the swoop and then meet it at the outer corners. And you always want to use lifting up strokes with your shadow. So you are kind of swooping the brush up as opposed to down or just straight across. Another one I thought was really good was if you have droopy bags under your eyes. If you are going to line the bottom lashes, at all, make sure you do it right at the lash line. Otherwise you are going to be emphasizing that droopiness, that under-eye area that is drooping already.
00:22:03 You don't want to bring more attention to it. So, if anything, either don't line it or just do it right at the lash line. And, my last one that was a good one from Kathy was that everyone, almost everyone, looks good with an eye shadow design that is darker on the outer third and then gradually transitions to a lighter shade towards the middle and the inner corner.
00:22:27 And the inner corner would be the only area I would say would be suggested to use some sort of shimmer on a mature eye lid, somebody with a little bit of wrinkling and fine lines. I would say you could put a little bit of shimmer in there, but for the rest of your eye it is best to keep it matte, to deemphasize those wrinkles.
Paula Begoun: So we are not going to use the word "mature" anymore because there is no such skin type as mature. We are taking that off the table. But, the thing about have makeup look beautiful is really about temperance, I guess, for lack of a better word. So there is a fine line between overdoing and under-doing.
00:23:11 And where you are overdo and where you under-do at any age is going to either make you look older or make you look, well I guess for lack of a better word, silly. So for example, foundation and powder needs to be used sparingly, unless of course that that powder or foundation is your sunscreen. That means you want to be...if you are going to take time to buy anything, you want to take time to buy foundation. Please go to Beautypedia.com. Take a look at our recommendations for beautiful foundations.
00:23:45 Doesn't have to be expensive. Maybelline has some gorgeous foundations. Neutrogena has. I mean there are so many wonderful foundations out there. The trick is to get the right color and then apply it beautifully. And Desiree's comment about not powdering all over, so you don't create this heavy all-over matte look, but let the glow, meaning whatever - actually glow is a funny word - radiance, a little bit of shine, a little bit of your natural oil or whatever moisturizer you put on to come through at the top of your cheekbone, center of your forehead, down the center of your nose, center of your chin, can be lovely.
00:24:21 Don't overdo shine. At any age, shine that is dripping onto your clothes and dripping onto your cheeks from your eyes, it just looks silly. It just looks out of place. You wear a sequin dress and you are dropping your sequins behind you. When you place shine on your face it needs to be subtle shimmer unless you are trying to do some special effect at nighttime.
00:24:48 When you try on foundation or concealer and you have any lines around your eyes, you always want to double check in very good light and with a very good magnifying mirror whether or not that is slipping into the lines around your eyes. When foundation and concealer goes into the lines around your eyes, at any age, it is going to make you look - it is just not going to look beautiful .
00:25:15 And the goal is to look beautiful. Be wary of super matte foundations and be wary of super greasy foundations. Just because you have dry skin doesn't mean you need a greasy foundation because that is more likely to move into the lines. If you have oily skin, if you use a super mate foundation, especially if you have any lines on your face, it is going to pop and make the lines more obvious. When you apply blush, the major trick with blush is to keep it so you don't look like you have a line of blush and most women are afraid of bringing the blush too far forward, but cheat to go a little further forward to the apple, when you smile the round part.
00:25:58 You don't want to have round dots there. But don't stop...for some reason, and I don't quite know where this got started, that you are supposed to blush behind that. Maybe it is because a lot of women just made two big circle dots in that area. But the full apple just allows a brighter, rich glow to where blush would really be. That is actually where you really blush when you blush. It is from the center of the face, out.
Desiree Stordahl: Paula, what blush were you wearing the other day that was shining through. It had a really nice radiance to it. What was that?
Paula Begoun: It was a Revlon.
00:26:33 But you know, and I can't remember...we will post on Facebook exactly what product it was. It was lovely. And you know, I broke it. I dropped it....I know. And then I wore that matte color and it just wasn't as nice, because it was flat. It's just because I am wearing the more natural look now, because I'm not wearing as much foundation. I'm wearing minimal makeup.
00:27:00 And that little bit of a glow...it wasn't glittery, right? It just had a nice shimmer to it. It was like six bucks.
Desiree Stordahl: It was beautiful.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, it was nice. I can't remember which one.
Desiree Stordahl: We'll post it on Facebook.
Paula Begoun: I also have a Maybelline one I'm going to try. But Maybelline, just to let everybody know, Maybelline which is a L'Oreal company and Cover Girl and Revlon, all at the drugstore just have some gorgeous, gorgeous blushes.
00:27:32 I mean if there is some definite areas where you don't have to spend a lot of money it is makeup. I mean that is 100% for sure. Brows, don't over-tweeze your brows and don't overdo them. There is no way a pencil line going across your brow looks like an eyebrow. It's not natural. Don't over-tweeze and don't overdo. Don't be afraid of mascara. Sometimes you will read that you only put on one or two coats. Put on six, seven or eight. Just make sure you use one of the ones either from Paula's Choice or one of the ones we recommend on Beautypedia.
00:28:09 So you brush through your lashes so they are not clumping. You need a nice clean, spooly wand from a mascara you are not using anymore to brush through and get rid of any of the clumps. But of course all of the mascaras we recommend don't clump. The brows, let me just strongly recommend, and we are going to give these away today when we take your call...when you don't have a lot of eyebrow hair, either because you are getting older, or just because a lot of women don't have a lot of eyebrow hair, you are going to build a beautiful brow, I strongly feel that the two products I created from Paula's Choice, from my line, Browlistic, which really paints on a beautiful soft, natural looking brow line that you then would fill in with my Brow Hair Tint.
00:29:03 I think that combination, you know, it is just not a very typical combination out, in fact I don't know that I know any other line that has that. And it is just a beautiful, natural way to create a brow look that works and holds up and doesn't fade and doesn't look greasy and overly drawn on. So when we take your call, if you need help with your brows we will give you one of those.
00:29:28 Thin lips, cheat slightly to the outside, but don't draw beyond the lip border because it will just look like you missed your lips when you tried to put it on. Too dark of lipstick makes small lips recede. Stay slightly brighter, slightly richer. Lip glosses don't last. They wear away. And if you are at work there is nothing professional about constantly looking or your lip gloss to reapply. A rich, creamy lipstick stays on better and then you would place your gloss over that.
00:30:03 Oh, one other thing. So Sonia Kashuk has some beautiful, beautiful makeup products, several that we recommend. And often her makeup tips are just spot on. But she had one makeup tip that just threw me that I ran into in doing some research. She recommends a technique, and I remember doing this when I was a makeup artist years ago. She calls it, so when you apply eye shadows and you are doing an eye shadow design and you are sweeping eye shadow on with beautiful brushes, because you should be using beautiful brushes, not the brushes that come with these products that you buy.
00:30:44 That you take an extra layer of powder, of loose powder or pressed powder, and lay it just under the eye, like a drop cloth, so that when you sprinkle eye shadows that get on to the rest of the eye, that fall from the eye shadow, from your eye area onto the cheeks as you are doing your eye makeup, that the powder keeps it from sticking to the face.
00:31:09 Now that is 100% true; that actually does work, that does help. But it doesn't help if you are going out in public because getting that powder off is not easy. And so you end up with an extra layer of powder where you don't really want it. Now if you are taking pictures, you are powdering all the time anyway, so it works from a professional makeup point of view, but in the real world of doing your makeup and trying to get out of the house and get to work, it just makes it look like right under your eyes you have applied too much powder.
00:31:45 So, don't do that. The best trick to not dripping pressed powder, I mean eye shadow powder from when you are applying it that falls onto the cheek is to just be sure to knock the excess of your brush. I know it makes a mess in the sink. I always use a little eye makeup remover to clean up my sink before I leave the house, but you knock the excess eye shadow off of the brush, and then apply, and that really helps.
00:32:13 And of course, keep that sponge handy with a little bit of foundation on it to pick up the eye shadows when you are done...oh, I'm out of breath.
Desiree Stordahl: Or if you are like me, you do our eye makeup first and then you kind of avert that problem because you can just wipe it right off since there is no foundation underneath there.
Paula Begoun: Oh, you do it that way?
Desiree Stordahl: Mm-hmm.
Paula Begoun: Oh, you know I know makeup artists...you know, I have never done it that way. So what Desiree is suggesting is...so you put your foundation on your eyes and around your eye area, but just not on the rest of your face until you have all of your eye makeup, eyeliner and mascara on. Is that how you do it?
Desiree Stordahl: Right.
00:32:57 I put my foundation on the eye lid area. I don't put it underneath, but I put it out to the corners where it would touch. And then I do my eye makeup. And so then whatever powder has dripped down from my eye shadow, I can just wipe that right off with my makeup remover or my toner or just with my hand. I can pretty much get it off because it is not sitting there collecting on top of the foundation.
Paula Begoun: Ooh, got it, got it.
00:33:23 Okay, all right. That is a technique. I just am never patient enough to put my foundation on in two steps. Once I am in the mode of putting on foundation I am just all in. But, yes, I do know makeup artists who do that exact same trick. Desiree, let's take our first caller.
Desiree Stordahl: All right, we have Stacey from California on the line.
Paula Begoun: Hi Stacey.
Stacey: Hello. How are you?
Paula Begoun: I'm good. How are you?
Stacey: I just want to say, huge, huge fan. Love our books. Love the website. Absolutely love, love, love Beautypedia.
Paula Begoun: Thank you.
Stacey: It helps me when I have to go to the drugstore or run into Target and pick up what I need.
00:34:06 The reason I'm calling, I'm 44 years old, I'm starting to notice my skin is very different. In my 20s I could get away with some mascara, maybe some concealer, cheap drugstore makeup, whatever. Now, I'm getting some wrinkles under the eyes, around the eyes, age spots because I used to worship the sun which I know I never do anymore. And I feel that because now with the perimenopausal thing going on and sometimes I have my own private summers, or when I have worked out it takes me forever to cool down.
00:34:45 I feel like whatever makeup I am using, like an hour later it is just soaked up. And I just look kind of grayish or I don't quite know what the coloring is but I want a more...I don't like to wear a ton of foundation or anything but I feel like I need something to brighten me up.
Paula Begoun: So, Stacey, tell me what skincare...we have to start with skincare because I'm sure. Tell me what skincare products you are using.
Stacey: Okay, I'm using drugstore stuff all through Beautypedia, but I clean with CeraVe, and I like it because it is soft. No irritation at all. Then for the day I will put the Olay Regenerist Serum on first, and then I use SPF 30 Tinted Moisturizer. That's like my base.
00:35:42 Then nighttime is the CeraVe, but then I have gotten, because I have some spots, I use the Alpha Hydrox spot lightener, the Retinol Night Rescue, and then a Neutrogena Healthy Complexion Anti-Wrinkle blah blah cream.
Paula Begoun: So the CeraVe is the cleanser you are using, right? It's their cleanser. And whose SPF 30 tinted moisturizer are you using?
Stacey: Neutrogena. Healthy Defense Daily Moisturizer.
Paula Begoun: And what part of the country do you live in?
Stacey: California.
Paula Begoun: California. Desiree, can you do me a favor and look really quickly up that SFP 30 Tinted Neutrogena Moisturizer and make sure it contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as the only sun block.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay.
Paula Begoun: So Stacey, what skin type do you think you are treating, other than having wrinkles and dullness?
Stacey: I think I have always had combo skin because now I am getting some of the wrinkling and some dryness around my eyes.
00:36:45 But I still have, you know, the nose gets oily, and the chin area. Not so much the forehead. But, not real bad. It's not like I'm greased up. But, there is a combination.
Paula Begoun: So here are a few things. Okay, so one is that to deal with the brown spots that you are getting, the alpha hydroxy - the hydroquinone product that you are using is actually not a bad product. I actually think that that is a very good idea. But the problem with the skincare routine you have is that it is lacking, how do I say this, one is that you are not exfoliating.
00:37:26 And one of the things about sun damaged skin is the outer layer of skin gets thick and the underlying layer of skin gets thin. So the collagen and elastin is breaking down underneath and all kinds of other substances are breaking down and not reproducing the way they should. And then the top layer of skin gets overproduced. If you don't get off that thickened top layer of skin, exfoliating, then all of the good ingredients you might be getting to your skin through some of these other products you are using, they don't get in, because there is too much thickness, too many built up dead layers of skin. So here is what I want you to do. I want you to stay using the CeraVe Cleanser.
00:38:07 I think that sounds fine. During the day I want you to try my Skin Balancing Toner. You will lay down a lot of skin identical ingredients and cell communicating ingredients, particularly niacinamides; that will help with the combination areas and that will also help tell skin cells to make better, healthier skin cells and more collagen. If you want to follow up with the serum, the Olay Serum, over dry areas, that is fine.
00:38:36 Do that. But also use it around your eye area as well. Don't forget to put a moisturizer around your eye. So are you using the Olay Serum around your eye as well or not?
Stacey: Yes, right underneath, yes. I don't do so much on the top. Just under.
Paula Begoun: The top counts, too. That is aging too. Put that there, too. So, Desiree, did you find the SPF 30 Tinted Moisturizer.
Desiree Stordahl: Stacey, is it called Healthy Defense SPF 30 Daily Moisturizer Light Tint?
Stacey: Yes.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay, it is an in-part zinc oxide sunscreen, Paula.
Paula Begoun: In-part zinc and then synthetic?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes, Octocrylene and Ensulizole, if I am pronouncing that right.
Paula Begoun: Yes, okay. So, I'm not wildly crazy about the one you are using but it's not bad. What I want you to add to it is Neutrogena has something they call their Pure Mineral Pressed Powder with SPF 20. I want you to dust your face lightly with that over the Neutrogena Tinted Moisturizer. You need more sunscreen and light dusting of a pressed powder over a foundation with pressed powder is a great way to do that.
00:39:48 At night I want you to try my 2% BHA lotion. You need a good exfoliant. When you use the CeraVe Cleanser, use it with a soft wash cloth so you get some of those dead skin cells off. And I think it is fine for you to continue with the retinol. Whose retinol nighttime product are you using?
Stacey: Alpha Hydrox.
Paula Begoun: Oh, theirs is good, but ROC's is better. I'm going to send you one of my products, one of my serums with retinol. And I'm also going to send you my new Resist Clear Skin Hydrator that I would like you to give a shot.
00:40:25 So we need to improve your skincare routine. I want you to try all of these products. I want you to give them two weeks. I want you to get back in touch with Desiree. Let me know how you are doing, and then tell me if you need to change your makeup routine.
Stacey: Okay. That sounds good.
Paula Begoun: I think you are not as dull as you...I think this will help you be glowing and radiant and not have to do all that much different with your makeup. All right, Stacey, take care.
Stacey: Thank you so much.
Paula Begoun: Bye-bye. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Deborah from Minnesota on the line.
Paula Begoun: Oh, Deborah from Minnesota. How is the weather up there?
Deborah: Hi, it's not too bad.
Paula Begoun: Not cold yet? No snow?
Deborah: No snow yet, which is kind of surprising.
Paula Begoun: It is.
00:41:15 I'll never forget the first time I went to Minnesota and it was late October. It was actually I think right around this time and I remember it was snowing. I thought, oh come on, this is a joke. Nobody snows in October! And they said, oh yeah, yeah, we can snow in June, it's just Minnesota. So, Deb, what can I do for you?
Deborah: Well I have been wondering if using a cream blush is considered an anti-aging makeup trick or if it is really more to do with your skin type and the texture you like?
Paula Begoun: Yeah, it's not an anti-aging trick. What's interesting about cream blush, having been reviewing products and researching the cosmetics industry for on up 30 years, I have seen cream blushes come and go.
00:42:07 And the reason, you know, powder blushes stay all the time. There are always dozens and dozens and dozens of powder blushes to choose from. But the other kinds of blushes, the ones that come in sticks and the ones that come in cream or the stains, all tend to come and go because they are just tricky to use. And they work for just a narrow skin type.
00:42:30 As I was saying before, they tend to stay in the pore, it is hard to get it on smooth and even if you have dry skin because you have to kind of rub it on. If you are putting it on over foundation, you are kind of wiping your foundation - unless you have a really good technique down, what they call stippling, where you are patting it in. You are kind of wiping off your foundation at the same time you are putting it on. So it is just a tricky product to use. But, if you have normal skin and you can practice with different techniques to get it on smooth, meaning no open poring and not too much dry skin, and definitely not oily skin because obviously it is creamy, it is just going to add creamy ingredients, making skin oilier.
00:43:11 So it's not...when you have normal skin and it looks like a soft glowing thing, that's cool. But you can make powder do the same thing. A powder blush do the same thing. The Revlon one that I was using that I need to figure out and mention what it is on Facebook, or any one of the soft glowing kind of powder blushes, especially if you don't over powder your face, you are not using powder as your makeup base.
00:43:42 A nice soft glowing, not glittery but glowing blush is as good of an "anti-aging" trick which is really just a beautiful makeup trick to look that glowy soft look. With soft pink or very pale soft apricot if you have very light skin and red hair work beautifully at, well really, at just about any age. But my absolute best anti-aging trick is to make sure that whatever makeup you are putting on, you check in the daylight and make sure you think you look young.
00:44:19 You know, it took me a long time to get this, because I have oily skin and so I always wear and have for years, until just recently, worn a super matte foundation. But you know, when you have wrinkles and crepey skin and you wear super matte foundations to absorb oil, it makes wrinkles look worse. And I thought, I saw it in the mirror, I could see without makeup I didn't have so many wrinkles, and with makeup I did. But it helped soak up my oil. But I was in a dilemma. I was in a dilemma. So, really, talk to the mirror, let the mirror talk to you.
00:45:02 What you see is what someone else sees. So your best anti-aging trick is if you think you look younger in the mirror, you probably do. So take that mirror outside and look at yourself. Deborah, tell me your skin type so I can send you some Paula's Choice products.
Deborah: My skin tends to be dry and especially going into winter I have pretty serious seasonal dryness usually.
Paula Begoun: How old are you, Deb?
Deborah: I am 44.
Paula Begoun: I love that age. So, Deb, what skincare products are you using?
Deborah: Well I'm strictly using Paula's Choice and I have to say my seasonal dryness is much, much better than before I started using your products.
00:45:45 I'm using the Moisture Boost Cleanser. I kind of switch around with toners. Right now I just started using the Skin Recovery again. And I have some of the 1%, I think, BHA lotion.
Paula Begoun: That's perfect. Are you using any of my serums?
Deborah: Yes, I'm not good about using it as consistently as I should.
00:46:19 But I have the Resist one.
Paula Begoun: How old is it? Because not consistent means you might not be going...it doesn't last forever. Because it is so rich in antioxidants. How long have you had it?
Deborah: I don't really remember. I'm bad about that.
Paula Begoun: Then it is too long. Okay, so here is what I am going to do. It's not that you have to be good or bad about using Resist, but particularly during seasonal dryness, the thing about the Resist Super Antioxidant Serum is that the way it is formulated with the silicone and the antioxidants and the repairing ingredients - at night it just will make all the difference in the world. And I am going to send you my Resist Toner for seasonal dryness because it is a little richer than the Skin Recovery Toner.
00:47:10 But you can experiment. Maybe use one during the day and the other one at night because they kind of deliver different ingredients to the skin. And then the best trick of all if you find, particularly when I know how cold it can get there, that you still need something more than the serum and the toner and what the moisturizer is giving your skin. What I want you to consider doing is using a little olive oil. Olive oil has incredible, beautiful fatty acids and is a good anti-oxidant all by itself.
00:47:45 And I know you are going to smell a little bit like a Caesar Salad, but it is okay, just use a very, very little bit over dry areas. And I am also going to send you my Lip and Body Balm. Keep that on the side of your bed before you go to bed. Make sure you go to bed every night with this on your lips. After you are done kissing, put it on. Because you are not going to get back up and get out of bed, and go find your lip balm. Keep it next to your bed. I keep mine right there and I put them on me, I put them on my boyfriend, and we go to bed.
00:48:20 Although you can kiss and put it back on him, too; just put a lot on so you both have enough. So, definitely don't leave your lips naked at night. You won't have chapped lips all winter, I promise. Okay?
Deborah: Fantastic, thank you.
Paula Begoun: Thanks for calling, dear. Take care. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Candice from Ohio.
Paula Begoun: Candice, how are you?
Candice: Hello, it is so good to talk to you.
Paula Begoun: Hello! Thank you.
Candice: My question to you is I am a sagger, not a wrinkler. So, do you have any suggestions for lightly saggy skin? It is just starting to droop.
Paula Begoun: No. I don't. I hate this.
00:49:06 Because you know, here's...okay, sagging skin is the most difficult.
Candice: I know.
Paula Begoun: And I am going to say this and I know you are going to go to the cosmetic counter and somebody is going to say to you, or an infomercial, and say this lifts skin and you will go, "Oh, Paula's wrong. This lifts skin; I'm going to go buy this."
Candice: I've already tried that. I know it doesn't work.
Paula Begoun: It doesn't work. I hate saying this. Then I know people hang up and they go, "I'm not going to listen to Paula anymore; she doesn't have anything ..." So I can only state the facts.
00:49:40 I can't do anything else. It has been my mission from the day I started reviewing and researching the cosmetics industry. Sagging skin, there is nothing in the world of skincare that can lift skin. Now I know I just said the worst thing in the world, but I am still going to tell you what you can do to help. It is just never going to be like a facelift. That's what we all do. We want to buy those products that say that they lift skin and all of a sudden you are going to have your jowls are going to be up near you eyes.
00:50:17 It's amazing what they say. And so here is where it is, because you have already bought the creams, they didn't lift your skin. The major thing you can do, and I know it is boring. But you have got to wear sunscreen.
Candice: I do.
Paula Begoun: You simply can never get a tan again. Never. Never ever. Actually, you know something, I just read, and I had heard this before but I have actually never looked into it, was that you can put Solar Guard, a product called Solar Guard on your windows. The average commuter it is estimated, because the worst damaging rays of the sun come through windows. And it is estimated that the average commuter going to work gets 200 hours of sun damage every year.
00:51:11 Two hundred hours of sun damage every year. And we know that, you know, research says only 10% of us are wearing sunscreen on a regular basis. I'm actually wondering...I think that everybody should get Solar Guard on the windows they stand next to the most or in their car. So, I'm actually...Desiree, let's make sure I remember to -
Desiree Stordahl: To order some Solar Guard.
Paula Begoun: Oh, you don't order it, but to look into it to see, because I think there are companies that put it on or something.
00:51:45 So you've got to wear sunscreen; I know it is boring. And then you have to use products loaded with -
Candice: I was going to say, I put sunscreen on in the morning before I put makeup on and that is kind of it for the day.
Paula Begoun: So what type of sunscreen are you using?
Candice: Actually I use your SPF 30 sunscreen.
Paula Begoun: That's wonderful. I'm a happy girl. And then what foundation are you using?
Candice: I use Bobbi --
Paula Begoun: Bobbi Brown, her Tinted Moisturizer? That also has -
Candice: No, I just use her regular foundation . I don't use her tinted moisturizer. Oh, for moisturizer, actually I use the Resist products.
Paula Begoun: My Resist product? So here is what I want you to do. I am going to send you...what shade of skin color do you have Candice?
Candice: I'm African American, so I am like a caramel.
Paula Begoun: You ‘re like a caramel color? So I am going to send you my Healthy Finish Tan Pressed Powder, so that when you touch up your makeup during the day you are adding a little bit more sunscreen to your face. So I want you to give that a try.
00:52:55 The other thing that will make a huge difference, so you have to use products loaded with antioxidants, that helps improve cell function. Limited - it builds collagen. You can't really fix elastin; that's the problem. It is very hard to regenerate elastin. They don't quite know why. Believe me, there is a ton of research going on about it. Elastin is why skin stops drooping. Less about wrinkles. Elastin is more about the stretch of the skin. But you can, there is some theory saying that when you use products like antioxidants and stuff like that, you can get some repairing of elastin.
00:53:34 I'm skeptical about it, but it definitely helps overall. But the other thing that can make a huge difference is an exfoliant. And so are you using any of my BHA or AHA exfoliants?
Candice: No.
Paula Begoun: So what kind of skin type do you have, Candice?
Candice: Normal.
Paula Begoun: Normal leaning dry? Normal leaning oily?
Candice: Normal leaning dry.
Paula Begoun: Okay, because I was just going to say if you are one of those people who really has that kind of perfect skin, I actually generally don't take your calls! But okay, so normal to slightly dry. So here is what I am going to do.
00:54:06 I'm going to send you some of my Resist products. I would like you to do the Resist Toner because I know it is loaded with antioxidants. I would like you to do the Resist Barrier Repair and my serum. And then I am going to send you my Weekly Resurfacing Treatment. One product you use once a week, the 10% AHA, and then the 5% you use daily. And then I think you will be set.
00:54:33 And I do think you will get some, and I say this carefully, you will get some firming. Mostly what you will get, especially for African American skin, is a little bit of a glow. Because one of the things about any skin color, but specifically African American skin, or women of color, is that when they have sun damage, that top layer of skin, that thickened top layer of skin for women of color tends to look ashy.
00:55:03 When you get that ashy built-up dead skin layer off and that golden brown or reddish brown color comes through, the skin just looks glowy. It has that beautiful, that caramel, glowy look. I know you know what I am talking about. I would like you to give those Paula's Choice products a try and you will let us know how you are doing.
Candice: Okay, well that's great. Thank you very much.
Paula Begoun: Thank you, Candice. Okay, do we have time for one more caller?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes, we can get one more in. And it is Megan from Pennsylvania.
Paula Begoun: Hi Megan from Pennsylvania.
Megan: Hi Paula out on the west coast; I hope you guys are well. I'm calling because like your last comment, I have been a long-time sales rep and spent a lot of time in the south, sunny, driving, windows. And also love the sun, still do love the outdoors.
00:55:58 I am 49, cruising into 50 in January.
Paula Begoun: Congratulations.
Megan: And I'm finding a lot of discoloration. It is really showing up, and it is funny; it's showing up on the left side a lot this season.
Paula Begoun: I wonder why?
Megan: Yeah, it's really funny.
Paula Begoun: There you go. It's the sun.
Megan: Here's the issue. You mentioned earlier not overdoing foundation makeup and I do use a lot of your recommendations, especially the Revlon's Long-Lasting makeup base. And I have tried some of yours. But it looks like I have to put a ton of it on to cover those brown spots.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, you are not going to cover the brown spots. Let that one go.
00:56:42 You can't cover brown spots without looking like you are wearing two tons of makeup. So you have to cut that one out. Some imperfections are just going to come through. You can't be perfect. Because then you just end up looking like you are wearing a mask, so stop doing that. I do want you to look into the Solar Guard. That if you are on the road as much as I just heard you say...I will look into it, I will post it on Facebook and talk about it on the radio show as soon as I have enough research about it. There is a website, solarguard.com. Take a look at it because I think that for commuters out there that is going to be my new recommendation.
00:57:13 You do need to be religious about sunscreen. You need to be religious about sunscreen with SPF that only contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. I'm going to send you my new Ultimate Anti-Aging Hand Cream from my Resist line. It is only Pure Mineral. It is one of the few Pure Mineral hand creams out there. Actually, I use it on my face. It is a great formula. I'm also going to send you my SPF 25 from my Resist line. I just lost my train of thought and I don't know that I have enough time.
Desiree Stordahl: Skin lighteners, Paula?
Paula Begoun: Right, thank you, yes. So for grown spots in particular, other than being neurotic, and I mean neurotic about sunscreen with only titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as the active sunscreen, you don't leave the house without it.
00:57:56 If it is daylight that is on your hands, your face, and your chest, any parts exposed to the sun. I also want you to try, I'm going to send you my Remarkable Skin Lightening Lotion with Hydroquinone. Simply one of the best ingredients out there for...you know, you have to test it first to make sure that your skin can handle it, you don't have a sensitizing reaction. But that with sunscreen on a daily basis, you will love me.
00:58:25 It will make a difference. Stop trying to cover it up. You can't hide it. It just looks like too much makeup. Megan, thank you for calling. We will get those products out to you. Oh, never enough time. So much to talk about. Next week we will talk about, on the tenth, targeted solutions for spider veins, cellulite, chest rejuvenation. Mostly it is about your thighs, ladies. Bring your thighs and your questions. We will answer them next week with Dr. Baxter, the local plastic surgeon here in the Seattle area. Brilliant guy. He is going to help us with our thighs.
00:59:00 On the seventeenth, what your skin problems might be telling you about your health. Your nails, what your hair. It's deeper down than just what you might see on the surface. I'm Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, "Keeping you Beautifully Informed" on BlogTalkRadio on Thursday evenings, anywhere on the world. You can listen archived by coming to PaulasChoice.com. With Desiree Stordahl, my assistant and producer, and Bryan Barron who is on a wonderful romantic honeymoon will be back next week. Talk to everyone next week. Stay beautiful. Stay beautifully informed. Come visit me at PaulasChoice.com or on Paula's Choice Facebook. Take good care. Good night.
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