How to Fix Your Worst Hair Disasters with Hair Pro James Todd

Airdate: 3/6/2012

We've all been there... brassy color, frizzy perm, a bad haircut. Is there anything you can do? Hair extraordinaire James Todd joins the Paula's Choice Research Team to discuss solutions for your worst hair disasters!

Bryan Barron: Well hello everyone. Thanks for joining us tonight. It is March 6, Tuesday at 6pm, our usual live time for "Be Beautifully Informed with the Paula's Choice Research Team." My name is Bryan Barron. And I am hosting tonight a very cool show we will tell you about in just a second. Also on the line with me is Daynah Burnett. Hello Daynah.
Daynah Burnett: Hello Bryan.
Bryan Barron: And you have got myself and Daynah on the line tonight taking care of things.
00:00:37 And we are going to be introducing our special guest, hair pro James Todd, in just a moment. But, just a few minutes before the show started I was thinking about - I wanted to mention that Desiree Stordahl, our producer and other member of the Paula's Choice Research Team, is on vacation this week in Puerto Rico.
00:00:57 And then we have several other Paula's Choice staffers traveling on business in various parts of the world. Paula is in India. Our Marketing Director, Cynthia, and Product Development Lead, Kate, are in New York City at the Cosmetic Executive Women's show which is very exciting. We submitted several Paula's Choice products for consideration for these awards that are handed out every year by female executives in the cosmetics industry.
00:01:27 We have got a couple of staffers in San Francisco at a conference. And Daynah and I are here in Seattle where we had a little bit of snow fall this morning and I think we can both agree that we would rather be doing the show from Puerto Rico with Desiree, right Daynah?
Daynah Burnett: Hmm, let me think. Yes, yes. I think so, yes.
Bryan Barron: Kind of ready to get out of here. And let me tell you a little bit about our special guest. We are going to be talking about solutions or fixes for your worst hair disasters. We are turning straight to the professional for this.
00:02:03 James Todd is the creative director for the Gene Juarez Salons. Gene Juarez Salons are famous in the Northwest, particularly the Seattle area, as being among the premiere chain of upscale salons. They have a nearly stellar reputation in the area for turning out incredible talent. James has been in the hair care industry for 23 years. He has worked Fashion Weeks in New York and Paris.
00:02:32 He sees, if you can believe this - this is a lot of time on his fee - he sees over 500 clients in the salon a year. James, are you there?
James Todd: Yes, I am here. Good evening.
Bryan Barron: Hey, how are you?
James Todd: I'm great. How are you guys?
Bryan Barron: I'm doing well.
Daynah Burnett: We're good. Good to have you on the show, James.
James Todd: Thanks for having me.
Bryan Barron: Yes. We really appreciate, as always, you taking the time to join us and help educate our listeners. It is always such a thrill for us to turn to one of the pros, someone who is in the thick of things every day, who is in your case dealing with not only your fair share of hair successes, but I'm sure over your 23-year career, you have witnessed your own share of hair care disasters.
00:03:16 Am I correct?
James Todd: There have been a few. I've been a lucky one. But there have been a few moments that you bite your nails and you wish you had a leather strap in the other hand.
Bryan Barron: But also, I mean, you have done quite a bit of training over the years, correct?
James Todd: Yes, I have been really fortunate.
00:03:35 I started working for Mr. Juarez, who is now retired, but I started with Gene when I was 19 years old. And he started taking me to New York when I was just 21. So I really hit the ground running and got to see what the industry was like. And then I have been fortunate enough to really spend most of my time with 50 plus women a week in the salon, taking care of them on a regular basis.
00:04:01 So it has been quite an education, and a great career.
Bryan Barron: Wow. Wow. Well, we did put together some questions for you tonight, and we are going to go ahead and start firing away. Are you ready?
James Todd: Should I sit down for this?
Daynah Burnett: Brace yourself!
Bryan Barron: Yes, brace yourself. Pour yourself a glass of wine.
James Todd: All right!
Bryan Barron: We will make this easy on you. And before I start the questions for James I wanted to invite our listeners; if you do have a hair care question, it doesn't have to be related to a disaster. But if you have been wondering about salon services such as a Brazilian Blowout, the latest products, hot new looks for spring, give us a call and we will see if we can get James to help you out. The number to dial in is 347-426-3783.
00:04:59 So, James, just to get things rolling here - what is the number one thing that clients can do to prevent a hair disaster?
James Todd: You know, I thought a lot about this one, and I really think the most important thing is to have a relationship with the right stylist. And I think if you are searching, you need to get out and you really need to ask people you know, ask people that you love their hair, and ask people that love their hairdresser who they see. Get a list of those people together. And then go interview the hairdresser. Ask for a consultation.
00:05:38 Ask for a bang trim. Ask for some sort of free meet and greet with that hairdresser. I firmly believe if that hairdresser is not willing to do it, for free, you are already in the wrong place.
Bryan Barron: Okay. So I think that is excellent advice, and I wouldn't have even thought about that because I would presume that either, A, I would be charged for it, or B, I would be worried that by essentially asking to interview a hair stylist that they might construe that as an insult. Like, maybe I don't think that they are good enough to cut my hair, and who am I to judge them about their skills?
00:06:18 They are the ones that have learned all of this. But then if you think about it, in many ways it is sort of like going to different doctors to get second or alternative opinions on a diagnosis. And you don't necessarily automatically accept the first thing that you are told.
James Todd: That is the perfect analogy.
00:06:37 I always say meeting a hairdresser and meeting a guest in the salon for the first time, it is like a first date. We have all been on a bad first date. If the date doesn't go well, you are never going to book a second date. So, you should really feel like we are kind of meeting up with each other, we are introducing ourselves to each other, and we are seeing if we are the right fit.
00:06:59 I work in a salon that has 35 people that just cut hair alone. And I'm not perfect for everybody. I work with 34 other hairdressers that are really talented people, and they have their own clientele. And so there is room for all of us. And I think as a customer coming into the salon, I want to make sure I meet the right person. I think one of the quick ways to do it, let's say you are new in an area and you don't know anybody - I always say go get your makeup done in the salon or get your nails done.
00:07:29 Because your makeup artist or your nail artist, they know all the dirt. And they will fill you in, in about 15 minutes of great conversation, with who might be the right person in that salon for you. So, I think meeting up with the right person is the first thing. I think secondly, if people have realistic expectations. I know right away if someone brings in the Victoria's Secret catalog and they don't look like a Victoria's Secret model, we might have some challenges with ideas of how they want their hair to look.
00:07:58 If they come in and they say, "Hey, I know I am a brunette. I have a bunch of pictures of brunettes in my hands, and I know I want to be a great brunette, can you help me look like this?" Then we are already starting off with a realistic expectation. Does that make sense?
Bryan Barron: Oh, absolutely. Absolutely.
James Todd: I think if people find some images that look like them. And I also think that bringing in pictures to the salon and show this new hairdresser when you loved your hair, and when you hated it.
00:08:26 Pictures of your own self over your lifetime.
Bryan Barron: Oh, that is a very good idea.
James Todd: Yeah. Because then we know when you feel your most beautiful. And I think then you can make some really educated decisions on where you want to go next in your life.
Daynah Burnett: James, I have a question to just bounce off of what you said about finding the right stylist. And I wondered, does it work the other way around? Does a stylist know that maybe they are not with the right client?
James Todd: You know, I think it does happen. I have to say that I am so privileged. I say I see the best women in Seattle, and we have a great relationship.
00:09:01 And it is very symbiotic. A lot of these women have been with me over my 20-year career. I think on occasion there is normal attrition, like people move on, maybe you don't click, and back to my date analogy, I always tell young stylists that I am training, "Hmm, you get a good first date, maybe you get a good second date, maybe you get a good third. She can still divorce you at any time. She might even go out and see other people and come back to you."
00:09:36 And if you are open to that, because sometimes you will learn something about that whole process. And sometimes your relationship is stronger for it. And I have always said if she is happier someplace else, if she is getting what she really wants and I wasn't able to deliver on that for her, then we are all good. Because there is somebody else hopefully that I can better serve. And I hope that that attitude is more prevalent in the industry than not. And that is what I am working towards, especially with our young people.
Daynah Burnett: I really like that philosophy.
00:10:05 That's great.
Bryan Barron: And how much of a great feeling would it be to sit down with a stylist for an interview and tell them, you have the back and forth, the exchange, kind of like a first date. And then that stylist says, you know what, I want to introduce you to another stylist here at the salon who specializes in the type of look, or whatever, that you are going after. And maybe even going so far as to admit that type of hair style maybe isn't my area of expertise.
00:10:39 Or maybe I specialize more in male clients; haven't really done a lot of work with women who have hair down their back who want to keep it that way; anything like that.
James Todd: I think that is fantastic. I think that is absolutely what we are talking about. And I know that for me, it is like sometimes when I have a guest come in for a first time consultation, they have an expectation or a desire for their hair, and for their overall total look.
00:11:05 And I might say, you know what, you need to let your hair grow out for three more weeks, or three more months. Or gosh, you know what? Your haircut looks great - whoever has been doing it is wonderful, but maybe you need adjustment on your color. And so I can help them by that first date and kind of doing a diagnosis and saying, "You know, gosh, maybe their haircut is fantastic. Maybe it is a chemical service they need that will make it better." Or maybe they need to let their hair grow.
00:11:30 We give each other a break and we give each other a little room to ask some really good questions. And I think that is the biggest mistake people make is they come in off the street and they expect to be transformed in 45 minutes without really doing the leg work. And I think it is unfair for the stylist who oftentimes maybe isn't even capable of delivering what that guest is asking for.
Bryan Barron: Yeah. So do you see a lot of clients that are coming in, asking for more of a dramatic change, and then with a little prodding you find out that maybe they just broke up with their significant other, or one of their parents just died, or their kid got expelled from school, or they lost their job?
00:12:11 Does something like that usually precipitate a client getting in your chair and saying, "I want to do something totally different!"
James Todd: You know, talk about a hair disaster - this happened to me very early in my career when I had a woman who was about 8.5 months pregnant. The baby was way out in front of her. You could see her coming before she ever got in the door. And she was like, "I have to do something different. I have to be transformed. I can't stand feeling like this any longer."
00:12:41 And I was like, "Okay, let's do it. You're cute! Let's make a change!" And I was young and green. And I cut off all of her hair. We did the cutest short little pixie haircut you have ever seen. She started to cry, and I started to cry!
Daynah Burnett: Oh no!
James Todd: It was one of those moments where - it was the absolute wrong thing to do. Little tiny head, big body, not cute.
Bryan Barron: Oh no!
James Todd: I learned, and she was so patient with me, she forgave me and we worked together for probably ten more years before she moved out of the area. But it was one of those things - oftentimes the hair or beauty change can be a catalyst to great things.
00:13:23 And oftentimes it is time to take a breath and take a look at yourself and go, "Is this really what I am asking for?" And I think because it shows like yours, and people like Paula, and what else is out there in the industry, people are pretty well informed about what is possible today. So I am seeing that less and less. I rarely see somebody say, "Oh, I got divorced and I want to be a blonde." That is happening less and less.
Bryan Barron: What you said, the experience you relayed with the pregnant woman led me to another question that I'm sure has crossed many people's minds.
00:13:59 How do you deal with a bad haircut when you have no choice but to just wait for it to grow out? How do you handle that without getting incredibly frustrated, and to the point where you are just like, "Screw it! I'm going to get a haircut again and we will hope that it turns out better this time." What is your advice there.
James Todd: You know, I have had them. And I have looked in the mirror and not recognized myself and thought, "Who is that person looking back at me?" So I know how uncomfortable it can feel. I think the first thing - is it a bad haircut? Or is it inappropriate on you? Those are two different questions because I have seen technically accurate haircuts that look really ugly on people because it is the wrong haircut on the right person.
00:14:46 Or, the right haircut on the wrong person, or vice versa. So, I think going back to the stylist you already saw and having that clear conversation about being uncomfortable. Sometimes that first visit, you need to make some adjustments.
00:15:01 If you have had a long-term relationship with someone, hopefully you trust them well enough to make an adjustment - take it to the next best place. And the magic of things today, with chemical services and extensions, if it really isn't what you want it to be, we might be able to alter the look with another service that would kind of get you over the hump until you get back to where you want to be. Does that make sense?
Bryan Barron: Yeah.
Daynah Burnett: Do you find a lot of women want that?
00:15:31 That they opt for things like extensions?
James Todd: Hmm. You know, the market for us in extensions is growing, and growing, and growing. From easy quick clip-on hair, just to look different for the day, to longer-term volume and density solutions. Or to even six months, "Wow, I want to transform the head of hair that I have right now into something that I wished I had had my whole life."
00:15:59 So the hair market is a huge market. And I think it is really opening up for women. And, because there are so many advances going into synthetic hair, where in the past human hair was very, very expensive to quickly alter a look, they are doing things with synthetic hair now that really can manifest a huge change in a woman's life without a huge impact on their wallet. So yes.
Bryan Barron: So, James, turning to another type of hair disaster that I know Daynah and I have experienced in our pasts - it is a two-parter. How should a person handle a bad dye job at the salon?
00:16:44 So, you know, you are seeing it in the moment and you are standing there and you know that the client is unhappy. And then, same question, but how should a person handle a bad dye job result when they do it themselves at home?
James Todd: Well I think, you know, an accurate assessment of what happened first of all.
00:17:05 Is it not what you asked for? Or is it an absolute disaster? Because that, again, is a fine line. Sometimes people get something they didn't ask for, but actually does it look great on them? I will never forget, we had an instance when we had hair color come in the salon that was mislabeled. And then one day we had five women that were naturally blondes, and came in to become more blonde leave as redheads.
Bryan Barron: Whoa!
James Todd: The packaging was mislabeled.
00:17:40 And, you know what? We had three women that spent all day in the salon getting back to blonde, and having to come back, and we gave them complimentary services because it was not our error, it was a manufacturer error. And we did everything in our power to get them back to where they wanted to be. They were patient with us. They were kind. There were some tears shed on both our parts and theirs.
00:18:02 But we got them where they wanted. And you know what? Two of the five looked great as redheads. And they were shocked by what happened. But they were also transformed. It was a happy accident. It was a miracle.
Bryan Barron: I was just going to describe it as exactly that.
James Todd: The miracle!
Bryan Barron: You know, I have some working knowledge, James, of how hair dyes work, the different levels, and the mixing and the customization that is possible at the salon level. That is one of the main reasons to get your hair colored at a salon versus buying something at the store where you are stuck with whatever shade the L'Oreal or Clairol chemist decided to call natural light brown.
00:18:42 Whereas in a salon you can tinker with different tones and mix and match. And you have the know-how to do that that the average woman or man standing in the aisle at Rite Aid doesn't. But even then, how often are you confident that what you are mixing up is going to produce the color that the client wants? And how much of it ends up being a guessing game and kind of that, "Yes, I know what I am doing, fingers cross though that it is going to turn out the way I hope it does?"
James Todd: I think fingers crossed is more often than not.
00:19:20 I think so many people have an unrealistic expectation. The manufacturers have gotten better and better about suggesting that you only move within four shades lighter or darker than your natural color with home hair color. And I'm sure you have heard that in advertising; I'm sure you guys have heard that.
Bryan Barron: Yeah.
James Todd: If you stay within those four shades, and most of the boxes have pretty good imagery on them that say here are these four shades that are close to where you are, you can get a fairly realistic result. It is when somebody tries to jump outside of that, those four shades, and they are doing it at home themselves, where they can really jeopardize the integrity of their hair and their overall beauty.
00:20:05 I think it is a big risk and it is not worth it.
Bryan Barron: So, is a dye job disaster more likely to become a disaster for someone who is naturally light and goes dark, or for someone who is naturally dark and tries to go light?
James Todd: Well, the one thing about at-home hair color when you are going into a Rite Aid or another mass marketed store, the power behind those products is generally weak. So, if somebody who is dark, it takes a lot more power and technology to get their hair light.
00:20:42 I'm sure you guys understand that. But somebody at home, that might be new information. It takes a lot more volume - is an industry word - to get their hair lighter. And so you can't really do too much damage. They might end up brassier than they like, they might end up orange, they might end up in a different color than they wanted, but it is easily solved.
00:21:05 When somebody is really, really and they are trying to go really, really dark, that is easy to do. Adding to color to hair that is already light - once you have stained that hair, getting that out and holding onto the hair integrity, meaning if you have got hair passed your shoulders and you want to keep it that way, and all of a sudden you went brunette on one whim on a weekend, and you want to be blonde on Monday morning...that is asking a lot of the integrity of your hair.
00:21:30 And that is possible to do on one's own. You know, to take one's self to that place and then try to get it back, they are going to spend a lot of time and a lot of money in a salon to correct that problem.
Bryan Barron: So how do you typically handle it with a client who after a dye job just is really unhappy with their results? What is the general practice? Do you say, well, shampoo several times with some Prell, live with it for a few days, see what happens? What do you do?
James Todd: You know, most often if we have taken a leap and somebody was uncomfortable -
00:22:09 I even think of one guest I had for years and we talked about making her a redhead and she had been blonde. We talked about it for years and years. And once we did it, she didn't like it. And she wasn't even willing to wait 24 hours. Because my thing was, she looked beautiful, we knew she was going to look beautiful with it, and still she felt uncomfortable.
00:22:30 So even though she had a clear understanding of where we were going, and she had finally taken the leap, even though she had taken a leap, it was still our job to fix it, because our job is to make her happy. So the prescription was - go home, wait 24 hours, see what you think, and then we are going to immediately start fixing it. And you know what? She didn't want to wait. So what did we do? We took her as light as we could by maintaining the integrity of her hair that day. We stayed and we made it right. And I think that is the most important thing a stylist can do to keep that relationship and to hold their own integrity.
00:23:04 Even if she agreed to do it, our job is still to have her leave with a smile on her face.
Bryan Barron: You have got the Paula's Choice Customer Service mentality.
Daynah Burnett: He does. He does.
Bryan Barron: You probably can't fit me into your schedule, but I want to come see you just because of your ethics.
James Todd: Well, and the sad thing was that this particular woman, she left with probably a grin and not a smile.
00:23:32 And because of the way her color works, it took us several continual visits over a period of weeks to get her back where she was. Our goal was also to maintain the integrity of her hair and we did it. We took care of it. And I think that is something that I think is missing. What we see a lot in our industry is this, "Well if she signed a release form, and she agreed to do it, it is on her." And I really don't believe that is true. If someone signs a release form because we don't believe their hair can handle the service, we should most likely refuse to do the service in the first place.
00:24:08 If the integrity of the hair so compromised that we don't believe we should do it, we should refuse the service period.
Bryan Barron: It is sort of like a bartender refusing to give someone who is clearly intoxicated more alcohol.
James Todd: You are absolutely right. And that is perfect. I am going to steal that from you my friend.
Bryan Barron: Cool! Yeah, I don't know why an alcohol analogy suddenly popped into my head, but anyway. Yeah, that is great advice. Daynah is going to ask the next question. And then I think we have got quite few callers with hair questions that I really want to get to since we have James here.
00:24:45 But Daynah has a bit of a personal story to share before we lead into this next question. And then we are going to get to calls.
Daynah Burnett: Well, James, you made a really good point around making it right and making sure that they leave with a smile, and doing everything that you can to make that happen. And I recently had an experience where my hairstylist unfortunately is ill. She has been sick for a few months, and so I have been having to see other stylists at the salon where she works while she is getting better.
00:25:14 And I went in to get my hair cut and I brought in several photos. I was very clear about what I wanted. I really laid it out. And, you know, it just didn't come out the way I asked for. It wasn't what the picture was.
Bryan Barron: Sorry to break in, but I just wanted to let James know that I saw the pictures that Daynah was going for, and it was a completely realistic request to work with her hair texture and the length that it was. So, she wasn't asking for something that wasn't possible.
Daynah Burnett: It's true.
00:25:48 I was really good about keeping things reined in. And I was so disappointed with where she took this cut. And her attitude about it was, "It's just hair, it will grow." And you know what I said to her? I said, "You know, if that really is how you feel about it, then you probably shouldn't be cutting hair." Because I don't think that anyone who goes in to get a haircut wants their stylist to turn around and say, "It's just hair, it'll grow."
00:26:14 And I wonder as a client what I can do if I am unhappy and someone is unwilling to fix a disaster that has happened?
James Todd: You know, we have seen this. And it makes me sad for hairdressers. Because I feel like we have an opportunity here to either say, "Let me introduce you to somebody that can take you there, because I don't know if I can," which may very well be the case.
Daynah Burnett: I do think that that is what happened.
James Todd: She is probably not capable.
Daynah Burnett: Yeah. She gave me a cut that she knew. She didn't give me what I wanted though.
Bryan Barron: Actually, Daynah, you left out the best part of the story.
00:27:01 You have to tell James what you said to her.
Daynah Burnett: Well, I was upset. And she was like, "It's fine, you don't have to pay for it, it's fine." I said, "No, no, I'm going to pay for it. I got the service. But because I am paying for it you are going to have to listen to me. You are going to have to listen to why I am upset so that we can figure this out. Because you are going to learn, I'm going to learn, we are going to walk away knowing something more about this."
00:27:26 I just felt if I am going to pay then at least I should get to complain.
James Todd: Yeah. And I think it is sad...this is one of these situations, and I see it a lot with young people in our industry, and with people that are burnt out in our industry. That they would rather put a pile of hair on the floor than care about what is left on your head. And I think it is real injustice to women in general. You know, I have taken clients to places that made them uncomfortable, that pushed their boundaries, maybe asked them more.
00:28:02 And I am taken them to places where maybe they thought were less attractive than others, and I have done it where I have seen them come in after six weeks since the last haircut, and looked at them six weeks longer and gone, "Gosh, your hair is cuter now. What did I do to you six weeks ago? Let's just make an adjustment and send you away with no charge today."
00:28:23 So if the artist isn't able to critique and evaluate their own work, this is the position when you either get the salon owner or the manager involved, and you really say to them, "I don't think they are a bad person, I just don't think they are capable of taking me where I wanted to go, and I am unhappy. I would like to be referred to somebody new. And you shouldn't have to do this as a guest. You should have a salon manager, or a salon owner, or a creative leader in the building that can do that. I have been brought over many a time to younger stylists and said, "James, can you give me your opinion on this haircut? Can you help me with this service? And if not, what do you think we should do?
00:29:06 And if the salon doesn't have that kind of integrity, even by its higher leadership, I think you might have to make another choice.
Daynah Burnett: Well, that is good advice.
James Todd: I don't know if it is too abstract. And is unfortunate because oftentimes a single operator who you have a great relationship with, and now they have abandoned you through no fault of your own, through their own circumstances which is unfortunate, ad you are left to your own devices.
00:29:35 And you are basically starting over. It is like you got a divorce that you didn't want, and now you are dating all over again.
Daynah Burnett: Yeah. That is how it feels a little bit.
James Todd: Yeah, and it it's painful.
Daynah Burnett: Well, James, we have so many great calls on the line. Are you ready to take some of these questions?
James Todd: Certainly.
Daynah Burnett: All right. We have Sonia from Colorado. She has a question about covering gray. You are on the air, Sonia.
Sonia: I am. Can you hear me?
James Todd: Hi Sonia.
Sonia: Hi, how are you?
James Todd: I'm great, thank you.
Sonia: Good.
00:30:09 So, my question is, I have these gray hairs like everyone has. And I get it dyed, and then they grow out. I have dark, dark, brown hair. And so then I get these highlights thinking, okay, well that will prolong the time I need between the dyes because it seems to work better.
00:30:36 But I don't like how the highlights look. I feel like I look kind of older. Do you have any suggestions for covering these gray hairs for dark hair that last or that look natural?
James Todd: That is painful, because that silver strike coming in is shocking when you see it.
Sonia: Yeah!
James Todd: And it only gets worse over time
Sonia: I know, I know.
James Todd: And you think, all of a sudden we are going to get some highlights and the contrast won't be so great, which I think is what you are attempting to do to kind of alleviate the every three week in the salon thing which is what dark hair starts to need at a certain point when you reach over 60% gray.
00:31:20 You feel like you have got to be there every three weeks to maintain it.
Sonia: I have a friend that went completely blonde, and I can't do that. I don't think I would like that at all.
James Todd: I think there might be options with your haircut, because there are things that can be done in blurring the parts, in changing the direction of someone's hair, even if you parted it on the same side for 30 years, if you find a talented hair cutter that might be able to do some things with camouflage, that is an option. The other thing is that there are all sorts of new quick and innovative things you can do at home, lots of salons. We are carrying a spray pigment that doesn't break down in water that you can just spray on through your parts.
00:32:08 Several companies are making them, that will tide you over that hump.
Bryan Barron: So, James, I'm going to pause right there. Do you know the name of a couple of these products? Because I know that our listeners are going to email us tomorrow and ask.
Daynah Burnett: Definitely.
James Todd: You know, Bumble and Bumble make a beautiful product called Hair Powder that is aerosol based. And you can spray it right on your part. It does have a slightly dry texture, but it is great at camouflaging gray.
00:32:36 There is a company called ColorMark which looks like lip gloss, it comes out in a little lip gloss-like applicator, which you just dab on those gray areas.
Bryan Barron: I think I have seen that at Sephora.
James Todd: Yes.
Bryan Barron: Yeah, Sephora stores?
James Todd: Sephora stores I believe carry ColorMark. And some of the larger cosmetic companies carry a hair mascara. And I am forgetting the names right now, so please forgive me. But I'm sure a Google search of that kind of thing.
Bryan Barron: And Paula's Choice Brow Hair Tint is actually what --
James Todd: There you go.
Bryan Barron: Yeah. We don't sell it as a hair mascara per se.
00:33:13 It is first and foremost for brows, but it does work. And Paula, herself, uses it in our sable shade because she has dark brown hair to touch up her grays between dye jobs. And as Paula has said on the show, she is neurotic about her gray roots. She is touching them up at least, what is it, every six or seven days?
Daynah Burnett: I was going to say, I thought it was nine days. But I know that it is under ten.
Bryan Barron: Oh, it is hilarious. She was in Malaysia or something a few months ago. And she had Desiree FedEx her her root touchup because she couldn't find it there.
00:33:47 And she was just beside herself.
Sonia: And that is my other question. Can you do your own root touchup?
James Todd: I think you can. Deposit-only color. And that is something to think about. We talked about semi-permanents, all of those are just deposit-only color. None of them are going to completely wash away 100%. But retouching - I have several women that come see me that just retouch their parts and around their hair line, right around their face. They do that themselves about every three weeks.
00:34:21 So getting to a quality deposit-only color. The sad thing is for brunettes, I think brunettes should stay great brunettes as long as they possibly can. And I feel that, that you are brunette in your heart, and you don't have that desire to be a blonde and disappear. You have had that wonderful rich brown hair your whole life, and you want to keep that as much as you can, and stretch it as long as you can to stay brunette.
00:34:49 I think you need to find some brunette icons to maybe kind of copy how they have done it. I think Jaclyn Smith, our former Charlie's Angel. She is blonder than she has ever been, but yet she still looks like a brunette. So, you might have to transition out of these weak little highlights and get more aggressive with it. Sophia Loren is another great example. She had raven black hair, and now she is kind of a redhead. So, it gets hard, and it is a little scary to see yourself differently, but I think sometimes the attempt at camouflage highlights just ends up looking blah and dull, and kind of just waters down the brunette.
00:35:26 And you might need to be more aggressive into a new direction as well. I hope that is okay information for you; it doesn't scare you too much.
Sonia: Nope, that's good.
James Todd: Great.
Bryan Barron: Thanks Sonia. And Sonia, we are going to be sending you a free bottle of the Paula's Choice All-Over Hair and Body Shampoo, and our Smooth Finish Conditioner, so you can give those a try.
Sonia: Oh, fun. Thank you.
Bryan Barron: Next caller, Daynah.
Daynah Burnett: Great. We have got Carla from Canada. Carla, you are on the air live with James Todd.
Carla: Hi everyone.
James Todd: Hi Carla.
Carla: Hi, thanks for taking my call. I'm a brunette, and I get my hair colored between four to five weeks. But I find that around the temple area it used to be really resistant, and I find that when I get the color put on within a couple of days you can see the area, especially in the temple area, that I guess it is the gray starting to come through already.
00:36:28 And when I mentioned it to my stylist, she said that it was regrowth.
James Todd: Hmm. This is a common problem. This is very common; you are not alone in this. You might have to explore different brands of hair color. And if they only carry one particular brand... - I know several of my clients that have done deposit-only color that does a beautiful job at covering their gray, and they have wanted to stay out of permanent hair color because they don't want that really strong grow out line.
Bryan Barron: James, could you explain - I'm not quite sure what you mean by a deposit-only.
00:37:08 Do you mean like a hair dye that doesn't lift color?
James Todd: That is exactly right. So instead of doing permanent hair color which chemically tends to lighten and then deposit pigment into your hair, oftentimes what is used on brunettes, especially for gray coverage is something that has very little lifting action. It just is depositing. So then when it fades off you don't end up with any warmth, any brass, any gold, any red in your hair.
00:37:36 And that is what is used kind of industry wide as a standard.
Bryan Barron: And then the gray. James, the gray hairs, they are more resistant to listing because really there is no pigment to lift?
James Todd: This is exactly right. You get to a certain point, which might be happening around your temples is what she is describing, that there is no pigment left. And so she might have to actually have that area formulated darker. They might have to apply that area first.
00:38:08 They might have to prepare that area. Oftentimes what has been done, and it has been done for years, is they use an ammoniated developer and they dab that onto the hairline prior to the hair color service to open up that cuticle, to be ready for more deposits. So it is really going to a skilled hair colorist, and really talking to them about this is my problem.
00:38:36 Oftentimes, we see it all the time. Gosh, the colorist needs to apply that to that area first. And oftentimes hair color in a salon, and I see this happen a lot, where they pop a client under a drier to speed up the processing time, so it opens that cuticle up. Really, manufacturer's instructions on a lot of hair colors and your caller wouldn't know this, but they really just need to sit there and process for 15 minutes to get true deposit.
00:39:05 And they don't need to be sitting under heat, because that actually might exacerbate the fading. So there are all sorts of things that could be in play here, and I am reaching to try and find one of them that might apply to her. But I think having that clear conversation. Regrowth? Yes. You are going to get, if your temples are white, you are going to see it as quickly as two weeks, sometimes even faster. But if you are not getting true deposit, and you look like you left the salon and you already have regrowth, they might need to be more aggressive with some of the ways I described.
Carla: Because she does put it on first, and she leaves it on there for maybe, I don't know, ten minutes before. And then she will put it all through the rest of my hair. But it gets a little bit frustrating.
00:39:52 And then I get disappointed because I am thinking that it is going to work this time, and then not all the times does it do that. Or she will use a caramel type of highlight in that area just to soften it up a bit, and that doesn't always work either.
James Todd: You are hitting... - This is one of those rough realization patches, too. It is either that maybe the hair color that is in that salon isn't working on your gray, and you know, that happens. That is why there are ten million lines of hair color, because there is not something that works for everybody.
Carla: That's too bad.
James Todd: And you are also getting to a point where there is actually zero pigment left in your hair, and artificial hair color attaches to natural color pigment.
00:40:40 If you have none left, we are really just staining it. And we are trying to get the thing that can stain it the best. It is uncomfortable.
Bryan Barron: And, Carla, there is hope on the horizon for grays. Scientists are getting closer to figuring out how and why our hair grays, and then how... - I have a feeling in the next 10, 20 years there will be a topical solution or a pill of some sort that we can take that will reverse gray.
James Todd: I think you are right.
Carla: I'm going to keep going back to her because I do like her, but it is just that I am getting a little bit frustrated and disappointed that this doesn't seem to be lasting as long as I hoped.
James Todd: Yeah.
00:41:26 And I wonder, too, again, I said this to your previous caller, you might have to do something in changing the hair cut and using something like a hair mascara or a ColorMark around the hairline to camouflage it so that you can go have that family photo taken, or appear at a party two weeks after you have had your hair colored and look like it is finished, rather than having to be in the salon every five days, which is what it is sounding like.
Daynah Burnett: I think you make a really good point about the haircut.
00:41:56 I'm actually a natural blonde, and I keep my hair dark. And learning how to have a haircut that would sort of work with the fact that I have light roots has been important in keeping me from looking crazy. So, I think you make a really good point of not having a deep part, not having your hair parted off of your head - it really does help to extend the life of your color.
James Todd: Yes. I think that is a brilliant point.
Bryan Barron: And we will send Carla the same shampoo/conditioner combination for Sonia. Carla, those products, particularly the shampoo, are safe for color-treated hair, so no worries there. And, Daynah, are we ready for the next call for James?
Daynah Burnett: Yeah, we have got a call here.
00:42:36 And this is a question I know we have seen a lot. It is about the blowout. I am sure you have been asked about this a lot, James. Claudia from Florida is on the line, and she has a question about the blowout.
James Todd: Great.
Claudia: Hi. (Dogs barking) Uh-oh!
Bryan Barron: Your dog has a question, too. When's dinner?
Claudia: I know. They were so quite all night long. The minute I started talking, they are like, "Okay, we are all on."
00:43:01 Anyway, so my question is, I was from Maryland, and now I am in Florida, and there is humidity here, and my hair looks like a Brillo Pad compared to what it would look like back home. So I had gotten the Brazilian Blowout maybe about a year ago. I swear, I feel like it totally ruined my hair. However, I'm a person that like blow dries my hair section by section until it is perfect all the time. And I have always done that; I just don't know any better.
00:43:32 But now that I am down here with this humidity, it is getting a little tedious. And they want to do this Global Keratin treatment which is basically - I'm sure - like the Brazilian Blowout but with a different name. And my hair used to be - it's very find, but it used to be thick. And now it is very fine and not looking good. So I'm afraid to do it again.
Bryan Barron: So you have had a texture change, right?
James Todd: Yeah, a real texture change.
Claudia: Yeah. I mean, it used to be like -
00:44:05 Everybody would say, "My god, you have the most gorgeous hair I have ever seen." And now it is still very fine, and I have to really work at it. And I don't know what to do.
James Todd: Well I applaud you for blowing your hair out yourself. I love women that do that section by section and make it beautiful. You are a walking advertisement for your hairdresser, so we appreciate it. You know, the Brazilian Blowouts, there is so much controversy surrounding the product.
00:44:33 We have never used the product. It has never been on our shelves. And even though it has supposedly and apparently gone through a reformulation, that particular brand we have veered away from.
Claudia: This person is not touting that brand. They are touting Global Keratin. I do my research online, and I went on, I think, a Canadian website. They will say it doesn't have the formaldehyde in it - yes, it doesn't. But when it is combined with heat, it does produce some, whatever.
00:45:10 I mean, I'm cleaning my shower out with Clorox, so it is kind of like if I am getting a little bit, one little spec a time, I realize the people that are doing it to me are probably under a lot more risk than me. So I am not like one of those naturalistic people that I can't have any whatever.
Bryan Barron: So, James, what should Claudio do to get her hair back in shape?
James Todd: I think she might try something. Several salons - Gene Juarez Salons included - are doing a Keratin Express Blowout.
00:45:46 It is not the full service. It does not cost very much money. It tends to run under $100. It doesn't last as long, and it doesn't have the power of what she has had done previously. But it is a way to test that Keratin treatment and see if it is going to be remotely effective. So, instead of doing the full Keratin treatment, come in the salon, 35 to 45 minutes to process, and then a lot of flat-ironing to follow, you would come in, have the Keratin Express done. And several salons are offering it. I'm not sure if the one that you are patronizing does.
00:46:24 But it is a way to try the idea and see if it maintains the integrity of your hair. All of these Keratin products are taking basically wool, sheep's wool, they are hydrogenating the product, and getting a quality Keratin, and it needs a lot of heat to adhere it to your hair. What that does is it makes the hair smaller, leaner, and less fuzzy. Because the more coarse and furry, I keep saying, as people's hair gets over time, the more open the cuticle is. And this fills in all of those blank spots almost like you have stripped a floor and then you are putting a finish on it. Does that make sense?
Claudia: Yeah, it does.
00:47:03 How do you know if you are getting the Keratin Express? I mean, everybody has their own little whatever. So, this is called the Global Keratin GK Hair.
James Todd: A lot of them are offering - if you know it is in the hundreds of dollars and it is going to take several hours to do it, two hours to do it, you are probably having a full Keratin treatment. If it takes you less than an hour, and it is under $100, the Keratin Express is usually involved.
00:47:36 And it is less powerful, less intense, and it has a shorter shelf life. So if you did it, and you didn't love the results in the sense that it was too flat, it is gone in a few weeks; you are just going to end up shampooing it off your hair. There is also huge on the market, and I'm sure you guys and Paula have done your research. There is a lot of at-home Keratin treatments that are happening now. And there are several being offering with at-home cares.
00:48:02 You can purchase them in a professional salon and take them home and apply them yourself. And they oftentimes they will put up to 35% Keratin into your hair, and help you achieve the blowout you want without ever having to go through that damaging process of sitting there and having your hair flat-ironed for an hour.
Bryan Barron: And, James, those home - regardless of whether or not it is done at home, well, I shouldn't say that.
00:48:29 The home treatments are equally dependent on the product as well as the technique. It is not as if the product itself is what is making our hair straight, correct?
James Todd: Well, the product... - Basically imagine that the hair was full like a tire on a car. Oftentimes you can put the product on, and it is slightly deflated. It is not completely flat, so you don't have the total flat, but it is running low. You can actually see just by applying the product to the hair and leaving it alone that the hair oftentimes becomes smaller and more malleable.
00:49:08 Again, your sophistication with blow drying also helps your end result, which is what you are saying, and she sounds like a pretty sophisticated person with her blow dry. So, I think she might have great results with trying some of the at-home care. And even going in and having the Express service done, and then following up with home care, as opposed to going through having the full process again.
00:49:29 And do that until she gets her hair back into shape.
Daynah Burnett: You know, James, this call reminds me of one of our coworkers here had a Keratin treatment done. And we were talking about fixes for hair disasters, and she is so sweet, and she had a hair disaster. She had the Bumble and Bumble treatment done, and her hair essentially fell out. I would say 40%, 50% of her hair - Bryan, would you say that is about right?
Bryan Barron: Yes. Naturally blonde. Just very much like what Claudia was saying, that her hair texture is fine, but she has a lot of it.
00:50:07 And it was clearly breakage. The hair wasn't coming out in packs. It was literally breaking.
Daynah Burnett: And you know, I think we are talking about a disaster - that's a disaster.
James Todd: That's horrifying.
Daynah Burnett: And she not only handled it with grace and aplomb. But she has been wearing a headband, like a rock star, for the past three months. A head band, I think, might be the best fix for a hair disaster because she is able to pull it right over, and she creates this beautiful little poof. And it looks great.
00:50:38 I mean, she is growing it out beautifully. And so I don't think you should underestimate the power of a headband.
James Todd: Well and I think research and products, too, you know your guest is doing a lot of research on her own and trying to find the right information, and find quality information, because there are so many things flooding the market because demand has asked for it. The Brazilian Blowout was highly toxic, was removed from the market.
00:51:03 So there has been an opening in the marketplace, so every manufacturer under the sun is throwing R&D at putting something into its place. Does that mean all of them are quality? No. Does that mean all of them are safe for every single hair type, are they color safe? No. So doing a lot of research, and not just going in and throwing chemicals on your head. And I have had guests that come in and say, "I really want to try the full treatment." I'm like, let's just try the Express.
00:51:30 I've had clients that have come in and said, "You know, I'm sick of my hair being full. But it is so fine that I'm afraid to do anything to it." Well, let's just try the at-home care and see what results we can get out of it. So, baby steps in this arena. And, I think, just like you said, there might be a pill for gray hair. The marketplace is going to answer women's call. Women want great results, high quality results, with minimal effort. And I think we are getting there.
00:51:57 These were the first few attempts at something new. I can't wait to see this in five years.
Bryan Barron: So we are going to switch gears here for just a second. I wanted to just address Joanne from Washington's question really quick. Joanne says that she is using the Paula's Choice Resist line, and she has a prescription for Retin-A for deep wrinkles, but she is worried should she use it. Joanne, absolutely, yes. There is no reason not to use it unless you know that you are sensitive to the active ingredient. It can be used with your Resist routine.
00:52:30 For specific guidelines on that I invite you to call our customer service team or live chat with them any time. They are very familiar with the product and how it fits into a routine. And they can help make sure that you are using it at the right spot in your routine. It is fine to do, and it is also fine to combine Retin-A with a product that contains retinol. So, don't be worried. Go for it. Make sure you use your sunscreen every day. And let's see what that does for you.
00:52:59 I think it is a very good thing.
Daynah Burnett: It's a great question, too.
Bryan Barron: And James.
James Todd: Yes.
Bryan Barron: Before the hour is up, and we are fast approaching that, I wanted to ask about hair trends for the spring season. What are you seeing, what do you like? What is really jumping out as being something that most women can easily pull off?
James Todd: Well I will say, you know, we always look to fashion at Gene Juarez for kind of the direction of where people are going.
00:53:32 And we look at fashion, of course celebrity, and what is happening. I will say I watched the Oscars a few weeks ago with baited breath, looking for great red carpet moments. And --
Bryan Barron: I don't think the fashion was all that great, but I did find Jessica Chastain's dress to be pretty remarkable.
James Todd: Oh, that girl is a beautiful girl, too. I mean, talk about a unique kind of beauty, and not ascribing to just looking like every other blonde on the block.
00:54:02 I love to see a redhead. And I love to see a girl with fair skin, and a girl that embraces that. It is a unique kind of beauty and I love it. I think this obsession with too tan and too blonde nationwide...
Bryan Barron: Oh, you know what. Daynah, let's get Mary Ellen from Florida on the line because James you just led into her question. She wants to know about hair color that is best for fair skin with flushed tones. Mary Ellen, are you meaning that you have a reddish skin tone?
Daynah Burnett: Oh, it looks like we are having some technical problems with Mary Ellen.
00:54:38 But maybe, James, you could just let us know what works best with fair skin and flushed tones as far as color goes.
James Todd: Well, you know, Jessica Chastain was a perfect example. I love to see a 14-karat blonde on fair skin. Instead of thinking, "Oh, I need to be Reese Witherspoon butter blonde," I love to see that really warm blonde to honey blonde. And I love that apricot, that super pale hint of red. I think that is a really refreshing switch on fair skin.
00:55:11 If you had any red in your hair, or gold in your hair as a child, even as you are getting older, and you feel like maybe that wasn't your best color when you were a teenager and your 20s, going there in your 30s, 40s, and 50s, warming up your color, to pull out some of that warmth in your skin is really nice. People tend to run from that - "Oh, I'm going to look too pink." When they say, "I'm a redhead, I can't wear pink." Think about that as an option.
00:55:36 And I think you might be surprised at how much more useful and refreshing it can feel.
Daynah Burnett: Well, I have a really quick question. We are talking about spring trends. What trends are over? What should we not be doing anymore with our hair?
James Todd: Hair that is past the bust line and really, really thin looking at the bottom. I think that's the over-Kardashian of America.
Bryan Barron: The Kardashian Nation?
James Todd: Yes.
Daynah Burnett: Kardashian Nation.
James Todd: You know, when I look at kind of that Real Housewives trend, that look where every woman looks the same, it is sad to me.
00:56:15 When I did look at the red carpet for Oscars, and you are right, I think it was a little bit of a snooze, but when I see Michelle Williams in a pixie, or Milla Jovovich in a really great little bob, or Cameron Diaz who cut her hair off into a bob. Finding haircuts that are suitable for you, and hair color that really enhances your eye color and your skin, as opposed to every woman trying to look the same because there are all kinds of different pretty.
00:56:37 And when I see that trend where everybody has got the super long, super highlighted iron-curled hair, it is not as engaging. And I think women miss the opportunity for their best self, instead of looking like an incarnation of someone else.
Daynah Burnett: That is great advice.
Bryan Barron: So, James, one more question for you before we wrap up. And this hopefully will be an easy one. And you have been so great, as always.
00:57:04 Any products right now that you are just loving? I know we have talked about a few as far as the Bumble and Bumble hair powder, but anything new out there that you have played with and just think, "Wow, this is in my kit forever?"
James Todd: Well, you know, I will say we are carrying a Coppola called Intense RX. It is made by Coppola. It is a Keratin at-home treatment. It is a game-changer. I have never seen anything quite like it. It is huge. And our Identity One hair care line. We are also creating a spray pigment that is soon to hit the market. I have been using it. I have been playing with it.
00:57:40 So for several of your callers that talked about gray, that is a huge one. And, you know, I know it has gotten a lot of press over the years, and it started with the Brazilian Blowout, but Argan Oil - everybody is carrying one now. We carry one. That is a unique product. And that is able to change hair texture and act like human hair oil as opposed to the synthetic silicone feeling of the last five years.
00:58:04 So all three of those are my new favorite things.
Bryan Barron: Are you referring to a pure Argan Oil, or is this Argan mixed with silicone?
James Todd: If I can get a pure Argan Oil, or oftentimes [unintelligible] is making one that is Argan and [chamomile oil]. Several of them do have silicone as a delivery system. The lower silicone falls onto the ingredient list, the more it acts like natural human hair oil in putting shine and resilience and bounce into the hair, rather than just flattening and slicking that hair down.
00:58:40 And that is a real wow as a hairdresser for someone that needs to get rid of that little bit of fuzz, but doesn't want the feeling of heaviness.
Daynah Burnett: Oh guys, we are unfortunately running out of time. James, it has been so great having you on the show, but we are running out of time.
James Todd: Thank you. It was a pleasure.
Bryan Barron: James, yes, thank you very much for your tips, for your advice. We will be in touch.
00:59:03 We would love to have you on again in the future. Always appreciate you stopping by.
James Todd: Thank you so much. And thank you to Paula and all the fans out there. We appreciate it.
Bryan Barron: Yay! Have a good night, James.
James Todd: Thank you. Bye.
Bryan Barron: Bye-bye. He is such a nice guy.
Daynah Burnett: He really is.
Bryan Barron: I could talk to him for hours.
Daynah Burnett: Oh yeah.
Bryan Barron: Even though I don't have much hair to talk about. Okay, next week we are going to be talking on March 13, Splurge vs. Steal. This is our show where we are going to tell you how to find identical department store cosmetics at the drugstore and save you money.
Daynah Burnett: Super fun!
Bryan Barron: On March 20 we are scheduled to have Paula back to talk about a topic that is near and dear to her - sagging skin from weight loss. What works and what is just hype?
00:59:48 And then on March 27 we are doing a lash show. Lash extensions, and mascara. Lovely lash tips from the pros. We are going to talk about lash growth products, the best mascaras that we found that won't set the budget back too far. Please join us every week at 6pm Pacific Time. At all hours - our shows are archived on We have transcripts available about two weeks after the show airs. So, come check us out any time.
01:00:19 Always fun talking to you. And I hope that this has been informative. Have a good night.
Daynah Burnett: Good night.
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