How to Apply Bronzer the Right Way (and Other Must-Know Makeup Tips)

Airdate: 5/16/14

Former makeup artists Bryan and Nathan combine their expertise to talk tan, no sunlight required! They’ll walk you through how to get a natural-looking bronzed complexion, reveal the best ways to conceal red marks from past breakouts, and dish on which products really lead to fuller lips and lush lashes.

Bryan Barron: Hi everyone. It’s Bryan Barron with you today on “Be Beautifully Informed with Paula Begoun and the Paula’s Choice Research Team.” Instead of Paula sitting across the table from me today I am here with the Paula’s Choice Social Media and Community Manager and Senior Paula’s Choice Research Team Member. His title is so long he needs two business cards.
Nathan Rivas: It’s a fold out!
Bryan Barron: It’s a fold out, yes. Nathan Rivas.
Nathan Rivas: A pamphlet. Hello!
Bryan Barron: Hi Nathan. And we are going to be talking about how to apply bronzer, bronzing, different types of bronzing products the right way so that you get the results that you want.
00:00:38 Plus other key makeup application tips that you need to know about such as how to use concealer to hide red marks from acne, how to apply a creamier, glossier lipstick so that it stands the least chance of moving into any lines around the mouth. All that kind of stuff. So, this is one of our makeup tip shows that you won’t want to miss.
00:01:00 We get our information not only from our own personal experience with products from polling women around our office, but also from what we have heard from our Facebook fans, from what we read on beauty blogs, but every tip bit of advice with makeup that we’re going to give you is tried and tested.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely.
Bryan Barron: This isn’t just stuff that we’re making up or that we read about in Allure and we’re just regurgitating it for you here on the radio show.
Nathan Rivas: That’s absolutely true. Everything we’re going to tell you is something we’ve all definitely tried and eliminated, or tried and marked a success.
00:01:33 Or, as Bryan mentioned, gotten a lot of good testimonials from staffers and also from customers.
Bryan Barron: Yes. So, let’s just dive right in with bronzers. And there are really two types of bronzers, at least that I’ve seen on the market, the most common being a bronzing powder. And the most common format of that is pressed. You can find some loose bronzing powders. They’re few and far between and we really don’t recommend them highly because they’re just messy.
00:02:03 It’s harder to control them.
Nathan Rivas: It’s definitely something that you’re, I don’t want to say novice, but someone who isn’t as well coordinated, we’ll say, or as well skilled with makeup or with applying makeup or bronzer, a loose powder is a bit tricky for those. There are some good ones out there, but they are by no means so good that they can’t be replaced by something that’s pressed or a gel bronzer or a cream bronzer.
Bryan Barron: Right.
00:02:35 And a gel bronzer - a gel bronzer - I’ll say that again so we can get it right on the tape, a gel bronzer is probably the second most common type. There are some cream and cream to powder bronzers. I’m seeing more of those. I can’t think of a true cream bronzer off the top of my head. Can you?
Nathan Rivas: Well, Sonia Kashuk has a cream bronzer that’s new that they just released not too long ago which is cream in a compact.
Bryan Barron: We haven’t reviewed it yet?
Nathan Rivas: No.
00:03:07 We haven’t reviewed it yet. And there are some stick bronzers that have kind of stood the test of time.
Bryan Barron: Like Bobbi Brown’s?
Nathan Rivas: Yeah. And I don’t even know if Bobbi Brown’s stick bronzer is still around now that I think about it. But the ones that I’ve seen that have been tried and true and been around forever, NARS has their multiple -
Bryan Barron: Oh, the multiple. Yeah.
Nathan Rivas: Stick bronzers.
Bryan Barron: Copacabana.
Nathan Rivas: Yeah.
00:03:33 And then there is Tarte’s, which is actually a gel, it’s not really a cream. But, yes, there are not a whole lot of cream or stick bronzers out there. They tend to come and go.
Bryan Barron: I am seeing Bobbi Brown…oh, it says this item is currently unavailable on Nordstrom, her bronzing stick. Maybe she discontinued it. That was a good one though.
Nathan Rivas: Yeah it was.
Bryan Barron: If you like the bronzers in the stick form. But regardless of the type, there are key ways that you want to apply it. And one of the first things to keep in mind with bronzer is that you do not want to apply it all over your face.
Nathan Rivas: That’s absolutely true.
Bryan Barron: Bronzer is about highlighting or adding tan color to areas of the face that the sun hits first.
00:04:17 So, think of the high points of your face, the tops of your cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, even along the hair line. Sometimes you’ll see people who get too much sun. They tend to have a bit more pink or redness if they have a lighter complexion along the hair line because depending on the shape of their forehead that actually gets more exposure from the sun than the sides of their forehead or right smack in the middle.
00:04:40 So, think about where you would naturally get more color from a real tan and that is where bronzer should go.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely. And definitely less is more. Starting out with less bronzer and also where you’re applying it is absolutely kind of the way to go. You can always add more.
00:05:00 You can’t take it away.
Bryan Barron: It is much tougher, especially if you have a lighter complexion and you’re using a medium brown to tannish brown bronzer. It can easily look muddy if you put on too much.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely.
Bryan Barron: Now, one of the things that I don’t understand that a lot of lines recommend is using a larger, very fluffy bronzing brush to put bronzer on. I’ve found most of those to be too large for controlled application to the face. I get how they would be useful for say dusting bronzing powder over the chest or another larger area.
00:05:34 Have you played with any of those bigger - I prefer a blush brush. Or even a powder brush for applying bronzer to the face.
Nathan Rivas: A lot of bronzing brushes that I’ve seen are almost kabuki-like in terms of their size. You know, they definitely have a really full head. And so it is tricky to be able to apply bronzer in kind of a more precise, especially if you’re very fair. You really have to be kind of tricky about where the bronzer is going when you’re getting that fully loaded brush.
00:06:05 Where that’s going has to be really much more precise when you have kind of a much fairer skin tone than someone who has more of a medium skin tone. But I actually think some of the better brushes for applying bronzer is some of the brushes that aren’t as tightly packed. Sonia Kashuk has a really good one, I wrote it down here. It’s a stippling brush. It has kind of a large head. And the hairs are very loosely packed.
00:06:32 So it essentially looks kind of like a blush brush that’s lost some of its hair.
Bryan Barron: Lost some of its hair. Okay.
Nathan Rivas: Exactly. And so that applies color kind of in a very sheer application. There’s not a lot of lines, demarcation. It’s almost kind of like a mistake-proof sort of brush.
Bryan Barron: For our listeners, the Sonia Kashuk line of makeup brushes at Target stores - the brand is exclusive to target - is one of the unsung beauty heroes in terms of beauty bargains.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely.
Bryan Barron: Her brushes are consistently beautiful. They’re well made.
00:07:09 They’re fairly priced. I don’t think you’ll pay more than maybe $25.
Nathan Rivas: That’s at the high end. Yeah.
Bryan Barron: That would be like for the full size powder brush, which going back to Bobbi Brown, I think her powder brush at the counter, last time I checked, was around $68.
Nathan Rivas: It’s definitely up there.
Bryan Barron: It’s a good brush, if you have that money to spend, but I would encourage you to check out what Sonia Kashuk has to offer prior to hitting the department stores. Maybe then you can go to a counter like Bobbi Brown and M.A.C. and fill in the blank.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely. Sonia Kashuk brushes, there is such a nice range of brushes there too for a lot of different multi-purpose functions. There are a few different foundation brushes. A few different powder brushes. Some blending brushes. Smudging brushes. It’s really anything that you want to look for you’ll be able to find there.
00:07:58 But to get back to what you were saying, the size of the brush is very important when you’re applying bronzer because you want to make sure you’re able to really control where that color is going on the face. One thing I think as you mentioned, you kind of mentioned about applying bronzer, especially someone who has really fair skin. You mentioned that there are certain areas of the face that you want to make sure you touch on with bronzer.
Bryan Barron: Yes.
Nathan Rivas: I think with someone with really fair skin it’s tricky to be able to get color on the face with a bronzer and not have it immediately look like it is bronzer right away.
00:08:35 Are there any tips, because you are fairly fair, are there any tips - ?
Bryan Barron: And, I’m not wearing it today, but most days I do wear some bronzing powder because I’ve found that if I try to wear blush it can be really tricky because it can just look too blushy on me. Now, opposite gender and the same skin tone as me, you know, it’s more socially acceptable for a woman to be seen with color on her face.
00:09:02 So, I have found that bronzer works really well and I use - M.A.C. makes just a product called Bronzing Powder and they have a shade called Matte Bronze. It’s one of the only matte ones I can find. I don’t know if you remember, and of course her name is escaping me right now, but we had a woman in customer service who ended up moving back to Germany with her husband.
Nathan Rivas: Oh, I think that was before my time.
Bryan Barron: Was it? Oh my gosh.
00:09:30 Just gorgeous, gorgeous woman who was very adept at makeup and had worked for M.A.C. prior to working for Paula’s Choice. And she told me about this bronzer because I said, you know, I really want to try a bronzing powder, but even some of the ones we reviewed don’t look very good on me, even the matte ones. And so that’s been my go to. And I just apply it really sheer. I use a larger powder brush and I just brush it right through the high points of the face. A little bit on the apples of the cheeks for some color there.
00:10:01 A little bit on the temple area and then up above. Because my joke is that I have a forehead big enough to write the Magna Carta on. So, I have to have a little bit of shading up there. No, it’s not that bad! But, yeah, I love it. And I think with a product like that when you have fair skin there is that initial intimidation factor, but the more you experiment with it, always be sure to blend out the edges.
00:10:31 You should never be able to clearly see where the bronzer stops. And the trick with that is take a regular foundation sponge that you reserve just for the purpose of blending brush or bronzer and you start where the bronzer stops and then move the sponge in toward the color. So, you’re not going at the edge of the bronzer and taking it further down toward your jaw line. You’re actually blurring the line up into the actual color, that way the bronzer or the blush, depending on what you’re using, stays where you want it to.
Nathan Rivas: I think that bronzer - on that note of really kind of blending it in and making it look like it’s really part of skin -
00:11:11 I actually think that the bronzer looks really good if once you’ve applied the color with your bronzing brush, if you go over the whole face or that whole area using a blending brush or a powder brush with some pressed powder in your normal skin tone, going over the whole area there kind of in a nice kind of buffing motion with that regular skin tone, I’ll say, skin tone pressed powder.
00:11:38 You can really blend in all of the edges. And also especially if you’re kind of a little bit intimidated, as you mentioned, by bronzer, that can absolutely help give it a much more natural - because it will take away some of the color. And it will also blend in some of the edges to it, too. So it does give it a much more of a subtle look to it.
00:11:58 So, if you’re a little bit intimidated by bronzer, or if you want to go with that extra step, that’s a tip for you.
Bryan Barron: And if you are intimidated by bronzer and have light skin or even medium skin tone, I would encourage you to go for a lighter shade. They’re usually available in light, medium, and deep, and then see what you think. And then let’s move on to the cream bronzers, or cream to powder bronzers. Other than the fact that you probably won’t need a brush, you could use a foundation type brush and kind of paint the color on.
00:12:31 Personally I think it’s faster to just do the dot-dot-dot blend method where you literally from the compact or from the stick - if you’re using a stick you would just dab a few dots of the bronzing color in the area you want to, so say along the cheekbone, and then you can use a clean fingertip or a sponge, or again, a foundation type brush to blend that color through the area. And pretty much the same concept with cream to powder, except typically a cream to powder will have a bit more - may have a bit more movement and may set a bit faster than a cream, a really creamy bronzer, depending on the formula.
Nathan Rivas: Yeah depending on the formula.
00:13:06 You don’t really get a lot of time with some of those. I personally think it kind of looks better when using kind of a really densely packed brush to blend it in, especially if you’re kind of more of a beginner. It’s kind of a bit of an eye opener to talk to a lot of our Facebook fans about how they apply products like this.
00:13:30 And I find that a lot of people who are somewhat novices at makeup, they don’t really understand how to or really get that technique down in terms of blending cream products with their fingers. Some of them that I’ve seen describe the way they do it and it’s almost like they put it on their cheek and then they just kind of blend with all four fingertips.
Bryan Barron: No! No, no, no. That’s not the way to do it. It’s not finger painting.
Nathan Rivas: Exactly.
Bryan Barron: You’re not back in kindergarten and just, you know, doing what inspires you.
00:14:00 I mean, assuming your goal is to create a nicely shaded sun-kissed look, yeah, if you are using your fingers, I don’t mean that in a casual way. You want to take the time to learn how to do that properly.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely.
Bryan Barron: And it can take practice.
Nathan Rivas: Yes. Yes. Absolutely.
Bryan Barron: It’s not hours in front of YouTube. I mean, that can certainly be a good resource, but at some point you are just going to need to roll up your sleeves and try it.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely. If you find that you just don’t get quite the results you’re looking for from your fingers alone you can absolutely try blending it in with a sponge, for example, or kind of a multi-purpose blending brush. A lot of brands have those now. Essentially all they are is just kind of short hair blush brush and they’re really densely packed brushes.
00:14:45 Sonia Kashuk has one called the Synthetic Buffing Brush. And it’s essentially just a really short hair blush brush. And it has about twice the amount of hairs you would see in a regular brush blush. It’s just very densely packed.
Bryan Barron: Go ahead.
Nathan Rivas: Oh, no, I was just going to say with our upcoming bronzer that we have, that we’ll have out this spring, I actually started using that along with our upcoming foam self-tanner and testing them both out. And actually some of the tips that I had today were results of that experimentation, you know, of what kind of worked best, with both back and forth.
Bryan Barron: Cool. I like that bronzer too. It read a little bit more pink on me.
Nathan Rivas: Yeah.
Bryan Barron: Than the one I usually use.
00:15:29 But I am going to experiment with it more because I like - this is a larger powder bronzer that we’re coming out, or by the time you’re listening to this it may already be out. And it’s got two sides. Two colors. Tone on tone.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely.
Bryan Barron: And Nathan has been experimenting with the new Sunless Tanning Foam in the Paula’s Choice line that at the time of this recording is not out, but it should be out March? March I think.
Nathan Rivas: March, yeah.
Bryan Barron: March 2014. And that color looks great on you.
Nathan Rivas: It’s a really fool-proof product. I was surprised.
Bryan Barron: I mean, when you came to the office that day, I mean, I could tell that you were darker and I figured it was a self-tanner of some sort.
00:16:05 But I’m a little embarrassed to say that it didn’t immediately jump out that it might have been ours. I was like, oh, he’s probably trying one from Tarte or one from Michael Todd or whatever.
Nathan Rivas: Yeah, you know, one problem I had with self-tanners is that, number one, usually they had some type of scent to them, whether it’s a scent that developed from the dihydroxyacetone.
Bryan Barron: That’s the ingredient that turns skin color.
Nathan Rivas: That’s correct.
00:16:31 Yes, sorry, I guess I should have mentioned that.
Bryan Barron: It’s a mouthful.
Nathan Rivas: Or also some of the ingredients. Someone who, myself, I have oily skin and so a lot of the self-tanners on the market, you know, they had too many emollients in them, or they had a strange color cast when they first went on. But this one is a nice, lightweight foam. It’s like a very, very watery almost weightless foam. It goes on and it dries so quickly that you really don’t have to wait that 20 or 30 minutes that you would with other products before you could even put your shirt on.
00:17:04 And, yeah, it was fairly fool-proof. I just applied it as the last step of my routine at nighttime and really I wasn’t even that cautious about blending it in, just because I really kind of wanted to test it out and it worked really well.
Bryan Barron: When you’re dealing with bronzing products, whether it’s a cream, a powder, a gel, or whatever over a self-tanner, the rule of thumb is simply apply more. The self-tanner is making your skin tone darker, you need to add a bit more color. And so I don’t know if you normally would use bronzing powder without self-tanner, and if you found that to be true?
Nathan Rivas: Well, you know, it’s really kind of more about the look that you’re going for. Depending on how much self-tanner you used, a little bit of bronzer can just give a nice dimension to it and just give you kind of even more of that natural tan look. It can help blend in the color of the self-tanner a little bit better.
00:18:00 So, I mean, yeah, if you want to go through the extra step then, yeah, absolutely, you really can’t go wrong with combining the two. It can also help make the bronzer itself look more natural, too.
Bryan Barron: Yes.
Nathan Rivas: You have a little bit more base color as they say.
Bryan Barron: Yes.
Nathan Rivas: And so that helps skin -
Bryan Barron: And when you get a real tan from the sun you are rarely all one color from head to toe.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely. That’s a great point.
Bryan Barron: Again, because of our physiology, the way the sun hits us, how you may have been sitting in the sun, you’re not going to be the perfect shade of tan from head to toe.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely.
Bryan Barron: So, I think that covers bronzers.
Nathan Rivas: Yeah, you know what? Actually one thing I wanted to mention.
Bryan Barron: Do we want to add something?
Nathan Rivas: Yes, just one real quick thing.
00:18:39 When you’re using -
Bryan Barron: We do love bronzers.
Nathan Rivas: I know! It’s a bronzersance instead of renaissance. You know, ha, ha.
Bryan Barron: Oh! Bronzersance!
Nathan Rivas: But when using blush with bronzer, a little bit of blush with bronzer is a really good way to also give a little bit more definition to it. A little bit more of kind of a sunburned look, you know, to it. Not necessarily sunburned, but something a bit more natural.
Bryan Barron: Yes.
00:19:05 that reminds me I was going to touch really quickly on whether or not you can use bronzer if you have a dark skin tone.
Nathan Rivas: That’s a great point.
Bryan Barron: And you can. You will probably not be able to use a conventional product labeled bronzer because they just don’t get dark enough, but what you can do is buy a darker shade of pressed powder, like let’s just say you want a pressed powder format.
00:19:30 Go for a darker shade of pressed powder and then over that as Nathan was just saying apply a pop of color from blush. Now, what color blush should you use if you have a dark skin tone? If you have a darker - if you’re African American and have a dark skin tone, like maybe Oprah Winfrey, or even a little bit darker than that, I would say go for a soft fuchsia or even a reddish color. You want something that’s going to show up. Don’t pick plum if it’s really, really purple. It can just look too contrasting when you’re trying to create a more tanned or sculpted look, which really if your skin tone is darker it’s not necessarily about looking tan.
00:20:08 It’s really about adding more definition to your face.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely. And I think that the color of blush is a really good point. I think that kind of everyone looks generally like a pink, kind of like a neutral pink or a red, really, really, really red blush looks good with almost any skin tone, just depending - it’s all about how it’s applied.
00:20:31 In terms of adding a little bit of blush, how you would work that in - my tips - would be applying a little bit of blush before you apply the bronzer and especially just to not necessarily like in the same areas that you would if you were just applying blush like on a normal day in terms of the - I guess they say the apples to the cheeks. But kind of more like at the -
Bryan Barron: Not just to the apples of the cheeks.
Nathan Rivas: Not just to the apples of the cheeks, but applying it just under the socket bone and like maybe across the bridge of the nose, high up on the cheekbone, and then blending over it with the bronzer can really help kind of blend that in and also gives a bit more of that sunburn look to it. It just looks a bit more natural.
Bryan Barron: Yeah. Because if you just did the darker color it’s going to look - you’re going to have a complexion that looks more muddy.
Nathan Rivas: Yes. Exactly.
Bryan Barron: And even if you’re using a darker color powder that has some shine to it, it’s still going to look a bit strange without something - you just need more color.
Nathan Rivas: I agree.
Bryan Barron: More color to the face. And the darker your skin tone is, the harder it is to get color to really show up, especially if you’re using powder. So another potential trick you could do is use a powder to sculpt and contour, kind of create that bronze like definition, but then use a cream or cream to powder blush very carefully applied on top of that for that color.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely. Yes.
Bryan Barron: You want something that’s got some intensity, though.
00:21:54 All right. Let’s move on to how to conceal red marks from acne.
Nathan Rivas: This is a great topic. And we get asked about this. Not a great topic. It’s actually a very frustrating topic for a lot of people.
Bryan Barron: Yes.
Nathan Rivas: But we do get asked about this quite often in terms of the best types of concealer and then also the application method. I think that a lot of people get tripped up when it comes to picking the right product but then they leave out the application method of it.
Bryan Barron: I would say experiment with different textures of products.
00:22:27 I think for what we’re about to tell you that my preference is a liquid or a lightweight cream texture would work best, but you also have to keep in mind that you’re covering a mark where a breakout used to be. Clearly this is a breakout-prone area of your face. You do not want to use something that has a thick texture, an oily texture, or a waxy texture because that could - it’s not true for everyone - but it could contribute to clogged pores and nobody wants to cover up one blemish and then end up with another in its place.
Nathan Rivas: Yes.
Bryan Barron: You’re constantly chasing them around your face with concealers.
00:23:04 So, liquid formulas tend to be your safest bet and it may mean that you need to layer them, because they tend to not provide quite as much coverage right out of the gate.
Nathan Rivas: Yeah. Depending on the formula, you know, it is tempting to choose a stick concealer or a pot concealer because they do apply a lot of pigment very quickly.
Bryan Barron: Yes.
Nathan Rivas: And all of a sudden you can just see, oh, my red mark is completely gone. But, yes, as you mentioned a lot of those ingredients in those formulas can be pretty problematic.
00:23:33 But when it comes to liquid concealers, there are some good ones that do offer a lot of coverage and build very easily. A great one is Makeup Forever Full Cover builds layers especially and offers an almost totally opaque coverage. I’ve used that to cover up tattoo and then also when I have - because I take this self-defense class called Krav Maga.
00:24:01 And you kind of get beat up a lot at times, so at times you’ll get a little bit of a shiner, a little bit of a red mark, and it absolutely works flawlessly to cover that up. So, if I can cover up like a small bruise or a red mark on my face -
Bryan Barron: Nathan, I didn’t know you were getting hurt.
Nathan Rivas: It’s one of those things you don’t really even notice and it’s not like - it’s kind of one of those things usually you get it from the fall, hitting the mat. You won’t necessarily fall at the right angle or you’ll fall and you’ll smack the side of your face on it, so the next day you’ll have like this nice red mark, or this nice little kind of light purplish mark on your face.
00:24:37 It’s not a very professional thing to show up to work to have, like this little bit of a shiner somewhere on your face. So, this is the concealer that I’ve used before to cover that up. And it works like a charm, the Makeup Forever Full Cover. And what I use with that is the Sephora Pro Air Brush Concealer Brush, Number 57, and it’s basically like a really kind of small head, almost like a kabuki brush shaped head, but it’s a really tiny - it’s like a kabuki brush for Smurfs.
00:25:06 It’s a very, very tiny, tiny brush that has a full head to it. I never really liked the flat head concealer brushes and those might work for some people.
Bryan Barron: I like working with those. I find them to be the most versatile. But I get with what you’re trying to do and the level of coverage, that type of brush you’re describing I’ll bet provides pretty darn good coverage right out of the gate.
00:25:28 One of the things that a flat or what some people would refer to a cat tongue concealer brush can do is that it tends to dilute the concealer a bit.
Nathan Rivas: Yes.
Bryan Barron: So, you think you’re applying a full coverage concealer and using this brush, and it kind of spreads it out to the point where you just need to keep applying more. So, that can be one of the drawbacks to that type of brush whereas what you’re talking about would really allow the concealer to stay concentrated.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely. It allows for a lot of precision and the buffing motion of it, almost like a stippling motion, it has kind of a nice round, very tightly packed head to it. So, you can add a lot of coverage very quickly and it sheers out beautifully. So, it looks very natural. And you could almost really even use a really tightly packed blending eye shadow brush, too, for the same type of motion would work.
00:26:20 If you have any type of really dense red marks that you really want to cover up and you don’t want to spend all day with it, or you’re just not as skilled in terms of applying concealer, that’s what I would recommend sticking with is some type of stippling like brush. I would recommend the M.A.C., or not M.A.C., Makeup Forever Full Cover is probably one of the better options. Some of the other ones I’ve tried for the same issue that didn’t quite have the best results in terms of layering was the Makeup Forever HD Concealer. That is essentially basically like a sheerer version of the Full Cover Concealer.
00:26:57 So, if you have very subtle red marks, that would be one you could consider, but by far I would recommend the Makeup Forever Full Cover. One quick note though, don’t use that for under your eyes. It’s a very, very dry finish, quick matte concealer. So, it’s great for the face, but if you tried it under the eyes imagine, yeah.
Bryan Barron: So, your best bet for concealing acne marks without making breakouts worse or leading to more clogged pores would be a liquid or a lightweight cream concealer with a matte finish, like Nathan was just saying.
00:27:28 But, those can be more difficult to use under the eyes, especially if you have fine lines or wrinkles. So, you may actually need two concealers. Here’s the other reason you may need two concealers. When you are covering up a pink-to-red mark or a brown mark from a past breakout you want the concealer to match the surrounding skin as closely as possible.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely. Good point.
Bryan Barron: Whereas when you’re putting concealer under the eye it looks better because everyone has some natural shadowing under the eye based on how the eye is set into the skull. I’m not even talking about dark circles yet.
00:28:02 We all just have that natural shadow, so you want your concealer shade for under the eye to be about a shade or two lighter than your skin to make up for that, to bring forward and brighten that shadowed area and to just make you look more well-rested.
Nathan Rivas: Yes.
Bryan Barron: But if you put that same light color over a pink-to-red or brown mark from a breakout, it’s going to draw attention to it.
Nathan Rivas: It does. It does.
Bryan Barron: So, I can hear you groaning. It’s not, oh, I need two concealers. Ooh, an extra step! I’m sorry, yes.
00:28:33 If you’re dealing with both concerns, if you want to put a concealer - now, can you use a concealer under your eyes that matches your skin tone and then use that same concealer for a red mark? Sure. You’re not going to get quite the same brightening effect under the eye and I wouldn’t advise that if you have noticeable dark circles, because again, the going one step lighter for under the eyes helps to brighten, and when you really have that under eye darkness every little bit helps.
Nathan Rivas: That’s true. And one thing that you mentioned as far as color goes and having multiple shades, it is exceptionally important to find that right match when you’re trying to cover up these types of discolorations.
00:29:10 But one thing I did find is that more than likely there is a strong possibility that if you’re trying to cover up something as dense as a bruise or multiple red marks, especially if you’re someone who has red marks kind of all over the face or in large areas of the face, you might have to buy two different concealers in the same formula and mix the shades together to find that right custom match.
00:29:35 Because if you’re someone especially who’s dealing with acne who has red marks on your forehead and red marks on your cheeks and on your chin, you’re not going to be the same color tone in a lot of these places. You might have a subtly different color on your chin or forehead than you do your cheeks. So, you’re probably going to have to tailor that a little bit and, yes, it is kind of, “Oh, now I have to buy two concealers just for my face.”
00:29:57 Yeah, it’s one of those things that if you want it to look right and you want it to do a good job, you kind of have to bite the bullet a little bit. The good news is that once you have those colors you’ll be set for quite a long time because these products tend to last you for the face quite a while.
Bryan Barron: They do. Another product that I have found works well to cover up those red marks is - and it’s not sold for this purpose - it’s the Maybelline Instant Age Rewind Dark Spot Eraser Treatment Concealer.
Nathan Rivas: Oh yeah.
Bryan Barron: It has a really nice consistency and it provides fairly good coverage and it layers well, so if you find that first, because the trick to covering up a discoloration on skin is not to just put a big glop of it on there and then try to blend that out.
00:30:41 It’s sort of like trying to frost a cake by putting all the frosting right in the center.
Nathan Rivas: Ha!
Bryan Barron: And then kind of hoping that with the texture of the cake it’s all going to spread out evenly. If you frost that cake in thin layers and then kind of build up and then everything gets easier to move around. So, the same concept applies. Layer the concealer over the spot, see how much coverage a couple layers gets you.
00:31:01 If you can still see the discoloration and be sure to feather out those edges with either a clean finger, a brush, or a sponge, keep layering it until you get to the desired level of coverage. Now, if you’re layering, and layering, and layering, then clearly you’re dealing with a concealer that just isn’t providing the coverage that you need. And I’m not suggesting that you stick with that. You’re going to want to try something else.
Nathan Rivas: Absolutely.
Bryan Barron: However, if you start right out of the gate with a concealer, like one that we review and we comment that it provides medium to full coverage, the Makeup Forever one.
00:31:32 Nathan mentioned the Full Cover Concealer. I think we actually wrote in the review, “Take that name seriously.”
Nathan Rivas: Yes.
Bryan Barron: Because it really does provide full coverage. Another good one is Amazing Cosmetics’ Concealer.
Nathan Rivas: Oh yeah, that is a good one.
Bryan Barron: It’s a bit trickier to deal with then the Makeup Forever one, but it is opaque!
Nathan Rivas: Yeah. That’s a good one. It is much more fluid and it doesn’t dry quite as quickly which might be a good thing.
Bryan Barron: Gives you more play time.
Nathan Rivas: Yeah. Exactly.
00:32:00 With the Makeup Forever you have to - you move quick, because it will dry very, very fast. But the Amazing Cosmetics is an excellent one. It is a bit more of a fluid concealer so it does give you more playtime. But as Bryan mentioned, it is absolutely opaque, but you really do have to use - make sure that you’re using kind of a brush with that product because trying to tap it on with your finger if you’re not someone who’s really skilled with concealer, you are going to end up kind of blending it out around the areas of your face that you really don’t want that concealer/that coverage in.
00:32:34 And you really want to kind of pinpoint it to one spot on your face. A brush is really going to kind of help you out.
Bryan Barron: Let’s go over lipsticks.
Nathan Rivas: Yes.
Bryan Barron: And making sure that when you’re using a creamier, glossier lipstick what are some tricks to keep it from bleeding into lines around the mouth?
Nathan Rivas: Well…
Bryan Barron: Of course if Paula was here the first thing she would say is don’t wear creamy or glossy lipsticks!
00:32:58 But we get that a lot of women, that’s the texture and the look that they prefer. And without question it’s the most comfortable. Definitely more comfortable than lip paints. Definitely more comfortable than most matte finish lipsticks. Paula is a big fan of the Yves St. Laurent Rouge -
Nathan Rivas: Couture Matte?
Bryan Barron: Couture Matte which is a liquid lipstick.
Nathan Rivas: It’s a tube, a regular tube traditional matte. And it only comes in red, two red tones.
Bryan Barron: Oh, that’s right.
00:33:26 She was using the Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay In Place Lipstick, and I am fairly certain that was discontinued as most matte lipsticks don’t tend to stay around for too long on the market. They do stay around on the lips.
Nathan Rivas: Ha!
Bryan Barron: So, for the person that wants to wear the creamier or the shinier lipsticks but they’re having an issue with bleeding into lines, what do you suggest?
Nathan Rivas: I would say that start with a liner, kind of a liner is almost essential, a really good matte finish liner because really important. Or, I’m not saying that you can’t deal without it, but that’s a really good easy way to be able to kind of prevent some amount of bleeding. If you fill in the lips, or if you’re using a colorless lip liner you can actually trace around the outer lips, the outer lip line rather with it to help kind of prevent some of that migration.
00:34:15 Now, there is a fine line between gloss and greasy. And walking that line between choosing a lipstick that has a bit of creaminess to it or a gloss that has a bit of creaminess to it, and one that is just straight up greasy. The greasier you go or the creamy, more emollient you get, the greater the likelihood of it bleeding. And some of them are so emollient and so rich that no matter what you do if you have lines around your mouth they’re going to migrate.
00:34:44 So, you kind of have to experiment with defined , depending on what type of lines you’re dealing with, to find that right formula that kind of works for you. But I’d say liner is a good way to go. There are colorless. We have a colorless lip liner, the Long Lasting -
Bryan Barron: Anti-Feather Lip Liner.
Nathan Rivas: Is a great choice.
00:35:01 There’s not a lot of colorless lip liners out there in the market, but also you can choose one that’s a neutral lip tone to fill in your lips when it’s closer to the tone of your gloss if you like. Another option is to, once you’ve applied your lipstick or lip color, is to go around the outer lip line with a matte finish concealer can help to essentially duplicate a lot of the same effects as a colorless lip liner would in terms of helping to prevent some of that feathering.
00:35:29 So, that’s one option. And I would definitely recommend using a brush to do that because you really don’t need a lot to help prevent some of that feathering. Then, one more point, if you do have lines that you’re dealing with and bleeding and you’re using kind of a more vibrant red color or along those tones, I would recommend a brush probably would be - would make things a lot easier for you in term so being able to apply a good dense amount of color to the center of the lips and then just sort of blend it out so that you’re not dealing with a lot of pigment on the outer lines of the lips which can bleed more.
Bryan Barron: Yes.
00:36:04 And then I would suggest if you wanted to us - for example, a good creamy lipstick that’s relatively new is CoverGirl’s Lip Perfection Lipstick. So, let’s just use that as kind of a benchmark in terms of a creamy texture that’s not too slick or slippery. If you want to make that type of a lipstick look glossier, lip gloss, but you want a lip gloss that doesn’t have a lot of movement.
00:36:28 So, I’m half sorry to say that that pretty much means that you need to stick with a gloss that’s going to feel a bit sticky. Glosses - think of M.A.C. Lip Glass. That type of almost syrupy texture that definitely gives you the shine you want, but it also really tends to stay in place. The thinner the gloss - what’s a good example of a thin textured gloss. Like Neutrogena Moisture Sine?
Nathan Rivas: NYX has some glosses that are fairly thin, you know, as well. Just kind of like that syrupy sort of - not syrupy, rather that really fluid, almost like a lip balm in a way.
Bryan Barron: Yeah, or kind of feels like a silicone serum.
Nathan Rivas: Yes. That’s a great example.
Bryan Barron: But unlike a silicone serum that sets and kind of dries down these glosses keep that fluidity.
00:37:12 And they will just make a beeline in the lines around the mouth, but the thicker, syrupy glosses do tend to stay in place better. I would suggest applying it in the center of your lip and then using a brush that Nathan mentioned to lightly blend it out towards the corner of the mouth, but keep most of the glossiness in the center where the lips have the most surface area to hold that color.
00:37:32 And then the other tip, I’m just losing my train of thought here, talking about the lip gloss. Oh, using a wrinkle filler.
Nathan Rivas: Oh, that’s a great tip.
Bryan Barron: Padding it around the lines of your mouth. My mother told me about this. My mother for probably the last 20, 25 years has bemoaned the fact that she has lines around her mouth and lipsticks make a beeline. When we discontinued the Paula’s Choice matte lipstick she was despondent. She bought up, like Paula was saying on an earlier show about getting all of the eye shadows before they were gone, my mother bought all of the chestnut lipstick that we had.
00:38:06 I think she finally finished it.
Nathan Rivas: Ooh!
Bryan Barron: Yeah. And I’m like I don’t want to know how that look, tasted, or smelled. Ew! But, she found one of the wrinkle fillers that we recommend, the Estée Lauder Perfectionist Targeted Deep Wrinkle Filler. There are others. You can go to Beautypedia reviews and click on our list of best wrinkle fillers, but you pat that on with your finger around the entire mouth area, almost like spackling, and you really kind of lay it on thick, but keep patting and let it kind of work its way into those lines.
00:38:38 Give it a couple moments to set. If you have any excess you can lightly dab that off. I would still advise using the Anti-Feather Lip Liner or a lip liner of sorts because it just serves as such a good anchor and then apply your color.
Nathan Rivas: That’s a good tip. One more I just thought of. It might sound a little strange, but if you have a long-wearing cream eye shadow in just a neutral color, you can take a couple of finger dabs of that and just lightly tap it over the surface of your lips, which in effect does a lot of the same function as a lip liner would only it’s just a lot quicker.
Bryan Barron: Yes.
Nathan Rivas: So, that’s one way to do it. You really don’t need a lot because some of the long-wearing cream eye shadows like Amazon’s or Tarte’s Amazon Cream Eye Shadow. L’Oreal has a great one. Bobbi Brown has a great one. Laura Mercier has a great one. But in a good neutral color, you don’t need much of that.
00:39:35 It’ll last - it’ll be quite tenacious, but just a light layer dabbed across the surface of the lips. Essentially it’s just like a very quick lip liner trick, so.
Bryan Barron: Good idea. Let’s answer one question from Facebook because we do need to wrap up this broadcast. And Nathan I’ll direct this to you. This is from our Facebook fan named Drew.
00:40:00 I can’t tell from the picture, because it’s a group shot, so I don’t know if Drew is male or female. Let’s assume it’s male.
Nathan Rivas: Okay.
Bryan Barron: He says, “Love your products. Just wondering once a product like a serum, or toner, or moisturizer is opened how long can it be used before it should be thrown out?”
Nathan Rivas: Well, that’s a great question. I will defer to our brand of products because they can kind of vary with the product line.
Bryan Barron: Which is good because he’s asking about our products.
Nathan Rivas: That’s good. That’s good.
Bryan Barron: Ha!
Nathan Rivas: As far as lasting in terms of freshness and potency, a good rule of thumb is -
00:40:32 And actually this is, if you look on the back of our products you’ll see a little open book symbol and has usually a number behind it. That’s the PAO symbol and that will say eight months or 12 months or 18 months, for example. And that’s representative of how long the product is “fresh” or potent we’ll say from after the first use. And most of our products unopened is three years, for the most part.
00:41:00 And then opened is 12 months. And that’s pretty much true of most of our products. The only ones I can really think of has exceptions would be the C15, 15% Vitamin C Serum. That’s 90 days because Vitamin C is quite unstable, even in a well formulated product. So, 90 days is the amount of time you get to make sure that it’s 100% potent. After that you can get definitely some drop off. The other one that wouldn’t go by that PAO symbol I mentioned, our products that are regulated as over-the-counter drugs by the FDA -
00:41:32 Sunscreens, acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide, hydroquinone products. Those actually have a specific month and year stamped on them because that’s just part of the FDA’s drug track labeling. So, you would go by that number on those types of products. But everything else really the average is 12 months once the first use has occurred and then three years unopened is kind of the average.
Bryan Barron: Excellent.
00:41:59 All right. Well, everyone, thanks for listening. I promise makeup is a topic with an endless amount of questions and we will absolutely be doing more shows that are makeup related. We always invite you to come to our Facebook page and post your questions related to makeup. Some of those, if you have ideas for future shows we would love to hear it. Paula’s Choice is all over social media. We are on Twitter. We are on Google Plus. Instagram.
Nathan Rivas: We’re on YouTube now, too.
Bryan Barron: Oh, YouTube! Our brand new -
00:42:29 Nathan has done some great work on getting all of the - amassing all of the videos we’ve been making, everything from product reviews, to 60-second skincare tips, how to videos, makeup tutorials. We have amassed a wonderful library of videos on the YouTube Channel which is called -
Nathan Rivas: Paula’s Choice Beauty.
Bryan Barron: Paula’s Choice Beauty. Okay. I almost said Cosmetics Cop Beauty. But it’s Paula’s Choice Beauty. Thank you for listening. I am Bryan Barron, for the Paula’s Choice Research Team, here with Senior Research and—
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