Hair Makeover Tips with the Pros

Airdate: 11/20/12

Find out how to get the best haircut, color or style with tips from hair pro Ashley Mecham and the Paula's Choice Research Team.


Bryan Barron: Hi there everyone. You are listening to Be Beautifully Informed with the Paula's Choice Research Team. It's Tuesday evening, 6 o'clock Pacific Time on November 20th. We're a couple days away from the big Thanksgiving holiday that is celebrated throughout the United States, so it's a short work week for most of us.
00:00:25 And with me on the line tonight, as always, is the co-host and producer, Desiree Stordahl. Hi Desiree.
Desiree Stordahl: Hi Bryan.
Bryan Barron: Desiree has had a very long day and she has a funny story to relay in just a moment. But before she tells that, tonight's topic is hair makeover tips. And we have special guest Ashley Mecham. And Ashley is a Seattle area hairstylist, hair colorist. She's essentially a style maven. We'll be introducing her in more detail in just a moment, but we're very excited to have her here once again.
00:01:04 She will be taking your questions, so if you are listening, just to listen, and during the broadcast you think, "You know, I want to ask Ashley something," you can make sure that you either get in touch with the producer or if you're listening online you can call us at 347-426-3783 and ask your questions.
00:01:29 So, Desiree, you were up in Canada today and had a bit of a story to share before your media appearance, huh?
Desiree Stordahl: Yeah. So I was up there doing a show called Breakfast TV. And it was a beauty segment all about deals, and steals, and beauty bargains. And, you know, I was getting ready in the morning. I was going through my normal routine, did my makeup and my hair, and I was waiting to put my outfit on for the very last little bit before I was leaving the hotel, because I didn't want to…
Bryan Barron: About what time was this? How early was this?
Desiree Stordahl: Oh, it wasn't super early. It was around 7 o'clock – 7am.
00:02:08 So not – not too horribly bad, but still early in the morning. So, just as I'm putting on my dress, it's literally like the five minutes before I have to jump into my cab to leave for the studio, and the zipper gets stuck. And it will not budge. So, luckily I had my sister traveling with me, so she comes around and starts to mess with the zipper, and whoosh, off flies the zipper. It completely busts.
00:02:35 And this dress, it wasn't like I could have safety pinned it because it was almost all the way zipped up. No. This was a low-back zipper. So, there was no salvaging it.
Bryan Barron: Oh my gosh.
Desiree Stordahl: Thank god I had a separate backup dress packed with me. So, I was able to pull that out. But, the story gets better because the original dress had long sleeves and henceforth I really didn't have to worry about shaving my armpits.
00:03:00 Now, it's not like I had Sasquatch situation on or anything, but you know, if you're going to be on TV you definitely give yourself a clean shave that morning.
Bryan Barron: Oh, yeah.
Desiree Stordahl: So, I'm like, oh my gosh. My backup dress is sleeveless and all of the sudden I just realized I forgot to pack my razor. So, I have to call down to the front desk, have them send up a razor, all of this literally is happening five minutes before I have to head out the door. We switch outfits, shave my armpits, go.
00:03:29 Thank god all that went over and I was able to move on and not be stressed out for the rest of the day. But, it was a bit frazzling first thing in the morning to realize, oh my gosh, what I thought I was going to wear is not going to work. And it's kind of like Murphy's Law. Like whatever is going to wrong, it's going to go wrong right before I'm about to go onto television it seems like. So, note to self – if you're ever going to be on TV make sure to bring your backup outfit, your backup nylons, your backup shoes, and your backup razor, because apparently you might need it.
Bryan Barron: And I take it the on-air stuff went well?
Desiree Stordahl: The on-air stuff went well.
00:04:07 I actually saw that our social media maven, Nathan, already posted the clip online so people can watch it there and it's, again, all about beauty steals and deals, beauty bargains, areas that you don't need to spend as much money on for your products.
Bryan Barron: Yeah, he sure did. He is all over the Paula's Choice Facebook page. And, in fact, we have some great questions already on the page from some of our fans, questions for our special guest, Ashley Mecham.
00:04:38 Are you there Ashley? I think she's on the line.
Ashley Mecham: There we go.
Desiree Stordahl: Ashley, can you hear us?
Ashley Mecham: Hi, yes, hi, how are you?
Bryan Barron: There she is.
Desiree Stordahl: Good.
Bryan Barron: So, Ashley, you're with us again. I think it's been a little over a year or so since your last appearance on the radio show. And I take it you have some news you wanted to share. There's been kind of a big change in your life lately.
Ashley Mecham: Yes, there has, an exciting change that I am so thrilled about.
00:05:09 I have recently become a salon owner.
Desiree Stordahl: Ooh! Congratulations.
Bryan Barron: Yay!
Ashley Mecham: Yeah. Thank you.
Desiree Stordahl: So what's the name of your salon?
Ashley Mecham: It is called the Style Lounge.
Desiree Stordahl: And is that the website.
Ashley Mecham: My website, I actually have a Facebook page for it right now, which is the Style Lounge.
00:05:29 And then I have an online booking website which is www.styleseat/AshleyMecham.com.
Bryan Barron: And for those curious, Ashley's last name is spelled M-E-C-H-A-M. But, Ashley, probably the easiest thing to do is just to look for Style Lounge on Facebook, right?
Ashley Mecham: Oh yeah. And you can even book online directly from my Facebook page.
Bryan Barron: Ben did that. My husband Ben will be coming to see you on Friday.
Ashley Mecham: I saw!
Bryan Barron: I told you I was working on him. I was like, "Honey, you've got to go see Ashley. She's just right down the street."
Ashley Mecham: Yeah, I'm definitely excited. We just did a big photo shoot yesterday for the big marketing campaign and it's really all coming together. And it's been a great ride so far and it's just begun.
Bryan Barron: So, Ashley, I saw the photo. Did you do all the hair?
Ashley Mecham: Yes. It's the same model. And it's four different looks.
00:06:31 In our industry there are four different types of clients, and so every look represents the type of client. And we're basically saying at the Style Lounge we have you covered, whatever your look is.
Desiree Stordahl: And where is your salon located?
Ashley Mecham: It's in Maple Valley. Maple Valley, Washington. It's about 30, 45 minutes south of Downtown Seattle.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay, great.
Ashley Mecham: Yeah.
Bryan Barron: All right, Desiree, let's – Ashley, I know we've got some questions for you.
00:07:03 We've got some questions from our listeners, from our Facebook fans, so let's dive right into this hair and makeover tips topic now that we have you ready to go.
Ashley Mecham: Okay, sounds good.
Desiree Stordahl: I have a questions, actually the first one coming from our Facebook fan Sarah G. She wants to know what kind of haircuts would flatter an oval-faced shape.
Ashley Mecham: Well, luckily oval face shape is the most flattering face shape considered in the industry.
00:07:35 They're known to be able to wear really any kind of haircut, if it's short, if it's long. It's considered the most proportionate face shape and so sometimes with different face shapes you're trying to overall create an oval face shape. So, really, depending – I have to say kind of go with it with more of your maintenance style and how much you want to work at with styling in the morning compared to face shape. You'll probably get a better end result that way.
Desiree Stordahl: And what are the face shapes that you do need to pay attention to with certain particular haircuts on.
00:08:13 Like is it the square? Is it the heart face shape? What are the ones where you would have a specific style that flatters you more or less?
Ashley Mecham: I think what I see a lot of women struggle with is when they have a very long face shape. A lot of times they feel like when, I guess you would kind of call that somewhat square or even a diamond face shape. What happens is they feel that their hair drags them down and their face shape is dragging down.
00:08:44 And so that's where there is a lot of problems with trying to find a good hair style that will lift things up, and usually something that is away from the face and lots of volume through the top help kind of equalize that face shape out.
00:09:02 Usually like a heart shape is really good with a nice long layer. A round face shape you want to stick with something that's mid-length to longer, because that's going to help draw the eye down more to kind of elongate that circular shape.
Desiree Stordahl: Is there a certain face shape that can pull off bangs better than others?
Ashley Mecham: Oh, definitely. And it's not necessarily the face shape per se, it's more of the size of the forehead. So, as stylists we look at always that we can create more of an oval shape.
00:09:40 And so if you have a very short forehead, bangs usually are not that great. If you have more of a larger forehead, kind of like Tyra Banks, bangs are really good to help kind of make everything more proportionate from the forehead to the nose, to the chin.
00:10:01 If you have high cheek bones bangs are also really nice to accentuate the cheekbones as well.
Desiree Stordahl: You know who used to have bangs and it looked great on her was Britney Spears, but lately she's been rocking the no-bang look, and you're right, her forehead is long and she could use some bangs there. Have you noticed that?
Ashley Mecham: Yeah. I don't know what to say about Britney. She's kind of just a [laughs]. But, I think the industry has really gone back and forth with trying to grow bangs out, bring bangs back in.
00:10:33 Bangs is kind of a love/hate relationship. You know, they can really change an overall look with something that's a really quick trim. And it could really make a big difference on making your look completely different. But, growing them out is something that I think everybody just goes through a period that they just want to shave them off. And so it's – I guess now though they're offering bang extensions, so if people don't want to make the commitment of actually cutting off their bangs they can go ahead and buy a clip-in extension piece and call it a day.
Desiree Stordahl: I have seen those in the store.
00:11:15 I have not yet ventured to try one. And I'm just a little leery of how well they would blend in with the rest of your hair. I mean, obviously you would need to find one that matches your hair color pretty well, but to me it's just hard to believe that they could look that good, but I know celebs do it, so it must work.
Ashley Mecham: Yeah. And it also matters what kind of hair it is.
00:11:35 You know, any time you are using extensions the better the hair, usually the more expensive, the more it's going to match your natural texture and it will be easier to hide.
Desiree Stordahl: Right.
Bryan Barron: You know, as a quick aside, Ashley you had mentioned earlier that the hair stylists are striving to create, regardless of someone's face shape, if they don't have an oval face shape that's the aesthetic that you're going for, correct?
Ashley Mecham: Yes.
Bryan Barron: Ideally.
00:12:06 And not too long ago I read an interesting study, it was basically a compilation of questionnaires they'd given to different cultures around the world. And they had shown different cultures' face shapes, from people that match that cultural look, so it's not like they were showing a clearly Caucasian/Western-looking women, pictures of those women to Polynesian women so that they're looking at a beauty ideal, an Americanized ideal of beauty.
00:12:40 And every culture the oval face shape was preferred by a wide margin.
Ashley Mecham: Yeah.
Bryan Barron: So, it's interesting, it's almost like the eye is drawn to that – there's something intrinsic about that face shape that people tend to find most attractive.
Desiree Stordahl: Yeah, I mean, I guess it's just more of having all of your features being proportionate but then again, too, you know, I think that beauty comes with everybody within.
00:13:07 And if you have something that isn't as proportionate as the other, I mean, that's what makes you exotic and I also say, you know, show it off.
Desiree Stordahl: Amen, sister. I love that.
Ashley Mecham: Yeah.
Desiree Stordahl: What new trends with cut and color are worth considering? Is there anything hot and new for 2013? Or something that you've seen this year?
Ashley Mecham: We definitely are seeing, you know, it's been kind of popular for awhile, the balayage ombre look.
00:13:38 That still is pretty popular considering that we're still kind of in a tight economy. And that way you can get a really fun color but has a lot longer lasting results. And it's less in upkeep with cost-wise for maintenance. A lot of really natural looks are still in just because it is an easier maintenance upkeep.
00:14:08 Natural texture is really in right now. I really think the industry is trying to bring back perms, but…
Desiree Stordahl: Really?
Ashley Mecham: …it hasn't worked. Yeah, they have been for awhile, but the problem is everybody chemically treats their hair, and I think the 80's really scared a lot of people.
00:14:30 So, but we're seeing a lot more natural texture. A lot more wave. A lot more curl. Not that really straight flatiron look. Just kind of a really fresh, bouncy, full kind of look, in all lengths, not just long hair but shorter hair as well.
Desiree Stordahl: So, I am really intrigued by the perm comeback. Certainly they must have become more elegant. There must be new ways of doing it more of a wave?
00:15:02 Or what have you seen so far with the perm?
Ashley Mecham: Unfortunately I don't have a lot of positive things to say about because they know that probably 40% of the people, of people in this industry that color their hair use bleach in their hair. And the chemicals with bleach and the chemicals with perms don't react very well.
00:15:28 So they had to really soften up their perm solutions so that there wasn't a lot of over-processing and breakage. And so what I have found personally with the perming is that they are just not strong enough. And so you at first can get a really beautiful, natural-looking wave but it doesn't last. And then you end up with some inconsistency down the road that's kind of hard to deal with.
Desiree Stordahl: Right.
00:16:02 And then you put your hair through that for no reason essentially.
Ashley Mecham: Exactly. I think there's still a little bit more that needs to be done in kind of that aspect to really hit the nail on the head when it comes to bringing them back.
Desiree Stordahl: And what's a low commitment way to try a new hair color? Is semi-permanent going to work? Or what would you do for somebody who wants to try something new but they're a little apprehensive?
Ashley Mecham: Okay.
00:16:32 So, what I would suggest, if you want to try something new I would either go to a beauty supply store and have them help you pick out a semi-permanent color that washes out. I would not suggest pulling a semi-permanent off the shelves in a grocery store because there's still ammonia in it. It might not say ammonia, it might be a different word for ammonia, but usually you still get lift and you'll still have grow out.
Bryan Barron: Ashley, they want to look for a level one color, right?
Ashley Mecham: No. No, you don't want to look for a level one color.
00:17:15 That's considered black in our industry.
Bryan Barron: Oh, what we've seen is, for example, a permanent color would be level three. Demi or semi-permanent is level two. And then the rinse out type colors are considered level one. Maybe that's changed.
Ashley Mecham: Yes. I would just look for – if you want something that's going to rinse out within three weeks and not leave any kind of line of demarcation/grow out I would go with a semi-permanent. If you want something that is going to kind of make your blonds brighter or richen up your brunettes I would go with a temporary that comes out between washes.
00:18:03 And then you have your permanent hair color. And if they do go by numbers, 1, 2, and 3, they should say under it semi, permanent, or temporary hair color.
Bryan Barron: Got it. Okay.
Desiree Stordahl: Speaking of hair color, Amy S. on Facebook has a good question. She says, "Is there any way to cover the gray skunk stripes in between professional colorings?"
Ashley Mecham: Yeah, you know, what I would definitely do is if you have a client that wants to come in often but, you know, sometimes you just can't budget to do it every three weeks. When you have a lot of gray you see it after 2.5 to 3 weeks. And what I tend to do is my clients will purchase a tube of color from me, I write out how to mix it, and then they just do it on their own between services.
Desiree Stordahl: Oh, that's nice.
00:18:57 Actually, I don't know if I've ever had a stylist ever suggest something like that. But I think that's a great tip.
Ashley Mecham: And it works out well because usually I don't suggest them doing it more than every other time because the consistency of the color will kind of waver. But usually if it's just, you know, to put it in your part or around your hair line then you usually that can get them by. Or, you know, something like a, what's really good to use, too, and Bumble and Bumble carries this product.
00:19:31 It's a hair powder that actually has a little bit of tint in it. And so it's a spray on, like a dry shampoo, and you can spray it directly onto your roots and it will cover up the roots until you wash it the next time.
Bryan Barron: There's that. Sephora I've seen sells a paint-on type product. And then Paula's Choice, we have our Brow Hair Tint which comes in a blonde and a couple of brunette shades.
00:20:00 And products like that, they have the mascara type applicator. Those are great for kind of taming those and briefly tinting, meaning that it will cover up the gray like Ashley just said until your next shampoo. But they can work in a pinch; you know, if you catch yourself under a stronger light and you see some gray strands pops up. But if you've got a big line of gray roots showing, I think what Ashley is doing for her clients is great. Just giving them some of their actual, the same color you use.
00:20:31 Take it home, when you need it, and that will extend the time.
Ashley Mecham: What's so great about that is I think some clients that have a really strong amount of gray, especially in their part line, they really waver from having darker hair color because of that reason. And so this way, you know, it kind of opens up the door for them to have a larger spectrum of color compared to just having them stick with something that's going to blend out their grow out.
Bryan Barron: Okay.
00:21:07 So, we have another color question; not surprisingly a lot of these questions are color-based, but this is from our fan Terry on Facebook. And I've wondered this myself. She asks, "Why does my hair color grab dark around my face compared to the rest of my hair when doing root touchups? Even when done by a professional this happens and I can't stand it."
Ashley Mecham: Usually it's because the hair is finer.
00:21:34 The hair kind of gets a lot of the environmental elements, the cuticles breaking down a little bit more since it's finer. So, it just grabs the pigment a lot quicker. The best way to do it is always do around the hair line last with your application.
Bryan Barron: Okay. When someone is dyeing their hair at home are you a proponent of the strand test? I know a lot of the dye companies recommend it, and then I'll see that and think, "Yeah, but how many people actually do it?" It's actually really important to do it if you want to be sure of the results you're going to get, but personally I've never taken the time to do it.
Ashley Mecham: You know, I really think it does take a lot of time.
00:22:22 And I think there's so many different inconsistencies in someone's hair strand from past use of color, from product, from just damage that it's not going to come up that [unintelligible]. And so what I always – I do suggest it for people that may have allergies to the, sorry about that, to the hair color. Because some people are really sensitive to the chemicals. And for that I would suggest doing a patch test so that they don't get hives or break out in a rash.
Bryan Barron: That's excellent.
00:23:04 Just to be clear, though, there's a patch test which they recommend and then a strand test where you're actually snipping off a bit of your hair and putting the dye on.
Ashley Mecham: Yes.
Bryan Barron: So, just didn't want to – those are two separate tests and the patch test is absolutely something to do – if you've had an allergic reaction, absolutely. But even if you haven't, if you've never colored your hair before that can be a very, very good way to play it safe because a reaction to hair dye at home can be pretty scary.
Ashley Mecham: Yeah.
00:23:34 And you know, also, even if you're using a different brand, if you go from – because everybody's brand's formula is different. So, if you're trying a new brand, and if you are just really, if you have really sensitive skin it's usually just a good thing to do. If you are having a reaction, if you're really itchy, something you can do is take an antihistamine or a Benadryl and that usually helps.
Bryan Barron: Okay.
00:24:03 What color line did you go with at your salon?
Ashley Mecham: I use Wella.
Bryan Barron: Okay. I like that one.
Desiree Stordahl: Are there certain factors we should be considering when trying to figure out which tones and hair color are the best for us? Eye color? Your eye brow color? Skin tone? Does all of that come into play?
Ashley Mecham: Oh, definitely. If you have more of an olive skin tone you want to think of in the darker shades richness.
00:24:32 You really want to pull off that eye color. If you have warmer skin tone you want more of a neutral-based hair color. If you have warm skin you don't want warm hair. So, if you have blue eyes, you know, and more of a pinky kind of skin tone you can go with more of a golden kind of shade. What I would suggest doing is kind of see what makeup artists say about your skin tone.
00:25:06 That helps to kind of figure out where you're at. Or, usually any high end salon offers complimentary consultations. So, you can always schedule a free 15-minute consultation and ask them to tell you what tones would look good on my skin, or what tones would be best on my eye color. And then that kind of takes the guessing game out of it.
Bryan Barron: Does that include the Style Lounge?
Ashley Mecham: Yes, that does.
00:25:32 That does.
Desiree Stordahl: And are there any hair tools out on the market right now that women tend to overlook or that are new to the market that we should give a chance?
Ashley Mecham: You know what I think what women overlook but definitely are not new is hot curlers.
Desiree Stordahl: Yes! I love them.
Ashley Mecham: Exactly. That natural, full texture is really in right now. And we as women are amazing multitaskers.
00:26:06 And once you get the pattern down to put them in your hair, you can whip those in in five minutes. You have two hands free to make breakfast, or get your child ready, or whatever it is you need to do and then you pull them out, and shake your hair a little bit, and it will hold you style for most of the day. You know, I think people are really trying to step away from the flatiron. Again, a lot of wands are really popular now.
00:26:34 They're kind of those curling irons without the springs. Those are really big. They're a little hard to use at first. They're hard to get used to, but they give you more of a natural beachy kind of wave compared to more of a spiral curl.
Desiree Stordahl: Right. And then we have so many caller questions right now between Facebook and our callers for the show.
00:26:59 So, I'm going to jump in and take a question from Wanda in New Jersey. Wanda, are you there?
Wanda: Yes, I'm here.
Desiree Stordahl: Hi Wanda. Go ahead with your question for Ashley.
Wanda: Thank you for taking my call. I have long, coarse hair. I'm African America. It's down past my shoulders and I'm always looking for the best treatments. So, my question is about conditioners. Does it make a difference if you leave a conditioner on for a couple of minutes or adding heat to it, for example, for about 30 minutes. Does it really matter?
00:27:31 Or am I just wasting a lot of time?
Ashley Mecham: Sometimes it does really matter. It's good to do the conditioning treatments where you would keep it on for a long period, like once a week. If your hair has enough moisture, or all the moisture it's going to take, it's just going to sit on top of the cuticle and it's not going to absorb anymore. So, what I suggest doing once a week, you can use whatever your favorite moisturizing conditioner.
00:28:06 Don't use a protein conditioner for this. Use a moisturizing conditioner. And put it in your hair. You can put a plastic cap over or wrap your head in Saran Wrap. That's going to keep the heat from your scalp in. And through a towel in the dryer. Let it get nice and warm, and then wrap your hair with it. And that will really have the cuticle open up and absorb as much moisture as it can handle. And that way, you know, you're not wasting product and/or your time.
Wanda: Okay.
00:28:38 So, would you say about 20, 30 minutes would be really about the maximum? That's about as much time as it's going to really take to absorb?
Ashley Mecham: I'd say 15. I mean, I wouldn't go past 15. The more porous your hair is, the quicker it's going to soak up. And if you have curly, coarser hair it's going to soak it up pretty fast.
Wanda: Okay.
00:29:01 So, once a week you would say?
Ashley Mecham: Yes. I would do it once a week. And a good product to try – have you ever tried Ojon?
Wanda: I have. But I've just tried the pre-shampoo treatment. You put that on before you actually do the first shampoo. But I haven't tried the Ojon conditioners after you shampoo.
Ashley Mecham: Try it. You may like it. It has a lot of really nice oils in it that I think really help make the hair tamable.
00:29:33 And, you know, to make a comb get through it real nicely and it has a lot of shine in it. I really like it.
Wanda: Okay, good. Thank you.
Ashley Mecham: You're welcome.
Desiree Stordahl: And Wanda we're going to send you our Smooth Finish Conditioner as a thank you for calling in and something for you to try as well.
Wanda: Okay, perfect. Thanks so much.
Desiree Stordahl: All right. Thanks for calling in.
Wanda: Okay. Bye-bye.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay, we have another question on the line. This one is from Ileana in California.
00:29:59 Ileana, you're on the air.
Ileana: Yes, hi, good evening. My question was I've been thinking about dyeing my hair red, so I mean, what brands – what shades of red from what brand would you recommend? And I mean what treatments or what I need to do to keep it, you know, that red and vibrant for a really long time?
Ashley Mecham: Well, you need to decipher what kind of red you want to go for.
00:30:31 Fashion shades are really popular right now, and those are more artificial tones, kind of like your Rihanna red. Are you wanting to go like that bright or more of a natural red?
Ileana: More of a deeper kind of red. Not too bright, not too dark. In between.
Ashley Mecham: Okay. So, something that maybe when the light hits it you can see a fair amount?
Ileana: Yes, yes.
Ashley Mecham: Okay. And are you wanting to do this at home or in a salon?
Ileana: Well, I'm not sure because a lot of the at-home kits, they tend to – what the color turns out to be on your hair kind of tends to vary.
00:31:10 So, I was wondering what would be best.
Ashley Mecham: First and foremost, I would suggest, again, calling some of your higher end salons, asking them if they do any advanced training and if they need any models. Usually you can be put on a model list and you can get your hair done for free.
00:31:31 And it's usually done under training and they would never have you walk out with bad hair. Same with local beauty schools. You're going to get professional products. But, if you were to do this at home I would suggest doing a semi-permanent color that is within your same natural tones. So, you're just looking to add tone, not to be any lighter. Does that make sense?
Ileana: Yes.
Ashley Mecham: Because if you saw somebody with really red vibrant hair on a box and you were to grab it, it's going to lift more orangey.
00:32:12 If you pick a semi-permanent color, it doesn't have any power to lift your hair. It's just going to deposit that red tone on to what you already have.
Ileana: Oh, okay. So, where can I get this? Would it also be in like the drugstores or would I have to go to like Sally Beauty or something like that?
Ashley Mecham: I would, you know what?
00:32:35 I would even go to Sally's Beauty Supply and ask one of the ladies that work there if she can point you into the direction of semi-permanent colors. And it's going to be less expensive there, too. So, it's better for your hair, it's less expensive; it's kind of a win-win situation. You can get professional help while you are there.
00:33:00 And, you know, you could also ask her for different kind of color shampoos and conditioners to maintain that vibrancy of red, so you don't have to do it so often.
Bryan Barron: With conditioners, conditioners being more beneficial than the shampoos. When I worked at Aveda years ago I spoke with one of the chemists who formulated Aveda's color conditioners, and at the time they still had their personal blends which we could actually make up in the store for you and make a little bit more intense. But, basically, the dye ingredients they use in those products, they don't have a great ability to cling to hair, but you're going to get a much better chance of them sticking around in a conditioner versus in a shampoo because most of what's in a shampoo is designed – a shampoo is designed to take things away and a conditioner is designed to add things back. So, it just, you can use a color-enhancing shampoo, but if you're not using a conditioner, a color-enhancing conditioner, it's kind of not worth your time.
Ashley Mecham: Or you money.
Bryan Barron: Right.
Ileana: So, I would need a –
00:34:07 So, what if I – so, say I buy a shampoo that is not color-enhancing so that won't really matter as long as I have the color-enhancing conditioner? Or would I just need to buy both in general?
Ashley Mecham: Buy a color-supporting shampoo. So, what you will see is it will say, "Color Care Shampoo" or "Color Safe."
00:34:30 That's just going to be really low ph's. So, it won't really open the cuticle that much to help the color fade. And then you want to buy an actual color conditioner that actually has a little bit of tint in them. And they have these at beauty supplies.
Bryan Barron: Oh, absolutely, yeah.
Ashley Mecham: And if you ask the people that are working there they would be happy to show you the difference as well.
Ileana: Okay, sounds great.
00:35:00 Thank you very much.
Ashley Mecham: Definitely.
Desiree Stordahl: Thank you, Ileana. And we'll be in touch with you to send you some Paula's Choice products. So, Ashley, we're going to switch back to a Facebook question. This one is from Karen Walker and she wants to know what's the best thing for giving hair shine. She says she's in her mid-40s with fine hair that tends to fall flat.
Ashley Mecham: And she wants to get more shine?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes.
Ashley Mecham: So, this is where it's kind of a struggle because either she gets a lot of shine products, the hair is going to fall really flat. And it's going to just be kind of heavy. The best thing to do is, if you want to do this, again, in a salon, or at home – if you go to a beauty supply store they have a thing called Colorless Color.
00:35:54 It's usually marked Zero-Zero. It's a semi-permanent, so it lasts for three weeks, but it has no color in it. It's just pure shine. So, it's like putting a layer of glass on the cuticle. It actually really helps with the condition of hair as well. And it will last up to three weeks depending on how often you shampoo. That would be my first suggestion. If you have really fine hair, a good product that I would use would be Featherless – I think they're called Featherless Gloss Drops.
00:36:34 And they're also by Bumble and Bumble that I think they have at Sephora. They're great for fine hair. They're really, really light. But that's more of a topical use and it's going to come out between washes. If she kind of wants more of something that lasts a little bit longer I think that's the easiest.
Desiree Stordahl: And with the colorless product, when you're buying something like that from a beauty supply store do you need some sort of special license? Or can anybody go in there and buy that?
Ashley Mecham: Anybody can buy it.
Desiree Stordahl: Perfect.
Ashley Mecham: There's absolutely no way you can mess up your hair with it. All it's going to do is put shine and condition in your hair. It actually will reflect the light off of your hair.
Bryan Barron: And even at the drugstore I've seen both a Clairol, I think it's called Shine Happy, and John Frieda make a – it's actually just called like Shine Glaze.
Ashley Mecham: Yeah. Glazes are another word for them.
Bryan Barron: Okay.
00:37:35 I tried the Clairol one a couple of years ago, like in between when my highlights were starting to look a bit dull. And, you know, I wasn't all that impressed with it. So, I'm almost more inclined to tell Karen to experiment with the different option at Sally Beauty. But I've heard good things, if you can't find something like that at a beauty supply store, Karen, I've heard good things about the Glaze from John Frieda which you should be able to find in most Ulta or Rite-Aid stores.
Ashley Mecham: Oh, definitely.
Desiree Stordahl: What about – what is a good product to tame fly-aways in this cold, dry air we have going on right now?
Ashley Mecham: Actually, funny thing, it's not necessarily the product.
00:38:18 It's what you don't want to do.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay, what's that?
Ashley Mecham: What you don't want to do is touch your hair. So, what happens with fly-aways is the oils from our hands bring them out.
Desiree Stordahl: They bring them out?
Ashley Mecham: Yes. So, the more you constantly touch your hair, or brush, you know, readjust it or move it, the oils are what's going to make your hair fly away.
00:38:42 So, the best thing to do is really use a good finishing hair spray to hold your style, and then try not to touch it the rest of the day, especially if you're having one of those static days that are fun. Another thing you can do, if the static is out of control though, and it's making you crazy, you can take a dryer sheet and rub your hands on them, and then kind smooth it over the top of your hair.
00:39:09 And that usually will help calm down some of the static. Other than that, oh, I'm sorry, go ahead.
Desiree Stordahl: I've heard that tip a lot of times and it's one that I keep forgetting to actually try. So, okay, tomorrow I know what I'm going to be doing, because I do get the fly-aways. It's almost counter-intuitive though. You would think that the oils from your hands could almost kind of help tame them down and lay them down, but interesting that that's what brings them out.
Ashley Mecham: Well, the oils contain moisture. And if you have any kind of curl in your hair, or wave in your hair, or coarseness in your hair, that's going to change the texture of those fly-aways.
00:39:52 And so they're going to stick out compared to the rest of your hair.
Desiree Stordahl: Who would have thunk?
Ashley Mecham: I know.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay. Let's go back onto Facebook. Bryan, were there any Facebook questions you wanted to take in particular?
Bryan Barron: There was an interesting question from Meredith. And she wants to know, and Ashley let me know, you probably have clients that have this same issue, but Meredith has hair that's curly around the sides and the back, but nearly straight at the top of her head. And she can't figure out what to do with those competing textures.
00:40:30 How should she style that hair?
Ashley Mecham: That is pretty common with all naturally curly hair, especially if you have babies. That definitely changes the texture in not consistent areas. So, other ways – what you can do is, you know, you can always utilize the use of your curling iron to help with the consistency. Or, there are services you can get in the salon that can help take some of that curl out so you're not fighting it so much to match your straighter texture.
Bryan Barron: Are you referring to like a Brazilian Blow Out or the Keratin Hair Straightening treatment?
Ashley Mecham: That's one of them.
00:41:16 Another one is simply the shampoo bowl you can run perm solution over your hair and comb it. And what that does it is helps pull a little bit of the wave out.
Bryan Barron: Oh, so it really comes down to, for Meredith's situation, whether or not she wants to embrace the straight or the curly?
Ashley Mecham: Yes.
Bryan Barron: Okay. So, you're suggesting that if she wants to embrace the curly then she uses a curling iron at the top of her head?
Ashley Mecham: Yes.
00:41:47 And not everywhere. Just because, you know, no matter what curly hair is inconsistent in its texture. So, you wouldn't want to curl the entire top of your head and make it look like prom hair. You know, you just grab some random pieces and then put, you know, flip your head upside down and take some hairspray and scrunch it all together. And that will give you more of a natural appearance.
Bryan Barron: Okay.
Desiree Stordahl: And, Ashley, a quick question. Do you have us on speaker phone by any chance? I hear a little bit of echoing.
Ashley Mecham: Oh, no, I don't.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay. I think it's something funky going on on our end, but the show will go on.
00:42:24 We have another question, this one comes from Kim R. on Facebook. And she wants to know if there's a great style for women over 50? She previously had an inverted diamond shape, she said, and she's looking for something new.
Ashley Mecham: Well, it all depends. A lot of people are kind of stuck in this if you're older you have to cut your hair short. I think the whole trick of it is to really find styles that are going to accentuate your cheek bones, your jaw line, all the parts of your face that, you know, have angles to it. So, if that's going to be a longer style, I mean, I wouldn't do anything that's longer than the collar bone because that is going to elongate the face.
00:43:14 But I would suggest focusing on possibly more layering around the face. You know, you want to keep volume in the top. But, I would embrace different styles. I wouldn't say stick with a short look.
Bryan Barron: So, Ashley, speaking of the jaw line, what kind of cut would be flattering for an older woman who's jaw line isn't as taut as it used to be, if she's seeing some signs of sagging there?
Ashley Mecham: Usually that is where you want to make the eye lift. And so hair that's away from the face is going to actually make everything look a little tighter.
00:43:59 It's weird to envision that, but you know, if you have some layering that's right at the jaw line, that's where the eye is going to go. So, if you have hair that's kind of away from the face then it's going to make everything look uplifted.
Bryan Barron: But it could be shoulder-length hair for example, right? It doesn't have to be short hair that's away from the face?
Ashley Mecham: Of course, yes. You can do layering around the face, towards the face, or away from the face at all different lengths.
00:44:28 It's just, it's all how it's cut and styled. But, that usually is the best to kind of make everything look lifted.
Desiree Stordahl: And we have another question, this one comes from Antonella on Facebook. And she wants to know why the texture of her hair has changed. She says it's become dry, loses its style overnight, so now she has to wash it daily. She says she has lots of grays, so lots of color done every three to four weeks and she is 47 years old.
Ashley Mecham: Well, a lot of it has to do with gray. Gray is coarse and it has a very wiry texture and it lacks shine. Also, it could be to do with hormones.
00:45:13 When there's a hormone change our hair takes a toll, so that could be a big deal. It could be to do with diet. Usually what goes in comes out on the hair. It could also just be the environment that you're in can definitely cause havoc with making it dry. And definitely washing it every day is what's really probably changing the texture.
00:45:41 Your hair, especially when you're older, needs as many natural oils as it can get. It's its best conditioner. And when you're stripping it every day then it's just going to bet drier and drier and drier. And sometimes artificial oils put on the cuticle just make it look heavy and greasy where you get in this routine where you feel like you have to wash it.
00:46:07 So, the best thing I would suggest is trying to go more like every three days to shampooing, and then using a dry shampoo in between.
Bryan Barron: Yeah. Or just rinsing. Another thing that is worth trying, especially if the scalp is dry, too, is to take a good conditioner and massage that into your scalp and then comb it through the hair and leave it on all night long.
Ashley Mecham: Yeah. That will moisturize your scalp really well.
Bryan Barron: Exactly. And you could also, if you don't think your conditioner is moisturizing enough, pick up a bottle of a non-fragrant plant oil like a Jojoba, or Evening Primrose, or even Argan oil which is hot right now and you can find it in a lot of different lines.
00:46:54 They'll just sell a pure Argan oil, also known as Moroccan oil. There's nothing miraculous about Argan oil. It's a good non-fragrant plant oil and it can be great for dry hair. So, if you wanted to add a few drops of that to your conditioner, massage the whole mixture in. And, again, just saturate your hair with it and sleep in it and then rinse it out in the morning instead of shampooing like Ashley was saying – shampoo less.
Ashley Mecham: Another fun thing you can do if you're having like a girl's night or something, you can make a hair mask where you can do olive oil and avocadoes. And you can blend it in a blender.
00:47:29 And you can directly apply it right to the hair and let it sit as well. It's a little messy, but it's kind of fun. And a lot of the oils and fats from that really help, too, with the conditioning.
Bryan Barron: I imagine you wouldn't want to leave it on too long.
Ashley Mecham: No, no. It can get real heavy.
Desiree Stordahl: I've been seeing a lot of those hair masks on Pinterest lately. Which, speaking of Pinterest, there's the sock bun, and the hair bow-tie, and all these different YouTube and Pinterest inspired hairdos, new twists on braids.
00:48:00 Are these really as easy as they look to do, or do you have any of your own special tricks?
Ashley Mecham: Oh, Pinterest. I love it and I hate it at the same time.
Desiree Stordahl: A love/hate relationship.
Ashley Mecham: I love it for the fact that it is opening people's minds to more creative looks that we can do with our hair. What I don't like about it is how they have a lot of "do it yourself" tutorials and us as hair stylists, we have to go to a lot of advanced training and education to learn these art forms.
00:48:38 And it's hard techniques that you have to sometimes take days and weeks to learn how to do. It's not something you can just really learn in an hour on your computer and make it look right. So, and with these up-dos, you know, there's a stylist that created those up-dos and took a picture.
00:49:03 But with you doing it yourself you don't have that 360 degree view. You can't see in the back of your head. So, you have to feel it.
Desiree Stordahl: Which is a lot more difficult to do, yeah.
Ashley Mecham: Exactly. It doesn't mean that it can't be done. I mean, if you're really ambitious and you have patience then I say practice, practice, practice. And, you know what, you'll get there someday, or you'll come up with your own look.
00:49:31 But, when it comes to these really elaborate braids and up-dos and/or these ombres that are, you know, they say you can do with Kool-Aid. Sometimes it's just better to leave those up to the professionals, especially if it's for a big event.
Desiree Stordahl: Well, and I've noticed, too, like a lot of these would require you to have hair that pretty much has no breakage, is super long. To be able to do something like the hair bow-tie, I mean, you would have to have long, really, really healthy hair.
00:50:05 Otherwise when you're trying to manipulate that hair it's just going to be sprouting out every which way or you'd have to be really locking it in with a ton of hairspray.
Ashley Mecham: And a lot of times these pictures are done by stylists looking to get their work published. And so it's not necessarily – I mean, it's not usually all of the model's hair. There's always hair pieces added.
00:50:29 So, there's a lot more than meets the eye. So sometimes if you see these things and it's like, "Oh, I really want to give it a try," you know, you might be disappointed that you don't get that final outcome.
Desiree Stordahl: What about, say there's somebody who has a holiday party coming up since it's about that season where we're all going to our holiday parties. Are there any little simple tricks to kind of give your hair some new pizzazz but you're not that skilled at styling it yourself?
Ashley Mecham: Definitely.
00:51:00 Right now what's really popular is a really high bun. We've seen Kim Kardashian wear it. A lot of people are really embracing it. And it's super easy to do. And basically if you can put your hair in a high pony tail and secure it. And from there you just divide the pony tail into four equal sections, and you slip it outwards, and you pin it with a bobby pin.
00:51:30 And, I mean, you can be really creative with it. If you can use a bobby pin you can do it. But, the more up high looks are the same. I mean, you can even do a higher pony tail and braid the end of it and wrap it around and pin it with a bobby pin and get the same look. The French twist is always a real classic style that women still wear, and sometimes by just putting a pretty hair accessory in it kind of really makes it pop.
Bryan Barron: I love French twists.
00:52:10 I think whenever I see a woman sporting one and it's done well I just think it's one of the most elegant hair styles and it instantly, it just instantly dresses up whatever she's wearing even more.
Ashley Mecham: It's classic. It's going to be in style forever. I don't see it ever going away.
Bryan Barron: Ashley is there a current trend towards all of these up-dos and the buns, are they supposed to look somewhat deconstructed or is it important that they look very precise and exact?
Ashley Mecham: I think it's going for more what you're trying to portray. If you're wearing a really fun outfit that kind of has a little sass to it, then I would destruct it.
00:53:01 The thing is it's more to be free and focus on the feeling of it. If you feel like ,you know, it doesn't have to be perfect. It doesn't have to be asymmetrical. If you're wanting that look, if you're wanting a very polished, precise look, then you need to be more aware of having symmetry in your hair. But if you're just kind of having fun and you're wearing a lot of sequins and you want it kind of flashy then go to town.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay. I think we have just a few minutes left. One more caller we can take. It's Amy from Michigan. Amy, do you have a question?
Amy: Yes.
00:53:43 I'm 44 years old and I recently decided to stop coloring my hair. So, I'm wondering how I can best maintain my hair gray and also stay youthful looking or as youthful as possible, I guess.
Ashley Mecham: Are you currently growing old dye out?
Amy: Yes, I am.
Ashley Mecham: Do you have a lot of grow out, or are you just starting this process?
Amy: I'd say I probably have about five inches of grow out and my colorist is putting really blonde highlight in and putting in less and less gradually.
Ashley Mecham: Okay. That's the perfect way to get you more towards going with the natural look.
00:54:29 And, you know, the best thing you can do to really keep it youthful is shine. That's the one thing people really struggle with when they're going from colored hair to natural hair is because colored hair coats the cuticle and they really lack the shine. So, by utilizing shining kind of conditioners or products. If you really are wanting to get away from the hair dye you're probably wanting to stick to more wash-in shampoo/shampoo-out products compared to actual salon services, correct?
Amy: Correct.
Ashley Mecham: Yeah.
00:55:11 Don't shampoo every day. Do you have long hair or short hair?
Amy: It's past my shoulders.
Ashley Mecham: So, you want to be really good at maintaining normal scheduled haircuts just so your ends are nice and healthy and they don't look split. Because going through this process of transition you are putting chemicals in your hair and it can alter or damage some of your hair. So, by making sure that it's trimmed and nice and well-conditioned will definitely help you through the process.
Amy: Okay, great.
00:55:48 Thank you.
Ashley Mecham: You're welcome.
Desiree Stordahl: Thank you for calling, Amy.
Bryan Barron: Yes, let's make sure that Amy gets some Paula's Choice All-Over Hair and Body Shampoo and the Smooth Finish Conditioner.
Desiree Stordahl: Got it.
Bryan Barron: And, let's see, Ashley I had one more question for you.
00:56:10 And it escaped me. Oh, yes, here it is. Okay, I've got it. I'm having just one of those brain fogs today. But I don't think we asked you this last time you were on the show, but in 30 seconds or less can you tell me your top three products, be it a hair styling product, a shampoo, a blow dryer. What would you just not be caught dead without?
Ashley Mecham: Oh goodness.
00:56:36 So, what I wouldn't be caught dead without would probably be my – I wear a full head of extensions, so extension tape is really important for me. A good round brush. I am a big believer on blow outs and so a nice round brush that will give you the volume that you're looking for. And a great shine-spray. I'm not a big fan of the drops. I like an aerosol shine spray.
Bryan Barron: Is there a particular brand you like?
Ashley Mecham: I like [Aclage].
Bryan Barron: Ah, okay, that's the line you're retailing at Style Lounge now, right?
Ashley Mecham: It is, yes.
Bryan Barron: Okay. I'm not familiar with that at all so I'll look forward to checking that out when I come in to see you.
Ashley Mecham: Yeah, definitely.
Bryan Barron: Okay.
00:57:24 Well, Ashley, we're going to wrap up. So, we'll let you get on with your evening. And usual thank you so much for taking the time to share your expertise with our listeners. Your tips and information is always helpful. Again, for our listeners, Ashley can be contact via Style Lounge on Facebook. Her brand new salon is now open in Maple Valley, Washington. And she is – take it from me – I have been having her color my hair and cutting occasionally for the last several years and she's amazing.
Ashley Mecham: Thank you so much.
Desiree Stordahl: Thanks Ashley.
Bryan Barron: She's super talented.
00:58:01 She's creative. So, thank you so much, Ashley, and have a happy, happy Thanksgiving.
Ashley Mecham: You, too.
Bryan Barron: And be nice to my husband when you see him on Friday.
Ashley Mecham: I will. Can I say one thing really quick?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes.
Ashley Mecham: I just wanted to let anybody know that's interested in coming into my salon that's listening in the Puget Sound area, just mention you heard me on this show and I would be happy to give you a $20 gift certificate you can use for yourself or for a friend.
Desiree Stordahl: Awesome.
00:58:31 You heard it here first, ladies. Get in.
Ashley Mecham: Thank you very much.
Bryan Barron: Thanks Ashley.
Ashley Mecham: Have a good evening. Bye.
Bryan Barron: You too. Bye. All right, everyone. Really quick, upcoming shows: On December 4th we are back with you live with our Holiday Gift Guide. We are going to be telling you our favorite beauty products ever. And we're going to try to get Paula to join us for that show. I'm not going to promise it, but we'll at least get her personal picks on the products that she just thinks are the best ever.
00:59:02 On December 18th, because as a reminder we are doing live shows every two weeks now, we are going to be talking about Skin Care and Makeup to Look for in 2013. We're going to look into our crystal balls and tell you about some of the exciting new product launches, cosmetic technology that we're excited about. That's going to be a very fun show to wrap up 2012. Thank you so much for listening this evening. Come visit us at CosmeticsCop.com. All of our BlogTalkRadio shows are available on CosmeticsCop.com.
00:59:32 You can look up the entire archive. And we will have transcripts available as well. We'll talk to you the next time – that's going to be December 4th. Happy Thanksgiving. Good night.
Desiree Stordahl: Good night.
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