dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline at a Glance

  • An oil-soluble derivative of hydroxyproline
  • Hydroxyproline is the primary amino acid in skin’s collagen
  • Helps preserve skin’s supportive elements
  • The palmitoyl portion comes from hydrating palmitic acid

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Description

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is an oil-soluble version of hydroxyproline, which is the primary amino acid in collagen. Making it oil-soluble improves penetration into skin and lips, where it works to signal skin from the uppermost layers to repair its supportive elements, leading to fewer visible lines and wrinkles. In essence, hydroxyproline is considered a signal peptide.

This ingredient works best when paired with oils or glycols since both increase its affinity for skin. Along with supporting skin’s collagen, it also offsets collagen-degrading enzymes known as matrix metalloproteinases. When these enzymes proliferate unchecked, collagen is weakened, leading to signs of sagging and thinning lips.

The recommended usage level of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is 0.1–2%; clinical studies from suppliers have shown measurable improvement of wrinkle depth when used at 0.5%.

Palmitic acid is considered safe for skin, as are proline and hydroxyproline since the latter two are found naturally in skin and its collagen.

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline References

International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 36, Supplement 3, November-December 2017, pages 51S–129S
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2013, pages 156–162
The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, March 2009, pages 38–43

See amino acids proline palmitic acid peptides

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books about skincare and makeup. She is known worldwide as The Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula’s Choice Skincare. Paula’s expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international radio, print, and television including:

The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to busting beauty myths and providing expert advice that solves your skincare frustrations so you can have the best skin of your life!