Beauty in Balance MUST DOs vs. DON'Ts

Airdate: 7/14/2011

Is your beauty routine out of control? Are you unsure which steps are really necessary? Discover what you need to pay attention to and what you can put on the back burner.

Paula Begoun: Hello. I'm Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, with my Paula's Choice team, Desiree Stordahl and Bryan Barron, keeping you beautifully informed. It's Thursday evening here in Seattle and we are live. And that means it is a whole bunch of times all over the world and of course you can always listen to us archived by going to PaulasChoice.com and under…Desiree, is it our community page?
00:00:32 Where do we have BlogTalkRadio on the website?
Desiree Stordahl: It is under our community page. It pops up if you go there.
Paula Begoun: I was right about that. You would think I would know me – well, never mind. I won't even go there with my brain and memory. I'm in my new house. I moved, what, last week. God, it feels like it has been a year. Two weeks ago. Two weeks ago? The 29th. I moved on the 29th. Is that two weeks? Yeah, two weeks. I'm in my new house, I can't believe it.
00:01:00 It's wonderful. It was worth the wait. Well, maybe not worth the wait, but it was a year and what, two months or something, renovating that thing.
Desiree Stordahl: Oh my gosh.
Paula Begoun: We have been talking about how bad our nails look. Well I always have nail polish on but with the moving and the "this" and the "that" and lifting and opening boxes and oh my gosh…my hands are pathetic. I don't even know what to call these nails anymore. And actually I even have still been getting manicures, just not putting polish on. But you would never know.
00:01:35 They are raggedy and broken and…
Desiree Stordahl: I broke four nails in the process of helping you move. Four nails!
Paula Begoun: You were wonderful. And you look adorable even with moving clothes on. I don't think any – you know we have got to get your picture up somewhere. People have no idea how adorable you are. And Bryan is adorable. How are you adorable Bryan?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes, he is.
Paula Begoun: Bryan, are you there?
Bryan Barron: Yeah, I'm here.
Paula Begoun: Bryan, are you sleeping? Well actually Bryan admitted today that his big do-don't is his hair.
00:02:07 So I know he is in there fixing his hair. Bryan let us in on one of his secrets. We are going to get to that. We each have a revelation or an insight into our own personal beauty insanity about what we pay too much attention to and not enough attention to. So we are going to go over that.
00:02:32 We are going to give you our beauty do's and don'ts, some of our top ones. I mean there are plenty and we could go into lots of details. But we are just going to do the top ones and then take your questions. But first, I do have a couple of rants. In fact, we were sitting in the meeting just a little bit ago going, "Do we have any rants?" We did a lot of product development today and we did a lot of meetings about the look on the website, the information, Beautypedia, just so many things.
00:03:08 And then we sat down and looked at each other and said, "Do we have anything to rant about?" There's always something to rant about. And then, Bryan, how did you bring up the Frederic Fekkai product, how did we get to that?
Bryan Barron: I was thinking back on content that has been in the works and I remembered that we recently finished an article that will be in an upcoming Beauty Exclusives.
00:03:33 You can sign up for it via email. It's called "Seven hairstyling products you should avoid and what to use instead."
Paula Begoun: And the top one. The top –
Bryan Barron: The main reason this product is not worth buying is price alone because it is just beyond the pale how much this costs. But as many of you know the hair care line Frederic Fekkai and he has a product called "Ageless Overnight Hair Repair" that retails for…what for it…$195 for a 3.4oz bottle.
Paula Begoun: Unbelievable.
00:04:13 Unbelievable. For nothing. For nothing that is unique. I'm sorry. You rant first and then it is my turn.
Bryan Barron: It is a well-formulated silicone serum. It has a few intriguing ingredients that your hair probably won't really get any benefit from.
00:04:31 But it can't repair hair regardless of your age or how the damage might have occurred. Hair is dead. Once it is damaged it is damaged. And the instructions for this product indicate that you are supposed to saturate your hair with it and leave it on overnight. That is something that you could do with any silicone serum or leave-in conditioner or even a regular conditioner that you would use in your shower and rinse out.
00:04:55 If your hair is dry and feeling or looking damaged, the longer you leave those conditioning ingredients on the hair, the better the results will be.
Paula Begoun: But, when you wash your hair the next day and that comes out, it doesn't stay, your hair is not repaired. You have to reapply your conditioner. You have to reapply your silicone serum. Don't' women get it that…well of course they don't get it or people wouldn't keep making these products and seducing women to believe that you can repair hair.
00:05:30 If hair was repaired eventually it would be repaired, right? If it is repairing, wouldn't it at some point be repaired?
Bryan Barron: But the name of this product is "Overnight Hair Repair." I could take that literally and thing, wow, in one night all of the damage is going to be gone. But we know that is not the case because right there on the bottle it says "Apply nightly at least once a week or however often you desire." That wouldn't be the case if after one use. They don't believe it.
Paula Begoun: It doesn't prepare overnight because you have to do it again.
Bryan Barron: Right.
Paula Begoun: Okay, I'm yelling. I start yelling. I get so upset. And it is just an ordinary. I mean it is silicones, it is glycerin, it is acrylics, it is about as basic a product…
00:06:12 And then they throw in some sea whip and protein, but other products throw in protein. There is a single lipid which is kind of a nice emollient, but I mean we are talking this couldn't even be less than…I mean maybe 0.1% of the product. And hair is dead.
00:06:32 What good is putting a plant extract on your hair. Go rub whatever plant extract on this product on your hair and you are not going to have healthy hair. Hair is dead. You can't feed it and bring it back to life. You know when you cut your hair you don't go, "Ouch!"
  I can't believe it.
Bryan Barron: You are flustered.
Paula Begoun: What do the people at Frederic Fekkai sit around and going…I mean do they sit around going, "Sucker! There's a sucker out there somewhere. They are going to buy this product and think it is really…"
00:07:09 I mean I would like to be a fly on the way in their marketing meeting because there is no way in hell…I mean the cost of making this product even begins to warrant that price tag and the claims, $195. So, Bryan, do you want to mention some silicone serums that are brilliantly formulated, practically identical to this one that you would like women to consider instead of $195 for what amounts to…
Bryan Barron: Yeah.
Paula Begoun: Okay, go.
Bryan Barron: The next time….I don't have complete product names, but all of these lines just have one silicone serum.
00:07:47 And they are easy to find. You can look at the options from Pantene. Pantene is owned by Procter & Gamble who also happen to own Frederic Fekkai. And it is not like they are letting Frederic Fekkai use the good ingredients and then the garbage goes to Pantene because that is only $6 at your local drugstore.
Paula Begoun: Bryan, I forgot that Procter & Gamble owns Frederic Fekkai. Oh my gosh, I can't believe I forgot that.
00:08:13 Oh, that's even worse. Can you believe that? Then their marketing meetings must be even more insane. They just must be laughing at the insanity. Okay, sorry, go on.
Bryan Barron: The chemists who put these products together certainly are having a chuckle as far as what the claims are and then what the price ends up being.
Paula Begoun: Oh my god, and given that they made the Pantene silicone serum. All right, Bryan, I'm sorry. So the Pantene silicone serum. Got2b is still around, too.
00:08:50 I used to use Got2b all the time.
Bryan Barron: Got2b is owned by Schwarzkopf which is a salon brand that is based in Germany but they are in the states. You can find the Got2b hair care products at Ulta Stores. CitreShine has been around for years.
00:09:06 They are a smaller California-based hair care line that is sold in a lot of drugstores. I typically see that brand at Rite Aid.
Paula Begoun: All of these are under $6, right Bryan?
Bryan Barron: Yes, actually, especially if you can find them on sale. The Got2b one might be around $7 or $8, but still.
Paula Begoun: But it is 4oz right?
Bryan Barron: You are saving $180-some odd dollars by going this route. You can go out to dinner with your husband or by yourself or a really nice pair of shoes and your hair won't know.
Paula Begoun: Actually, just to be clear, whether you want to waste your money on a $195 product or get a silicone…
00:09:45 Oh, I'm sorry, I have also been using Frizz Ease. I mean I just buy any silicone serum once I am out of a silicone serum or if I forget to pack it, because I know how to read the ingredient list and silicone serums are silicone serums. But they are brilliant products for hair, by the way. I mean talk about a beauty Do.
00:10:08 If you have thick, coarse hair, you have any dryness, if you put on just a little bit of silicone serum, it is like making your hair feel like silk, it is liquid silk. Nothing quite makes hair feel so incredibly brilliant as a silicone serum.
00:10:30 And there are many brilliant silicone serums which actually Frederic Fekkai's is one, it just isn't worth $195. The best ones are absolutely out there at under $8. No reason not to do it. But yes, silicone serums are great and I'm done ranting about Frederic Fekkai. Can we take him off our website? Just looking at it now, it is pissing me off. No, we won't just take it off. I'm sorry. I'm just ranting. I'm ranting. That is our rant.
00:10:58 Oh, so I wanted to, before we talk about the do's and don'ts, I was on Facebook, Paula's Choice Facebook page today answering questions, and there were a couple of interesting comments because many of our Paula's Choice customers and readers are little Cosmetics Cops themselves and do a brilliant job answering questions.
00:11:25 So somebody asked, they say, "I use your products and every now and then I use a product, and I love your products, but every now and then when I switch products and I start using a new one, and then in the beginning my skin is doing great, and then it goes back to not doing so great and then I buy a new one of yours and my skin starts looking beautiful again, and then after a few months it doesn't. And I switch. So can my skin be" and then the question is, "can my skin be building up a tolerance to these moisturizers?"
00:11:56 And Timothy answered the question for us. And Timothy said, "I think your skin doesn't build up a tolerance to good products in the same way your body doesn't build up a tolerance to a good diet." He is 100% right. What is healthy for your skin is healthy for your skin. Your body doesn't adapt to grapes. Your body doesn't adapt to broccoli. It is healthy for you today, it is healthy for you tomorrow.
00:12:27 Now it is good to have a range of ingredients. You don't want to just eat grapes, you don't want to just eat broccoli. Skin needs a range of ingredients but it never adapts to them. It just needs them, could need more depending on the time of year. So the other thing that that our friend on Facebook can know is that sometimes when you use a product and you feel it is not doing so well anymore, it could be, one, your skin changed, particularly if you are a woman, hormones can throw your skin around month to month.
00:13:03 The weather can throw your skin around if you are reactive to different climates. That can throw your skin around. And then the other thing that Timothy responded that I hadn't thought of and he is a wonderful Cosmetics Cop. He says, "Could it be that when you start using a new product you are all excited about it and then you back off and you are not so excited about it anymore and you are not using it as you should and you are more intermittent. And then when you buy the new product you are more diligent and using it more regularly."
00:13:32 And that could be, too. I actually think that is a great answer. Another comment on our Facebook page that I just love – Heather asked about our eye shadows and blushes that we used to carry. And I stopped carrying our blushes and eye shadows…Bryan, is it about four years ago now? Three years ago? Four years ago? Something like that? Do you remember?
Bryan Barron: At least three years since we had those. We got rid of the soft matte blush first and then the Barely There Sheer Matte Blushes followed. And every now and then we still get that, "I miss those products" emails from customers. And I sympathize with them. They were great products.
Paula Begoun: You know, I've got to tell you.
00:14:18 Forgive me for being self-complimentary of myself but they were brilliant. And I finished up my last Paula's Choice blush and eye shadows a little over six months or a year ago, something like that. And I had to start looking for other blushes and eye shadows from other companies. And I am following our recommendations on Beautypedia.
00:14:43 I take myself to the cosmetic counter and our recommendation and Bryan and his team's work for makeup. And I was…it wasn't easy and it still isn't easy. I still haven't found, and believe me I have bought them all, a blush that I think compared with our two types of blushes we had.
00:15:06 Now eye shadows, I feel like I have found eye shadows from Stila and MAC and a couple of other product lines that I think…I don't think I would ever do eye shadows again. There are plenty of great eye shadows out there. But you know, our blushes were pretty hot. I'm tempted to reconsider – I don't think I will. But they went on soft. They had good color saturation.
00:15:34 They didn't sparkle and shine and make you look greasy and accentuate lines like shiny blushes can do. And they were soft and glowy. Yeah, so I appreciate the comment that somebody said they missed my blushes and eye shadows. But I do think you can find other eye shadows that are pretty – actually very, very good. But, yeah, I miss my blushes. I've got to tell you, I'm still looking Bryan and maybe one of these days I will find something and then we could talk about it.
00:16:05 But darn, we had good blushes.
Bryan Barron: Paula, check out the Tarte Cosmetics which is kind of a hit or miss line as far as products. Their Amazonian Clay 12-hour Blush – and again, Amazonian Clay is –
Paula Begoun: Amazonian Clay? Who comes up with these names? Amazonian Clay what?
Bryan Barron: When I was doing that, I did the ingredient seminar at a local aesthetics schools this past Monday. And I actually got a good laugh when I used that comment that you usually say about whenever they are talking about clay or seaweed, it is never from the banks of the Mississippi or from Peoria.
00:16:44 It's always from some exotic locale that you would love to vacation at.
Paula Begoun: Something exotic, something not here. Something not here. So it is called Tarte Amazonian Clay what? Blush?
Bryan Barron: 12-hour blush. They sell it at Sephora. There are some attractive colors.
00:17:02 Several of them have a true matte finish. They have a nice vibrancy to them. They apply really nicely. Definitely worth a look. We rated it highly. And in fact it is one of the most checked out reviews on Beautypedia.
Paula Begoun: Oh, no kidding. All right, well that name alone. I will take a look. With the new house I have been living at Bed, Bath & Beyond. So Nordstrom's or Sephora is just right next door, so I will go take a look.
00:17:29 Okay, so let's talk about, so Bryan, we need to – gosh, we have been talking a long time. So, Bryan, tell me your do and your don't. What are you spending too much time doing and what should you do more or less?
Bryan Barron: I am spending too much time taking care of my hair.
Paula Begoun: Bryan, you do take too much time taking care of your – but you do look gorgeous – but you do spend too much time taking care of your hair.
Bryan Barron: Part of it is my own neuroses and then part of it is genetic fate with having so many cowlicks and just having hair that is tougher to manage.
00:18:05 But, I do not spend nearly enough time taking care of the skin on my feet. And you talk about beauty out of balance.
Paula Begoun: You have to say what Ben…you are killing Ben with your feet.
Bryan Barron: I think like a lot of guys, I don't cut my toenails as often as I should. And I pretty much know it is time to cut them when I scratch my husband.
Desiree Stordahl: When they become talons they are too long.
Paula Begoun: He scratches Ben!
Bryan Barron: But he doesn't get mad at me because he has the same issue.
00:18:40 So we both just kind of look at each other like, "We need to cut our nails more often."
Paula Begoun: That is one of the things about having two husbands. You don't have to be all that embarrassed because you are both doing it the same as opposed to – you know it is funny, when we were discussing what we do too much of and not enough of, I was thinking that I knew the honeymoon was over with the man in my life, we have been together for 3.5 almost 4 years now, is when I stopped shaving my legs every day.
00:19:12 And instead I only shave my legs when I am getting a pedicure. So the joke Harsha and I have is "Am I having an affair with the person doing my pedicure?" because she is the only one I have my legs for. Okay, Desiree, your turn, what is the one you are doing too much and the one you should be doing more of.
Desiree Stordahl: Well, I don't feel like I am doing it too much, but I am great about making sure my face is taken care of, but then other parts of my body – like my legs can be super dry.
00:19:55 And I'm just like, oh, I'm wearing jeans today, it's fine. Just throw on a pair of pants, as if I couldn't possibly put on lotion and wait a couple of minutes until it absorbs and then put on my clothes. My poor husband has to crawl into bed with alligator legs. And then –
Paula Begoun: It's easier when you are single to have some of these missteps. Because who notices?
Desiree Stordahl: Yeah, that's true. And then I am also bad about sunscreen. So I will be great about it on my face and I am usually pretty good about it on my neck, but then I can forget about my chest or my arms. So my beauty in balance would be focusing all on the face and then forgetting about the rest.
Paula Begoun: Right. I actually do think that I have the same one.
00:20:37 I am hyper-focused in my magnifying mirror. In fact, in the new house I put up a – and guys out there, I don't remember the brand of the magnifying mirror. It is just up there, the box is long gone. It is a 10 times magnifying mirror. It does actually have a really good light source, light thing around it. But I do. I am too focused on the blackheads around my nose. They drive me crazy. They always have.
00:21:05 Especially now that we are testing a new product – now I am even more hyper-focused than I have been. But I have always been hyper-focused on my magnifying mirror. I need to cut that out and I need to shave my legs.
  Okay, let's talk about the dos and the don'ts. Most importantly is to not over-clean your face. Don't over-clean. You do have to get all of your makeup off. You particularly need to get all of your eye makeup off. But you absolutely don't want to overdo and over-scrub and over-clean and over-polish and all of these words that you hear out there.
00:21:40 It all has to be gentle. You do have to get your makeup off. When you wipe your makeup off, when you are using that extra step to get your eye makeup off because to get into the corners, a water soluble cleanser isn't going to cut it, just be careful not to pull and tug. If you see your skin move, you are breaking down elastin fibers and that is not good over time.
00:22:00 Don't layer heavy moisturizers. I know how tempting it is. This one says it is lifting and this one says it is tightening and this one says it gets rid of wrinkles and this one says that it is luminosity. And this one will give you even skin tone. If they are all thick, creamy moisturizers, you are overdoing it. The ingredients that put creams into their cream form, particularly in jar products – well actually, nothing should be in a jar, but that is a whole other discussion.
00:22:33 Actually, nobody should ever buy a jar. Jar products are just a waste of your money because the good ingredients, they will break down in the presence of air. But also, if you are layering products, and you should be layering products, and I will talk about that in a second. But when you layer moisturizers, that consistency that is heavy and creamy, those ingredients can clog pores. They can just feel thick and heavy on the skin and that is not good for skin.
00:22:58 So what you do want to layer. You do want to use an exfoliant. You do want to use a toner loaded with antioxidants and specialty ingredients for your skin type. You do want to use an extra serum loaded with antioxidants or maybe a primer with serum type product under your makeup. You do want to use an exfoliant, but you want these products to be lightweight, serumy, lotiony, gel, liquidy. You can't put on four or five moisturizing creamy type products.
00:23:32 That's what is not good for skin. You are overdoing it when you are layering heavy products. Don't forget your mouth. Women can have twelve lip glosses, 20 lipsticks in their drawers and have little to nothing to take care of dry lips or to whiten their teeth. It's the wrong emphasis. Lipstick alone isn't a beauty routine for your mouth and your mouth – the thing in the middle of your face, lower part of your face that you talk with, is a huge part of your personality and your energy and your intelligence and your beauty. Everything.
00:24:16 And all we are doing is slapping lipstick on. It takes more than that. Pay attention. Teeth whitening strips do work. The gels, all of them that contain [carbamide] peroxide or hydrogen peroxide, or Paula's Choice 2-minute Teeth Brightener, absolutely work to lighten teeth and get rid of stains. They do a brilliant job; don't forget those.
00:24:40 Before you go investing in three new lipsticks consider teeth whitening. Also, do consider a lip balm that you use when you are not wearing lipstick, particularly at night. Do not go to bed with naked lips. You will not have dry lips when you do that. It will make a huge difference.
00:24:59 Do be neurotic. Not as neurotic as me, but do be neurotic about grey roots. You go through all of this trouble to dye your hair and if you wait six weeks like the instructions say, you will look like you have gray hair after two weeks. Six weeks is too long. If you want to look like you have gray hair, wait six weeks. But after all the trouble of dyeing your hair and looking beautiful, to then for four good weeks look like you have this line of gray all over the place –
00:25:31 At the very least, if you don't want to re-dye your hair that often, then wear a hair mascara. Don't pretend that nobody sees those gray roots at the top of your head or along your frame of your face. It doesn't make you younger, that's for sure. All of those anti-aging products and you've got a gray frame around your hair line because you are waiting six weeks to dye it again is going to make you look older.
00:25:58 Now, when I say don't be as neurotic as me, nobody should be dyeing their hair as often as I do. I am crazy. That is one of my over – I don't think anybody has seen me with a gray hair. Anywhere.
Desiree Stordahl: Nope.
Paula Begoun: Bryan, have you peaked at my hair line and go, "Geez, she is gray again?"
Bryan Barron: Nope. I mean I have peaked but I haven't seen any grays.
Paula Begoun: I am. I'm neurotic. Do worry about how your foundation looks. If you use a magnifying mirror for anything, do check your makeup in daylight and it should look smooth and even. Choppy foundation, uneven blush, streaky eye liner, but particularly choppy foundation or noticeable foundation at the jaw line, you want to pay attention to something, do pay attention to your foundation.
00:26:51 It is incredibly important. What you absolutely can let go of is trying to do a full eye design every day. It takes too much time. Most women don't have the time to get it on beautifully so they end up having streaky eye shadow and smeary eye liner and caked on mascara because who has the time in the morning to do all of those steps to get your eye makeup on. It is simple enough to just do a simple eye design.
00:27:24 What I do every day is I put on my skincare products, I put on my foundation, I'm very careful about blending, put on my concealer, blush, and then all I do for my eye design is I put on my brow and hair tint, I put on a little beigy eye shadow, really just to set the foundation and the concealer so it doesn't slip into the many lines around my eye, and mascara, and that is it. And then I wear lipstick. It takes me about five minutes, maybe a little longer when I am trying to really be good about my mascara.
00:28:04 But the point is that whatever you put on, it needs to look perfect as opposed to trying to put everything on and having some of it look good and some of it look mediocre. So do what you have time for to make beautiful. Don't feel like you have to get it all on or you will waste your time because you won't end up looking as beautiful as you really want to look.
00:28:30 Is that everything? I think that is everything. Am I missing something? Did I….that was everything. Yeah, that's everything on my list.
Desiree Stordahl: That's great. Let's go to some caller questions. We have Mary from West Virginia on the line.
Paula Begoun: Hi Mary.
Mary: Hello, Paula, it's great to speak with you. I've loved your books and have been reading them since you first came out with them.
Paula Begoun: Oh, lordy, I guess we are that old.
Mary: I'm dating myself – it's been awhile.
Paula Begoun: It's been awhile! What can I do for you, Mary?
Mary: I have been battling my aging combination skin with acne and redness.
00:29:08 And I have been – I think maybe I am overdoing it but I just wanted to get an idea of whether I should cut something out. I started using the Resist line with the exfoliants, the 5% and the 10%.
Paula Begoun: Right.
Mary: And I wanted to switch to a BHA, so I had some of your 2% I used awhile ago and pulled that out. And I have been using that at night to try to help clear up the acne and the redness.
00:29:34 But I am starting to get worse in the dry areas now.
Paula Begoun: So let's back up, Mary. So Mary, how old are you?
Mary: 44.
Paula Begoun: Oh, you are a baby. So you have been reading me since you were a child then. Okay, so you said you have combination skin, so you have oily and dry areas. Traditional oily dry areas?
Mary: Traditional.
Paula Begoun: And redness – where do you have the redness, Mary?
Mary: The redness in the nose and the chin.
Paula Begoun: So does it look like Rosacea?
Mary: It looks like Rosacea and I had a dermatologist say that once.
00:30:08 And I tried the MetroGel for a year and it didn't do anything so I just stopped.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, MetroGel does not work for everybody. So, because what you are describing sounds like the beginning signs or just the – how long have you had this redness? Has it been on and off or it is pretty steady or is it increasing?
Mary: It's been steady for about two to three years. It actually got a little better when I stopped using the MetroGel.
00:30:37 And it has gotten even a little better since I started using the BHA again.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, I bet. So what you are using from Paula's Choice – your general skincare routine, what cleanser are you using?
Mary: You know, I have been using the Olay Foaming stuff and sometimes I interchange it with your regular Skin Recovery cleanser. I'm not consistent with cleanser.
Paula Begoun: That's okay. As long as it is a good cleanser, of everything, you don't have to be consistent with. If the cleanser, as long as it is gentle, because you are rinsing it off, so what counts most is that it is gentle. And then what do you – are you following up with a toner or you are just going straight to what?
Mary: I'm following it up with the Skin Recovery Toner and then I usually…I have been putting on some of the lightening gel, the Resist Lightening Gel for some age spots.
Paula Begoun: And where do you put that? Are you just spot treating?
Mary: Just spot treating.
Paula Begoun: And where on your face? All over?
Mary: No, on the sides of the cheeks, right under the eye.
00:31:40 I guess the eye zone, whatever you would call that.
Paula Begoun: So that is where you have the brown patching. Okay, and then what is after the toner?
Mary: Exfoliant. And then moisturizer.
Paula Begoun: So the BHA…which BHA product are you using?
Mary: The 2% lotion.
Paula Begoun: The 2% lotion. And then after that?
Mary: Skin Recovery Moisturizer.
Paula Begoun: And then you said you added in the Resist. What did you add in from Resist?
Mary: The 5% alternating with the 10%.
Paula Begoun: And the 2% BHA?
Mary: At night.
00:32:14 Yeah, I do the BHA at night and the Resist in the morning and I didn't know if I was over-exfoliating?
Paula Begoun: Oh, we are over-exfoliating.
Mary: Exacerbating the dryness or over-moisturizing.
Paula Begoun: We are overdoing, Mary. We are overdoing. Okay, but I have to say there are definitely those in my office and my customers who are going to disagree with some of what I am saying. Because there are people who do just what you are doing and have had a lot of luck, especially if you have sun damage or you are really able to deal with that much exfoliation.
00:32:53 And if you have sun damage it sometimes takes that much exfoliation to get a smooth outer surface and get rid of the built-up, damaged dead skin cells. But, when you have Rosacea, you have to be more cautious just because the skin is somewhat more reactive.
  So, what I want you to back out is that 10% AHA. Are you using it every day or just once a week? How often are you using it?
Mary: Once a week or once every two weeks depending on how my skin feels.
Paula Begoun: Oh, so you are not doing that much with it.
Mary: Not with the 10%.
00:33:28 Just the 5% every day in the morning.
Paula Begoun: Okay, so let's drop out the 5% and just do the 10% like you were saying, once a week or once every two weeks to get that extra layer of dead skin cells off. And then stay with the 2% lotion and I think your skin will be – well I know your skin will be happier.
  I'm going to send you my Skin Recovery cleanser and get you on that one and see how that helps some of the dry areas. I'm also going to send you my Shine Stopper. I think that over the oily areas, after you get your foundation on or before you put your foundation on, and we have some new step-by-step instructions so you can get it on really smoothly and evenly.
00:34:12 I think when you absorb those oily areas, you will like the way your skin feels and the way your makeup looks during the day. And to experiment, instead of the Skin Recovery Moisturizer I am going to send you the Resist Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator. It's a new product in Paula's Choice. It is a very silky lightweight feeling moisturizer and it also has some anti-acne ingredients, in particular, niacinamide.
00:34:43 Which may be a little difficult for somebody…you will have to try it. I want you to try it. It might cause flushing but some people just swear by niacinamide that it works, it doesn't matter if they have Rosacea. One of the things about niacinamide is it can improve pore structure. It is a really nice ingredient. So I would like you to give those a try. But, yeah, let's back out the 5%. I don't think you need an AHA and a BHA all in the same day.
00:35:13 And that 10% from the Resist line alpha hydroxy acid will do just fine once a week or once every other week. And I think your skin will be happier.
Mary: Okay. So I am doing the don't of too much exfoliation then.
Paula Begoun: You know, it is easy to get carried away because you know when you exfoliate, your skin feels great.
00:35:30 And so you think, oh, it can feel greater. It can feel even better. So, all right Mary, you are doing good though and I am proud of you.
Mary: Okay, thanks for talking to me, Paula.
Paula Begoun: Take care, Mary. Bye-bye. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Laura from Kansas on the line.
Paula Begoun: Laura, hi. How you doing?
Laura: I'm doing great. It is so good to hear your voice. I have to tell you, like the previous caller I have been a fan for many, many years. And in fact, two years ago when I was in New York on business I was staying at the London Hotel.
00:36:01 And while I was having dinner you were at the very next table with a friend. And I was just star struck. I wanted to go over and just give you a great big hug but I didn't want to interrupt your evening. It would just seem so rude. So the whole night I sat there just twiddling my thumbs, wishing that I could speak with you because you are so wonderful.
Paula Begoun: I do stay at the London a lot. I stay there.
Laura: It's a great hotel.
Paula Begoun: So funny. You could have come to say hello.
00:36:27 People do come say – and I'm nice. I'm a nice person.
Laura: You are obviously nice. I could see from your interaction that evening that you were just a doll. But I didn't want to interrupt your evening. I am a big fan of yours, many years, of course every book you have ever done. And I'm 53. I just started using the full Resist system and I have to say any woman out there that is over the age of 35, if you are not using this, you are going to regret it. I love it. My skin has never looked better. I have boxes and boxes of stuff.
00:37:00 Like many of us, I will buy anything that has – it puts the word sucker on my forehead I think. But I will try anything that promises me to look younger. But the Resist line, my skin truly has never looked better. I love it. Question though...
Paula Begoun: See now I am feeling bad you didn't say hello because I would have fallen in love and probably have bought you a drink. Thank you, Laura, that's very sweet. So I'm sorry, ask your question, dear.
Laura: I am totally flattered to be speaking with you. I really am. I admire you so much.
00:37:31 I was recently prescribed Tazorac cream from my dermatologist. Really it was about the same time that I had ordered the Resist line. And I really don't have any prominent skin problems. My face actually is pretty darn wrinkle resistant for my age of 53. I do get breakouts on my neck which is the weirdest thing. I don't get any breakouts on my face, but on my neck, just like below my ears. And I try to keep my hair off it because I have long hair.
00:38:01 So my question for you is, is it okay or advisable to use Tazorac cream in conjunction with the Resist line? And secondly, the PaloVia laser and the new Light Stem LED system, both at-home systems, would you advise, which of those if either of them you would recommend. And would you recommend those if you are also using the Resist system.
Paula Begoun: Okay, so two things.
00:38:29 One is acne on your neck is incredibly stubborn. It doesn't respond very well to much of anything. So have you used our benzoyl peroxide --
Laura: Oh, no, I haven't. Actually I use the 2% BHA lotion on my neck twice day, and that helps a lot. I mean it really is great.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, it definitely will reduce some of the swelling and definitely help healing. But to really keep them down I am going to send you from my Clear line our regular strength – Desiree, what's the name of our?
Desiree Stordahl: Acne-Fighting Treatment.
Paula Begoun: Acne-Fighting Treatment. What would I do?
00:39:18 Desiree, you are my brains. I have no brains if it wasn't for you. Our Acne-Fighting Treatment is a 2.5% benzoyl peroxide product. You would put that on either before or after the salicylic acid. Some people prefer one way or the other. You can experiment to see which way works best for you, but I think that will help.
00:39:39 For some acne, like for me, because I can't use benzoyl peroxide on my face, I just use my 2% BHA liquid and it does great keeping my blemishes away. But for the neck area, to fight that without a benzoyl peroxide product, I just think you will be a lot happier when you add that.
00:39:58 So I am going to send you that from my Clear line. In terms of Tazorac, yes, absolutely. Retinoids easily can be used with my Paula's Choice Resist products, almost any of my Paula's Choice products for that matter.
  In terms of the at-home LED treatments, generally speaking I find them a waste of time. I don't recommend them. The information about it is all over the board. But for the most part the research says it is just not worth it.
00:40:34 LED lights, you radio lights up because of LED lights. I just don't – Bryan, would you agree with that? Do you think there is any of those LED at-home things women should be sitting in front of for any reason?
Bryan Barron: I used to think that some of them had merit, at least for in minor improvement, if you are using it along with good skin care.
00:41:00 I had a pretty extensive talk with Seattle dermatologist Brandith Irwin who has been on the show a couple of times. And she reminded me of something that I hadn't considered which was that these at-home devices due to the problems that could happen with law suits from overuse or if the devices are too powerful, they deliberately keep them below a certain level. So it is not the same level that you would get in a medical setting where it can be monitored and controlled. They have to keep it to a lower level because they know that a lot of consumers will get carried away. They won't follow the directions. They will use the machine more often than they should.
00:41:40 And then they will end up injuring themselves and suing.
Laura: Is that true as well with the PaloVia laser at-home system?
Paula Begoun: I don't know those. Are you talking about the hair removal lasers?
Laura: No, this is actually a new laser that is an at-home system where the Light Stem is an LED based system. The PaloVia is a laser.
Paula Begoun: So laser is a very – spell that for me.
Laura: PaloVia.
Paula Begoun: PaloVia Skin Renewing Laser.
Laura: There you go.
00:42:21 That's it.
Paula Begoun: So we would have to look at this a little bit more. But, keep in mind that, so they are making all big kind of claims about FDA approval and keep in mind that that doesn't mean anything. Band Aids have FDA approval. And so a lot of –
Bryan Barron: They do.
Paula Begoun: They do. And actually a lot of these laser lights, these LED lights, when they say, "FDA approved, such a big deal," all they really are doing is they are falling under the exact same category as wheelchairs and Band Aids. So they are not – getting FDA approval doesn't mean it works.
00:43:01 It just means you can sell it. And you can sell it in the category you are selling it. So, we would have to take a closer look at this, but…oh, I love it. They say, "The first FDA-cleared at-home laser clinically proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. It makes it sound like the FDA is approving it to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. And that isn't what the FDA is approving here.
Bryan Barron: It's a Class 2 device. I'm on the FDA's website. The only information is just the general classification.
00:43:40 A powered laser, surgical instrument, with micro-beam fractional output. And it is considered a Class 2 laser device.
Paula Begoun: What's Class 2, Bryan, do you know off-hand?
Bryan Barron: Not off the top of my head. But I'm thinking it is in the same category as laser pointers that a professor at school would use.
Paula Begoun: Oh, right, right. So we are going to stop talking about this. So, Laura, you are going to have to listen next week or we will post on Facebook. Because I need to look more.
00:44:19 They are making it sound like you would be getting something similar to what you would be getting at a doctor's office.
Laura: Yes, exactly, right.
Paula Begoun: There is no way in hell that is true.
Laura: Gotcha, it makes sense.
Paula Begoun: It would be like buying a stethoscope and saying well now you are a medical doctor. You are getting, I don't know, like a heart checkup or heart surgery because you own a stethoscope. That doesn't equate. But we need more information before we carry on anymore about that. But don't spend $500 on it.
Laura: Absolutely. Well I think you so much for taking my call.
00:45:00 And again I thank you for everything you have brought. You are the voice of reason.
Paula Begoun: Wait, but before you leave I am going to send you our new Resist Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator. I'm also going to send you – are you using the Resist…
Laura: I'm using the Hydrator, too. I use everything in the system and I bought the new Hydrator. And I use the BHA lotion, 2%. I love your products. I use everything, I promise you. My bathroom looks like a department store.
Paula Begoun: Thank you, sweetheart. Desiree, she already owns everything so let's give Laura a $25 Paula's Choice gift certificate. Come shopping next time you need more products, Laura.
00:45:40 Thank you.
Laura: Thank you so very much. Well, Paula, again, I love you. You are wonderful. And keep doing everything you are doing.
Paula Begoun: Next time you see me at the London you come up and say hello, okay?
Laura: I will probably just buy you a bottle of wine. But thank you so very much. Bye-bye.
Paula Begoun: Take care. Next caller, Desiree.
Desiree Stordahl: We have Genie from California.
Genie: Oh my gosh.
00:46:02 Hi!
Paula Begoun: Genie, wait, before I say something. So, Bryan, we need to make sure we take a look at this PaloVia Renewing Laser. But I think you are right, I think it is a laser pointer. I'm not sure. But let's make sure we get to this for next week.
Bryan Barron: You got it.
Paula Begoun: So, hi, it's Genie right?
Genie: Yeah, Genie. I'm so glad to talk to you, too. I love you, too.
00:46:31 It's probably been about eight or nine years that I have been using your products. And my question is when you were talking about the hair mascara, can you go a little more into that because I have never used those and I don't know how they work or do they wash out? I get highlights and lowlights, kind of natural blonde color. And what my gal has been using, there is no peroxide in the blonde that she uses so it is more healthy. And I don't very much about --
Paula Begoun: That's not possible.
00:47:04 She can't make you blonde without peroxide.
Genie: I can't remember the name or what she calls it, but it is kind of like when she covers my --
Paula Begoun: Wait, wait. You have dark hair that she is making lighter?
Genie: No, I was born a towhead and as I got older, I'm 47 now, and I have been getting highlights and lowlights for a long, long time and it was always with peroxide. And my hair was getting drier and drier. And for the last six times or so she has…I forget the name of what it is called, but she says there is no peroxide in it.
00:47:37 It's not like a brassy blonde or anything, it's more like a Jennifer Aniston kind of blondish, real natural.
Paula Begoun: So here is what I want you to do Genie. First, because I will definitely talk about hair mascara, hair tint, but Desiree will you get Genie's email so she can send us what product her stylist is using that is making her hair blonde but doesn't contain peroxide?
00:48:07 Because Genie in all of my years of chemistry and hair research, I'm sure she is doing a beautiful job on your hair, and most likely what she is doing is using a less concentration, which could be a huge difference. And it does make a difference what products you use. But I can't imagine that it doesn't contain peroxide
  But nonetheless…
Genie: Yeah, I will definitely ask her and I will send it to you guys.
Paula Begoun: Please, please, please.
00:48:31 And what color…so are you gray around your…what is your base color?
Genie: It's very gray and then it has that mousy brown. So what she does is when she covers up the gray she uses like a chestnut color and then she pulls that all the way through to be the lowlights, and then she does a blonde. So it is highlights and lowlights and gray coverage.
Paula Begoun: Okay, so you leave loving the way your hair looks and then two weeks later you've got gray at the edges?
Genie: Yeah, about 2.5, 3 weeks. Because my hair grows really fast.
00:49:05 But it blends really well because my gray is kind of a…it's not a mousy gray. It's kind of like a real whitey kind of gray.
Paula Begoun: I'm so jealous. You know our marketing director has that kind of gray. So the way she colors her hair with the blonde, when she gets a little bit of gray it merges. Oh, I am so jealous. It merges with her hair beautifully.
Genie: Yeah, but that is why I want to find out about the mascara.
00:49:32 Because I don't like that. You can definitely see…
Paula Begoun: So the problem is when you have light brown – Bryan, what is our lightest hair tint color? Is it taupe?
Bryan Barron: Well it's called blonde but it is kind of a taupey blonde. That would work.
Paula Begoun: So we are going to send you one of those to experiment with.
Genie: Okay, and does it wash out?
Paula Begoun: Yes, it washes out. It's tricky to use.
00:49:58 I have to admit that these products that cover gray at the hair line and at the root temporarily – you only put it on the gray areas. You can see it isn't permanent. It isn't waterproof. So you literally – this is a great thing with a magnifying mirror, my little magnifying mirror.
Genie: It's like my son goes, "Get away from that thing," because I am the same way with my blackheads around my nose."
Paula Begoun: We all need to back off on it. But where it does really come in handy is when you are looking in the mirror you can see where those little gray hairs that are driving you crazy.
00:50:36 And then you literally just apply it much like you would apply mascara to your eye lashes. Which means you want to avoid touching the skin, just like at your hair line you want to avoid touching the skin around your hair on your scalp, just getting the root and up. And you can learn different techniques of how to part your hair or hold it back. And you just get the hair line area that you see or where you part your hair, and you cover it just the way you would cover putting mascara on your eye lashes.
00:51:14 The difference with these products and you will see when you get ours in the mail is that the ones that are designed for hair are lighter. They are not a heavy texture. They are not meant to make hair thicker and heavier and longer. They are really just coating for the color.
00:51:35 And it washes out and then you touch it up again in the morning. And I think you will find that it works really, really well and gets you through till you go back to your wonderful stylist who is giving you the hair color you love.
Genie: Well thank you so much. I appreciate it for doing that. And I will email you.
Paula Begoun: Oh, now you have me so curious. We have to look at the potential of a no peroxide, although I am so skeptical. And then we have to take a look at this PaloVia thing. We will have lots to talk about next week.
00:52:09 Thank you, Genie.
Genie: Thank you.
Paula Begoun: Take care. Desiree, next caller.
Desiree Stordahl: Julie in Vancouver.
Paula Begoun: Julie, just up north or Washington State, Vancouver?
Julie: Vancouver, BC.
Paula Begoun: Vancouver, BC. So are you having as bad a summer as we are having in Seattle?
Julie: I'm having rain right now and I am supposed to be out of town tomorrow, so I am a bit worried.
Paula Begoun: I know, we are having a very bad summer. So what can I do for your Julie and now we will have a better summer.
Julie: Well it's just that well I am getting older.
00:52:47 And so like I started using a little bit of the retinoids, and well because I love your products, I have been using – I did phone in quite awhile ago, I think it was a couple of years ago or maybe a year and a half ago, and I started using your Resist line products And I am about to order again because all these new products coming out, I really, really want them.
00:53:07 And so I am just wondering, I think I have almost the same question as the first caller. Because the retinoid is making my skin a little bit dry and so I had to pile on more sunblocks in the morning, and so I am just wondering when I go home and take it all off, do I do like a double cleansing? Is that necessary? Because my skin right now is a little bit dry because of the retinoids. And I don't know, maybe it is because I am not using as much products as before.
Paula Begoun: So, Julie, tell me your skin type off-hand separate from the retinoid.
00:53:41 Is it on the dry side, normal side, combination, oily?
Julie: Lately it is a little bit oily in some parts and I think it is combination.
Paula Begoun: So combination. And Julie, how old are you?
Julie: I'm 23.
Paula Begoun: You are a baby. You are using my Resist line and you are a baby.
Julie: Well I haven't ordered yet…
Paula Begoun: Anybody can use my Resist line. We will send you my Resist products.
00:54:06 My Resist products, it isn't age-dependent. The ingredients are brilliant for any age. It's just that I don't want you worrying about wrinkles.
Julie: Oh, thank you. Well because I read all of your Resist line descriptions. I'm just wondering if I should stop the retinoid because they are so expensive and they are really not…I thought it might be for older people. I just wanted to give it a try.
Paula Begoun: Not necessarily. Not necessarily.
00:54:35 So, a couple of things. It's not that you shouldn't be concerned about wrinkles but you need, what I like my younger customers and readers to pay attention to is being as healthy with their skin as they possibly can which means being neurotic about sun protection and being neurotic about using healthy, brilliant products for their skin. Learn how to get those kind of products to their skin, now, and you will look younger and glowing and beautiful when all of your friend who weren't listening to me won't be.
00:55:10 Because, you know, they are not using sunscreen religiously and they are not using products loaded with great ingredients. Or they are using products in jar packaging, on and on. So you are going to be doing that and that is wonderful and that is great at any age.
  The Resist products are fine at any age, too. What could be happening, Julie, is retinoids are hard for a lot of skin types to use.
00:55:33 As I have mentioned before, I can't use retinoids. Retin-A and Renova is very hard on my skin, personally. And I wish I could use it and I can't. Bryan, he has reactions even to just using retinol which is an over-the-counter form of a retinoid that can be used in skincare products. So what you can try doing is cutting back how often you use the retinoid.
00:55:57 So if it is Retin-A or Renova or Tazorac or whatever retinoid you are using, instead of using it every day, use it every other day or every two days and see how your skin does.
Julie: Sorry, I'm so sorry to interrupt.
Paula Begoun: No, no. Interrupt or I just keep talking. What were you going to say?
Julie: Well my dermatologist recommended the wash-off one. Oh, I forgot what it is called because I don't have it with me right now. The foamy – the Retin-A foam. The one with the pump.
Paula Begoun: Okay, this is a longer discussion than I have time for.
Julie: I'm sorry.
Paula Begoun: Bryan, do you know that there is a wash-off Retin-A product?
Bryan Barron: I did not, no. I know that Differin is available in disposable wipes, or at least it was in one point.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, but then you are leaving that on. You are not washing it off. Why would you risk getting a retinoid in your eye? So, Julie, tell me the name of this product. God, we have a lot to go over. We have a lot of research. Just when I think I know everything there is like a ton of stuff I don't know. So, Julie, what is this product?
Julie: I forgot what it is called because I am not actually in the house right now. But it is on your master beauty list. It's like the Retin-A, the pump. But it is not a wash-off product, I don't think…
Bryan Barron: Are you thinking of Renova? Renova comes in a pump?
Julie: No, it's not.
00:57:22 It is foam. It's that description with the micro-like Retin-A.
Paula Begoun: But you don't wash it off.
Julie: That's what he told me. He's like, okay, he's like leave it on for ten minutes and then wash it off.
Paula Begoun: So, Julie, you are going to give Desiree your email. And I am going to email you personally and I am going to walk through this because it doesn't make any sense to use a retinoid and then wash it off. That doesn't make any sense. And then you would be washing your face twice and overdoing it.
00:57:57 And using a cleanser right after a retinoid would be stripping your face. It makes no sense to me, at all. So, Julie, I don't have time to go into detail but I promise I will help you. Desiree, let's make sure we get Julie's email.
Desiree Stordahl: Absolutely.
Paula Begoun: And Julie, when you talk with Desiree, you are going to give us exactly what you are doing. I want every product you are using and a description of it. And then next week we will let everybody know what we told Julie to do.
00:58:27 Julie, I'm sorry, but I have to go. What great questions! We have a lot of research to do. So everyone has to listen next week because we are going to help Julie figure out her skincare routine and why her doctor is telling her to wash off Retin-A or Renova or whatever she is using. And we are going to look at that PaloVia laser thingy which I think is a bit of a joke for $500. And, oh, what was the other thing?
Desiree Stordahl: Then non-peroxide hair product.
Paula Begoun: Oh right, the non-peroxide. Lots of stuff. But after we answer those questions next week, what we are going to be talking about is seven extraordinary skincare products that really, really work.
00:59:10 And then on the 28th, I can't wait, we are going to be talking to Dr. Arthur Perry, plastic surgeon extraordinaire about treatments for sagging and bagging skin that really work. On the 4th, how to tell if a product is really working. When you use that product that you bought, how do you know it is making a difference? And on the 11th, a very important show with Dr. Nase, the Rosacea expert. Actually the world-renowned Rosacea expert.
00:59:36 And we are going to solve Rosacea problems. Thank you everyone for listening. This is Paula Begoun. I'm the Cosmetics Cop, with my Paula's Choice team, Desiree Stordahl and Bryan Barron, keeping you beautifully informed. Please listen in next week, every week archived on PaulasChoice.com. Take care.
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