Top 5 Tips for Keeping Oily Skin Under Control

Airdate: 2/28/12

Is your oily skin out of control? We reveal how to combat oily skin and tackle your toughest beauty questions!

Bryan Barron: Good evening. This is Bryan Barron, one of the members of the Paula's Choice Research Team, and you are listening to "Be Beautifully Informed," our weekly radio show. With me on the line tonight is Desiree Stordahl. Hello Desiree.
Desiree Stordahl: Hello, hello.
Bryan Barron: And our fellow team member who is going to be handling the coordination of our phone calls tonight and chiming in as needed, the lovely Daynah Burnett.
00:00:33 Hi Daynah.
Daynah Burnett: Hello, hello.
Bryan Barron: And it is February 29th. Oh, I'm sorry, it is the 28th. I was just looking at the number 29 on the calendar. It is a leap year; we get an extra day this year. And here we are on February 28th at 6pm Pacific Time as usual. Tonight's topic, for those who just tuned in, is the top five tips for keeping oily skin under control.
00:01:01 We invite you to call in with your questions as always. We will do our best to answer them. The number to call in is 347-426-3783. And before we get into the topic, which I promise we will get to momentarily, just a quick follow up from last week's show which covered the topic of how to get your smoothest shave ever.
00:01:26 We asked our intrepid Daynah, who we were joking that she is like Mikey in the Life Cereal commercial - Ask Daynah, she'll do anything! We asked Daynah to experiment with shaving her legs with the grain, because she doesn't normally do that. And she has done that and she is going to share the results.
Daynah Burnett: Well I thought the most scientific approach would be to do one leg against the grain, and one leg with the grain. I thought that would really give me concrete results. And I will tell you that it was unanimous - my husband and I both agree that going against the grain produces a smoother shave.
00:02:09 And I think that that might have to do, I actually thought about this, Bryan - I think that men have the advantage of being able to see their face very clearly in the mirror when they are going with the grain, so you can really see if you have missed hairs. You can really get in there. But with your legs, a lot of it is guess work. You are kind of flying blind.
00:02:31 So it is not as easy to catch hairs that you miss, and you just kind of have to hope that you got them all. And I think that going against the grain is definitely the way to go. So, if anyone ever asks me, that is what I will say.
Bryan Barron: You know, and we did take somewhat of an informal poll around the Paula's Choice office, and shaving against the grain was definitely the winner. And, Daynah, I think you bring up an excellent point. And without question, whether you are male or female, if you are shaving your legs you are certainly covering a much larger surface area than a man just shaving his face.
00:03:06 So there you go, there is the experiment. If you tried it the other way and you had a bad experience and you decided to never take our advice again, please give us another chance. All right, let's get right to the topic - tips for keeping oily skin under control. Oily skin is, perhaps, next to dry skin, is perhaps the most frustrating skin type to deal with.
00:03:30 Because even if you have combination skin where the central part of your face is oily, it is typically not too bad. You know, I mean, you might get a shiny nose and your forehead; you might need to blot a little bit more. But having oily skin all over your face, or even an oily chest and back, and so those areas might be more prone to break out, it is just not fun. And it can result in problems of makeup not lasting as long, products just seem to slide off your face.
00:04:02 You are practically helpless because things get even worse if you have very oily skin and also live in a humid environment or visit a humid climate because, boy, that is going to make the oil that much worse. So we came up with some tips for you - five of our best tips. And some of these you may have heard of. Some you may not. And some that you did hear of, you may have tried some products along the lines of thinking they would help because you believe the claims and it turns out maybe you didn't buy the right products to address that concern.
00:04:39 So Desiree is going to start us off with our first tip.
Desiree Stordahl: This one really can apply for all skin types, but it is especially important for oily skin, and that is to avoid irritating ingredients at all costs. You have heard us probably talk on other shows about why irritating ingredients are bad for various reasons, but when it comes to oil, actually irritating ingredients trigger more oil to be produced directly in the oil gland, which of course is only going to exasperate the problem.
00:05:06 So when you think of ingredients like menthol or mint, eucalyptus, the bad forms of alcohol, lemon - those ingredients may feel like they are helping your skin; sometimes you might even get a tingling effect with them, but truly that is a sign of irritation. And irritation is always bad for skin. So think about, like I remember back in the day when I used to use Sea Breeze, and man I just thought that that made my skin feel great afterwards and that I was going to have oil-free skin.
00:05:33 And really it would only make the problem worse. And I wasn't connecting the dots at the time. But that is a really good example of how irritation is bad for your skin. And so if you are wondering about what types of irritating ingredients to look out for, you can actually go to our Paula's Choice, or actually CosmeticsCop.com ingredient dictionary and look up ingredients that you might have a suspicion about, or if you just want to get a good sense for what is good and bad.
00:06:00 There's lots of great examples there. And Bryan --
Bryan Barron: Go ahead, Desiree.
Desiree Stordahl: Oh, no, go ahead.
Bryan Barron: I was going to say as a general rule, if you are looking at a product and it says something like astringent or bracing, or uses words like refreshing or tingly clean, those are all code words for irritation. Because the ingredients that cause that reaction on the skin - and I know a lot of people when they experience that sensation they think, "Oh wow, it is working; it is doing something."
00:06:33 It is doing something. It is just not doing what you want it to do. It is actually causing more problems. Oily skin can be tricky and it can very quickly become worse - and you are caught up in a vicious cycle if you are not paying very close attention to the kinds of products that you are using. Are we ready to move onto the next one?
Desiree Stordahl: Tip number two.
Bryan Barron: Okay, you want to avoid - and this isn't easy - you want to avoid products that contain pore-clogging or emollient ingredients.
00:07:06 I wish that we could tell you that there was a single solitary list of pore-clogging ingredients that you could just look at, and then when you are shopping avoid those ingredients, and it is as simple as that. But the truth is, it is not as simple as that. A lot of the research that looked at ingredients and said, "This clogged pores, this doesn't clog pores," was not only done on animals, whose skin is not on par with ours in the same degree.
00:07:34 I don't think there are a bunch of bunnies hopping around bemoaning their oily skin, but that is another topic. But more to the point, when these ingredients were tested for their comedogencity or ability to clog pores, they used a pure concentration, 100% of a certain raw ingredient. That isn't how cosmetics are formulated. So while 100% concentration of a thickener, like say Isopropyl Palmitate might have caused breakouts on rabbit skin, it is not going to cause breakouts on a person's skin if you are using a thin-textured, water-based lotion with a tiny amount, say 1% or 2% of Isopropyl Myristate.
00:08:18 There is also the fact that it can sometimes be the blend of ingredients that leads to pore-clogging, not any particular single ingredient. So, let go of the notion of trying to find that elusive list, that definitive list of pore-clogging ingredients. It really doesn't exist. All of us who have oily skin, or who have broken out, have used products that claim to be oil-free but made our skin feel or look greasy, or claimed that they were non-comedogenic, and within a week or two we had clogged pores worse than ever. So, we know from experience that those claims really can't be counted on.
00:08:58 So the best tip we can give you in this regard, if you do need to use a moisturizer or get some sort of hydration, maybe over areas that aren't as oily, or areas that are a bit dry and flaky underneath but oily on top, you want to avoid creams and thick lotions. And consider using only products that have a liquid serum or gel texture. Those are the kinds of products that can give your skin the ingredients that all skin types need to look and feel healthier and also act younger.
00:09:31 But they don't need to be in a base that is going to feel heavy or occlusive or thick. One more quick tip to keep in mind - shopping for products that are oil-free, and we see this claim all the time. Yes, the formula may not contain an oil per se, but it very likely contains oil or wax-like ingredients that have the same, or an even heavier consistency than oil. That is one of the reasons why if you have used a product marketed as oil-free in the past, it still made your skin feel greasy or slick, or it made your makeup slip off after an hour.
00:10:08 Desiree, next one.
Desiree Stordahl: Next up is to use a gentle water-soluble cleanser twice daily. And I have a personal experience where I take my showers at night. So, sometimes the next morning I won't rewash my face. I will just use one of our toners and it makes me feel like, "Oh, it's all clean and good to go." But I do notice that if I don't wash my face in the morning, just because there is already some oil built up from your sleep over night that I tend to look a little bit more greasy throughout the day.
00:10:40 So washing twice, once in the morning and once at night is a really helpful tip for those with oily skin. And also to use an alcohol-free toner loaded with all of those great ingredients like antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients and skin identical ingredients. And toners with these types of ingredients help skin heal, they minimize large pores by reducing inflammation, and they remove the last traces of dead skin cells or makeup that can lead to clog pores, which is all really essential for oily skin.
00:11:11 My personal favorite is our Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Toner. You could also use the toner from the Hydralight line. And you can also look up on Beautypedia good toners. Because good toners are hard to find. A lot of them are loaded with the irritating ingredients, or their formula just adds up to not a whole lot of anything. So, definitely it is a product that you want to check out before you buy.
00:11:37 And in terms of cleansers, I love our Skin Balancing Cleanser. It is great for oily skin, as is our Clear Normalizing Cleanser, and our Hydralight One-Step Face Cleanser.
Bryan Barron: Yes. And Desiree you are absolutely right about toners. Toners have a bad rap among many consumers and among an increasing number of dermatologist precisely because so many of them are a little more than either fragrant water or more often than not those designed for oily skin. And one that comes to mind immediately are the clarifying lotions that Clinique sells as part of their three step skincare routine, especially when you get into the clarifying lotions 3 and 4.
00:12:20 Those are mostly alcohol and witch hazel, along with other known irritating ingredients. It is most likely why Clinique wants you to follow up with that heavier moisturizer right afterwards because those clarifying lotions, except for the mild formula, are so drying. So, next up on the list is a good exfoliant. Now, you typically see in products marketed to oily skin, or to help with oily skin, Neutrogena is probably the prime offender of this, although some of their products in this regard are okay. But, scrubs.
00:12:57 Oily skin seems to be synonymous with scrubs as if the thinking is just like you scrub your floor, if you scrub your face hard enough and often enough you are going to get that oil off. You will. You will get the oil off the surface of the skin, but some of those scrubs can be so abrasive. And, you know, if you don't know any better you have a tendency to use them too aggressively or too often. And what happens is you get an irritant kickback. You are irritating those nerve endings in the skin. Those are linked to the oil glands, so the message that it sends that your skin needs to produce more oil in response to this irritation.
00:13:33 As a quick aside, it isn't true that your skin is oily because it is actually dry. The theory that even oily skin needs a heavier or creamier moisturizer, or it is going to produce too much oil is absolutely not true. And the reason we know this is because somebody who has dry skin needs an emollient moisturizer or their skin isn't producing enough oil.
00:14:00 It isn't about the natural state of your skin, and if you just use this product your skin will somehow regulate how much oil it produces. If only it was that easy for dry skin, but anyone with dry skin will tell you that is absolutely not the case. So, that is definitely a myth that you will hear at some cosmetic counters that you let go of, or just ignore. So what you really want to exfoliate with is a well-formulated BHA product, beta hydroxy acid.
00:14:27 The active ingredient is salicylic acid. What that ingredient does so well - salicylic acid is lipid or oil-soluble. So unlike alpha hydroxy acid, such as glycolic acid, and it isn't those that AHAs don't have a benefit for oily skin - a lot of people with oily skin find that they are helpful and a lot of people with oily skin find that when they alternate between an AHA and a BHA they get even better results. That is why we always encourage you to experiment. It isn't necessary to use both, but if you want to give it a go and see if your skin responds better, absolutely fine.
00:15:05 But, if you are just choosing one, or if you are wondering AHA or BHA, which one do I choose, how do I know - if oily skin is your concern, you want BHA because it can penetrate through that oil. When a BHA exfoliant is properly formulated it can break through that oil and exfoliate inside the pore lining. So, it is not just helping to break up that excess oil on the surface. It is helping to get out the excess oil, dead skin cells, the tiny hairs, all of that stuff that gets trapped in the follicle oil and causes the clogged pore, causes those blackheads and white bumps that you want to get rid of.
00:15:42 If you have very oily skin, twice a day usage is fine. I would recommend going with 2% salicylic acid over 1%. However, if you have never used a BHA exfoliant before. We generally recommend starting with the 1% concentration so that you can see how your skin responds.
00:16:03 If you notice signs of flaking, or any signs of irritation, doesn't necessarily mean that BHA isn't for you and that you need to stop using it. Before you jump to that conclusion, try reducing frequency of application. For example, in my situation, I alternate between AHA and BHA. So one night I will use our Paula's Choice Resist Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% AHA. Then the next night I use one of our Clear Acne Fighting Toners with 2% salicylic acid. That seems to work really well for me.
00:16:38 If I use our 2% beta hydroxy acid liquid, which is among our best-selling products, it is a huge customer favorite - that actually backfires on me and I can't use that every day. So, everyone is different in their response. We always encourage experimentation, but exfoliation is critical, not only for getting oily skin under control, but also for helping to reduce enlarged pores.
Desiree Stordahl: And undoubtedly we have more BHA salicylic acid options than any other line.
Bryan Barron: Oh my gosh, we do.
00:17:12 Yes. If you want to experiment with some other options, we list those in our best products section of Beautypedia. Explore those as well.
Desiree Stordahl: But ours are better.
Bryan Barron: Honestly, yes, they are. I mean, in terms of effectiveness and the anti-irritants. And if it is one thing that Paula's Choice skincare is truly known for, or one thing that really gets people to our line on the recommendation of others is the BHA exfoliants.
Desiree Stordahl: Absolutely. And the fact that there are so many different options between a liquid, a gel, those would be the ones oily-skin people would want to use. But then there is also the lotions for if you are a little bit drier but you want that pore penetration that you can get with salicylic acid. So, it is very nice to have options, whereas with other lines a lot of times you kind of just get it in one size fits all base.
00:18:04 So, are we ready for our list tip?
Bryan Barron: Let's roll.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay, so sometimes even if you do everything else right, you still might have some oily, shiny skin. And in that case you are going to need to absorb excess oil. And we have some great products that can help you out with that. First of all, you could just use a regular pressed powder of any kind. Well, not of any kind. It should be a well-formulated pressed powder that has some absorbency to it.
00:18:31 And just touch it up over your foundation. Our Healthy Finish Pressed Powder with SPF 15 is a nice little added bonus because you are getting sun protection touchup as well as an oily skin touchup. But you could also use oil blotting papers to soak up that excess oil. And also our Shine Stopper Instant Matte Finish with Micro-Sponge Technology works to absorb excess oil. And a lot of people have had to experiment with this, whether they wear it over or under their foundation. It works for everybody individually differently.
00:19:05 So if you give that a try, I would definitely try it both ways, but it can help keep your skin oil-free, not shiny, and it lasts for up to six hours. Actually, at least six hours for a lot of people. It works great as a primer for makeup. And that rounds out our tips. Daynah, are we ready to go to callers?
Daynah Burnett: I think we are ready to go to callers. Are you guys ready to go to callers?
Desiree Stordahl: Let's go.
Daynah Burnett: All right. So we have Teri from New York. She is on the line. Teri, you are on the air.
Teri: Yes I am.
Bryan Barron: Hi Teri.
Teri: Hi, how are you?
Bryan Barron: Good.
00:19:40 What's on your mind tonight?
Teri: Well actually my daughter wanted to call, but she is a little nervous, so I am calling for her, my 17-year old daughter. She has very oily skin. And she wants to know what is the best thing for her to do at school midday when she has very oily skin?
Bryan Barron: You know, can I let you in on a little secret that I know a lot of people around the office here do? You take the sanitary covers that you find in public restrooms and you use those as blotting paper.
Teri: That sounds great.
Bryan Barron: It is simple. It is free. They are in most public restrooms. Now, barring that, or if she just thinks that is incredibly gross or somehow unappealing, and I get that, the best thing to do is a two-pronged approach.
00:20:33 Purchase a small pack of blotting papers, and we will send you our Paula's Choice Oil Blotting Papers. They come in a discrete pocket-sized pouch. Or she can put it in her backpack, the back pocket of her jeans. And then she can just excuse herself when she thinks she is getting a little bit shiny. You just press those blotting papers over the area. And you want to just gently press.
00:20:57 I have seen people using blotting papers and they tend to either really push hard or rub in a back and forth motion. You don't want to use them like a washcloth. You are not scrubbing your face. Because especially if she is wearing a little bit of makeup or something like that, or sunscreen, she is going to wipe it right off. So it is just a gentle blot and dab. She will see the oil transfer from her face to the blotting paper. And then when it starts to get - it will kind of change color because it is a very thin, translucent paper.
00:21:32 Then it is time to discard it. And if she still needs to do a bit more blotting, grab another one. Generally two sheets is sufficient. And then the next step is for her to dust on a light layer of pressed powder.
Teri: Okay, sounds good.
Bryan Barron: And what is her skin tone?
Teri: She is a redhead, but she is not real fair, maybe a little darker than fair. And she just has quite a bit of acne right now. And we are not sure, we are going to the dermatologist and having some testing done.
Bryan Barron: Teri, keep in touch with us about what you find out from the dermatologist and as far as skincare. I would like to help her get setup with some good skincare. But let's see what the dermatologist says first.
Teri: Yeah, I'm also concerned because we were using some beauty products, but I'm not sure if we are using the right thing either.
Bryan Barron: Well definitely, when you have a moment, you and your daughter can sit down together and on Beautypedia.com in our best products section we have a list of the best anti-acne products. So you can look at that together. You can see what the options are.
00:22:47 Acne products are a dangerous road to travel uninformed because by and large a lot of the products are going to make matters worse. And it is so sad because acne is one of the most devastating things to deal with. I mean, it can crush a person's self-esteem. In some cases it can lead to permanent scarring. So, it is not something to take lightly and it is definitely not something to shop blindly.
00:23:18 And you will come across a lot of products that look tempting. Check Beautypedia before you make any decisions. Hopefully that can help you out. I want you to touch base with our customer service department after you talk to the dermatologist, because I think we can set her up with some great products. But to round out what I was going to send her for the shiny skin at school situation, we will send the oil blotting papers.
00:23:43 Let's also send our Paula's Choice Healthy Finish Pressed Powder in the neutral shade. It sounds like that would work well for her. And then I am also going to include our Paula's Choice Retractable Powder Brush. This is a really cool, sleek little brush that winds up, so you get a full-sized powder brush that she can just dust over the pressed powder, lightly dust it over her shine prone areas, retract the brush, put the cap on. It travels beautifully.
Teri: Oh, she will be so happy.
Bryan Barron: Good. Well tell her that we are rooting for her and that Paula's Choice wants to help, so we hope you keep in touch.
Teri: Thank you so much.
Bryan Barron: Thanks Teri.
Teri: Thank you. Bye.
Daynah Burnett: All right. Next on the line we have a call. Desiree, I'm thinking this is the perfect call for you. This is Tammy from Florida. Tammy, you are live on the air.
Tammy: Hi.
Desiree Stordahl: Hi Tammy.
00:25:38 What's your question?
Tammy: Well, I have got combination oily skin, and since my last birthday it just appears that my pores and T-zone are just ridiculously large. And I have tried mattifying products and exfoliating, and I think I am doing a pretty good job with keeping my pores clean.
00:25:05 But through the course of the day you can see every hour more oil is being produced and it is not long before my pores are just really visible, at least to me. I just don't know what else I can do.
Desiree Stordahl: This is a question that we get asked a lot, about what you can do to reduce pore size. And, for the most part, pore size is genetically determined. And when that is the case there might not be a whole lot you can do about it. But like you said, you are keeping the pore clean, so with a good exfoliation, with a BHA product, that helps out a lot. Because when a pore of any size is filled with excess certain oil, it is swelling and stretching.
00:25:48 And, of course, it is going to look more apparent. So, exfoliation is a key, key step. But as far as actually trying to reduce the size of a pore, there are a couple of ingredients that can help out with that. And those would be retinol and niacinamide. And literally, it is not going to make your pore size shrink to where it is invisible, but they can help, they are cell-communicating ingredients, so they can help reduce that pore size and kind of get it back to a more normalized state.
00:26:20 So our Skin Balancing Toner from Paula's Choice has a lot of niacinamide in it, which would be a great suggestion for you, which we will send you. And then also our Resist Retinol Intensive Wrinkle Repair Serum will be a good thing to try as well. You were also mentioning as the day goes on that you notice more and more oil and it is becoming more apparent. So I think it would also be a good idea for you to absorb that excess oil to help out with the appearance of your pores.
00:26:50 So we will send you some of our oil blotting papers to try out, and see how that works for you.
Tammy: Okay. Sounds good.
Bryan Barron: Tammy, could I ask one quick question? You mentioned that the oiliness and the enlarged pores is a relatively new occurrence?
Tammy: It does seem like since my last birthday a few months ago, I am in my 40s now, that I just seem to produce more oil, even in the colder months. And I'm in Florida, but even in the cooler months I am still producing more oil than I remember ever having produced in the past.
Bryan Barron: So what may be behind this change is a hormonal shift, especially if you are at the beginning stages of menopause, or currently going through menopause, what happens during that time - and it can take several years - is that the female hormone estrogen, those levels start declining.
00:27:54 For some women the decline can be more rapid and steep, whereas for others it is a more gradual decline. But hormones tend to be good at balancing themselves out, but then sometimes they can get out of whack. And what can happen when estrogen levels plummet is the male hormone, testosterone, which all females have, but to a much lower degree than males, testosterone starts to rise. And testosterone is the androgen hormone that is chiefly responsible for simulating oil production.
00:28:29 So, as an aside, in addition to the skincare tips Desiree gave you, which were great, it may be a wise idea to consult your physician and have your hormone levels checked.
Tammy: Okay. I didn't even consider that.
Bryan Barron: Yeah. It can be a possibility. And if left unchecked, other signs to look for is if you see an increased rate of facial hair growth where it was never a problem in the past. If you are noticing the hair on your arms or legs is getting darker or more course than it has been in the past. Those can also be signs of rising testosterone as a result of decreased estrogen.
00:29:14 It is a simple blood test to have the levels checked. And there are various medications available that can bring things back into balance. And that coupled with the skincare tips that Desiree mentioned, I think, could really be helpful for you.
Tammy: Okay. Well thank you so much. And thank you, Desiree, too.
Desiree Stordahl: You are welcome. Enjoy the products.
Tammy: Very helpful.
Daynah Burnett: Okay. So next up we have Claudia in Florida.
Bryan Barron: I knew you were going to pick this. I knew it!
Daynah Burnett: I can't help myself. Claudia, you are on the air live.
Claudia: Hi, how are you?
Bryan Barron: Hi Claudia.
00:29:53 You are wondering about sunscreen for oily skin to avoid clogged pores.
Claudia: Right. Do I use something that has more titanium dioxide in it and zinc, or do I use the chemical sunscreen?
Bryan Barron: This is an excellent question. It is a common question for women with oily skin who know about the importance of daily sun protection. A lot of people with oily skin, they tend to give up on sunscreens because they just don't like the feel of them, no matter what the formula says or the product says on the label. They just always feel heavy. Or they make their makeup slide off.
00:30:33 I know, it's an issue. There are some good ones out there. The quick answer for you, Claudia, is to experiment with some various options. What I personally found in working with women with oily skin over the years is that a regular daytime moisturizer with sunscreen that has a super light texture and soft matte finish that uses the "chemical sunscreens" is great followed by a liquid or a powder foundation that uses the mineral sunscreens.
00:31:12 The reason being is that foundations are designed to stay on the surface of skin. They are not designed to absorb into pores. You don't want your makeup to absorb that far into skin because what happens then, you lose your coverage. You lose the benefit of wearing a foundation. One of the chief benefits. So what you can try is say pairing Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Daily Mattifying Lotion with SPF 15. Super lightweight. You have that?
Claudia: I do.
00:31:42 But if I am going to go out, yeah, I do.
Bryan Barron: So if you are going to go out you are looking for something with a higher SPF?
Claudia: Well, yeah. I just turned 51 and so I am starting to see aging on my face now. It looks pretty good, but I am starting to think, "Oh my gosh." So I would only really use that if I was going out in the sun, or I knew I was going to be outside for a long period of time. Now I am using it every day whether I even leave the house or not.
00:32:09 But then when I do go outside, if I am playing tennis or whatever, I'm thinking, "Hmm, I think I need more than that."
Bryan Barron: And you live where?
Claudia: Naples, Florida.
Bryan Barron: Oh, you live in Florida! That's right, it says it right there. Yes, absolutely Claudia. You are right. For the climate that you live in or at the location rather, and that it being a sunny climate most of the time, which I just have to tell you that it is definitely an envy factor at this time of year when it is so cold in the Northwest. It is gray and wet and I just want to go someplace like Naples.
00:32:46 You can absolutely try a lightweight, sheer, mineral-based sunscreen. And one of my favorites that is relatively new, and also relatively inexpensive, is from SkinCeuticals. They have a product called Physical Fusion UV defense SPF 50. It has got only the titanium and the zinc. So it is a great option for longer days outside. It feels light, but it doesn't necessarily leave what I would call a matte finish. You are going to get a bit of a glow from it. So what I would suggest is following up with like a light dusting of a pressed powder with sunscreen, just to help set it and tone down the shine a little bit. You don't want to overdo the powder if you are going to be outside and active.
00:33:35 And, for example, playing tennis you are likely going to be doing some sweating. So don't overdo the makeup. But I think that you will really like the feel and the protection that that SkinCeuticals product mentions. Paula's Choice offers some mineral-based sunscreens as well, but we currently don't have one that I would say is going to feel really great over oily skin.
Claudia: Right.
00:33:59 So it is SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV...
Bryan Barron: SPF 50.
Claudia: SPF 50. Okay. Perfect.
Bryan Barron: Yup. You can purchase it online. Gosh, Daynah, do you know just from updating SkinCeuticals for Beautypedia, do they sell that on SkinStore or DermStore?
Daynah Burnett: I don't know offhand, but I do know that you can just buy it straight from their website. And I think it is like $38, $35. It is very affordable all things considered with that line.
Bryan Barron: Yeah.
00:34:33 And that is the one that I like to use, Claudia, during the 2.5 days we get sun here. Or like last fall, when I was in New Orleans for the week, and it was sunny every single day, I had that on. Not only because of the constant sun, but because I was spending a lot more time than usual outdoors. And I just wanted to put something on that I knew was going to give me a good amount of protection. And I wouldn't have to worry about reapplying it constantly.
Claudia: Right.
00:35:09 And I have one other quick question. I know I am only supposed to do one, but I have been using the BHA 2% liquid because I also have a lot of large pores that I tend to squeeze them and all this white stuff comes out and it is horrible. But, I have been using this and it is getting a little bit better. But I also have Rosacea, so I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't be using it?
Bryan Barron: The 2% BHA liquid?
Claudia: Right. Does that have any affect with Rosacea at all?
Bryan Barron: It tends to have mixed results. For the most part, though, because of how salicylic acid works, it is an natural anti-inflammatory. So, a lot of women with Rosacea find that it actually helps. It helps take down the redness. It helps reduce -
00:35:59 It doesn't necessarily reduce the tendency to have what it is called a flare, a Rosacea flare where the skin gets very red and hot, but it can reduce, and this is from feedback we have gotten over the years, it can reduce the severity of it. So unless you have noticed that since using it your Rosacea seems to be getting worse, then...
Claudia: No, but I switched to the Resist line. I used to use everything from the Skin Balancing line. And I switched to the Resist because I am thinking, oh, I don't know what is worse - my pores or my wrinkles.
00:36:32 So I switched to the Resist. And so I use the toner, and the Super Antioxidant Concentrate and Serum and the Cleanser. I am wondering if they are maybe too hydrating or too greasy or pore clogging and I should go back to the Skin Balancing?
Bryan Barron: You know what you could consider, Claudia, is doing a mix of both, which is absolutely fine.
00:37:00 The Resist line is the separate ant-aging line in terms of people who that is their chief concern, but in truth the Skin Balancing, our Skin Recovery, our Moisture Boost, all of our other products contain those anti-aging ingredients, too. The Resist takes it to the next level in some respects, but it is not as though you are going to be denying your skin some tremendous benefits by using a mix of both.
00:37:30 It is a balancing act between your skin type and your concerns. And the majority - I shouldn't say the majority, but there are several products right now in Resist that are more suited towards somebody whose skin type is normal to dry. And that is not you. We are, just looking ahead, we are working, and we will eventually have a separate collection of Resist for oily skin.
00:37:58 But for now, I absolutely think that you could switch back to the Skin Balancing Cleanser and/or the Skin Balancing Toner. Although keep using that Resist Toner at night. The reasons being is because the Resist Toner has a really nice mix of Barrier Repair fatty acid type ingredients. The latest research on Rosacea is showing that one of the hallmarks of this skin disorder is that not only do women who have Rosacea tend to have a naturally thinner skin, they literally don't have the same number of layers of skin protecting them from external elements which is one of the reasons Rosacea-prone skin can be so reactive.
00:38:45 It is kind of like the difference between protecting, whereas the normal skin might be like a piece of aluminum foil, which you know, you can't see through, it is pretty tough. And then Rosacea skin is more like a piece of saran wrap. It is more permeable, it is just more delicate. Those fatty acids in the Resist Toner can help rebuild that barrier and reduce sensitivity and the inflammatory factors that are at work and contributing to the Rosacea.
00:39:15 So I would hate to see you give that up, but I think that during the day you can absolutely use the Skin Balancing Toner.
Claudia: And then if I use the Resist Toner at night, would I use the Super Antioxidant Serum at night afterward? Or save that for the day?
Bryan Barron: You don't have to use the Antioxidant Concentrate twice a day. It comes down to experimentation. Personally, I have combination skin and I don't like the Antioxidant Concentrate on my face during the day.
Claudia: Yeah, I think it is a little heavy.
Bryan Barron: Well, and I tend to overdo it.
00:39:59 I use it at night, so I tend to just kind of slather it on. And I really don't care how greasy I look because I am just going to bed. But during the day I am more of a minimalist. And I try to pare down the routine a bit.
Claudia: Right. So I use the Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Mattifying Concentrate and Serum?
Bryan Barron: That one can be great during the day because it is super weightless and it is a great...and there is nothing wrong with using both serums.
Claudia: Is it overkill?
Bryan Barron: No. Not at all.
Desiree Stordahl: When it comes to antioxidants, the more you can get the better.
Claudia: Right. Okay.
Bryan Barron: Plus, I also think that the Skin Balancing Antioxidant Concentrate, because of its powder-like finish, it really does a good job of smoothing minor surface irregularities and it can also serve as a foundation primer.
00:40:57 So you don't need to add that separate primer step, and it is going to help your makeup go on better. So it is going to do what a primer does, but you are getting a bunch of other beneficial ingredients, too, which is ultimately what any primer type product should provide.
Claudia: Right. Okay, sounds good.
Bryan Barron: So Tammy, we are going to send you the Skin Balancing Cleanser and Toner so you can give those a try. And be on the lookout for that SkinCeuticals product that you mentioned. And keep in touch with us, let us know how you are doing.
Claudia: Great. Thank you so much.
Bryan Barron: Thanks Tammy.
Daynah Burnett: Next on the line we have got Madison from California. Madison, you are live on the air.
Desiree Stordahl: Hi Madison, what is your question?
Madison: Well, I have really oily skin and every time I wash my face it gets [unintelligible], but then I use the toner and Acne Spot Treatment. And I was wondering if there was a moisturizer I could use to maybe give my skin some, I don't know...
Desiree Stordahl: Some good ingredients?
Madison: Yeah.
Desiree Stordahl: So this was a concept that was hard for me to wrap my head around.
00:42:11 But I have finally gotten over it. I used to think of moisturizers as kind of the only way to implant those really good skin beneficial ingredients into your skin. But it is not true. If you have a well-formulated toner and it includes all of those antioxidants and cell communicating ingredients and skin identical ingredients, you are still getting them, it is just a different form of getting them.
00:42:33 So things like our Skin Balancing Toner, our Hydralight Toner. Different toners throughout our line all work for this same purpose. You don't have to have a moisturizer. That being said, if you still feel like your skin maybe needs a little bit more of a creamy texture, go for something that is not super thick and heavy. If you have oily skin, you want more of like a gel or a gel-cream texture, something that is a little bit more lightweight.
00:42:59 Because as Bryan touched on earlier, those thicker more emollient creams can clog pores, and they are only going to make oily skin more oily. So you could still use something a little bit heavier around the eye area because that area tends to be more dry, but overall if you have oily skin, use a lighter moisturizer. So, in that case, I love our Resist Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator.
00:43:28 It has got that lighter weight texture. It is a gel cream. And along with it you have got - it can fade red marks from breakouts. It repairs multiple signs of aging. It is designed for people to deal with wrinkles and breakouts at the same time which are two really hard skincare issues to deal with. So to be able to kind of knock them out as a two-for-one, is a great, great product. And it just kind of encourages a clear, smooth, even complexion. So you are getting a lot of benefits out of that type of moisturizer for oily skin.
00:44:03 Which of our toners have you tried?
Madison: Clear Acne System with the benzoyl peroxide.
Desiree Stordahl: Okay. So the toner in that line is actually an exfoliant which is great, and I would say keep using that, that is going to help out with your oily skin. But let's also add in the Skin Balancing Toner which is going to load you up with all of those ingredients that we talked about. It has the niacinamide which can help reduce pore size. It has got antioxidants, cell communicating ingredients, everything that you would want in a moisturizer.
00:44:35 And then as an added bonus just to try out and experiment with, we will send you that Resist Anti-aging Clear Skin Hydrator. Does that sound like it answered your problems?
Madison: Yes. Thank you so much.
Desiree Stordahl: No problem. Daynah, next caller?
Daynah Burnett: All right. We have Vicki from Wisconsin. Vicki, you are live on the air.
Vicki: Guys, I appreciate you taking my call.
Bryan Barron: Hey Vicki.
Vicki: I have really oily skin, so like five times a day I am blotting with papers, and I can't explain why this happens, I get super dry flaky skin, even though it is oily, around my chin, my lip, and the creases of my nose and under my eyes.
00:45:18 I don't know if I am using too much BHA. I use the 2% every day. I don't know. You know, I am totally mystified. I have tried - I swear a combination of everything and I can't figure it out.
Bryan Barron: Well, my first thought based on the nature of the flaky patches and the location is it is one of two things. Either you are using a salicylic acid/BHA exfoliant too often, or you are using a strength that is too much for your skin to handle. Or, you may have a condition known as Seborrheic dermatitis which is - that can result - it is a yeast-based condition that can affect people at any stage in life, but it chiefly manifests as persistent, dry, flaky skin, even in the presence of oil, it can show up around the corners of nose, in the eyebrows, along the hair line, sometimes on the chin.
00:46:20 So if you haven't explored that option, I have a favorite product that you can try to see if you get some relief. And it is called Derma Zinc.
Vicki: Derma Zinc. Okay.
Bryan Barron: Yes. And you can purchase it from the website DermaDoctor.com. And it is a cream. It comes in a jar. I know we normally say avoid jar packaging because it hurts...the light and air degradation for the ingredients which is absolutely true. However, this is basically just a bland moisturizer that is lightweight and it is medicated with an ingredient called Zinc Pyrithione.
00:47:04 And that ingredient helps to control the yeast that is believed to be responsible for this flaky skin.
Vicki: Okay. Is that the same stuff as in dandruff shampoo?
Bryan Barron: It is! You beat me to it. That is the active ingredient in several dandruff shampoos such as those from Head & Shoulders. So, another thing that you can try is purchasing a small bottle of dandruff shampoo that contains the Zinc Pyrithione. And you can try washing those areas of your face with the dandruff shampoo.
00:47:40 The advantage of using the Derma Zinc Cream though is that ideally the Zinc Pyrithione, the active, it needs to stay on the skin for awhile to really work. And you don't want to leave a shampoo on your face for several minutes because then you are going to end up with just more problems, even though the zinc might help.
Vicki: Okay.
Bryan Barron: Does that make sense?
Vicki: I will try it.
Bryan Barron: Give it a try. And then touch base with us. And if that doesn't seem to work, then let's take a closer look at your skincare routine.
Vicki: Okay. I appreciate it.
Bryan Barron: And are you using Paula's Choice?
Vicki: I am using Paula's Choice.
00:48:17 I use her Skin Balancing Toner and the BHA. And at nighttime I like the Resist Toner better.
Bryan Barron: Okay. Have you tried the Shine Stopper Instant Matte Finish?
Vicki: I have not. I'm not trusting of that working on me, so I have never really taken the plunge on those kinds of products.
Bryan Barron: All right.
00:48:40 Well how about we send you a tube of that for free.
Vicki: Okay!
Bryan Barron: If it doesn't work for you, you can pass it along to a friend and you are not out any money. So let's send you some of that. And we will also send you some of our oil blotting papers because those we know will work. They are going to blot out that excess oil when you need it.
Vicki: I appreciate it. I'll try the Derma Zinc. I never even thought of that.
Bryan Barron: Try the Derma Zinc. And, Tammy, in terms of the Shine Stopper, take a look at some of our usage instructions on that product page at PaulasChoice.com There are some different ways that you can experiment with applying it. So the first way you try it may not necessarily produce the best results. But keep with it. Try it a few different ways before you really decide if it is going to work for you or not.
00:49:32 We have gotten some great feedback on it, which is why I really want you to try it. And I promise I won't be disappointed if you don't like it. You can even call us back and tell us it was the worst product you ever used.
Vicki: I have never had a bad product with you guys. And I really appreciate it.
Bryan Barron: All right, Tammy, have a good night.
Vicki: Thank you.
Bryan Barron: Do we have time for another call, Daynah?
Daynah Burnett: We do. You are calling everybody who calls in Tammy. It is very amusing.
Desiree Stordahl: That was Vicki.
Bryan Barron: That was Vicki. Oh, you know what it is, because I wrote down Tammy's name earlier and I keep staring at it. It was like in the beginning of the show when I said it was February 29th, because I was looking at 29.
00:50:11 Okay, so next question I answer I am going to keep my eyes closed.
Daynah Burnett: All right. Well this is Steve from Texas. So I am hoping you will know it is not Tammy. Steve, you are live on the air.
Bryan Barron: Vicki, I apologize. Hello, Steve, not Tammy.
Steve: Hello, yes, this is not Tammy. I'm calling because I have oily skin obviously, like everybody else, but I also shave my head. And I have noticed that the skin on my scalp is almost double or triple, more really, than the skin on my face.
00:50:45 And I do tend to break out more on my scalp. And I just don't know, is there a difference between the skin on your scalp versus the skin on my face? I mean it is right next to each other, but it is dramatically different.
Bryan Barron: Yeah, there can be in terms of how many oil glands are on the scalp. Sometimes a person can present with oily hair, but they don't have an oily...their face isn't really what they would consider oily. Maybe around the hairline because of the proximity to the scalp. But, otherwise, but yes -
00:51:19 To answer your question, Steve, yes. The oil glands, they can be larger, they can be more numerous on the scalp. Or for whatever reason, the oil glands connected to the scalp simply are more active. They are literally producing more oil, even though numerically you may not have...the number of glands on the face and scalp may actually be the same. But it can vary.
Desiree Stordahl: So, Bryan, if he doesn't want his scalp to look as oily, should he wash it with his facial cleanser? Should he take a BHA toner to it?
00:51:55 What should he do?
Bryan Barron: You can absolutely wash it with the same product you use to wash your face, or you can use a shampoo on your scalp just as if you would with a full head of hair. You want to make sure that it is not a conditioning shampoo, or one of those two-in-one type formulas, because they can leave a bit of a residue behind. They can mix with the scalp oil and make that shininess worse.
00:52:18 I actually do think Desiree brings up a good point, Steve. You could use our liquid BHA exfoliant at night to see if that helps. And then my other thought, when I first heard your question, is that in the mornings you could try lightly massaging on a layer of cornstarch. Like, for example, Johnson's Baby Powder, like a fragrance-free cornstarch type formula.
00:52:50 Fairly easy to find. Cornstarch is very absorbent. And if you just put a thin layer on, you could shake some out into your hand, rub your hands together, kind of pat that and rub it into the scalp. You should be able to get a nice matte look and not have your head look powdery. So I am not suggesting that you overdo it. And maybe it is something that you want to experiment with on a weekend, like on a Saturday or Sunday when you know you are going to be home for a few hours. You can make sure you like how it works.
00:53:23 I would give that a go. Now, Steve, are you shaving your head because your scalp is oily enough that your hair gets oily, and it is just too much of a problem? Or you just simply like the look?
Steve: I like the look.
Bryan Barron: Okay. Cool.
Daynah Burnett: I have a question, Bryan. I have a question about this. So, Steve, are you using a fragranced shampoo?
Steve: You know, I don't know. I use Cetaphil on my face, their oily skin cleaner, but I honestly don't know what shampoo brand I use. I guess I am bad. I just bought whatever, and I don't know if it is one of those conditioning ones or any of that stuff.
00:54:02 So I will have to check that out.
Daynah Burnett: Well I guess what I am wondering, Bryan, is if the fragrance in his shampoo could be triggering some of the oil production?
Bryan Barron: Possibly, yes. That is a good point. If the shampoo is highly fragranced. Or if it contains fragrant oils. A lot of those marketed to men tend to contain rosemary or peppermint oils. And guys will be like, "Oh yeah, it feels nice and refreshing and cleaning on the scalp, and it does, but it can also be irritating.
00:54:32 So, Steve, we can definitely present a solution to that potential dilemma by sending you a bottle of our All-Over Hair and Body Shampoo. It is really gentle. It is fragrance-free. And you can give that a go. It is absolutely fine to use on your scalp or as a facial wash. You can use it from head to toe, which definitely appeals to a lot of guys who like to keep it simple.
Steve: Okay, great.
Bryan Barron: Cool. All right, Steve, thanks for your call.
Steve: Thank you.
Desiree Stordahl: You know, I had a comment in regard to Vicki who called in earlier, and she was talking about being a little bit afraid to experiment with our Shine Stopper.
00:55:09 And I just wanted to add in a plug for our amazing customer service team. If you ever try a product, and for whatever reason it doesn't work out for you, call our CS team. Not only will they walk you through the steps to find something new that can work for you, but we have a great money-back guarantee policy. And really we are one of the few and far between companies that will really work with you to get you the best products for your skin.
00:55:35 And we will take pretty much anything back. As long as you are being within reason. So I just wanted to mention that to everyone out there listening - don't be afraid to try any of our products. They can be life-changing for you, and we would hate for you to miss out just because you are afraid that you might lose out on some money. That won't be the case with our company.
Bryan Barron: Point well taken. I think we are cutting it a bit too close to take one more call. But Desiree or Daynah, any last words for struggling with oily skin? Any products that you wanted to call out that you haven't mentioned already that you personally found are just amazing?
Desiree Stordahl: My favorites I kind of revealed throughout the show.
00:56:18 The Skin Balancing Toner I just love. Of course I am a big fan of our 2% BHA liquid which is now called the Skin Perfecting 2% BHA liquid. And like I said before, washing your face twice a day. I do love the oil blotting papers and our Healthy Finish Pressed Powder.
Daynah Burnett: Oh, that is one of my favorites, too. And, Bryan, I am a big fan of the Skin Balancing Moisture Gel. I know you like that product.
00:56:45 And during the summers, it is incredible. There is really just nothing like it.
Bryan Barron: Yes. That is one of our products that I like so much I use twice a day, even though I follow with a moisturizer with sunscreen. It is just an amazing product to use after shaving. I also wanted to mention, I thought this question might come up tonight, and I didn't see it on the switchboard, but in terms of liquid foundations for oily skin, or foundations that can hold up to oily skin, we have a few favorites.
00:57:18 You can give the Paula's Choice Best Face Forward Foundation a try if you want something that has more light, sheer-to-light coverage, but a lasting matte finish. Others that we like include Estee Lauder's Double Wear, the original liquid formula, or they have a light version. Both of them have sunscreen. It is only SPF 10, so you will want to either follow with a pressed powder with sunscreen, or put on a matte finish moisturizer with sunscreen first.
00:57:45 The other one that we like that doesn't contain sunscreen is the Teint Idole Enduring Divine Makeup by Lancôme. Oh, and one more. Actually, two more. Revlon's ColorStay formulas, particularly the one for normal to oily skin. And Maybelline's SuperStay24-hour Makeup. All of those makeups are incredibly tenacious. They hold up well over very oily areas. And they provide light to medium, in the case of the Double Wear and the Lancôme foundation, you can get pretty close to full coverage with those. So, if you are struggling to find a great liquid foundation that stays on oily skin, give any of those a go.
00:58:26 You can check out our best foundations with or without sunscreen on Beautypedia. And let's go over the upcoming shows. Next week we are going to be talking about how to fix your worst hair disaster with our favorite hair expert James Todd. He is going to be joining the show again. He always has some great tips. On March 13, Splurge Vs. Steal. We are going to show you how to find identical department store cosmetics and skincare at the drugstore.
00:58:56 We have got some great picks lined up. You don't want to miss that. On March 20th we are hoping to have Paula join us for this show. I know she was excited about the topic. It is one we have not talked about before. We are going to be talking about sagging skin from weight loss, what works and what is just hype. What are your options after you lose quite a bit of weight, whether it is post-pregnancy or you have just finally gone on that healthy eating plan, or diet, that has just really worked for you.
00:59:28 What do you do when the pounds come off but the skin is still hanging around where you don't want it to be, and it is just too loose. So, tune in for that on March 20th. It should be an enlightening show. We invite you to join us every Tuesday night at 6pm Pacific Time. You can listen to our podcasts at PaulasChoice.com. Come visit us soon, and we will talk with you next week. Good night.
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