Get the Best Experience at the Hair Salon!

Airdate: 2/24/11

Find out insider tips for getting the most out of your hair appointment with industry leader and hair expert, James Todd. Get tips on to how communicate with your hairstylist for the best results, find out what to do when a service goes wrong, and much more.

Paula Begoun: Good evening. I'm Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, with my team – Desiree Stordahl and Bryan Barron. Bryan, are you there? Did you get home okay?
Bryan Barron: Yes, I'm here.
Paula Begoun: You are here. So, we had a little snow – well, I don't know little. In different elevations in Seattle, it depends where you are, we had a snowstorm. And some people were on hills that were slipping and sliding and not everybody could get in or get home.
00:00:35 So, Bryan is doing the show from his home so he is home nice and safe and warm. It is supposed to be in the – was it freezing out when you went home, Bryan? Is it in the 20s or something?
Bryan Barron: You know when I left our office area it was just above freezing. And by the time I got to where I live it was down to below freezing.
Paula Begoun: Brr.
Bryan Barron: So, I was glad to get home when I did.
00:01:00 Although I must say, the roads were in good shape.
Paula Begoun: Alright, that's good because I definitely drove to work, white knuckled. I just was – I started cramping my hands around the wheel. You know even though I grew up in Chicago I am just not a cold weather driver. Cold weather meaning icy, slick, snowy. I don't know, I've been in the Northwest for 32 years and I got out of the ability to go through snow easily.
00:01:32 It freaks me out. The Northwest gets an inch of snow and we close schools. And in Chicago growing up you had to have two feet and wind drifts covering your house before they would close a school. So, tonight we are going to be talking with James Todd. I'm very excited. James Todd – we talked with him before. He is a hair stylist extraordinaire, hair care expert. He is Creative Director at the Gene Juarez Salons, a group of salons here in the Northwest.
00:02:06 He has worked at those fancy fashion shows in New York City and Paris. He is amazing. He is going to help us understand how to get the best haircut of our lives; how to work with our stylists in a way where they don't want to kill us and we don't want to kill them and we are not scared to – we were just sitting around when we were talking about the show tonight is that a lot of us are scared to death of our hair stylists.
00:02:35 We don't know how to talk to them and say stop doing that, or do that differently. And they make faces at us. And lord knows they make faces at me. So, we will talk – and how to get full hair and beautiful hair and realistic hair. And should you bring in those pictures of celebrities in the magazines and say, "Make me look like this." So, we are going to talk about all of that.
00:02:58 But before we get to James Todd, I have to – you know I actually, you would think I would pour over every fashion magazine given my job. That I would read fashion magazines, every one that came out every month. And I actually used to up to just a couple of years ago. And then I realized that I was getting high blood pressure because I would go through fashion magazines and they just pissed me off so bad I just finally – okay, only bring me the big stuff I need to pay attention to.
00:03:31 And then somebody left an Allure magazine sitting around and I couldn't resist. There was all of this stuff on hair in it and I thought, oh, I should go through this; I'm going to be talking to James Todd, what if I have questions – something crazy I read in the fashion magazine. So, instead what I pulled out…Bryan have you seen this one? This new mascara from Clinique called Bottom Lash?
Bryan Barron: Yes.
Paula Begoun: Mascara! What the hell is that about? What is that?!
Bryan Barron: Yeah, I just talked to Desiree about trying that. I tried it --
Paula Begoun: Oh, do not try it. Oh, I'm sorry, go on.
Bryan Barron: Well, it is a new mascara from Clinique and Clinique is one of the most popular brands that people search for when they visit And so when they come out with…and they have been promoting this in all of the fashion magazines. You saw the ad. You know about the product.
Paula Begoun: This is why I shouldn't read fashion magazines.
Bryan Barron: And mascara just for your bottom lashes. Sort of like when you are shopping for nail polish, there is toe nail polish and finger nail polish, right?
Paula Begoun: I could, so first when I was going – so I am a mascara addict, personally. I happen to love our new mascara but there is a lot of great mascaras. But the ads always get me. So, I was already on a roll because I am looking at Julia Roberts with clearly false eyelashes on advertising a mascara by Lancôme called Defincils Precious Cells.
00:05:07 And it is supposed to create…supposed to make your lashes stronger and it is this precious plant cell extract designed to regenerate you lash condition. Of course designed doesn't mean it actually does it. But separate from all of that, whether I believe their claims or not, and I don't, she is wearing false eyelashes.
00:05:29 So, clearly the makeup artist or the people in marketing didn't trust that their mascara would do a good enough job that they put her in false eyelashes. And then Maybelline which is…which Lancôme, L'Oreal, Maybelline one big happy family…L'Oreal owns Lancôme and owns Maybelline. And so Maybelline is advertising another mascara called One by One, Volume Express, a new one of their Volume line.
00:06:00 And I mean this one isn't even trying to fake it. This woman has false eyelashes on so clearly, they are literally…you can actually see where it is lifting up at the back of the eye and they are hitting her eyebrows. And I just…I thought oh my god.
And then…see, this is why I shouldn't read fashion magazines. Then I run into this ad from Clinique. Now at least they had the good sense –
00:06:31 Or I don't know good sense, whatever. They didn't have a model with false eyelashes blatantly fluttering on the lash line. But the notion that the lower lashes need a different mascara than the upper lashes because the brush wand needs to be different…first of all, aside from having to open up another product, another mascara to dry out.
00:07:01 It's little. It's 0.07 grams. It is a tiny, teeny tube with a tiny, teeny amount of mascara. You can easily get your mascara on with the mascara you use. We have all been doing it for decades. But the other thing that was really interesting is one of the claims they make here is that – because it shouldn't smudge. And so I am thinking there are other mascaras that they have been selling all of this time smudges and now they finally have one that doesn't.
00:07:34 So, I don't know. It's ten bucks. I'm sure a lot of women will go, "Oh, okay, well I will get better lashes on." My sense of it is we can bet, I think it will be gone…actually Clinique always surprises me, maybe it won't be gone. But, I can't…oh my gosh. Okay. So, I wanted to tell everyone that Desiree and I are leaving, just a little bit more business to handle before we talk to James Todd, hair stylist extraordinaire.
00:08:06 We are going to Thailand on Saturday. Desiree! Desiree is not packed yet. Are you packed?
Desiree Stordahl: I'm not packed yet. Not all the way.
Paula Begoun: Ah! I've been packed for a week. I told Desiree trying to find…I can find tops…I can always find tops. I have dozens and dozens of tops, but to find pants that fit my backside, I was saying that it was like panning for gold.
00:08:35 I mean I would sooner find gold than I can find a pair of pants to fit. And it is going to be hot. It is going to be hot…90 degrees. And we are meeting the Thai women Paula's Choice customers. We are opening Paula's Choice…officially opening Paula's Choice Thailand. Our wonderful distributor [Narie] over there and our Australian distributors will be there for Paula's Choice Australia.
00:09:00 So, it is a very global international week we have coming up for Paula's Choice. It is very thrilling. We have wonderful customers in Thailand. I'm doing a presentation for about 400 Thai women. I'm just thrilled. I get kind of emotional being…we are just this global company reaching women all over. And then I have a secret for everybody. Don't tell anybody that I have told you this.
00:09:29 But we have had where we do all the reviews, 45,000 reviews of products from major lines all over the world. We have had it free for January and February and [trumpet noises]…it is going to be free always. Now if you are already a subscriber, don't worry because, and you have had a subscription and you are worrying about it, we will be refunding money so don't be upset.
00:10:01 Don't be upset. But it is going to be free! It's going to be free. Tell your friends, tell your family. It is just something that we want to make available to the world. We are very proud of our reviews. Our science-based reviews of skincare, our comparative analysis of makeup. We are very proud of our research and our work and we want to share it with the world.
00:10:27 No more stopping at a subscription that makes you go, "Oh, well, no that is too much money." The reviews are there free for you to take a look at. You can look up the best products in all of these lines. See if the product you are using is one of the worst or one of the best and make a decision about what you want to buy. So, it is free! Yay, it's free. I'm very excited about the potential of the reach to women all over the world as Paula's Choice and my company become more global. We are global.
00:10:58 So, okay, I can carry on. But I want to talk to James Todd. James, are you there?
James Todd: I am here Paula. Hi guys.
Paula Begoun: Hi James, how you doing?
James Todd: I'm good.
Paula Begoun: So, 22 years. Actually you look like a child. I can't believe you have been doing hair for – well actually a very tall, good looking child. But 22 years, really? 22 years.
James Todd: 22 years. Yeah, my whole life really. Started working in the laundry room for Gene Juarez when I was 17 years old and started cutting hair officially at 19.
Paula Begoun: Oh, so you are young. You are a child.
James Todd: Well, I'll be 41 in a few weeks.
Paula Begoun: Happy Birthday almost. Happy birthday.
James Todd: Thank you.
Paula Begoun: James Todd is a gorgeous, talented – he did work his way up through the Gene Juarez Salons. And Gene Juarez Salons is the biggest chain of salons in the Northwest. Their exacting standard – I don't of many – in fact I don't know of any regional salons like Gene Juarez that have such a standard of excellence.
00:12:04 They have their own hair styling school, what it takes to be able – you can't just graduate Beauty School and all of a sudden be cutting hair on the Gene Juarez floor. You have a whole process to go through. And so you worked your way up and made your way to – Fashion Weeks in New York and Paris. So, have you done any celebrity names you want to throw around?
James Todd: Oh, god. Well, you know the one that has been the kindest to us forever and ever was our good friend Josie Bissett, known from Melrose Place fame.
Desiree Stordahl: Oh, yeah.
Bryan Barron: That's right, Jane. Jane Mancini.
James Todd: James Mancini. You know I was cutting Jane, I was cutting the character when she was on Melrose Place because she is a local born girl. And Josie is from here. And for many years she was our spokes model. And so she has probably been our biggest maven out there in the Hollywood arena.
Paula Begoun: But you have been doing models and --
James Todd: Oh yeah.
Paula Begoun: So, in terms of your runway work, what is the worst diva-esque experience you have had? Like other than me, down a runway, doing somebody's hair backstage, what was the most diva woman backstage. Come on, dish. Give me a story.
James Todd: Oh gosh, two years ago I was in New York working for Zac Posen and it was his fall collection so we were there in February when they show early Spring/late Winter they show Fall. And it was supermodel heaven, or hell, depending on who you talked to. And I was so awestruck because I, unlike you Paula, read every fashion magazine. And I get drunk on these girls because they are the image makers. And most of the time they are really fantastic, wonderful girls.
00:14:00 Come back stage, they are sweet and they are charming and we, the team, paints on hair and makeup, and then they all of a sudden turn the corner and they are a supermodel. They are a normal girl when they come in, and they are a supermodel on the runway. But there were a few that showed up five minutes before curtain. And you have a team of seven or eight hair dresser and makeup artists and nail artists working on the girl at one time. And she is on her cell phone or on the Blackberry and she is smoking and wanting a glass of champagne and telling photographers to stay away from her.
00:14:35 There were a few of those.
Paula Begoun: Okay, that bad I am not. We could say without – so tell me, so James, for women – you know this, right, women are scared to death of their hairstylist. You know that right? We all shake in our boots going, "What if we don't like what they do? How are we going to tell them? What if we want to change to another stylist in the same salon, they are going to kill me."
00:15:03 We have this – what is it? Women are – what are we doing wrong, what is the hair stylist doing wrong? How can we do it better? What is going on?
James Todd: Well, I love this topic by the way and I was so glad you guys asked me to come back and talk about it. I think there is this thing, I think it dates back really to our first image, whether it was seeing Sassoon cutting Mia Farrow's hair and you were a little girl and saw that kind of power hairdresser thing on TV.
00:15:32 Or you saw Warren Beatty in "Shampoo" fussing with Julie Christie's locks. We have exalted the kind of star hairdresser to the point where it has just kind of gotten silly. And I really think it is the relationship with your hairdresser, it is kind of like dating. And I think if women treated it more like dating and thought about it this way, because this is how I think about it.
00:16:01 If there is a bad first date, there is no second date.
Desiree Stordahl: I like that.
Paula Begoun: I like that a lot.
James Todd: If a woman comes to visit me and I don't deliver, there is no second date. And if you have a great second date, maybe there is a third. And after several years of courtship, she trusts me. We are married. And so if I blow it, if I do something she doesn't like, because we are married, I trust she is going to tell me, because she is not afraid of me.
00:16:34 She is going to say, "Hey James, my bangs were too short. I didn't like them for two weeks." Okay, I can deal with that. "Hey James, I think we need to do something different. I'm feeling stuck." I can deal with that. The one thing I say all the time, you still have to nurture that relationship. The hairdresser has to and the woman has to be frank and honest. Because you can always get divorced, even if you are married.
Paula Begoun: That's true.
James Todd: That's true.
Paula Begoun: Actually let me tell you a situation I just had recently. A colorist I have been going to for years and I adore her, she is a doll. And I went in and I had an all-over color and I had some highlights put in. And I wanted just what I typically have, and I knew when I left – I'm always in a hurry so I am always blown out really fast. And I knew when I – and the salon I go to happens to have a very darkish color area. And I knew when I left it looked dark to me.
00:17:32 It didn't look highlighted. And then when I got back to the office and I went, "Darn," and Desiree was it you who said, "Your hair looks darker." And I went, "Oh, my god, I just got highlights."
Desiree Stordahl: Yes. It did.
Paula Begoun: And you know I called and complained and the salon did the absolute right thing and they said, well do you want to come back and have it redone. And I went, I will see this other person at this other salon. I'm a coward. I haven't told her yet that I was disappointed. But I think she must know because wouldn't they tell her that I --
James Todd: You haven't been back. Absolutely.
Paula Begoun: I'm so – what should I – but I – What, tell me. Help me?
James Todd: I think what you just said, you just said the key word. A key word in any relationship like this, where it is intimate, we are licensed to touch people. And when you are spending that kind of time with someone and you don't get the desired result, and you express that you are disappointed, rather than I'm angry or "How could you do this to me?"
00:18:38 I'm disappointed. I thought what I had in my head and what happened was different. Can we talk about this? And I think that is a great way to put it. "You know, I'm disappointed that this happened." And the thing is, we are all human, the people behind the chair and the people in the chair. The people behind the chair, our job is to try to take our emotions out of it as much as possible. And to try to be open to have a conversation.
00:19:06 I think if a woman has changed her mind about what she wanted after she leaves the salon, that is a different story. And if a woman needs to be updated and asked to be updated and is insecure or unsure about whatever she has had done because it is new to her, that is something else. But if you had a clear conversation and you had an expectation and the artist didn't deliver on the promise, you are going back and saying, "Hey, I'm disappointed.
00:19:37 I thought it was going to look like this. Can you explain this to me and what can we do about it?" And it is our job to make good on the promise.
Paula Begoun: Right. Right.
James Todd: Does that make sense?
Paula Begoun: It does. 100%. So, let me – so this goes into kind of my area of another fear factor I have with stylists is tipping. Is tipping.
00:20:03 One is that I err on the side of over-tipping because I don't want them to take their hostility out on me when I come back in, they say, "Oh there is that cheap one again." And, "Oh, I'm not going to spend." I don't know. We were talking – Desiree and Bryan, weren't we saying that we worry that the stylist is going to punish us for not being good clients?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes.
Paula Begoun: Weren't we just all saying that?
Desiree Stordahl: You get an extra [unintelligible] in your haircut.
Bryan Barron: There is that expectation – and it is their job to make you look better. And if you don't end up looking better it somehow must be your fault. Maybe you didn't communicate well enough. Maybe you had unrealistic expectations. And I'm not saying that there aren't – I'm sure James would agree, there are salon clients that absolutely come in with unrealistic expectations. But it is the stylist's job to communicate that to them in a gentle way, "No, I'm sorry we can't take your current hairstyle and make you look like Beyonce. Here's why."
James Todd: Absolutely.
Paula Begoun: Before we talk about, Bryan wanted to get into realistic expectations, but in terms of tipping. So, how do you do that? What is really the expectation of the stylist? Is it 10%, 15%, 20%? What the owner is who is cutting or styling my hair? What about the woman shampooing my hair? What do you do? I mean really is there – what is the expectation on the part of the stylist?
James Todd: Well, I think there are two things here. Being sensitive and being a licensed hairdresser myself, being sensitive to the community is I know especially young hairdressers, it is like people who are waiting tables – they live off those tips. And that is, we are taxed on them and we have to be reporting them. So, we have to be responsible to that and be a responsible part of the community and it is our lifeblood as a young hairdresser. Puts gas in your car.
00:22:01 But if we flip it on its head, and look at it this way, the word "gratuity," I always go back to this word "gratuity" because it makes me think of grateful. And if you are grateful you will leave a gratuity according to the amount of gratefulness you have. If you are not grateful –
Paula Begoun: Grateful is a good word.
James Todd: Why would you --
Paula Begoun: You know what it is, I should tell the stylist when I sit down, if you make a face at me when I ask for something, that is a demotion. That is – it reminds me of that movie with Julia Roberts and Billy Crystal, was it "American Sweetheart" where the waitress goes by the table and doesn't laugh at his joke and he says, "No laugh, no tip." And I'm thinking, that's it. That's it. But okay –
James Todd: If you are grateful for the experience you tip accordingly, that is what I would think.
Paula Begoun: So, what, between 10%, 15%, 20%? Just like you do with a waitress?
James Todd: Knowing the IRS standard, what the IRS believes hairdressers are being tipped in general is about 12.42%.
Paula Begoun: Every time you have a client they ding you 12.42% based on?
James Todd: Pretty much.
Paula Begoun: Oh, no kidding.
James Todd: Based on national standards. So, they believe that we are being tipped in that price category.
00:23:33 Paula Begoun: Oh, okay. And what about the shampoo person? What about the person shampooing my hair?
James Todd: And I think about this because I have an assistant and oftentimes people will leave a gratuity for my assistant and it is because they loved their shampoo. And I often tell my assistant, if you are not getting any tips from my guest, that means she doesn't like her shampoo. A lazy shampoo is like a lazy kisser. Nobody wants that.
Paula Begoun: Damn that is true!
James Todd: Isn't that true? So, my thing is I usually take care of my assistant out of the gratuity that has been given to me. It is my responsibility to take care of that person in their education and in their pockets. Now if someone is grateful and they feel like it was a great experience and they enjoyed their time with the assistant, it is appreciated.
Paula Begoun: So, I shouldn't reward a stylist who is screwing me up because they will just be encouraged then to go screw up with someone else. Although I won't quote you that that is what you are really saying.
00:24:33 So, realistic expectations. Do you want me to bring in a magazine picture of a haircut I admire?
James Todd: I love it. I love it. I love it --
Paula Begoun: Even though I bring in Beyonce and she is really wearing a wig and it is not her hair?
James Todd: Well, often it is an opportunity for conversation. "You know that is all extensions, right?" "Really?" You know, that is an opportunity for us to have a conversation. It's like you having a conversation about mascara that is ridiculous, that is not realistic.
00:25:03 So, for us to say, hey I love – when people bring in pictures because it tells me what they are attracted to. Not necessarily what they can have, but what they are attracted to. And maybe we can have a conversation about why they are attracted to something.
Paula Begoun: And then how you can adapt it for their hair?
James Todd: Absolutely. And my biggest piece of advice for women, if you are a blonde, only bring in pictures of blondes. If you are brunette, bring in pictures of brunettes. If you are a redhead, bring in pictures of redheads.
00:25:33 Because they photograph so differently and spend so much time in the studio and if you bring in a picture of Meg Ryan, and Paula I know you have dark, brown hair, even if I cut it exactly the same, it is never going to look like Meg Ryan's because Meg Ryan's hair reflects light differently. So, the biggest piece of advice, like the tidbit that women can put in their back pocket – look for women that don't necessarily look like them but are at least in the same color family. Then it gets a lot easier.
00:26:03 Paula Begoun: So, let me, can we take questions from callers that have to do with color or the Brazilian blowout. Can you speak to those?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes.
Paula Begoun: No, no, I'm asking, not you Desiree. I'm asking James.
Desiree Stordahl: Well, we have some on the line. At least we know that.
Paula Begoun: We do have those questions, but can you answer some of those?
James Todd: I can speak color, I can maybe make a nod to Brazilian blowout, but as someone who doesn't do chemicals for a living I am not going to be the expert in that arena.
Paula Begoun: Well, this question from Terry – can you bring Terry from Georgia up?
Desiree Stordahl: We have her on the line.
Paula Begoun: Terry?
Terry: Hello, Paula. How are you?
Paula Begoun: I'm good, Terry, how are you?
Terry: Well, I'm doing wonderful. Thank you so much for your show. I just enjoy you and Desiree and Bryan. Every week I have looked forward to it and tell all of my friends about Beautypedia. So, just really enjoy everything that you do for us.
Paula Begoun: I took the right phone call.
Terry: Absolutely you did.
Paula Begoun: Terry has a great, and I'm going to send you a ton of products, Terry; wait till you see what you are going to get in the mail.
Bryan Barron: Do we have the ego boosting queued tonight on the phone?
Terry: And I really do tell my friends at work about it and wait till I tell them tomorrow that it is now going to be free. I keep telling them, well hurry up and do it before the end of the month. I showed them how to get on the Web site and now when I can go tell them tomorrow it is going to be free for good, they are going to love it because, of course I have my subscription, but anyway.
Paula Begoun: We will get you your money back or a Paula's Choice gift certificate, so don't worry about that.
Terry: Absolutely, absolutely.
Paula Begoun: Well, Terry has a great question about highlights. It is one of my – it is one of my bugaboo's about my hair. So, Terry, would you ask James what is on your mind?
Terry: Absolutely. Absolutely. Thank you, James, for taking my call.
James Todd: Hi Terry.
Terry: And funny enough, you just kind of hit a little bit on what you were saying as far as bringing pictures when you go into the colorist. Actually I do have brunette hair, it is a little bit lighter than Paula's, and I have highlights over the years.
00:28:08 And enjoyed them. But recently felt like I wanted to go a little bit more to the lighter, blonder, caramel/honey kind of look. And brought a few pictures in and I really just pretty much just still got just the little highlights here and there. Didn't really change the way that I actually wanted it to. So, I guess my question is, and it actually happened with two different stylists.
00:28:38 So, I am wondering is there a way that they determine based on your skin color, your eye color what in their mind they think to maybe go too light without?
Paula Begoun: So, James, can help Terry out? What do you think?
James Todd: Well, I think a lot of stylists base it on hair quality. Because everything is about hair quality today.
00:29:02 Maintaining the integrity of the hair. If you take somebody more than five levels, now that is like taking not baby steps. That is like taking two stairs at a time when you are running up the stairs and if you take somebody more than five levels away from their natural hair color, most often you start to compromise the integrity. And the hair starts to look bad. And depending on your natural hair quality, oftentimes a stylist will be more cautious.
00:29:31 You know we have talked about this thing about you being afraid of hairdressers, oftentimes hairdressers are afraid. They are afraid they are going to disappoint you. They are afraid they are going to ruin your hair. They are afraid that even though you think it is going to look that maybe it won't look good, so I think there is that kind of conversation that should be had. And I think that we at Gene Juarez, I oftentimes look at because as women age they are getting grayer, they are losing pigment in their skin.
00:30:00 Skin tone is a tough thing to use as a barometer because everyone is coloring their hair now and we are all getting older. So, looking at someone's eye color, to me, the color of their iris is a really good determinant. If you have really dark chocolate brown eyes and you are trying to be Jennifer Lopez caramel, that maybe isn't the best thing for you because it is so far away from your natural.
00:30:30 But if you have gold flecks in your eyes or hazel eyes –
Terry: I have honey brown eyes.
James Todd: See, you have honey brown eyes; it would probably look great on. You think of like a Jennifer Lopez –
Paula Begoun: Really, so that rule, you find that helpful in terms of keeping, making sure you don't overdo the hair? Because what happens if you are Irish and you have black hair and blue eyes. What do you do in those situations?
James Todd: Well, that kind of determines tone. Like a black hair/blue eyed girl, she is never going to look good with yellow hair.
00:31:04 She would look good with Snow White hair. It is one of those things – it is like it is almost flip-flopping on the color spectrum. If she is jet black with fair skin and blue eyes, and all of a sudden she had white hair with blue eyes, it would be beautiful. Or she had bright red hair with blue eyes.
Paula Begoun: Really?
James Todd: Because you are doing extremes. You think about that, like a young Elizabeth Taylor –
Paula Begoun: So, you are not talking – but that is not baby steps right?
James Todd: Those are giant steps. Those are giant steps. And you have to be sure that the hair can handle it. And you may not get there overnight. You may get there over a process of six months. I think the other thing, too, people have gotten so low maintenance as a nation. We have said, "Ugh, we don't want to take care of anything. It's too much work. It's too expensive." And I think oftentimes stylists without even letting the client know and not have the conversation, stylists will say, "Well, she is not going to keep this up.
00:32:04 They will say that to themselves." And it is a bad thing to do on our part because we are making the choice for you. When you say, "Hey, I want to be caramel and I am willing to maintain it. I will be here every seven weeks," then it is up to you. But I think it is a problem in the stylist community, absolutely. People will not spend your dollars for you because they are afraid you are not going to be happy.
Paula Begoun: So, James, I'm going to take another call in just a second, but Terry tell me what kind of skin type you have?
Terry: I have probably normal, I guess, to dry skin.
Paula Begoun: And are you using my products or someone else's?
Terry: Actually am using just Oil of Olay products that you recommend and the alpha hydroxy, the AHA [unintelligible].
Paula Begoun: So, we are going to send you – I'm going to send you a whole bunch of – I'm going to send you a set of my Skin Recovery set of products for normal-to-dry skin.
00:33:06 Along with my Paula's Choice 8% AHA that I think you might like better than the Alpha Hydrox stuff. But Alpha Hydrox makes some great AHAs. So, I want you to give those products a try and thank you so much for calling, Terry.
Terry: You are welcome. Thank you Paula.
James Todd: Thanks Terry.
Terry: Thank you James.
Paula Begoun: Take care. So, we have a question – Maja from Oregon. Desiree can you bring.
00:33:31 I think I am getting her name right. It is Maja?
Desiree Stordahl: That's what it looks like. Here we go.
Paula Begoun: Maja?
Maja: Yeah, hi Paula.
Paula Begoun: Am I pronouncing your name right?
Maja: Very correct. I figured you have an Indian boyfriend, you know how to say [unintelligible].
Paula Begoun: I do have an Indian boyfriend. And he is getting cuter. I have to tell you, he actually gets his haircut – James, he gets his hair cut by Kirk at the [Bellvue].
James Todd: I love Kirk.
Paula Begoun: Gene Juarez Salon. And he makes him look very, very cute. Maja, where are you from in India?
Maja: Actually I'm not from India. I'm from Jordan but I know in Indian I think it means Divine, which I will go for.
Paula Begoun: And it is a beautiful name. Let me just remind everybody that we are talking with – well Maja, we are talking to Maja. But we are talking to James Todd, Creative Director at the Gene Juarez Salon here in the Northwest.
00:34:35 Extraordinaire, brilliant guy. General and brilliant about hair. Maja, you were asking about [Wedad] Shampoo. What is your question about Wedad?
Maja: It is a product that I buy on the Internet and I know we don't have it here in Oregon. But I have been using it for awhile and I'm pretty happy with it but I have never used other shampoos that is specifically for curly hair. So, my question is, does it really make a difference if you buy a shampoo that is made specifically for curly hair?
00:35:05 And is it worth the money? Because normally I buy it in big bottles and lately when I checked on the Internet it seems like the prices jumped. A big jump. So, I didn't know if it is worth spending the money.
Paula Begoun: So, James, do you mind if I take this question? I thought it was different what she was going to ask. Do you mind?
James Todd: No, go for it.
Paula Begoun: So, Maja, you cannot buy Wedad anymore. Cut it out. It is so not worth it. I have to tell you, Wedad, what they do best is they know about cutting curly hair. And if you were in New York City I would tell you go to the Wedad Salon, get a brilliant haircut because they really know how to cut African American hair, Semitic hair, they know Mediterranean hair. They know thick curly hair.
00:36:00 So, my niece who happens – I love this story. Sorry, so my niece lives in New York City and she has very Semitic, curly, thick, dense hair. Very corkscrew curly hair. If she puts a brush through it it grows about 20 feet out from her head.
Maja: That would be my daughter. My daughter is that way. Mine is fine. There is a lot of hair, but it is fine.
Paula Begoun: So, she wanted to know about Wedad products. I said, look, go to the salon and get a haircut. Tell me the products they want you to buy. Write down the ingredients and I will get you alternatives that will – and it was astounding the amount of money. And this was like eight years ago or so. So, it is astounding the price tag on those products. So, what I am going to strongly suggest, and James bear with me.
00:36:57 Well, first of all I am going to send you my shampoo and conditioner from my Paula's Choice line. But Pantene, whatever you might here people complain about Pantene, the truth is that all of the technology for conditioners was all done by the Pantene people. And Procter & Gamble. All of the silicon technology that everybody else in the hair care industry is using Procter & Gamble technology.
00:37:25 So, some of the best conditioners for thick hair is absolutely at the Pantene counter. On the other side of it, for finer, thinner hair, nobody does that like L'Oreal. Now you can do that at the salon with very expensive products from L'Oreal's Kerastase line. But you can go to the drug store and do it with the Fructis line or you can do it with their L'Oreal Studio line or just their L'Oreal Color Vive or their regular Vive shampoos and conditioners and your hair will be very happy. And then you need a really good fine silicon serum that is a light weight spray just for the ends.
00:38:04 And your hair will be happy and you will save money. But it is all about the haircut and not about the Wedad shampoos. I don't care how much you shampoo your hair with products that say they make it curly or condition it, without somebody like James Todd styling it afterwards, it ain't going to look good. It ain't about the shampoo or the conditioner.
Maja: Because I leave my hair curly and I use the gel that they have and the leave-in conditioner. But the haircut, like you were saying, I just feel whatever I do, any hairdresser I go to, it always looks the same. And it is almost annoying. There isn't much that they do different. And I guess maybe that is curly hair, doesn't look different.
Paula Begoun: Well, here is what it is. So, in your area is there a part of town where African American women go to get their hair done?
Maja: Not a lot. In Eugene, not a lot. We have a lot for dreadlocks, it's a hippy town.
Paula Begoun: No, no, no, no.
Maja: I'm not going there.
Paula Begoun: Yeah, we are not going in that direction. If you lived in the Seattle area or you were in a bigger city than for your hair type, the problem is that you need somebody who has experience cutting more African American, more along your ethnic lines than a typical Caucasian woman's hair. And that is the problem, really finding the expertise.
00:39:36 But if you do have a salon near you that maybe there are African American women that go there. Boy, that would be really great. But definitely, you don't have to spend the money on Wedad. Maja, so we are going to send you a shampoo and a conditioner from Paula's Choice. Maja, give me your skin type so we can send you some Paula's Choice products.
Maja: I'm more normal to a little bit dry. I'm 48 years old and I have just been using, actually about a month ago, your Resist line with the Barrier Repair Moisturizer. And actually that was another thing I was going to ask you – if I should be using the 5% Alpha Hydroxy. And I have used all the cleansing in that line.
Paula Begoun: So, you use the Resist Cleanser and the Toner and the anti-oxidant serum but you are not using the resurfacing and smoothing system?
Maja: No.
Paula Begoun: And how is your skin doing with the Resist products.
Maja: My skin loves it and loves you.
Paula Begoun: Well, Maja, I love you! Oh my god.
Maja: But you should start Paula's Choice in Jordan.
Paula Begoun: I'm telling you, I am working on it now. Maja, it is you and me kid. So, Maja, what I'm going to send you is I'm going to send you another supply so you don't have to order again online for awhile.
00:41:00 We will send you another set of Paula's Choice Resist products and I am also going to include the resurfacing system and you can play with the 10% Alpha Hydroxy acid weekly treatment and the 5% and see how your skin likes it. Go slow, read the instructions about how to use that because it is a resurfacing and smoothing system and you can play with those things. And Maja thank you for calling dear.
Maja: Thank you so much, and I tell you, I love your laugh.
Paula Begoun: And you are making me laugh.
Maja: Yeah, you know, and you are just like me. You forget everything you want to say. I forget my daughter's age sometimes. So, I love you because I feel such a wonderful successful women, they can forget, too. So, you make me feel good.
Paula Begoun: So, Maja, let me warn you, it only gets worse from here.
Maja: I know, yeah. We will make it through life. Thank you, Paula, so much.
Paula Begoun: Take care dear. Bye bye. So, Desiree do we have another question for James Todd?
Desiree Stordahl: We do. It is Mary from New Hampshire.
Paula Begoun: Hi Mary.
James Todd: Hi Mary.
Mary: Hi Paula.
Paula Begoun: Hi.
Mary: It's so great to talk to you Paula. I have been reading your books since "Blue Eye Shadow Ought to be Illegal."
Paula Begoun: Okay, we are not that old. So, you must have started like James when you were 11.
Mary: Exactly. And I stay out of the sun so I just love that advice and it really shows because I look a lot younger than many of my friends.
Paula Begoun : Doesn't that feel great? Looking younger, nothing feels better, really this is a very bitchy thing to say. Nothing feels better than looking younger than your friends. Damn that feels good. I'm sorry Mary. Ask your –
Mary: Well, I tell them, I share the secret, it's not like I keep it quiet. I have a friend who started using sunscreen of course at like 48. But at least she started using it.
00:43:00 But anyway, I'm so glad you have this guest on because I have a really important question to ask him. I got my hair straightened, and I love it, in fact I got it straightened for free from my hairdresser because she wanted to try it out. And I was like, and she said she would try it for free on me. And I was like, great, because I know it is a couple of hundred bucks to normally get your hair straightened. So, I love the effect. Except I am growing out my hair, that's why I wanted to get it straightened to help me get through the growing out period. So, now I have these two layers. I have one layer that is two inches below my ears.
00:43:31 And then the second layer is down to the bottom of my neck or lower. And I asked her the last couple of times – can you do something with the two layers, either just take a little bit off to make them blend better. And she says she does something and I see her doing something. But I get home and I do it, I straighten it, and I still have these two sort of distinct layers. And I'm wondering if your guest can help me to use some term that will make sense to her on what to do to get these two layers so they are not so standing apart.
00:44:02 And I wonder if it is just because I had it straightened and now it is just going to hang there unless it is the same length. I don't know.
Paula Begoun: James, can you help her out?
James Todd: Yes, it is tough because oftentimes when you have highly textured hair like what we were just talking about earlier, you cut highly textured hair one way and then all of a sudden you have straight hair and you might cut it very differently. So, what it sounds like you have is this leftover layer from when your hair was maybe more wavy or more textured and now you can see it. It is like there is this distinct line. When you have an issue like that, I usually say it takes at least three haircuts to get through. And that is spacing your haircuts out about two months, 8 to 10 weeks in between.
Paula Begoun: Really? So, she has to live with this bilateral kind of haircut thingy she has got going? I was going to recommend she see another stylist.
James Todd: The caveat to that might be is what you did say is that wow, maybe we should go a little shorter and backtrack on the grow-out process.
00:45:06 Which it sounds like you were willing to do. Was I correct about that?
Mary: Yes.
James Todd: Yeah, and maybe if you do that and say, "Hey, I would rather have it look pretty now and be longer in 6 months to a year" and have that conversation with your hairdresser and be a little bit more direct. If you are not getting the results you are after, Paula I think you are right. It's time to break up. They have been dating. They have been having fun.
00:45:30 She has been generous. It is time for a break up. But I also think, too, maybe what you might need to say is, it sounds like this person is really comfortable and excited about chemical services. Maybe they are great at color. They are experimenting with relaxers. Maybe you need to find somebody that is super passionate about just cutting hair. And find somebody that that is what they do best and maybe they deal with chemically straightened –
00:45:56 I think what you said about African American hair. If you have all of a sudden a new relaxer on your head. And no one has ever cut hair like that. She has never done a relaxer and now she has never cut hair like that, either. So, she is having a brand new experience right along with you. Does that make sense?
Mary: Yes.
James Todd: So, there is a certain amount of patience you want to give her. Because you are grateful because she gave you a free service. But you also say, "Hey, maybe she is not capable." And I think there is nothing wrong with shopping around. Even if it is in the same salon.
00:46:29 I know that is a touchy one. But I think as long as people are in the building and we are all making money we are doing okay. So, maybe there is a neighbor of hers. Maybe there is somebody that is in her facility that you could see and try for a change. Because sometimes it is like ordering something different. Maybe your favorite meal is sushi but every now and then you want spaghetti.
Paula Begoun: So, Mary, I want to take – Desiree, I want to take Sherry's call and hear about dry hair in a dry environment. But Mary, tell me your skin type. I'm going to send you a Paula's Choice shampoo and conditioner. But tell me your skin type so I can send you some Paula's Choice skincare products.
Mary: Yeah, it is combination. It is definitely the oily T zone and some dry stuff. In fact, Paula, I wanted to ask you this – I am using Resist with the BHA, the 2% -- I wanted to go run and look at my tube. The 2%, is that the BHA? 1% and 2%, right?
Paula Begoun: Right.
Mary: And I stopped using it for a few weeks this winter because it has been so dry here. We heat with wood. My hands are like cracking and my face is really – the dry parts are dry like around the outside of my chin and –
00:47:40 So, anyway, I stopped using it and I wondered if you had some advice. Should I use a different product for now?
Paula Begoun: So, real quick, are you using the whole Resist line?
Mary: No, I'm just using –
Paula Begoun: What products are you –
Mary: The Resist – the Skin Lightener and BHA together.
Paula Begoun: So, what are you using to wash your face with? What are you cleansing your face with?
Mary: I'm using Olay, one of the foaming cleansers you recommend. And then I'm using Clinique Toner but now I am not right now because it is too dry. I don't want to do anything but I use Clinique Toner.
Paula Begoun: You are not allowed to ever use Clinique Toner again. Okay, so here is – the foaming face wash, don't use right now. It is not the right season given what you just described. Olay's foaming face wash is a wonderful face wash. You are not allowed to use it right now.
00:48:27 I'm going to send you a group of my Moisture Boost products. I do want you to get back into the 2% -- and I'm going to send you the 2% BHA lotion. Still getting those dead skin cells off will help when it is not irritating, the anti –I don't have time to go into it. But I am going to send you my Moisture Boost products for normal-to-dry skin. But you are also going to use it with the 2% BHA lotion.
00:48:57 Do use the toner that comes with it and in fact use the toner all over and then use the moisturizer, the moisture treatment moisturizer only over the dry areas. It does have a great new sunscreen. You still need sunscreen. That is what keeps skin healthy so it can heal and be healthy and normal. And then at night over very, very dry areas I want you to use, from the neck down, I want you to use my 2% weightless body lotion all over and then take a little bit of plant oil, like Olive Oil, Flaxseed oil, Evening Primrose Oil that you can get at the health food store, Borage Oil --
00:49:37 And just use that over the very, very dry areas. And as a matter of fact Desiree I noticed that, who else had a question. Oh, Jenna who was our first caller tonight. We don't have time to take her call. But make sure we send her Slip Into Silk body lotion from Paula's Choice as well as our 2% weightless body treatment. I can't remember the names of my own products.
Desiree Stordahl: You got it right.
Paula Begoun: And we will get those out to Mary and Mary you will love me. You will be doing better and if you have any questions you will email Desiree or chat with our customer service and they will help you. I promise your skin will do better. Really, really, really. Thanks for calling Mary.
Mary: Thank you so much.
Paula Begoun: Okay, and then we are going to talk to Sherry. Desiree, can you get us Sherry.
Desiree Stordahl: We have got Sherry on the line.
Paula Begoun: Hi Sherry. You have a great question for James Todd.
Sherry: Hello.
Paula Begoun: Hi.
James Todd: Hey.
Sherry: Hey, I am out here in West Texas and it is very dry and windy all the time. And by the time I dry off out of the shower I am dry. Like so dry I am cracking already. And I was wondering is there something I can use that is not too greasy to help me just combat that day to day dryness?
Paula Begoun: For your hair or for your body?
Sherry: I have dry hair and a dry body. So, any products would be really helpful.
Paula Begoun: Actually, I'm sorry James. I'm just carrying on tonight James. So, Sherry I just have to ask because having done business in Texas for a very long time, are you one of those Texas ladies that goes every Friday to the hair salon and goes and hairsprays her hair into a helmet that doesn't move and then leaves it that way for a week? Are you one of those –
Sherry: No, but I do go on Thursdays. But no hairspray.
Paula Begoun: I'm sorry. I couldn't, forgive me –
Sherry: No, you can't resist that. The big hair. Can't resist that.
Paula Begoun: I just love my Texas ladies. I'm sorry, James, can you help Sherry out?
James Todd: Well, you know you brought something up earlier Paula which I think is so essential is finding the right silicon for you. Because that, if you have super, super dry hair, yes you need treatment in the shower, a great shampoo, a great conditioner, but oftentimes what we are talking about is the cosmetic treatment when you get out of the shower.
00:52:08 There is such thing as treatment, like we all know for skin and there is such thing as cosmetic, like lip gloss for hair. If you get the right silicon that it doesn't have too much weight on your fine hair, but actually makes it look at feel healthier and not stuck to your head. And that means trying, I think Paula has the right idea. Probably read her reviews.
00:52:30 Find the ones, the top ones, and test those out on your own hair. Because it is cosmetic. Often hair is perfectly healthy, it is just environmental which is what you are talking about, or it is exposure to lifestyle. Let's say you are a runner or you are on the boat all the time and it just looks worse than it really is. You need to dress it up. So, silicon is the key and there are so many – Paula can speak to you – so many different varieties of those. But if you can find the right one for you that doesn't weigh it down and make it flat to your head.
00:53:00 But actually cosmetically makes it look and feel better, I think you have won part of the problem right there.
Sherry: And this silicon, does it work for highly textured hair as well?
Paula Begoun: It works for everybody's hair.
James Todd: It works for everything. And then you are more fortunate because the more textured your hair is, the more irregular maybe your curl is, there are more places for that silicon to go and you don't look as sometimes as weighed down as someone with real fine straight hair.
00:53:29 You know somebody with highly textured hair, your natural oils never have a chance to make it through to the ends because they are getting caught up in all of those little –
Sherry: Cuticles or?
Paula Begoun: No, with the bends, where every bend, stops the oil from [frizzing] up and down.
James Todd: [unintelligible]. Oh, I'm sorry Paula.
Paula Begoun: No, I was just going to say what James is talking about are products that you would find at the drugstore or salon that are often referred to as Soothing Serums or Laminates or things that –
James Todd: Gloss.
Paula Begoun: And it is a clear liquidy looking, some are thicker, some are thinner, liquidy looking product on the back of the label it might say cyclomethicone, dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, and then when they are watery looking they are better for fine/thin hair. And when they are thicker clear texture, they are better for thicker, coarser hair. The trick is to experiment with how to use it. You put on too much, you are going to have an oil slick. You put on too little you won't even know you have it on. But those products are brilliant.
00:54:37 In fact Bryan, if he hasn't fallen asleep now because I know he is home and wearing his furry slippers, Bryan are you there?
Bryan Barron: I'm still here.
Paula Begoun: You didn't go to sleep?
Bryan Barron: No.
Paula Begoun: So, Bryan we need to write an article for one of our beauty bulletins on hair serums. James is right. It is such a critical cornerstone of hairstyling.
00:55:00 I think that we could do, and lord knows it is critical for my hair. I think that would be great.
Bryan Barron: And actually I wanted to mention, I have personally tested some different silicon serums that are out there and with my hair type and texture I appreciate what a silicon serum does, but I have to be really careful to not overdo it or I end up looking like an oil slick with flat hair.
00:55:28 And the only one that I have found – oh, I'm sorry James. Go ahead.
James Todd: I'm sorry to interrupt you, but my number one recommendation for someone that is maybe more fine hair that looks like an oil slick is if they wash their hair less – a lot of people are so afraid to not wash their hair because they sleep on it, it looks a mess.
Bryan Barron: That would be me.
James Todd: I say rinse your hair every day. Rinse and condition. And if you don't cleanse, the hair often looks and feels better and less dry and you can get away with less of those silicon products.
Paula Begoun: Sherry?
Sherry: Oh, sorry.
Paula Begoun: Did you know we are still talking to you, believe it or not.
Sherry: Oh, good, I heard another gentleman.
Paula Begoun: That is because Bryan, I was making Bryan – we are going to put an article up on one of our beauty bulletins, our beauty exclusive newsletters that you can sign up for at on just your subject, on hair serums and make our recommendations. So, real quick, Sherry, because we have to go and I have to say goodbye to James Todd.
00:56:31 I'm going to send you a Paula's Choice shampoo and conditioner and for your dry skin I'm going to send you our Slip Into Silk body moisturizer, our body butter, you are going to love me for my body butter. And products from our Skin Recovery line. I'm going to send you that set. And we will try to take care of your skin. I have to say goodbye to you, Sherry, but James Todd –
Sherry: Thank you.
Paula Begoun: You are welcome dear. So, James Todd, the Creative Director for the Gene Juarez Salon. Brilliant, brilliant stylist.
00:57:00 Absolutely leads the work at the Gene Juarez Salons. If you are in the Northwest, I can't imagine a better place to get taken care of. The most professional group of stylists I have run into and I travel the world. And James Todd is the one who heads up that level of excellence at the Gene Juarez Salon. James, thank you for talking to us again. You know I am going to nail you again to come back and talk to us.
James Todd: Hey, it's my pleasure. I love your team and I love being a part of your show. We really appreciate it.
00:57:30 And we love your audience.
Paula Begoun: Thank you so much James. Talk to you next time.
James Todd: Take care.
Paula Begoun: Take care. So, we are almost off to Thailand and we have taken care of everybody's hair concerns although I know that there are a million more that we will get James Todd back to go over. I mean gosh there is long hair, short hair, so much to talk about. But next week. Desiree and I are going to be doing the show from Thailand. Bryan is going to be here in Seattle keeping the home fires warm. We are going to talk next week about Splurge versus Steal. Those expensive products you are using, we are going to help you find the inexpensive ones.
00:58:12 On the 10th, 10 skincare tips we guarantee will transform your skin really, really, really. So, on the 10th. And on the 17th, because Bryan has to get – I'm flying back from Thailand and Bryan is getting married that Saturday where he is going to be not talking to you guys because he is preparing, and lord knows he has been preparing for weeks.
00:58:37 So, Bryan and Desiree –
Bryan Barron: Months!
Paula Begoun: Actually it has been months. But I thought I would – okay. So, Bryan and Ben's wedding – we will make sure to wish him all the best. It's not yet, it is on the 19th, 18th, 19th, 18th. Bryan what is the date?
Bryan Barron: It is on Saturday March 19th.
Paula Begoun: Saturday March 19th. So, on the 17th none of us – we will be rerunning a show with Dr. Brandon Irwin, "Looking younger without surgery."
00:59:08 It was one of our most popular shows. You still need to listen to it. It was incredible. So, I'm Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, with my Paula's Choice Team, Bryan Barron and Desiree Stordahl.
00:59:21 And we are hear every Thursday live and archived, keeping your beautifully informed so that you can make the best decisions for your hair, body, everything, face, skin, any place, so that you absolutely don't waste money because waste on skincare or makeup or hair care – because wasting money isn't pretty and – Oh, remind everybody, Beautypedia is free. It's free! Talk to you next week. Have a beautiful week. Stay beautiful. Take care.
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