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ascorbic acid

Rating:
Best
Categories:
Vitamins , Antioxidants

Ascorbic acid—also known as L-ascorbic acid—has the most research of any form of vitamin C when it comes to benefits for skin. It is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent that can improve the appearance of wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and brown spots. [1-3] 

Ascorbic acid is also a powerhouse when mixed with other antioxidants, or when used alone in higher concentrations, such as 15% or 20% or greater, amounts that can be great for treating extra-stubborn dark spots, red marks or wrinkles. [4,5]

A particularly vulnerable antioxidant when exposed to UV light and air, ascorbic acid must be packaged to protect it from these elements during routine use, or its effectiveness will gradually become diminished to the point of not working at all (you will see this as oxidized discoloration, meaning the product turns a copper to brownish color). [6] For this reason, avoid any vitamin C (ascorbic acid) products packaged in jars.

References Cited:

  1. Pinnell S, Yang H, Omar M, Monteiro-Riviere N, DeBuys H, Walker L, Wang Y, Levine M. Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol Surg. 2001;27(2):137-42.
  2. Telang P. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146.
  3. Farris P. Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt. 2):814-7; Discussion 818.
  4. Murray J. A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008;59(3):418-25.
  5. Xu T. Split-face study of topical 23.8% L-ascorbic acid serum in treating photo-aged skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012;11(1):51-6.
  6. Iqbaul A, Sheraz M, Ahmed, S et. al. Photostability and Interaction of Ascorbic Acid in Cream Formulations. AAPS PharmSciTech. 2011 Sep; 12(3): 917–923.

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Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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