Secrets of a Celebrity Hairstylist

Airdate: 12/15/11

Looking for a way to liven up your lackluster locks? Celebrity hairstylist Sacha Q teams up with Paula to reveal quick and easy tips for beautiful, healthy-looking hair. Plus, get exclusive, insider secrets to learn how to recreate sleek, chic hair at-home!

Bryan Barron: Good evening everyone. My name is Bryan Barron and I'm on the air right now, December 15, Thursday evening at 6pm as part of the Paula's Choice Research Team with our producer, Desiree Stordahl, bringing you our show, "Be Beautifully Informed with Paula Begoun and her Paula's Choice Research Team." Paula is traveling for the holiday so you have got Desiree and I on the air tonight along with our special guest who we will get to in just a moment, Sacha Q.
00:00:34 We are going to be talking behind the scenes hair tips with this master celebrity stylist. As I said, before we get to that, wanted to, of course, say hello to Desiree. Hello Desiree.
Desiree Stordahl: Hello Bryan. I missed you guys last week.
Bryan Barron: We missed you, too, but given that you were vacationing in Hawaii we didn't feel too bad.
Desiree Stordahl: So I have kind of a funny story about Hawaii. My husband and I were taking our vacation there and about three days into the vacation I couldn't handle being white anymore. I was looking so pale and things just weren't looking good in a bikini.
00:01:12 So I broke down and put self-tanner on. And, Bryan, you and I were talking about this before the show and another coworker here was asking me for my tips on self-tanner because I do achieve a pretty good-looking fake tan.
Bryan Barron: Yes. In fact I was actually joking with Desiree that she got a little bit of sun because to me she looked a bit darker.
00:01:36 Not really tan, but I thought, you know Desiree, you didn't apply that sunscreen as often as you should have or whatever, but she told me it was self-tanner and I was like, okay, you have got to share some of your application tips on the air because how do you get it to look so convincing?
Desiree Stordahl: Well I think one of the key things is to make sure you exfoliate a day ahead. Self-tanners, you know, they grab onto the dead skin cells more than other areas. And those dead skin cells can build up in like your knee areas, your elbows, the neck.
00:02:10 So giving your skin a good, fresh, clean slate. And I do that with our BHA. And you could do a little bit of manual exfoliation with a washcloth as well. But, plus, once you have applied the self-tanner you are not going to want to exfoliate as much because that really does make the color go away. For me it almost makes it go away instantly.
00:02:30 So you really have to be careful with exfoliation if you want the color to last like I did when I was on vacation. Another thing is that I prefer to apply it at night, that way you give it time to absorb and dry and develop the color. Plus, that way I can make any adjustments in the morning if I notice an area is a little bit streaky or I need to touch up a little area that at least has given the color time to develop. Whereas if you apply it during the day, you are not really going to know what the result is until a few hours later and you could end up with some pretty bad areas an pretty bad mistakes.
00:03:05 And my other full proof tip is to always put a coat of lotion over those areas that I was talking about before that kind of grab onto the color more, so the knees, your feet, elbows, any area that is going to get a little bit darker. And for my face, I like to do a mixture of about two-thirds self-tanner and one-third moisturizer so that I don't look overly tan. And for the rest of my body I will mix in a little bit of our slip into silk lotion.
00:03:32 And by the way it is our Paula's Choice self-tanner that I use, "Almost the Real Thing" Self-Tanning Gel. But, the last trick of mine is when I put self-tanner all over my face it can kind of give it a flat, one-dimensional look. It almost looks too solid of a color. So I actually take a little bit of our Skin Balancing Toner, with a pad, and after I have applied the self-tanner I kind of dust over my nose area, the area between my nose and my lips and my chin.
00:04:04 And it is funny because those areas, you think of the center of your face as the areas that tend to grab onto sun more, that would give you a more natural look to be bronze in those areas, but for whatever reason on me that just doesn't look right. So if I kind of sheer those areas out a bit by putting the toner over them. It takes off a little bit of the color and my face - it just looks better. I just don't look that one-dimensional, flat, all-over bronze color.
00:04:32 It kind of gives a nice little effect.
Bryan Barron: Well you are obviously doing something right because personally I gave up on self-tanners quite a while ago. I was telling you earlier, it is just so much more challenging when you are shaving your face daily, as I do. Because I will put it on at night, or even if I put it on in the morning, after I shave it just never seems to look quite right. Or you put it on in the morning and then later in the day the color develops and you are thinking, oh, well missed that spot; now I have to go the rest of the day looking freaky.
00:05:08 And it is just a pain because you wake up, you put it on at night and it look great, you go to shave your face and the shaving is a form of exfoliation. It takes off some of that color along with it, so I have just embraced the pale and I don't think either of us wants to be running around in a bathing suit with all of the holiday dessert gift baskets that have been floating around the office.
Desiree Stordahl: No, I don't think so either.
00:05:34 One other little thing I forget to mention about the self-tanner is if you do make a mistake our BHA is great for that. You just put some of it over it; it will help exfoliate so that the mistake is a lot less noticeable.
Bryan Barron: The liquid, right?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes, I use the liquid.
Bryan Barron: That's probably the easiest. We have a cooler, literally a huge cooler of Ben & Jerry's ice cream delivered to us today from one of the companies that we work with designing our website. It was just incredible.
Desiree Stordahl: As if we are not getting fat enough, they are going to help us.
Bryan Barron: Yeah. We've got cookies here and fudge and popcorn balls and all kinds of stuff. It is so tempting; everywhere you look.
00:06:16 I'm just staying locked in my office with my hot tea and water. So, we are going to be talking behind the scenes hair tips. We are thrilled that Sacha Q is on with us tonight. Sacha, a little bit of background information on him. He started out as a hairstylist for numerous shows on Broadway and captured the attention of the industry there and he became the key hairstylist for the HBO series "Sex and the City." In fact, he went on to earn two Emmy nominations and the award for best contemporary hair stylist for television as a result of his work on that show.
00:07:00 He has done hair for films. If you saw "Wall Street 2: Money Never Sleeps," "Something Borrowed," and he is also the main hair guy for the next "Men in Black" movie. And this guy, his work has been everywhere. You have likely seen it if you look at fashion magazines. His work has been featured in Vogue, Vanity Fair, Cosmopolitan, People, Self. I mean, Sacha, when do you sleep?
Sacha Q: Not often lately, unfortunately.
Bryan Barron: Thank you so much for joining us.
Sacha Q: No problem. No problem.
00:07:38 I'm enjoying all the beauty tips. I'm figuring out how to look like I do get sleep.
Bryan Barron: Well, self-tanner can help, and a little artful concealer placement.
Sacha Q: I'm in.
Bryan Barron: Tell me real quick, what were some of the Broadway shows you were involved in earlier on?
Sacha Q: I was very blessed to work, my first Broadway show was "Jekyll & Hyde."
00:08:04 And the premiere on Broadway with that. And then I went to "Les Misérables" for like a year and did that and I toured it as well around the country.
Bryan Barron: Now when you were doing hair for "Les Misérables" were you assigned to key actors or was it just you are doing everyone's hair and all the wigs? I know there is typically a team.
Sacha Q: Yes, there were two of us.
00:08:31 And a lot of Broadway shows, they have more than two. And a lot of Broadway shows will travel two hair stylists and then hire more hairstylists in every city that they go to. But we were able to make it a concise show where literally the two of us could run all of the actors and the chorus and the leads and we had tracks that would follow each one for amazing changes.
00:08:53 I mean the wig changes were insane. There was a 14 second wig change in that movie. So, I mean just - not that movie, that Broadway show - when Fantine turns from a good girl to a prostitute and her hair came off. And it was always a challenge making sure wigs got on and stayed on.
Bryan Barron: And then maintaining them between shows - I admire that. It is such a symphony, and sometimes it is a symphony of chaos going on backstage trying to make sure that everything the audience sees is exactly what they are supposed to be seeing.
Sacha Q: And the neat thing about Broadway that I learned very young in that business was the performers bring it, so amazing, every night.
00:09:46 I mean every night it is amazing. So everyone that is involved in making that happen just gets on board. It is an amazing choreography that comes together to make a show work. And it is just awesome to be a part of.
Desiree Stordahl: Sacha, what project are you on right now?
Bryan Barron: Oh, that's right. Are you calling from a set?
Sacha Q: I just literally wrapped a movie last night at 3am called "Gangster Squad."
Desiree Stordahl: Who's in that?
Sacha Q: It's a big Shoot ‘Em Up bang-bang 1949 period action movie with Josh Brolin starring, Sean Penn, Giovanni Ribisi, Ryan Gosling -
Desiree Stordahl: Ooh, my favorite.
Sacha Q: Emma Stone, Nick Nolte. Emma Stone is your favorite?
Desiree Stordahl: Ryan Gosling.
Sacha Q: Oh, I was going to say, yeah, most girls do like him. He's pretty [unintelligible].
00:10:43 He's a very nice guy, a very nice guy. So we just finished shooting last night, blowing things up. No more blowing things up. I'm ready to get away from gunfire.
Desiree Stordahl: Oh my gosh.
Sacha Q: It was exciting. Spent four months in Los Angeles and I am heading home to New York tomorrow morning.
Bryan Barron: Oh, how nice. Christmas in New York, huh?
Sacha Q: Yes, I'm ready to go home.
00:11:02 I've been out of town shooting for six months now. I was up on a movie in Connecticut for two months before this. And then I flew straight here to LA for this movie and now it is time to go home.
Bryan Barron: Well, again, thank you for squeezing us into your schedule this evening.
Sacha Q: Oh, my pleasure. Thank you for having me.
Bryan Barron: So how long were you working on "Sex and the City" - for multiple seasons?
Sacha Q: I did half of the second season, the third season and the fourth season.
Bryan Barron: Now were you working with all of the lead actresses?
Sacha Q: Yes.
Bryan Barron: Okay.
00:11:39 Whose hair was your favorite to work on?
Sacha Q: I have to say Kristin Davis. Her hair is so gorgeous and so much fun to do texture with. I mean Sarah has beautiful hair, too, and we did lots of fun things and we got to design things and hair pieces and amazing accessories, and hair accessories which everybody copied and made lots of money off of.
00:12:08 I should have started an accessory line because I think that is the big business. It was quite playful. But we had a great time on the show. And there was so much - it was wild, we were shooting two episodes at a time, most of the time. And then for multiple days between each episode we were shooting four episodes at a time because it was our turnover to the next two.
00:12:30 And to orchestrate all of those hairstyles and the continuity and getting everyone happily done, it was just really exciting and fun, and the girls were really great with input. They were very smart and had great opinions on their style and the designer, Patricia Field, was amazing because she had such great looks and ideas with us. We all put it together and we made a great show.
Bryan Barron: Oh, it's one of my favorites. And I love at its core it is about the friendship between four very different people and the actresses were all uniformly good.
00:13:10 That brings up a question, just a concept of, you were talking about the shooting schedule and having to do multiple hairstyles, change the hair this way, put it back this way. That has to be damaging on an actresses' hair --?
Sacha Q: It can be horrible damaging. There is no question.
Bryan Barron: So how do you keep these actresses' hair looking so good when it is manipulated and styled and flat-ironed and everything, obviously much more frequently than the average woman would do on a daily basis?
00:13:44 How is it that these actresses whose hair is constantly being damaged on set have hair that most women will look at and think, "Gosh, I wish my hair looked like hers."
Sacha Q: Well, there are multiple things that you can do to keep your hair up. I'm a big fan of a really amazing hair mask. Pravana is a company I have been using for a long time that I work with.
00:14:12 And they have a brilliant weekly hair mask that is so restorative and if you don't give the hair love and hydrate it and make sure that the damage is repaired in certain ways, it is going to slowly deteriorate, the color is going to deteriorate. It is going to break off unfortunately. But, all of the mini things you can do - my main thing is very good shampoos and conditioners. That is a great start.
00:14:43 And I really am a big fan of shampoos and conditioners that are parabens and sulfate and sulfite free. And I don't touch a shampoo and conditioner that doesn't have those factors going on which is great because once again the Pravana stuff I use is awesome in that way. I also am a big fan of thermal protectant.
00:15:04 I use a lot of blow dryers, a lot of irons. And with that there is an amazing [Perfection] Blow Dry Spray, and it has polymers. Not only does it protect the hair, but it is pretty ridiculous on the way it displaces the water and cuts your drying time. It is just brilliant. So that is a big, big deal. I think prescribing the correct products for everyone's hair type is my biggest -
00:15:34 It's like I'm the "Hair Doctor." I literally take care of my girls and boys that come in to make sure that they are in the best shape throughout every project. Because it is not like I am doing them for a quick photo shoot where I can turn and burn them. Do whatever I have to do, get them in front of the camera, hold it up for five minutes and call it a day. I literally have to recreate styles for three to six months. And if my hair isn't, on my girls and boys, isn't the best it can be at all times, I am not going to achieve those hairstyles that can last 12, 14 hours a day.
00:16:04 It's a tough job but it is really about setting the playing field and making sure that the hair is kept in the best possible shape. After the products, which are like - of course use thermal styles like the [Perfection] blow dry spray and doing hair masks once a week to give it that extra nutrients, it would go to the blow drying situations, making sure my blow dryer is not on the highest setting for heat.
00:16:32 It's the tilt - I yell at girls all the time. "My iron, it gets hot so quick, it is the best iron in the world," I'm like, what do you have it set at? "450." I'm like, oh my god. And their hair starts burning at the end. I'm like, this is why this happens. You can't let your blow dryer --
Bryan Barron: The boiling point of water is 212 degrees.
Sacha Q: Exactly.
Bryan Barron: So you are heating up your flat iron to almost, well, actually it is double that. And no wonder - you are absolutely going to cause - any moisture that is inside the hair shaft is literally going to start to boil.
Sacha Q: Literally.
00:17:08 It is so bad for the hair. I literally will put - you know some hair types can take a higher heat - a coarse, like a very coarse thick ethnic hair can go a little hotter. But I still don't let them go full power. I mean it is just like you have got to take care of yourself. When you go with a blow dryer - it is a flame thrower. If you are using a blow dryer and you watch your hairstylist, they move the blow dryer very quickly up and down the shaft of the hair.
00:17:34 When you are moving it --
Bryan Barron: What the good stylists do.
Sacha Q: The good stylists. Well, if you are going to a stylist that puts the blow dryer on the hair and just melts it down the line, just walk away. Or no, run away, as quick as possible. If you are going to a great hairstylist that moves that blow dryer very quickly and makes sure that they are not leaving it and burning the hair as you have your hair dry because they are in a hurry to get you out of there and go to the next person, it is just like you have to pay attention to all of these things to keep your hair as healthy as possible.
Desiree Stordahl: Sacha, I have a question for you.
00:18:08 What about for women who aren't as skilled at hairstyling and they want to do a simple, easy but fun and glamorous holiday soiree hairdo. They have an office party or some New Year's Eve party, do you have any simple quick and easy tips for ladies?
Sacha Q: There are a lot of really cool things you can do, especially with up-do's, and half up/half down, little styling points.
00:18:37 I love, one of the things we used to do on Sarah Jessica Parker all the time for "Sex and the City" which should take about five minutes, and we did it on Kristin Davis, was these double pull-through ponytails where you take the hair, you comb it with a very, very - depending on your texture, if you have a very coarse curly hair you can finger the hair up into a ponytail at a certain level.
00:19:00 I like to keep it kind of high. Sarah would do them on top of her head. Some girls like them a little further back, kind of going straight away from their face. Now when you go straight back and away from the face and like almost right below the crown of your head, it really gives a beautiful shape silhouette. And you take the hair, you pull it through the ponytail twice, when you are pulling it through the second time you kind of don't pull it all the way through and you make it into this bunch, like a really cool bunch.
00:19:33 And then you start, you take long hair pins and you kind of mush it into this fun sexy bun. And then you just take these hair pins and kind of lock it into the base of it, and it is like literally a three-minute up-do. And you can pull out little pieces to make it kind of funky and run your fingers in it and kind of just tousle into it to make it look like a more modern tail instead of it being too perfect.
00:19:58 I like it a little messy personally when it comes to my ladies.
Desiree Stordahl: So do I.
Sacha Q: So I always take a little finger movement in the hair. And even in the sides when you pull the hair back, I kind of just put my fingertips in the hair and just slightly scratch the head and it just gives them more volume and makes it softer and prettier.
Desiree Stordahl: What are some of the popular hairstyle trends that you are loving right now? Are there new coloring techniques? What's going on?
Sacha Q: Well, we are moving into fall - no, I'm in LA, we are moving into winter in New York. So, I actually am a big fan of the hair going a little darker. I really enjoy the tones of fall and winter - the browns, more low-lights. Number one, it gives your hair a break from the harsh, harsh light coloring. So that is also a great thing for adding health to your hair.
00:20:53 And number two I just think it is really pretty on the skin tones. I think a lot of people don't pay attention to their skin tones when they are choosing their color. So when they start going a little darker, sometimes they go - it's softer on their skin; it doesn't wash them out as much. I think I am always about that, loving that situation for the colder months.
Desiree Stordahl: And I wanted to remind listeners that you can call in at 347-426-3783 and we will be talking questions from callers here in just a bit.
00:21:25 And actually I have another one for you, Sacha. How do you help encourage someone who has been sporting the same hairdo since 1992 that it is time for an update? I can think of some people in my life that I personally don't want to offend, but I kind of want to help encourage them to do something more flattering and contemporary.
Sacha Q: Well, I think that situation, encouragement in a situation like that, comes with trust. So, I have been very blessed. I mean thank goodness my career has gone so well that usually when I try to explain to someone that something might be a better place or a better way for them to do their hair, as times have changed and 2011 is here, they are usually a little accepting of that.
00:22:09 And they are like, "Well, if you do that for those people, you can do that for me," and I'm like, cool. But what I do find, I think I try to help - people are very against it - I try to show them with wigs and hair pieces where their hair could be, what the color could be differently. And that has helped them to see how beautiful a certain layering would be on the front of the face.
00:22:36 And literally people are so visual, they are like, "What do you mean you want to layer around the front of my face?" It's like, I literally put the hair on them and show - hey, look when that hits your jaw line how it accentuates and makes you look more beautiful. It softens your neck line. And it just explains it - it is descriptive. And they see it and then they look in the pages of a magazine, "Oh, I saw that." It's a process. It just takes -
00:23:02 When the hairstylist is working in the salon and they have other clients, they can literally show them pictures of people with the same face shape of the idea they are trying to sell their client. There are multiple ways. I think it is all about visuals for most people when they go to the salon. And in the film business when I am dealing with directors and people that don't normally understand hair, I have to be ridiculously visual in explaining what I want to do and how I want to develop a character.
00:23:34 And maybe how I am going to change with the time period for their life. Maybe it will be 20 years earlier we are showing them in a different area through the film --
Bryan Barron: It's a big...hair is an emotional thing.
Sacha Q: Extremely.
Bryan Barron: It is very easy to get stuck in a rut and not even know you are in a rut because what you have been doing for so many years, either you are comfortable with it or it just simply works. You don't really even have to think about it anymore. You just go in for that occasional trim or the color and it is always the same.
00:24:09 And that works for a lot of people. But I think stepping outside of those safety lines can really be transforming.
Sacha Q: It is. I agree with you. And I think another thing that a lot of people, when they are - the main reason I think it happens this way are people keep the hairstyle that was their prime look, when they were hot, and they were young little...going through the best part of their life, that is the style.
00:24:38 I can literally look at someone and tell you when they were in college because it is like, boom, they do the same hair style, the same color that they have been doing all of those years. [the texture]. And that is where a lot of people, changing their textures is a big point of change for them because I have had this curly hair and I think I want to be smoother and straighter and more fabulous. And they are going to all of these processes to do this.
00:25:07 And that is another great way for people to ease on their drying time and not kill their hair with the hot, hot blow dryer and the hot, hot iron. And it is not really good at the styling of their hair every day. If you go and get like a straightening treatment; I do them all the time on my actors. I use the [unintelligible] and it is phenomenal how freeing - changing the internal texture of the hair without any damaging chemicals that could hurt your internal, like a lot of these Keratin and [Bio-ionic] processes.
Desiree Stordahl: Can you speak into your phone just a bit more? We are losing a little bit of the sound on you there.
Sacha Q: Oh, I'm sorry.
Desiree Stordahl: There we go; that's better.
Bryan Barron: That's much better.
00:25:55 So Sacha you are not a fan of the so-called Brazilian Blowout?
Sacha Q: I can't be. They have actually been given a lot of warnings about the products with the formaldehyde and it is dangerous. People are pulling them - in New York City five salons that I know of that friends work at literally aren't allowed to do them on the floor because people were getting sick. And I don't think you should compromise the client or the stylist to get a great look.
00:26:29 So that is personally why I use the Perfection, it is the only one I found that gets the same quality when it comes to the straightening and the beauty and the [unintelligible] and that excitement that everybody wants with smooth beautiful hair, and it doesn't harm you. You are not compromising anything.
Bryan Barron: So this is a product called Perfection? And who makes it? Is it salon-only?
Sacha Q: It is salon-only. Pravana makes it. And it is called Perfection. And it is very simple; it takes about an hour and you are out the door with fabulous hair.
00:27:03 And the great thing about, like for me, the biggest quality breakdown of it is you can color your hair the same day you get the service. So when I am doing a movie and I am on set and I have to get the hair straightened, I have to color it, because we are literally usually doing everything in a quick prep situation and getting them on-camera, I can do all services in the same day. I don't have to let them sit with that product on their hair for three days where it is all greasy and they can't wash their hair.
00:27:31 Can literally do the Perfection treatment, get the actor washed, throw the color that the director or the production designer has chosen or we have all chosen together, and they are ready to shoot that day. So it is just a home run in a lot of ways for me.
Bryan Barron: So I know you are not - well, actually, I'm glad that you are mentioning the need to be careful with heat styling tools.
00:27:59 And in that vein I wanted to ask if you had any particular favorite tools to style the hair. Do you have a line of brushes that you like? Is there a flat iron that you just wouldn't be without?
Sacha Q: I am a big fan of the Ergo Flat Iron. The Ergo Flat Iron is amazing. I have used a bunch, they are all pretty great. A lot of them are really great, it just depends.
00:28:30 My biggest thing about irons is they have to have a thermostat. So that is the biggest buying point when it comes to flat irons. If you are not buying one with a thermostat to control the heat that is going on your hair, you are making a big mistake. And the same with blow dryers. You should have multiple heat settings, multiple blower settings for the speed of the engine.
Bryan Barron: What do you think about, a lot of blow dryers have the cool air setting, and when I blow dry my hair I traditionally use that. I don't know if it is just in my mind, but I actually notice that when I use the cool setting for about 30 seconds or so all over the hair, my hairstyle lasts longer and my hair looks smoother.
00:29:15 Is there really anything to that or am I just kidding myself?
Sacha Q: No, you are actually on point. The great thing about a cool button is when you set hair, I set hair all the time. That is how I get my looks that last 12 hours a day. And you set hair with heat. And after it is set, the cooling time in that shape is what keeps it, and gives it a great hold or lift. Like if you are holding the hair straight out, and you heat it, and then you cool it and make sure it is completely cool, it will hold that shape. And that is the whole idea behind hot rollers.
00:29:54 Really what a round brush is is a hot roller with a blow dryer. So you are blow drying it, heating it, giving it shape, and if you cool button that shape, and don't take the brush out and let it cool completely, but you are just cooling it quicker than leaving a roller in for 15 minutes, you are doing the same thing in effect, so you have a beautiful shape that lasts for a period of time.
Bryan Barron: Excellent. Well, if you are up for it Sacha we do have some women who have been calling in. They have questions for you. How are you feeling about staying on the line?
Sacha Q: I'm here with you.
00:30:32 I'm not going anywhere.
Bryan Barron: All right, awesome. Just so our listeners know, again, the number to call in if you have questions for Sacha is 347-426-3783 and all callers will be receiving Paula's Choice Shampoo and Conditioner which are fragrance-free and very gentle, and they are safe for color-treated hair, Sacha.
Sacha Q: I like that.
Desiree Stordahl: All right, let's go to our first caller. We have Kathy in New Jersey.
Kathy: Hello.
Bryan Barron: Hi Kathy.
Kathy: Hi.
00:31:02 How you doing?
Bryan Barron: Good. Did you have a question for Sacha or for Desiree and I?
Kathy: Yes I do. For Sacha.
Bryan Barron: Go for it.
Kathy: I am 60 and I have let my hair go natural. And it is a lovely silver white. I was wondering if there are any products on the market to enhance the color.
Sacha Q: To enhance it, to make it whiter?
Kathy: To enhance the silver, yes.
Sacha Q: There are a lot of products on the market for that. I don't know the exact names of them, but there is one -
00:31:40 What they are is they are color shampoo and conditioners usually that have a little purple in them. It pops the white and takes away the yellow. If you go to a beauty supply, a really good one in your area, you can ask them about this and they will be able to help you with the exact.
00:32:05 I'm trying to remember because my grandmother used to have one, it was awesome.
Kathy: She didn't have blue hair, did she?
Bryan Barron: She didn't have blue hair.
Sacha Q: No, she didn't have blue hair. You have to use it little by little. When you get this product, when you go to any beauty supply you can ask them about it; they will help you find the right product. But use it very minimally at first to find out - to not go purple. See how your hair takes it. If it is [in good health] and is not porous, it should be perfect.
00:32:40 You wash it in and it gives it a little pop to the color, takes the yellow out, and then you wash it out.
Kathy: Okay, I will go check that out.
Desiree Stordahl: All right, thanks Kathy. And we will be sending you, like Bryan said, our Paula's Choice Shampoo and Conditioner.
Kathy: Oh, thank you very much. I appreciate it. Have a good evening.
Desiree Stordahl: You are welcome. You too.
Bryan Barron: Thanks Kathy. Sacha, do you remember a product, I don't even know if they still make it.
00:33:05 It was from Clairol and it was called "Summer Lights."
Sacha Q: Yes, I do remember that.
Bryan Barron: It was either slightly blue or violet tinted shampoo and conditioner that was designed to counteract the brassy tones that blonde hair can pick up when it has had too much sun.
Sacha Q: Yes. I do remember the product.
Bryan Barron: I can't say that I have seen it around lately, but that one came to mind when Kathy brought that up.
Sacha Q: Yeah, there are a lot of violet shampoos out there. But there are a million brands that make them. And the ones that I knew, literally, I haven't dealt with them for ten years.
00:33:49 They change, they all get different names - I can look it up though. That is an easy one to look up.
Desiree Stordahl: Absolutely. And we can get in touch with you via email and send out those recommendations to Kathy after the show.
Sacha Q: Absolutely.
Desiree Stordahl: All right. So next up we have Karen in Indiana.
Bryan Barron: Hello Karen.
Karen: Good evening. Hi, how are you?
Bryan Barron: We are doing great. What's on your mind tonight?
Karen: Awhile back I suffered a really bad trauma. And in that trauma all of my hair fell out. Now, prior to that trauma I had very thick straight hair. When my hair grew back in, it is now curly. Imagine my surprise.
00:34:31 I have no way of knowing how to handle curly hair. I have never had it. I don't know how to deal with it. The conditioners that I have chosen leave my hair very oily, very dirty looking. And also I do use deposit color because it also grew back in white which is very normal after a tragedy. My question is what conditioner or what am I doing wrong that is causing that heaviness. And what is the best way for me to protect my new curl, because I just love it?
Sacha Q: So you love the curl, and you are saying it is oily?
Karen: Any time I use conditioner.
00:35:12 I have tried about 13 different conditioners and they all leave my hair very heavy and very oily.
Sacha Q: Okay, so is it oily from the root to the ends or just at the root area?
Karen: It's oily from the roots to the end. It is almost like it gives it - you look like you just came out of a pouring rain kind of look oily. It's very unattractive.
Sacha Q: You are a using a ridiculously heavy conditioner as I am guessing, because it shouldn't do that. And, sometime hair doesn't need a ton of conditioner. Sometimes you can just use a real light spray conditioner, or a leave-on, a leave-in. Here is a question, when you are getting out of the shower do you find your hair hard to get through?
Karen: Not necessarily.
00:35:57 No, I wouldn't say that. With a wide tooth comb I can get through it very easily.
Sacha Q: And that is after you conditioned it though?
Karen: No, that is actually if I don't condition it goes through fairly easy. I wouldn't say there is a lot of complication.
Sacha Q: Okay. Well here is what I recommend. If that is the way it is, you don't need to condition it heavily. You might have a very moisturized hair situation because you are not doing a lot of blow drying. You are not coloring it heavily, are you?
Karen: I color every four weeks religiously because I am 41 and I have all white hair.
00:36:35 And I'm not ready to do the Paula Deen thing quite yet.
Sacha Q: Absolutely. What color are you going with?
Karen: I use Garnier Nutrisse Fantastic Red.
Sacha Q: Oh wow. Fun.
Karen: I'm kind of a funky, artistic kind of woman. So it fits.
Sacha Q: I love it. I think it is great. Well here's a funny thing we have in common. I had a very bad accident when I was young, in high school, and my hair did the same thing.
00:37:02 It was stick straight and went crazy curly. I also have very - my follicle, the oil glands are very over sebaceous, so personally I can have very oily hair if I use heavy conditioners or any conditioner at all. So I personally don't use conditioner on my hair; I don't need to.
Karen: I just assumed that I should condition heavily because I color and I use over-the-counter color. So I don't need to? That's great news.
Sacha Q: I personally would try not using conditioner. And I would try a light leave-in conditioner. A great one that I use is Intense Therapy. It is a little spray bottle. But it is much lighter than using a heavy conditioner. And you just spray it on after you wash your hair. I literally do it on almost every style I do. And I just towel dry the hair really well, and then I spray this on, and then I would take the wide tooth comb like you were talking about, comb through it.
00:38:07 Kind of put it in the shape you want it and let it dry naturally. That is what curls are great for. It's like you don't have to do a lot.
Karen: Oh fantastic. I'm so glad it is a simple solution.
Sacha Q: It's a very simple solution. If it is getting oily you are probably using too much conditioner or you shouldn't be using conditioner at all. Your hair probably doesn't need it.
Karen: Okay. Well thank you so much for your time.
Bryan Barron: Sacha, if she continues to struggle with some oiliness, would it be a good idea for Karen to look into maybe adding one of the hair powders to her styling?
Sacha Q: Well, that is why I asked her if it was the root.
00:38:47 How often are you washing your hair?
Karen: I was every other day. And I do use a dry...it's what they call Big Sexy Hair, and it is their powder gel that you apply at the root, rub in, and it gives you lift and volume for heavier thicker hair. It does well, although I will tell you I don't like the way it feels on my scalp. It does a fantastic job.
Sacha Q: Yeah, I have played with a lot of the dry shampoos, or the dry shampoo sprays. And a lot of them - different types for different vibes. I personally am always trying to get a little hold out of my products. At the same time, while I am looking to get rid of the oily root area and to give lift.
00:39:32 So I use one called Fresh. It is also from a company I work with. But if you love it, I say - I never try to push - if you are happy I am not going to tell you to do something that doesn't make you happy. But, I don't think what you are dealing with, I wouldn't go with a heavy powder. I don't think you should powder on top of conditioner if it is really just a conditioner that is making the hair oily. Because if she has enough oil in her hair naturally, or she is using a moisturizing shampoo, and that is enough without having to go with the conditioner, I would say just stick with that and get off of the powder as well. Because I don't think she is going to have the oily issue after she stops conditioning.
Karen: I started using the Garnier Nutrisse line of Color Shield Shampoo and it is really good for elongating the color.
00:40:24 But could that be adding to my problem perhaps?
Sacha Q: It might be, yes. I actually think your shampoo might be too moisturizing. The whole process - they are color care. So a lot of the color care has a lot of oils and stuff to keep the nutrients up. So, it could be that shampoo or conditioner. You might want to try another type of shampoo and conditioner that is not so hydrating.
Desiree Stordahl: Karen, how about this. We will send you some of ours, our Paula's Choice All Over Hair and Body Shampoo and you can try that out.
Karen: I would love that.
00:41:00 Thank you. I would love to have a product that I could just buy forever.
Sacha Q: Except for shampoos and conditioners. You don't always use the same every day. I like mixing it up. You do different things. It kind of gives the hair a shock. It is kind of nice that way as well.
Karen: I will say this, and this is rather odd. If I use a high alcohol content hairspray such as an OTC brand called Got2b that seems to alleviate the oiliness away from the root. Go figure.
Sacha Q: High alcohol, of course, is drying. It is very drying. And that is why.
Karen: It does well on my hair.
Bryan Barron: Yes, it is absorbing. It is absorbing those oils.
Karen: So is it a good thing that I am using it?
Sacha Q: No, not a good thing.
00:41:45 You don't want to dry out your hair with high alcohol. It is damaging on the hair. I mean if you want to use spray, I agree with using spray for hold, not for drying out oil. Because hairsprays drying out oils, it is too strong, it is too heavy. It's too much.
Karen: Thank you so much for your advice for your help. And thank you, Paula, for the products.
Desiree Stordahl: All right, thanks Karen. All right. Our next caller is Jack in the UK.
Bryan Barron: Hello Jack.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay, we will go to somebody else.
00:42:27 It sounds like Jack has his radio on a bit too loud there. We have Joan in Illinois.
Bryan Barron: Jack was having a fun time waiting for his call to be taken. Hi Joan. What can we help you with tonight?
Joan: Hi there. I have thin hair and I know my hairstylist put some highlights in my hair. And I have dark brown hair but the highlights are sort of blondish. And it does, you know initially the first time she did it, it made my hair look great. And I guess though they do dry out, this blonde hair. I'm not used to blonde hair.
Sacha Q: Well, did you ask for the highlights?
Joan: Oh yes, yes. I thought it was a good idea.
00:43:09 I was getting sort of tired with my same hair style.
Sacha Q: How dark is your hair?
Joan: It's probably a medium brown. I mean it is not black at all. It is a medium brown but doesn't have red tones or anything. So, I mean the highlights, I didn't know if that was going out of style or if it is still in style?
Sacha Q: Highlights are not in style, but what I will say is if you have a very fine texture, when you are lifting the hair you are actually compromising the health of that hair. And if you find it weak already and you go in and you take away more, it weakens it, it could make it break easily. The color won't hold because the hair already is - probably has very weak - losing my mind here. I'm tired.
00:44:07 It compromises the hair health. So my personal opinion is if you have a medium brown, I would maybe do - you can do some lowlights and highlights, but your highlights don't have to be as light as a blonde. I would probably go with some lighter browns, warmer tone browns that are just maybe a shade or two lighter than what you have already. And with that, you are not stripping the hair down as much as you would be going really blonde.
00:44:38 And then I would also take a tone level of color a little darker than your own tone just to give it that beautiful dimension. And when you do that, your hair when it grows out, it actually gives it a little bit longer before you have to get to the salon because your own tone is one of your natural lowlights. So that when it grows out it is a much softer grow out instead of putting really heavy highlights and you see a big line of demarcation.
00:45:05 And it is like, oh my god, I have to get my roots done. So by doing the multiple tones on either side of your own natural tone, it just makes it more beautiful and an easier grow out. And you are not as [unintelligible] the blonde.
Bryan Barron: There is less contrast.
Joan: Well that is true. And I guess would I be in the salon longer then? Does that take longer to do low and high?
Sacha Q: No, because you are already doing - what are you doing, one tone of highlights, right?
Joan: Right. That's all.
Sacha Q: All they are doing is instead of like every other highlight, they are going to do a little bit lighter brown, and then the next foil will be a little bit darker. So it is going to be the same amount of tones, or same amount of work, just different tones put in it.
00:45:50 So it won't take any longer.
Joan: Well, and does a person know how to pull up the hair and where those streaks should be, if you call them streaks or highlights.
Sacha Q: Well your colorist that is doing your hair now, if you explain to her that you would like to choose a shade a little darker, just a little bit darker, just to give it dimension. And you say you want it woven very finely into your hair. And the same thing with, say I want a mixture, I want a mixture of a little darker than my own tone. I want to use my own tone as one of my colors and I want to use a little lighter than my own tone but not going blonde, woven very finely, so it looks like it is literally [kitsch] with all of these different tones, and it is really nice and you will love it.
00:46:36 It's very easily understood by most colorists. I don't know a lot that wouldn't get that.
Joan: And if this is now until it grows back and it gets sort of dry, should I put Vaseline on it or something? I'm kidding.
Sacha Q: Oh don't put Vaseline in your hair, please. You will have the problem that our other lady has with the oil.
Bryan Barron: Well not to mention that Vaseline or any, like an olive oil, they are so hard to wash out.
Joan: That's right.
Bryan Barron: You end up shampooing five or six times and your hair is drier than when you started.
00:47:08 But you need to shampoo to get all that gunk out of the hair.
Joan: And my hair is naturally dry, so of course the breakage can be - I have to be very careful not to break all of these highlights off.
Sacha Q: Earlier in the show we talked about hair masks that I put on my actors every week. And it is awesome. It is from Perfection.
00:47:30 It is a weekly hair mask. You put it on there. I personally, when I do it, I put a warming cap or I take a shower cap and put it over the hair, put the product on the hair, and I take a blow dryer or a warming cap and I heat it. And I leave it on for about ten minutes. And I do that once a week and it is amazing how soft and beautiful the hair is after its done.
Joan: But that is salon only?
Sacha Q: This is at home. You can buy this.
Bryan Barron: Right, the line he is talking about you can get at stores. But, Joan, you can try what Sacha is saying with any good conditioner. I mean if you want to look for a product labeled a mask, they are definitely out there. And some of them do tend to be richer than a standard rinse-out conditioner.
00:48:18 But the bottom line with any conditioner is the longer you can leave it on your hair the better. So if that means overnight, if that means you do the shower cap and the heat thing Sacha was talking about, maybe just have it under the cap while you are watching your favorite TV show and then rinse before you go to bed.
Sacha Q: There is an old product when I was in Beauty School called Queen Helene Cholesterol.
Bryan Barron: Oh yes, in the big old tub.
Sacha Q: Remember that?
Bryan Barron: Yeah.
Joan: I don't remember it.
Sacha Q: It is still in drugstores. And you can throw that on the head and do the same thing with it. That is where I learned that idea with heating the shower cap or putting a heating cap on was that old school way of doing it.
00:49:03 And it works. It penetrates. Don't do anything as heavy as Vaseline but hair masks, a nice hair mask, all beauty supplies have them, CVS, any drugstore. It is amazing. You look on the shelves, you find something, heavier mask conditioning treatment. Put it on your hair, heat it, you will love it. Leave it on and watch a TV show. It will be great.
Joan: Okay, well thanks for your advice.
Desiree Stordahl: And Joan we will be sending you some of our Paula's Choice Shampoo and Conditioner so you can try that out as well.
Joan: Okay, thank you so much.
Bryan Barron: Thanks Joan.
Desiree Stordahl: Our next caller is Annie in Michigan.
Annie: Oh hello. Can you hear me?
Bryan Barron: Yes, hi Annie.
Annie: Hi, sorry about that. Can you hear me okay?
Desiree Stordahl: Now we can hear you.
Bryan Barron: Now that is better.
Annie: Thank you. My question is I have thick wavy hair. I can wear it curly with a lot of humidity. It straightens out, it looks great. But I don't have a lot of time in the morning and I like to wash it at night.
00:50:07 And I can blow it dry and it looks really good, but then of course when I wake up it doesn't look so great. So I don't know if I should just wet it and dry it in the morning and let it dry curly overnight? Or do you have any tips on how to save time?
Sacha Q: So, here's my question, are you talking, so this is for a curly look, right?
Annie: Well, I don't like it stick straight, and I don't like it really curly. I just like it kind of bouncy. Sometimes I will put a couple of Velcro rollers on it and blow it, just so I get some wave and big hair.
00:50:37 Not really big hair, but just sort of some swing. And I guess I have pretty good hair but I just don't know how to style it myself so well every day. And I'm not even sure how much to wash it. I don't need to wash it every day now. Do you wet it on the day that you don't wash it and blow it again?
Sacha Q: And you are doing this at home by yourself, so there are multiple things you can do, depending on how you have done your hair, if it is done for straight or done for curly. If you are doing your hair curly, if you dry it are using a diffuser I'm guessing?
Annie: No. I don't usually use a diffuser. I just have a regular old hair dryer and I sort of just blow it and I blow it around and use a flat paddle brush and kind of smooth it out.
Sacha Q: And then it goes a little wavy again after you have done -
Annie: Yeah, it's a little wavy.
00:51:36 Probably the biggest problem I have - go ahead.
Sacha Q: I'm sorry, if you like the wave, a really great way to do it, if you like big waves, a funny thing, young ladies probably back in college, they would braid their hair. They would braid it in a French braid or in multiple braids and they would sleep in them. That is one way to do it. And that gives a really interesting wave. And the more braid you put, the more texture it puts in it.
00:52:06 If you do one big braid, it is a looser wave. If you do multiple braids it gets tighter and more curly. Another great way to do it is old school - put your hair in curls and pin curls. Wrap the hair around your pin, the bobby pin, and then depending on how big you want these waves to be, take larger sections and wrap it around your finger and place it against your head and take a bobby pin and pin it to your head and sleep in it.
00:52:37 When you release it, you will have these amazing waves. And you can just kind of [play around] to it and put it in the shape that you want it.
Annie: I will have to try that.
Sacha Q: They are great. I pin curl hair all the time. A friend of mine did the movie "A Beautiful Mind." And if you remember Jennifer Connelly's hair, he pin curled her whole head every day and set her under a dryer when she had her makeup done.
00:53:05 And it was gorgeous. Pin curls are gorgeous. They are old school but they are gorgeous and they bring up beautiful waves to the hair.
Annie: How many do you put in your head? I'm just trying to think. Are you talking like 12?
Sacha Q: Well for her it was a lot because she had very wavy hair. For less wavy, you just want a beautiful soft wave, start practicing and pinning those, you could do four pin curls. You could do seven pin curls.
00:53:31 It just depends on how wavy you want the hair. And the larger the section that you take in the pin curl, the looser the wave is going to be.
Annie: Well I will have to try it. I sometimes just put some silicone on and a scrunchie and go to bed and sometimes it is great in the morning and sometimes it isn't.
Sacha Q: Well the silicone, are you looking to make it wetter looking? Because silicones make it shine, give shine.
Annie: Shiny, because I am 50 now. So I color my hair and I just want it to look shiny and healthy and young.
Sacha Q: Well here is the thing about silicones.
00:54:08 If I were you I wouldn't put the silicone on the hair to set it. If you want the silicone - that is probably one of the problems. Don't use that to set your hair. Use either a light leave-in conditioner. Leave-in conditioners are a great way to set the hair. Put it in, lightly, and it doesn't have all the crazy silicones. When you do silicones it gets kind of oily and all matte together and it won't really come out great.
00:54:32 So don't use that. Put that in after your hair is in the shape you want it to because it doesn't help set hair. Oil breaks down the hold of a look. So you are only putting very minimal amounts of that on to get that shine to make it look a little - pop the shine in color.
Bryan Barron: And I think trying those tips and the next morning to add that shine to the hair is you can invest in a silicone spray. They are often called shine sprays. So undo the pin curls, get your hair situated the way you want it, and then you can lightly mist the hair and get that sort of a halo of shine as opposed to slicking -
00:55:17 Because if you take the silicone serum and slick it through those waves, they are not going to last that long. You will the shine you want, but your style is going to go flat.
Sacha Q: You are exactly right.
Annie: Well thanks for the tips. I can't wait to try some pin curls. I remember my grandmother doing pin curls.
Sacha Q: My grandmother did it, too, and it worked. They are gorgeous.
Annie: Yeah, well thank you.
Desiree Stordahl: Thank you, Annie. And we will sending you some of our Paula's Choice Shampoo and Conditioner. And so we are almost to the end of our show. We just have a couple minutes left, but Sacha there is a question I have been dying to ask you.
00:55:52 So in all of your years, who has been your favorite celebrity to work with?
Sacha Q: You know what --
Bryan Barron: Oh, we are putting him on the spot.
Sacha Q: I want to do two, I want to do a boy and a girl.
Desiree Stordahl: All right, let's do it.
Sacha Q: Is that okay?
Desiree Stordahl: Yes.
Sacha Q: My favorite female that I have ever worked with, Ms. Catherine Zeta Jones.
Desiree Stordahl: Oh, she is a beauty.
Sacha Q: She is the nicest, most caring, loving, beautiful person when it comes to being around an actress that I have ever experienced. And then boy, it would have to be Josh Brolin. He is a gentleman, a thoughtful human being. He is nice to everyone who is around him.
00:56:31 It is inspiring to be around somebody that caring and cool with everybody. There are no airs. So they would be probably my two favorites.
Bryan Barron: We have just a little bit of time left, but what if we flipped that, Sacha. Who would you just absolutely under no circumstance ever, ever work with again?
Sacha Q: Yeah, that's a great question.
Bryan Barron: Maybe you don't want to answer that one.
Sacha Q: You know what, I'm just going to plead the fifth on that one. There's no way, are you out of your mind?
Desiree Stordahl: Well we don't want you to get in any trouble there.
Bryan Barron: It was worth a try. But suffice it to say, I think if you are given the Hollywood pedigree and experience that you have, I'm sure that there are a few actors and actresses that you could care less if they never sat in your chair again.
Sacha Q: You...I don't know...I don't remember that situation every happening. But, it is possibly true.
00:57:26 There is no question - I'm sure there are people who aren't very nice out there.
Desiree Stordahl: All right, thanks so much Sacha for joining us tonight. Your information was great. We would love to have you back on again.
Sacha Q: Thank you. I appreciate that. I would love to come back.
Bryan Barron: All right. Well good luck with your next project, Sacha. Safe travels back to New York. And have a great holiday season.
Sacha Q: Thank you so much. It was so nice to meet you.
Bryan Barron: You too. Good night.
Desiree Stordahl: All right. So, that was a great show. We have some other awesome shows coming up. On the 22nd, back by popular demand, we have our "How to create your own spa day at home." On the 29th it is "Sexy makeup tips for the New Year's Eve," or just best makeup tips in general for any sort of special occasion.
00:58:13 And then starting January 3rd the show is moving to Tuesdays so it will still --
Bryan Barron: Tuesday-Tuesday.
Desiree Stordahl: Tuesday. Tuesday. Tuesday. It will still be at 6pm Pacific Time, 9pm Eastern, but the show will be on Tuesdays which we are hoping even more of you can tune in then. And our first show of the New Year will be "8 Overnight fixes for your beauty disasters." And on the 10th --
Bryan Barron: That will be a good one.
Desiree Stordahl: Oh yeah. On the 10th we have "Exciting Anti-Aging ingredients you need to know about" and we have all kinds of special guests and great shows planned for 2012.
00:58:44 So tune in. We will be here.
Bryan Barron: All right everyone. Thank you so much for listening. This is "Be Beautifully Informed with Paula Begoun and the Paula's Choice Research Team." I'm Bryan Barron. And here with Desiree Stordahl every week doing our best to keep you beautifully informed. Thank you so much for listening. Enjoy the rest of your evening. Good night.
Desiree Stordahl: Good night.
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